<div dir="ltr"><pre>Jim: To be more accurate it now called a capacitor.<br></pre><pre> It is identified by two values; how much it can hold <br></pre><pre> (Usually in micro-farads) and second the voltage it<br></pre><pre> can withstand in volts.<br></pre><pre>If the voltage rating is not correct then it will fail. It will<br></pre><pre>also fail if it has sat around unused for any period time. <br></pre><pre>Had this happen to me with a video camera. After replacing all caps it<br></pre><pre>worked fine.<br></pre><pre>Having the wrong capacity (micro-farads) causes it to fail the<br></pre><pre>first time it is charged so it might work for a short period <br></pre><pre>time.<br></pre><pre>Having the voltage will certainly cause it to fail -- the question <br></pre><pre>is how soon!<br></pre><pre>..................... Al</pre></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Dec 29, 2016 at 11:00 AM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:healeys-request@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-request@autox.team.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to<br>
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."<br>
<br>
<br>
Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Re: Mount a coil on an alternator. (Al Fuller)<br>
2. Re: Starting a BJ8 (Perry)<br>
3. coilt induction ingition (Ed O'Neal)<br>
4. Help! (Steering Box) (Bob Spidell)<br>
5. Re: Cam wear question (rrengineer.mike)<br>
6. Re: coilt induction ingition (Bob Spidell)<br>
7. Re: coilt induction ingition (Austin Healeys List)<br>
8. Photo Story - Fixing Dip Switch<br>
(=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=<wbr>20Gerow?=)<br>
9. Re: Photo Story - Fixing Dip Switch (Michael MacLean)<br>
10. condensor (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)<br>
11. Re: coilt induction ingition (Oudesluys)<br>
12. Re: Help! (Steering Box) (Per Schoerner)<br>
13. Re: Help! (Steering Box) (Michael Salter)<br>
14. Exhaust Manifold Refinish (Robert F. Begani)<br>
15. Re: FW: Mount a coil on an alternator. (Robert F. Begani)<br>
16. Re: Exhaust Manifold Refinish (Austin Healeys List)<br>
17. Re: Exhaust Manifold Refinish (i erbs)<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<wbr>------------------------------<wbr>----------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 14:39:32 -0500<br>
From: "Al Fuller" <<a href="mailto:al@bighealey.org">al@bighealey.org</a>><br>
To: "'Healeys, Forum'" <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
Message-ID: <01d001d26142$1df7ca80$<wbr>59e75f80$@<a href="http://bighealey.org" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">bighealey.org</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Josef:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Petty broad brush you are painting some of us with there? [Quote: ?People who swap a generator for an alternator like to modify in any way.?] Without further comment to your over-statement, I WILL say the following:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I drive my car on multi-day cross-country trips and see the value in installing a modern alternator. The generators on our cars were installed 50 years ago, and designed way before that to provide a fairly modest output [~20 amps, if memory serves]. The generator was barely able to supply the car?s needs as supplied, and modern use calls for additional and more power-hungry apliances in the car, such as headlights that actually light up the road ahead?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I now have an alternator that will power the car, headlghts, the CB radio I consider a necessity when driving in a multi car caravan, etc. An added bonus is if it happens to fail, rebuild or repar are readily available. Note that none of this drives me necessiarily to any other modifications.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Al Fuller<br>
<br>
al at bighealey dot org<br>
<br>
'65 BJ-8<br>
<br>
'85 Rx-7<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] On Behalf Of <a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">josef-eckert@t-online.de</a><br>
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 4:07 PM<br>
To: Simon Lachlan <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>><wbr>; Healeys, Forum <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
People who swap a generator for an alternator like to modify in any way. Anybody who knows more about electrics know there is no need for an alternator at all on Healeys. its only to adjust the rehulator to work as it should. But that?s to difficult for most I suspect.<br>
<br>
those selling these alternators are quite happy to sell them as people like to modify and they also sell you one of these performance coils and they need to be kept cool and best is to put the coil in the boot to keep it cool. Haven?t seen that so far but can?t await to see it.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Josef Eckert<br>
<br>
Konigswinter/Germany<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
<br>
Betreff: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
<br>
Datum: 2016-12-23T21:57:44+0100<br>
<br>
Von: "Simon Lachlan" <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@<wbr>homecall.co.uk</a>> ><br>
<br>
An: "'Healey Group'" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><wbr>> ><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I?ve had an alternator in my BT7 for a while now.<br>
<br>
So, when I was doing the job, I looked at pictures of other people?s installations. Nobody?s coil was mounted on the alternator as coils were/are mounted on the generators.<br>
<br>
I didn?t mount mine on the alternator either.<br>
<br>
Now, I?m wondering why everybody found ingenious places to put the coils and nobody ingeniously adapted their brackets to fit onto their alternator.<br>
<br>
Do alternators get too hot? Do they give off some kind of magic death ray that fries coils or what??<br>
<br>
Any reasons not to do it??<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
?<br>
<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 11:45:46 -1000<br>
From: Perry <<a href="mailto:healeyguy@aol.com">healeyguy@aol.com</a>><br>
To: John Rowe <<a href="mailto:john@jtkarowe.com.au">john@jtkarowe.com.au</a>><br>
Cc: Healey List <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starting a BJ8<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:9E2D0B1C-FFEE-45EC-90CF-ED56A9EC680C@aol.com">9E2D0B1C-FFEE-45EC-90CF-<wbr>ED56A9EC680C@aol.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
When I was a lad of 8 years old my elder brother, then 16, painted a late 40's Mercury with an Electrolux vacuum cleaner painting<br>
attachment. I was not a contisour of fine quality paint jobs at the time but recall that the new white paint looked a lot better than the primer patchwork!<br>
Perry<br>
<br>
Now, if I could just figure out what an 'old vacuum cleaner spray gun' is I can die<br>
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Message: 3<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 21:56:49 +0000<br>
From: Ed O'Neal <<a href="mailto:Ed@wadsworthoneal.com">Ed@wadsworthoneal.com</a>><br>
To: "'Healeys, Forum'" <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: [Healeys] coilt induction ingition<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<wbr>5DF89A96AFE9744A854AC9AD65E693<wbr>CC706EFD69@mbx027-w1-ca-4.<wbr>exch027.domain.local><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Gents,<br>
<br>
By way of recap: When the points close current flows through the primary (12 volt) side of the coil. When they open the magnetic field around the coil collapses across the secondary coil windings (high voltage) driving a high voltage current across the plug gap and firing the cylinder. At the same time the magnetic field also across the primary windings attempting to drive a current across the open points and creating a relatively high voltage (perhaps 400 volts) which will want to arc across the open points and wearing them out quickly. To mitigate this a condenser (capacitor) is places between the points coil connection and ground which absorbs the ?shock? of the current being driven towards the open points and reducing the potential for arcing across the points allowing them to last longer.<br>
<br>
Question: Why would a larger condenser (capacitor) not reduce the potential for arcing across the points even more? What might be the down side of such an attempt???<br>
<br>
Thanks for your expertise in advance.<br>
<br>
Ed<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Al Fuller<br>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2016 2:40 PM<br>
To: 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
<br>
Josef:<br>
<br>
Petty broad brush you are painting some of us with there? [Quote: ?People who swap a generator for an alternator like to modify in any way.?] Without further comment to your over-statement, I WILL say the following:<br>
<br>
I drive my car on multi-day cross-country trips and see the value in installing a modern alternator. The generators on our cars were installed 50 years ago, and designed way before that to provide a fairly modest output [~20 amps, if memory serves]. The generator was barely able to supply the car?s needs as supplied, and modern use calls for additional and more power-hungry apliances in the car, such as headlights that actually light up the road ahead?<br>
<br>
I now have an alternator that will power the car, headlghts, the CB radio I consider a necessity when driving in a multi car caravan, etc. An added bonus is if it happens to fail, rebuild or repar are readily available. Note that none of this drives me necessiarily to any other modifications.<br>
<br>
<br>
Al Fuller<br>
al at bighealey dot org<br>
'65 BJ-8<br>
'85 Rx-7<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] On Behalf Of <a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">josef-eckert@t-online.de</a><<wbr>mailto:<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">josef-eckert@t-online.<wbr>de</a>><br>
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2016 4:07 PM<br>
To: Simon Lachlan <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a><<wbr>mailto:<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.<wbr>co.uk</a>>>; Healeys, Forum <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><<wbr>mailto:<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><wbr>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
<br>
<br>
People who swap a generator for an alternator like to modify in any way. Anybody who knows more about electrics know there is no need for an alternator at all on Healeys. its only to adjust the rehulator to work as it should. But that?s to difficult for most I suspect.<br>
<br>
those selling these alternators are quite happy to sell them as people like to modify and they also sell you one of these performance coils and they need to be kept cool and best is to put the coil in the boot to keep it cool. Haven?t seen that so far but can?t await to see it.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Josef Eckert<br>
<br>
Konigswinter/Germany<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
<br>
Betreff: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
<br>
Datum: 2016-12-23T21:57:44+0100<br>
<br>
Von: "Simon Lachlan" <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a><<wbr>mailto:<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.<wbr>co.uk</a>>><br>
<br>
An: "'Healey Group'" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><<wbr>mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><wbr>><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I?ve had an alternator in my BT7 for a while now.<br>
So, when I was doing the job, I looked at pictures of other people?s installations. Nobody?s coil was mounted on the alternator as coils were/are mounted on the generators.<br>
I didn?t mount mine on the alternator either.<br>
Now, I?m wondering why everybody found ingenious places to put the coils and nobody ingeniously adapted their brackets to fit onto their alternator.<br>
Do alternators get too hot? Do they give off some kind of magic death ray that fries coils or what??<br>
Any reasons not to do it??<br>
Thanks,<br>
Simon<br>
?<br>
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<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 14:22:26 -0800<br>
From: Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
To: Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Help! (Steering Box)<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:10cd5101-35da-768d-43e3-198bffbda1ec@comcast.net">10cd5101-35da-768d-43e3-<wbr>198bffbda1ec@comcast.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed<br>
<br>
Listers,<br>
<br>
Looks like I've goofed somehow. I was finishing installing my new<br>
Lempert steering wheel on my BN2 and had a problem getting the stator<br>
tube back down through the steering box (I think it was catching at the<br>
'stud' on the end plate that the olive gets bolted-up to). Anyway,<br>
after no success finagling the tube through the hole I made the idiotic<br>
move of pulling the end plate off the steering box. I've done this<br>
before to apply some sealant to the plate and shims to stop leaking, but<br>
this time the lower bearings and their race fell out. No amount of<br>
sworking can get the bearings and race back into the box far enough that<br>
the plate can be pulled fully down, even with a 1/32" or so of shim<br>
packing; if I pull the bolts down the steering locks up. I've studied<br>
the shop (Moss) diagram, and there are matching bearings and race at the<br>
upper and lower ends of the box; thinking the upper might have slipped<br>
out of place I pulled the top cover off the box, but I don't see<br>
anything loose or out of place. No matter how carefully I try to pull<br>
the bolts down on the end plate I'm having no luck getting the lower<br>
bearing and race into the box. Anybody have any ideas? Been stuck in<br>
this predicament before? I've tried moving the wheel from lock-to-lock<br>
and centered and everywhere in between, but it seems as if the steering<br>
shaft has moved down a 1/16" or more, making it impossible to get the<br>
bearing and cup back in sufficiently far. Oh, and I did all the<br>
tightening and adjusting of the steering wheel before I pulled the cover<br>
off the box so I don't think the installation of the wheel had anything<br>
to do with this.<br>
<br>
Who can bail me out of this predicament? If I don't get this resolved,<br>
my beautiful new steering wheel will be a static display only :(<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 15:10:15 -0800<br>
From: "rrengineer.mike" <<a href="mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net">rrengineer.mike@att.net</a>><br>
To: Kent McLean <<a href="mailto:kentmclean@comcast.net">kentmclean@comcast.net</a>>, <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam wear question<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:hqtdny9y82ptyy8q1s6sojh7.1482966615683@email.android.com">hqtdny9y82ptyy8q1s6sojh7.<wbr>1482966615683@email.android.<wbr>com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Beautiful installation. ?Wouldn't it be easier to put a nice little V8 in there? ?I mean if you don't want the Healey British Car experience there are easier ways to go. ?Heck, why don't you just go buy a new Miata if you don't want the challenge and satisfaction of making 70 year old technology work in today's ultra complicated world of automobile technology. ?I have enough computers in my life. I don't see me putting one in my British Car though. ?That being said, it is a clean well thought out installation of fuel injection. Just my opinion for what it is worth. (not much)Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone<br>
<br>
-------- Original message --------<br>
From: Kent McLean <<a href="mailto:kentmclean@comcast.net">kentmclean@comcast.net</a>><br>
Date: 12/28/16 6:32 AM (GMT-08:00)<br>
To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cam wear question<br>
<br>
Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
> Can't do much about the ol' SUs washing oil off the bores, though.<br>
<br>
Not for the purists, but there are EFI options out there. MegaSquirt is probably one of the earliest and most well known.<br>
<br>
<a href="http://megasquirt.info" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://megasquirt.info</a><br>
<br>
Video of Steve Thomton?s install:<br>
<a href="http://stevesaustinhealey.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://stevesaustinhealey.com</a><br>
<br>
-<br>
Kent McLean<br>
?56 100 BN2<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 16:27:11 -0800<br>
From: Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] coilt induction ingition<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:2b2c004f-d8f2-3854-bffa-65018b67f22a@comcast.net">2b2c004f-d8f2-3854-bffa-<wbr>65018b67f22a@comcast.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Your recap is correct, AFAIK, but the condenser is also part of a timing<br>
circuit created when current flows through a resistance and into the<br>
capacitor (RC circuit). I don't know the exact theory, but changing the<br>
value of the cap would likely upset the timing of the spark firing event.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 12/28/2016 1:56 PM, Ed O'Neal wrote:<br>
><br>
> Gents,<br>
><br>
> By way of recap: When the points close current flows through the<br>
> primary (12 volt) side of the coil. When they open the magnetic field<br>
> around the coil collapses across the secondary coil windings (high<br>
> voltage) driving a high voltage current across the plug gap and firing<br>
> the cylinder. At the same time the magnetic field also across the<br>
> primary windings attempting to drive a current across the open points<br>
> and creating a relatively high voltage (perhaps 400 volts) which will<br>
> want to arc across the open points and wearing them out quickly. To<br>
> mitigate this a condenser (capacitor) is places between the points<br>
> coil connection and ground which absorbs the ?shock? of the current<br>
> being driven towards the open points and reducing the potential for<br>
> arcing across the points allowing them to last longer.<br>
><br>
> Question: Why would a larger condenser (capacitor) not reduce the<br>
> potential for arcing across the points even more? What might be the<br>
> down side of such an attempt???<br>
><br>
> Thanks for your expertise in advance.<br>
><br>
> Ed<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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Message: 7<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 14:02:06 +1300<br>
From: Austin Healeys List <<a href="mailto:austinhealeyslist@gmail.com">austinhealeyslist@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: "Ed O'Neal" <<a href="mailto:Ed@wadsworthoneal.com">Ed@wadsworthoneal.com</a>><br>
Cc: "Healeys, Forum" <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] coilt induction ingition<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:CAGHuNqC9GUjUJ1ibtZbss6r%2BC2t3Wzx15MoX-ynEJadsHxYmDw@mail.gmail.com">CAGHuNqC9GUjUJ1ibtZbss6r+<wbr>C2t3Wzx15MoX-ynEJadsHxYmDw@<wbr>mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8<br>
<br>
A capacitor is effectively a dead-short the very instant power is<br>
applied to it. When the points open, flyback voltage from the coil<br>
appears across the capacitor but since it is effectively a dead short<br>
for a few nano seconds, the voltage across the points gap is very<br>
close to zero and no arcing can occur because all the current is<br>
rushing into the capacitor instead of trying to form an arc. A few<br>
more microseconds later the points are far enough apart to prevent any<br>
arc jumping the gap and all is well.<br>
<br>
When the points close again, the fully charged capacitor gets<br>
dead-shorted and if it were significantly bigger, this would cause a<br>
big enough spark to erode the points in the opposite direction. You<br>
can look at a well used set of points and determine whether the<br>
capacitor is the correct size by whether metal has migrated from one<br>
contact to the other, or vise versa. Unfortunately I can't remember<br>
which direction corresponds to too big or small. The size of the<br>
capacitor is a compromise between creating the smallest possible arc<br>
when the points open vs when they close. At least that's what I was<br>
taught at tech school.<br>
<br>
Andy.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 12/29/16, Ed O'Neal <<a href="mailto:Ed@wadsworthoneal.com">Ed@wadsworthoneal.com</a>> wrote:<br>
> Gents,<br>
><br>
> By way of recap: When the points close current flows through the primary<br>
> (12 volt) side of the coil. When they open the magnetic field around the<br>
> coil collapses across the secondary coil windings (high voltage) driving a<br>
> high voltage current across the plug gap and firing the cylinder. At the<br>
> same time the magnetic field also across the primary windings attempting to<br>
> drive a current across the open points and creating a relatively high<br>
> voltage (perhaps 400 volts) which will want to arc across the open points<br>
> and wearing them out quickly. To mitigate this a condenser (capacitor) is<br>
> places between the points coil connection and ground which absorbs the<br>
> ?shock? of the current being driven towards the open points and reducing the<br>
> potential for arcing across the points allowing them to last longer.<br>
><br>
> Question: Why would a larger condenser (capacitor) not reduce the potential<br>
> for arcing across the points even more? What might be the down side of such<br>
> an attempt???<br>
><br>
> Thanks for your expertise in advance.<br>
><br>
> Ed<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 17:53:37 -0800<br>
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=<wbr>20Gerow?=" <<a href="mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com">steveg@abrazosdata.com</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Photo Story - Fixing Dip Switch<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:20161229015337.14852.qmail@hoster902.com">20161229015337.14852.qmail@<wbr>hoster902.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
Had a new one go out in a year.<br>
Hopefully the fix will last longer:<br>
<a href="http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/164757816" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.pbase.com/<wbr>stevegerow/image/164757816</a><br>
<br>
--<br>
Steve Gerow<br>
Altadena, CA<br>
BN6<br>
Maker of Most Complete Rear Disc Kit<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 06:14:05 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <<a href="mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net">rrengineer.mike@att.net</a>><br>
To: "Steve B. Gerow" <<a href="mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com">steveg@abrazosdata.com</a>>,<br>
"<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Photo Story - Fixing Dip Switch<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:1898563573.3141964.1482992045934@mail.yahoo.com">1898563573.3141964.<wbr>1482992045934@mail.yahoo.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
You're pretty handy Steve.? Nice work.? It's nice that you document this stuff too.Mike MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wednesday, December 28, 2016 7:51 PM, Steve B. Gerow <<a href="mailto:steveg@abrazosdata.com">steveg@abrazosdata.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Had a new one go out in a year.<br>
Hopefully the fix will last longer:<br>
<a href="http://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/image/164757816" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.pbase.com/<wbr>stevegerow/image/164757816</a><br>
<br>
--<br>
Steve Gerow<br>
Altadena, CA<br>
BN6<br>
Maker of Most Complete Rear Disc Kit<br>
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Message: 10<br>
Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2016 22:31:23 -0800<br>
From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <<a href="mailto:healeymanjim@hansencc.net">healeymanjim@hansencc.net</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: [Healeys] condensor<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:20161229063123.16383.qmail@server278.com">20161229063123.16383.qmail@<wbr>server278.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
i had always thought that a condenser either worked or did not. past few weeks i have had two condensers on a bj7 that<br>
failed, giving all the symptoms of fuel starvation. replaced the first one that went bad with a new one and it lasted 8 miles<br>
before giving the same symptoms. replaced the new one with an old one i had in bottom of electrical bin and it has been<br>
working fine. go figure!!<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 10:59:09 +0100<br>
From: Oudesluys <<a href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>><br>
To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] coilt induction ingition<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:98fe2b66-0fdf-9e7a-a310-bf600d4616b2@chello.nl">98fe2b66-0fdf-9e7a-a310-<wbr>bf600d4616b2@chello.nl</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
I presume a larger capacitor might influence the speed of the collapse<br>
of the magnetic field, reducing the voltage produced in the secondary coil.<br>
To prevent arcing as much as possible in the Lucas fuel pump I now<br>
install a "transil" across the points instead of the earlier used and<br>
less effective capacitor or diode. This could probably also be done on<br>
the distributor points. As I do not run points any more so I cannot try<br>
it out myself.<br>
A transil is very cheap, $1-$5 depending on where you get them. I got a<br>
larger quantity for less than $1 a piece on eBay. I use a bidirectional<br>
one in the fuel pump to make them positive and negative earth:<br>
/1.5KE24CA,/ CA indicating it is bidirectional.<br>
May be worth a try?<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
//<br>
Op 28-12-2016 om 22:56 schreef Ed O'Neal:<br>
><br>
> Gents,<br>
><br>
> By way of recap: When the points close current flows through the<br>
> primary (12 volt) side of the coil. When they open the magnetic field<br>
> around the coil collapses across the secondary coil windings (high<br>
> voltage) driving a high voltage current across the plug gap and firing<br>
> the cylinder. At the same time the magnetic field also across the<br>
> primary windings attempting to drive a current across the open points<br>
> and creating a relatively high voltage (perhaps 400 volts) which will<br>
> want to arc across the open points and wearing them out quickly. To<br>
> mitigate this a condenser (capacitor) is places between the points<br>
> coil connection and ground which absorbs the ?shock? of the current<br>
> being driven towards the open points and reducing the potential for<br>
> arcing across the points allowing them to last longer.<br>
><br>
> Question: Why would a larger condenser (capacitor) not reduce the<br>
> potential for arcing across the points even more? What might be the<br>
> down side of such an attempt???<br>
><br>
> Thanks for your expertise in advance.<br>
><br>
> Ed<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of<br>
> *Al Fuller<br>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 28, 2016 2:40 PM<br>
> *To:* 'Healeys, Forum'<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
><br>
> Josef:<br>
><br>
> Petty broad brush you are painting some of us with there? [Quote:<br>
> ?People who swap a generator for an alternator like to modify in any<br>
> way.?] Without further comment to your over-statement, I WILL say the<br>
> following:<br>
><br>
> I drive my car on multi-day cross-country trips and see the value in<br>
> installing a modern alternator. The generators on our cars were<br>
> installed 50 years ago, and designed way before that to provide a<br>
> fairly modest output [~20 amps, if memory serves]. The generator was<br>
> barely able to supply the car?s needs as supplied, and modern use<br>
> calls for additional and more power-hungry apliances in the car, such<br>
> as headlights that actually light up the road ahead?<br>
><br>
> I now have an alternator that will power the car, headlghts, the CB<br>
> radio I consider a necessity when driving in a multi car caravan,<br>
> etc. An added bonus is if it happens to fail, rebuild or repar are<br>
> readily available. Note that none of this drives me necessiarily to<br>
> any other modifications.<br>
><br>
> Al Fuller<br>
><br>
> al at bighealey dot org<br>
><br>
> '65 BJ-8<br>
><br>
> '85 Rx-7<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.<wbr>team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of<br>
> *<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">josef-eckert@t-online.de</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de">josef-eckert@t-online.<wbr>de</a>><br>
> *Sent:* Friday, December 23, 2016 4:07 PM<br>
> *To:* Simon Lachlan <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@<wbr>homecall.co.uk</a>>>; Healeys, Forum<br>
> <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a> <mailto:<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><wbr>>><br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
><br>
> People who swap a generator for an alternator like to modify in any<br>
> way. Anybody who knows more about electrics know there is no need for<br>
> an alternator at all on Healeys. its only to adjust the rehulator to<br>
> work as it should. But that?s to difficult for most I suspect.<br>
><br>
> those selling these alternators are quite happy to sell them as people<br>
> like to modify and they also sell you one of these performance coils<br>
> and they need to be kept cool and best is to put the coil in the boot<br>
> to keep it cool. Haven?t seen that so far but can?t await to see it.<br>
><br>
> Josef Eckert<br>
><br>
> Konigswinter/Germany<br>
><br>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----<br>
><br>
> Betreff: [Healeys] Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
><br>
> Datum: 2016-12-23T21:57:44+0100<br>
><br>
> Von: "Simon Lachlan" <<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">simon.lachlan@<wbr>homecall.co.uk</a>>><br>
><br>
> An: "'Healey Group'" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><wbr>>><br>
><br>
> I?ve had an alternator in my BT7 for a while now.<br>
><br>
> So, when I was doing the job, I looked at pictures of other people?s<br>
> installations. Nobody?s coil was mounted on the alternator as coils<br>
> were/are mounted on the generators.<br>
><br>
> I didn?t mount mine on the alternator either.<br>
><br>
> Now, I?m wondering why everybody found ingenious places to put the<br>
> coils and nobody ingeniously adapted their brackets to fit onto their<br>
> alternator.<br>
><br>
> Do alternators get too hot? Do they give off some kind of magic death<br>
> ray that fries coils or what??<br>
><br>
> Any reasons not to do it??<br>
><br>
> Thanks,<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
> ?<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> ______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
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<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 16:47:25 +0100<br>
From: Per Schoerner <<a href="mailto:per@schoerner.se">per@schoerner.se</a>><br>
To: Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
Cc: Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Help! (Steering Box)<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:73213DCD-BD69-4A81-9CF2-7E106BE5099E@schoerner.se">73213DCD-BD69-4A81-9CF2-<wbr>7E106BE5099E@schoerner.se</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
I think you're right, the upper bearing has "fallen" out from its races. I think you might be able to locate it right again by moving the column down a bit, and then "glue" the bearing to one of the races using grease. If that is unsuccessful you may need to take the whole assembly out again.<br>
To ease the locating of the stator tube in the olive hole try to file a kone of the tube.<br>
<br>
Per<br>
<br>
Skickat fr?n min iPhone<br>
<br>
> 28 dec. 2016 kl. 23:22 skrev Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>:<br>
><br>
> Listers,<br>
><br>
> Looks like I've goofed somehow. I was finishing installing my new Lempert steering wheel on my BN2 and had a problem getting the stator tube back down through the steering box (I think it was catching at the 'stud' on the end plate that the olive gets bolted-up to). Anyway, after no success finagling the tube through the hole I made the idiotic move of pulling the end plate off the steering box. I've done this before to apply some sealant to the plate and shims to stop leaking, but this time the lower bearings and their race fell out. No amount of sworking can get the bearings and race back into the box far enough that the plate can be pulled fully down, even with a 1/32" or so of shim packing; if I pull the bolts down the steering locks up. I've studied the shop (Moss) diagram, and there are matching bearings and race at the upper and lower ends of the box; thinking the upper might have slipped out of place I pulled the top cover off the box, but I don't see anything loose or<br>
out of place. No matter how carefully I try to pull the bolts down on the end plate I'm having no luck getting the lower bearing and race into the box. Anybody have any ideas? Been stuck in this predicament before? I've tried moving the wheel from lock-to-lock and centered and everywhere in between, but it seems as if the steering shaft has moved down a 1/16" or more, making it impossible to get the bearing and cup back in sufficiently far. Oh, and I did all the tightening and adjusting of the steering wheel before I pulled the cover off the box so I don't think the installation of the wheel had anything to do with this.<br>
><br>
> Who can bail me out of this predicament? If I don't get this resolved, my beautiful new steering wheel will be a static display only :(<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> ______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 13<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 12:05:31 -0500<br>
From: Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
Cc: Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Help! (Steering Box)<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LJf9NOj0n9SMA+<wbr>O9Fs6L9bO8ewH+7NHNG0h=<a href="mailto:uYzh72FtA@mail.gmail.com">uYzh72Ft<wbr>A@mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Hi Bob,<br>
While attempting to drain and refill the steering box and after failing to<br>
heed my instructions to just loosen the 4 bolts a couple of turns one of my<br>
employees did exactly the same thing on a customer's car many years ago .<br>
As I recall he worked all day to resolve the problem without success and<br>
eventually we concluded that the drop arm (rocker arm) was holding the<br>
shaft and worm (column) down sufficiently to prevent the upper bearing from<br>
going into position.<br>
We ended up removing the mounting bolts, firewall flanges and upper clamp<br>
then rotating the box sufficiently to fit a puller and remove the steering<br>
lever which seemed to resolve the issue.<br>
<a href="http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2012/06/24/austin-healey-steering-lever-removal/" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.netbug.net/<wbr>blogmichael/2012/06/24/austin-<wbr>healey-steering-lever-removal/</a><br>
Would probably have been faster to have removed the entire box assembly as<br>
we could have repainted the steering box at the same time!!!<br>
In the trade its called ENFORCED EXPERIENCE.<br>
<br>
Michael S<br>
BN1 #174<br>
<br>
On Thu, Dec 29, 2016 at 10:47 AM, Per Schoerner <<a href="mailto:per@schoerner.se">per@schoerner.se</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
> Bob<br>
> I think you're right, the upper bearing has "fallen" out from its races. I<br>
> think you might be able to locate it right again by moving the column down<br>
> a bit, and then "glue" the bearing to one of the races using grease. If<br>
> that is unsuccessful you may need to take the whole assembly out again.<br>
> To ease the locating of the stator tube in the olive hole try to file a<br>
> kone of the tube.<br>
><br>
> Per<br>
><br>
> Skickat fr?n min iPhone<br>
><br>
> > 28 dec. 2016 kl. 23:22 skrev Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>:<br>
> ><br>
> > Listers,<br>
> ><br>
> > Looks like I've goofed somehow. I was finishing installing my new<br>
> Lempert steering wheel on my BN2 and had a problem getting the stator tube<br>
> back down through the steering box (I think it was catching at the 'stud'<br>
> on the end plate that the olive gets bolted-up to). Anyway, after no<br>
> success finagling the tube through the hole I made the idiotic move of<br>
> pulling the end plate off the steering box. I've done this before to apply<br>
> some sealant to the plate and shims to stop leaking, but this time the<br>
> lower bearings and their race fell out. No amount of sworking can get the<br>
> bearings and race back into the box far enough that the plate can be pulled<br>
> fully down, even with a 1/32" or so of shim packing; if I pull the bolts<br>
> down the steering locks up. I've studied the shop (Moss) diagram, and<br>
> there are matching bearings and race at the upper and lower ends of the<br>
> box; thinking the upper might have slipped out of place I pulled the top<br>
> cover off the box, but I don't see anything loose or out of place. No<br>
> matter how carefully I try to pull the bolts down on the end plate I'm<br>
> having no luck getting the lower bearing and race into the box. Anybody<br>
> have any ideas? Been stuck in this predicament before? I've tried moving<br>
> the wheel from lock-to-lock and centered and everywhere in between, but it<br>
> seems as if the steering shaft has moved down a 1/16" or more, making it<br>
> impossible to get the bearing and cup back in sufficiently far. Oh, and I<br>
> did all the tightening and adjusting of the steering wheel before I pulled<br>
> the cover off the box so I don't think the installation of the wheel had<br>
> anything to do with this.<br>
> ><br>
> > Who can bail me out of this predicament? If I don't get this resolved,<br>
> my beautiful new steering wheel will be a static display only :(<br>
> ><br>
> > Bob<br>
> ><br>
> > ______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
> > Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> > Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
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> ><br>
> > <a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> > <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>listinfo/healeys</a><br>
> ><br>
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/</a><br>
> options/healeys/<a href="mailto:per@schoerner.se">per@schoerner.<wbr>se</a><br>
> ><br>
><br>
> ______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
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><br>
> <a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
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> options/healeys/<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@<wbr>gmail.com</a><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
<br>
--<br>
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*<br>
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<br>
Message: 14<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 12:17:04 -0500<br>
From: "Robert F. Begani" <<a href="mailto:RFBegani@speakeasy.net">RFBegani@speakeasy.net</a>><br>
To: "'Healeys, Forum'" <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Refinish<br>
Message-ID: <032c01d261f7$610a3140$<wbr>231e93c0$@<a href="http://speakeasy.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">speakeasy.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Hi everyone:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Before I install my engine, what should be done to refinish the rusty<br>
Exhaust Manifolf.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
BJ8 67<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 15<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 12:28:24 -0500<br>
From: "Robert F. Begani" <<a href="mailto:RFBegani@speakeasy.net">RFBegani@speakeasy.net</a>><br>
To: <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Mount a coil on an alternator.<br>
Message-ID: <035001d261f8$f62ec690$<wbr>e28c53b0$@<a href="http://speakeasy.net" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">speakeasy.net</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Yes they are still in business and offer on plug coils and lots of other<br>
products for today's automobile even though they got beat up badly in the<br>
last recession. They have plants in Mexico and Kansas according to<br>
Wikipedia. The founding family is still active in the company. At one time<br>
I knew a few of them when I was exporting automotive products. Hopefully,<br>
they produce the better grade of ignition parts in the USA. 50 percent of<br>
their products are made in USA.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
BJ8<br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 16<br>
Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 07:45:37 +1300<br>
From: Austin Healeys List <<a href="mailto:austinhealeyslist@gmail.com">austinhealeyslist@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: "Robert F. Begani" <<a href="mailto:RFBegani@speakeasy.net">RFBegani@speakeasy.net</a>><br>
Cc: "Healeys, Forum" <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Refinish<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAGHuNqBkwP-sWrxJzrNQ+<wbr>aTnUEE4RY_AX3gO8K1rcki46Qb=<a href="mailto:9w@mail.gmail.com">9w@<wbr>mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8<br>
<br>
Ceramic coating always looks nice. There are two types, one is<br>
decorative and the other provides quite a significant drop in radiated<br>
heat which is great for reducing underhood temps. It is quite thick<br>
and prone to chipping if handled roughly but the thermal properties<br>
are worth it imo. The black decorative coating looks great on the<br>
entire exhaust system too.<br>
<br>
Jet-hot is a common brand name, we call it HPC over here.<br>
<a href="http://www.hpcoatings.co.nz/ExhaustHeatManagement.aspx#HiPerCoat" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.hpcoatings.co.nz/<wbr>ExhaustHeatManagement.aspx#<wbr>HiPerCoat</a><br>
<br>
<br>
Andy.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 12/30/16, Robert F. Begani <<a href="mailto:RFBegani@speakeasy.net">RFBegani@speakeasy.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> Hi everyone:<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Before I install my engine, what should be done to refinish the rusty<br>
> Exhaust Manifolf.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Bob Begani<br>
><br>
> BJ8 67<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 17<br>
Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2016 10:45:39 -0800<br>
From: i erbs <<a href="mailto:eyera3000@gmail.com">eyera3000@gmail.com</a>><br>
To: "Robert F. Begani" <<a href="mailto:RFBegani@speakeasy.net">RFBegani@speakeasy.net</a>><br>
Cc: "Healeys, Forum" <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Exhaust Manifold Refinish<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<<a href="mailto:CABXhz8-OL%2BQywQ7WkECvP_bN7J0UFbS_O4oQcfjdCB5WtY-94Q@mail.gmail.com">CABXhz8-OL+QywQ7WkECvP_<wbr>bN7J0UFbS_O4oQcfjdCB5WtY-94Q@<wbr>mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I had mine ceramic coated black and my intake coated silver<br>
<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
Portland,OR<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
On Thu, Dec 29, 2016 at 9:17 AM, Robert F. Begani <<a href="mailto:RFBegani@speakeasy.net">RFBegani@speakeasy.net</a>><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Hi everyone:<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Before I install my engine, what should be done to refinish the rusty<br>
> Exhaust Manifolf.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Bob Begani<br>
><br>
> BJ8 67<br>
><br>
> ______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.<wbr>html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
><br>
> <a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/<wbr>listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/</a><br>
> options/healeys/<a href="mailto:eyera3000@gmail.com">eyera3000@<wbr>gmail.com</a><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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Subject: Digest Footer<br>
<br>
______________________________<wbr>_________________<br>
Healeys mailing list<br>
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<br>
End of Healeys Digest, Vol 9, Issue 372<br>
******************************<wbr>*********<br>
</blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div><span style="font-family:garamond,serif">Albert Seminatore</span><br></div>Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV<br></div>eMail: <a href="mailto:alsemus1@gmail.com" target="_blank">alsemus1@gmail.com</a><br></div></div>
</div>