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<p>Did this a couple years ago.� You'll need to pull the radiator,
detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the
engine mounts (at the bottom).�� Don't lift at the pan unless
you're able to spread the load considerably.<br>
</p>
<p>It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts.� My engine rebuilder
just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is
open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
sealant on it.� Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to
use some sort of sealant on the gasket.</p>
<p>The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should
have been torqued to 150lb-ft.� You have to lift the engine enough
for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the
crossmember.� I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the
socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.<br>
</p>
<p>Bob<br>
</p>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:DEB6D5DB62E8482C8D7E1A6C2329DC41@CharliePC"
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<div><font size="4">I have to replace the timing chain cover
gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how
much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high
enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.</font></div>
<div>�</div>
<div><font size="4">Regards,</font></div>
<div>�</div>
<div><font size="4">Charlie </font></div>
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<div>�</div>
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FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal;
COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline"><span
style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial
Black","sans-serif""><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt;
FONT-FAMILY: "Arial
Black","sans-serif""><o:p></o:p></span>�</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
FONT-FAMILY:
"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Healeys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On
Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p>�</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I�d saved
something relating to damping the fluctuations in my
fuel gauge. I don�t recall if it was originally posted
here or if I trawled it off the net. I�d made a few
notes and filed it appropriately against some day in
the future when I might get round to actually doing
it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So, my nephew�s
fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this
prompted me to dig out the article/notes.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">First off, I agree
that there�s no sense in putting the capacitor
anywhere near the fuel tank.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Having said that,
I read the advice that I�d stored so carefully and
began to wonder if I�d understood it correctly. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Is the capacitor
really supposed to be wired across the two terminals
on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it
crudely, but in the language that I can understand,
wouldn�t the fluctuations still come down the
Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the
gauge�s terminal T? And wouldn�t those fluctuations
still register as such on the gauge, totally
unaffected by the capacitor? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Shouldn�t the
capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the
fluctuations cannot bypass it?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Maybe I�m over
complicating things and should just try it without
understanding it. Maybe I think too much.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p>
</p>
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