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    <p>Did this a couple years ago.� You'll need to pull the radiator,
      detach the throttle shaft and the OD tie rod, and unbolt the
      engine mounts (at the bottom).�� Don't lift at the pan unless
      you're able to spread the load considerably.<br>
    </p>
    <p>It's hard to get a good seal; you need to center the seal on the
      crankshaft before tightening the cover bolts.� My engine rebuilder
      just pointed out to me that the bolt at about the 5:30 position is
      open to the crankcase; you'll want to use some sort of thread
      sealant on it.� Unless your cover is perfectly flat you'll want to
      use some sort of sealant on the gasket.</p>
    <p>The nut on the crankshaft is a bitch to get off; IIRC it should
      have been torqued to 150lb-ft.� You have to lift the engine enough
      for this nut, and whatever tool you use to free it, to clear the
      crossmember.� I used a 3/4" impact wrench, and couldn't get the
      socket on straight and ended up mangling the nut pretty bad.<br>
    </p>
    <p>Bob<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/10/2017 2:30 PM, Charlie Schott
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:DEB6D5DB62E8482C8D7E1A6C2329DC41@CharliePC"
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          <div><font size="4">I have to replace the timing chain cover
              gasket on a 1967 BJ8. Would someone please tell me how
              much I have to remove from the engine to raise it high
              enough to remove the crankshaft pulley. Thanks.</font></div>
          <div>�</div>
          <div><font size="4">Regards,</font></div>
          <div>�</div>
          <div><font size="4">Charlie </font></div>
          <div style="FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none;
            FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal;
            COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline">
            <div style="FONT: 10pt tahoma">
              <div>�</div>
              <div style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
                <div style="FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none;
                  FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal;
                  COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline"><span
                    style="FONT-FAMILY: "Arial
                    Black","sans-serif""><o:p></o:p></span></div>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div class="WordSection1">
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt;
                  FONT-FAMILY: "Arial
                  Black","sans-serif""><o:p></o:p></span>�</p>
              <div>
                <div style="BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT:
                  medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none;
                  PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; PADDING-LEFT:
                  0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in">
                  <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
                        FONT-FAMILY:
                        "Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span
                      style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:
                      "Tahoma","sans-serif"">
                      Healeys [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On
                        Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan<br>
                      <b>Sent:</b> Friday, February 10, 2017 12:47 PM<br>
                      <b>To:</b> 'Healey List'<br>
                      <b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Fuel Gauge dampener<o:p></o:p></span></p>
                </div>
              </div>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p>�</p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Hi,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I�d saved
                  something relating to damping the fluctuations in my
                  fuel gauge. I don�t recall if it was originally posted
                  here or if I trawled it off the net. I�d made a few
                  notes and filed it appropriately against some day in
                  the future when I might get round to actually doing
                  it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So, my nephew�s
                  fuel gauge bounces around far more than mine and this
                  prompted me to dig out the article/notes.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">First off, I agree
                  that there�s no sense in putting the capacitor
                  anywhere near the fuel tank.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Having said that,
                  I read the advice that I�d stored so carefully and
                  began to wonder if I�d understood it correctly. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Is the capacitor
                  really supposed to be wired across the two terminals
                  on the gauge? Would it have any effect? To put it
                  crudely, but in the language that I can understand,
                  wouldn�t the fluctuations still come down the
                  Green/Black wire from the sender unit and hit the
                  gauge�s terminal T? And wouldn�t those fluctuations
                  still register as such on the gauge, totally
                  unaffected by the capacitor? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Shouldn�t the
                  capacitor be wired in such a fashion that the
                  fluctuations cannot bypass it?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Maybe I�m over
                  complicating things and should just try it without
                  understanding it. Maybe I think too much.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
            </div>
            <p>
            </p>
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