<html><head></head><body><p dir="auto" style=" text-align: left; margin-top: 25px; margin-bottom: 25px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; background-color: white ">Yes Neil, David is referring to the pump non return valve however if you are able to confirm that you have 390 p.s.i. in the overdrive that valve is not in need of checking. <br>
Michael S <br>
BN1 #174</p>
<p dir="auto" style=" text-align: left; margin-top: 25px; margin-bottom: 25px; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; color: black; background-color: white ">Correct diagnosis is half of the repair.<br>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 9:02 PM -0500, "Neil McDonald" <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:nmcd10@gmail.com" target="_blank">nmcd10@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><div>By referencing the check valve on the side of the pump, David Nock has taken me into new and uncharted territory! </div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">I assume this valve is totally different from the ball lifted by the OD actuating lever? The mystery deepens with the reference to multiple balls and the need to ensure that they are in the right way.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><br></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">More help on this please.</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">_____________________<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.294118);">Neil McDonald</span></div><div><div><div><br></div><div>Email: <a href="mailto:nmcd10@gmail.com">nmcd10@gmail.com</a></div><div><br></div></div></div></div><div><br>On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:31, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <<a href="mailto:YNOTINK@msn.com">YNOTINK@msn.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<p>If the OD engages when cold, but disengages when it warms up your problem could be with leakage through the o-rings that seal the accumulator body to the housing. It's an easy fix, but removing the accumulator body is somewhat of a trick. I was advised to
remove the side plate and the accumulator springs, place a dowel in the center of the accumulator piston to keep it from moving and apply air pressure through the actuator valve hole (after removing the valve and ball). The accumulator body is the large sleeve
in which the accumulator piston resides.</p>
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<p>Bill Lawrence</p>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, January 2, 2017 9:11:48 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] BN6 Overdrive</font>
<div> </div>
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<div class="PlainText">The OD and gearbox share fluid supply. Take the car out for a run to
<br>
get the fluid warmed-up, then get it up on a rack--preferably--or SAFELY <br>
on jackstands, as high as they'll go. There is a dipstick on top of the <br>
gearbox; check your fluid level before emptying--if it's low that could <br>
be at least part of your problem. There is a drain plug on the bottom <br>
left side of the gearbox, and a big brass disk on the OD. Older cars <br>
had a sensible square 'nut' on the OD plug, which can be turned with a <br>
big crescent wrench, and newer ones have a notched disk that requires a <br>
tool to be undone properly, but you can use a brass punch and hammer or <br>
other method. When you drop the brass plug, there should be a <br>
cup-shaped screen and, possibly, a couple of soft, circular magnets.<br>
<br>
Let the fluid drain completely, then re-install the gearbox and OD <br>
plugs, being sure to a) place the magnets inside the plug and b) place <br>
the screen on top of the magnets. It's difficult to stop leakage from <br>
the OD plug; use a new fiber washer and, possibly, some teflon tape on <br>
the threads of the plug (being careful to not get any inside the OD). <br>
Top off with the fluid of your choice--'book' is 30W non-detergent, but <br>
most motor (20W-50) and synthetic gearbox oils work well--checking the <br>
level often with the dipstick. Should take about 3.75 quarts.<br>
<br>
Don't know how you 'persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine,' <br>
but my money's on the electrics--esp. the relay.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 1/2/2017 10:56 AM, Neil McDonald wrote:<br>
> One of my New Years resolutions, before I put the car back on the road after sitting in the garage for several years, is to fix the overdrive so the car is comfortable highway driving. It once (and once only) went into OD once very briefly - which suggests
that nothing mechanical is broken.<br>
><br>
> So far I have persuaded myself that the OD electrics are fine and there is adequate hydraulic pressure - around 390 psi if I recall correctly. I have also checked the hydraulic valve adjustment using the "drill through the actuating lever" method but not
the direct "is the valve ball lifting by at least 1/32 inch when the solenoid is actuated?" method.<br>
><br>
> Somewhere I read that there is a small passage around the hydraulic valve area which can get blocked and thus needs cleaning out with a wire. Is there an internet link elaborating on this?<br>
><br>
> Online research also suggests that I should change out the OD fluid which is certainly old and a significant amount could have leaked out. I assume that the gear box has a drain and filler plug but have yet to find them. Should I refill to just short of overflowing
or ......?<br>
><br>
> I don't have the resources to pull and strip the OD myself so am hoping that I can get it working without hiring a professional. Does anyone have any words of wisdom and/or comfort?<br>
> _____________________<br>
> Neil McDonald<br>
><br>
> Email: <a href="mailto:nmcd10@gmail.com">nmcd10@gmail.com</a><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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