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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Hear, hear!!<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 19-12-2016 om 22:10 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hello</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>I have recently had the starter
rebuilt for our 1948 Healey. Apart from the bolt plate it’s
the same as fitted to the 100 BN3 and other early
Austin-Healeys.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Beforehand it was very sluggish and I
was thinking of fitting a geared starter or even twin 12v
batteries. However once serviced with new brushes, a little
machining of the commutator and a good clean it’s now
spinning like a top and the engine starts immediately I
press the button.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>British cars have been using Lucas
products since the beginning of motoring. It is excellent
equipment and the DHMC was highly successful at Le Mans,
Sebring etc with cars fitted with Lucas electrics. The
answer of course is proper maintenance as you would do with
the rest of the car.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Hoo Roo</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Patrick Quinn</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Blue Mountains, Australia </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Michael MacLean<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, 20 December 2016 5:45 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Bob Spidell; <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Starters and Generators;
was Re: Starting a BJ8</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Going to pickup my starter from
the re-builder today. I am going to ask him about the
bushing and oiling it or not. When I dropped it off
last Thursday he checked it out for me first. He said
it was weak. Maybe he is not used to Lucas starters.
It is still going to look weak after he re-builds it.
It is definitely not a gear reduction kind of speed.</span></p>
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<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1482172302549_63601">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Mike MacLean</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>On Monday, December 19,
2016 8:43 AM, Bob Spidell <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:</span><span></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span>re: "If I am not mistaken
there is a small hole in the back plate of the <br>
dynamo (and starter?) to lubricate the bronze
bush now and again."<br>
<br>
You are not mistaken. There also is supposed to
be a felt pad between <br>
the oiling hole and the bushing; mine didn't
have this pad and from <br>
dutifully oiling the bush--probably over-oiling
it--the inside of my <br>
generator became oil-soaked. When I opened it
up to do just the <br>
maintenance Kees described I saw that the field
coil insulation--just a <br>
cloth wrap, basically--had seriously
deteriorated; probably at least <br>
partly from all the oil. My only choice was to
send it to a 'pro' <br>
rebuilder; who replaces the armature and field
coils as a matter of <br>
course. He says he installs an oillite-type
bush that doesn't need <br>
extra oiling.<br>
<br>
I rebuilt my starter years ago and used silicone
lubricant on the Bendix <br>
mechanism. I like this stuff because it doesn't
seem to attract dirt <br>
like petroleum oils do. Moly/graphite sounds
like a good idea too.<br>
<br>
Bob</span></p>
<div id="yqtfd91375">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span><br>
On 12/19/2016 1:45 AM, Oudesluys wrote:<br>
> You generally do not have to have it
rebuilt to improve performance. <br>
> It is just a matter of maintainance. If
taken care of properly they <br>
> perform well and last forever.<br>
> Just cleaning up often does the trick. It
is an easy job. Clean the <br>
> inside using e.g. a spray can of brake
cleaner but be careful with <br>
> some strong solvents in case they
dissolve the shellac of the <br>
> windings. Just clean up the commutator
with 400 grade sandpaper, or <br>
> better skim the commutator on a lathe,
cut the insulator between the <br>
> copper segments with a narrow (ground
flat sides) hack saw blade to <br>
> about 1/2mm below the surface if needed,
inspect/clean/renew the <br>
> brushes (when the commutator has been
skimmed), oil the bronze bushes, <br>
> clean the bendix thoroughly and lubricate
with molybdenum/graphite <br>
> powder rubbed in on the shaft and it
should be fine for the next 25 <br>
> years minimum.<br>
><br>
> By the way, more or less the same goes
for the dynamo, although there <br>
> is a chance that you may have to renew
the bronze bearing bush at the <br>
> back and the ball bearing at the front.
If I am not mistaken there is <br>
> a small hole in the back plate of the
dynamo (and starter?) to <br>
> lubricate the bronze bush now and again.<br>
> Many years ago I used to modify dynamo's
to take a ball bearing at the <br>
> back.<br>
><br>
> No need for an often short lived modern
geared starter.<br>
> Kees Oudesluijs<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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