<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><i>"There must be some way to adjust."</i><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">No, there isn't any need. The "free play elimination spring" (That's my name, not sure if there is an official one) inside the slave cylinder removes any necessity for clutch adjustment...BUT...it is that very spring that caused so many problems with winter driven TR6's in this part of the world.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">As Kees described <i> "Excessive wear on the clutch cover can be caused when the bearing
is just touching the fingers, but not enough to spin the bearing
at the same speed"<br></i></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The "free play elimination spring" did exactly that i.e. it caused the bearing to just touch the fingers of the clutch cover BUT in cold weather the grease in the bearing thickened up enough to prevent the bearing from spinning freely which contact eventually caused the clutch fingers to wear away and break off accompanied by some horrendous noises in most cases!!!<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The TR2/6 clutch operating system was a poor design right from the start and this was one of numerous problems with it but I digress :-)<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Dec 18, 2016 at 12:03 PM, Oudesluys <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div class="m_3862729356271468087moz-cite-prefix">There must be some way to adjust. Often
the rod can be lengthened/shortened by adjusting a nut, the slave
cylinder perhaps can be moved forwards/backwards, shimming etc. I
presume the return spring in the slave cylinder is strong enough
to push back the piston.<br>
Excessive wear on the clutch cover can be caused when the bearing
is just touching the fingers, but not enough to spin the bearing
at the same speed, and/or by a foot resting lightly on the clutch
pedal.<br>
With the clutch pedal released a clutch roller/ball bearing should
not spin.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 18-12-2016 om 16:26 schreef Bob Spidell:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"><div><div class="h5">
<p>"... proper adjustment of the clutch is at hand"</p>
<p>And just how is that done with a hydraulic clutch?*</p>
<p>bs<br>
</p>
* Yeah, I'm being snarky (but half-serious). Sorry Kees ;)<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="m_3862729356271468087moz-cite-prefix">On 12/18/2016 1:31 AM, Oudesluys
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div class="m_3862729356271468087moz-cite-prefix">The wear on the "fingers"of the
clutch cover is no problem. Nearly all cars having a
roller/ball clutch release bearing are of this this
construction. It is slight and when they have gone to far the
rest of the part is worn as well. Anyway, considerable wear on
the clutch cover fingers indicates to little clearance and
proper adjustment of the clutch is at hand.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 17-12-2016 om 22:44 schreef <a class="m_3862729356271468087moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<p dir="auto">Based upon my experience with the TR6 clutch,
which uses that system, I would be reluctant to make the
change. They have a habit of wearing away the "fingers" of
the clutch diaphragm.<br>
I have found that the most common cause of carbon release
bearing failure is a lengthened slave cylinder push rod
which causes the bearing to be in continuious heavy contact
with the pressure plate "platen" at all times. Furthermore
the pressure rises as the clutch dics wears which exuberates
(my $10 word of the day) the situation. <br>
There MUST ALWAYS be free play at the clutch slave cylinder
push rod when the clutch pedal is not depressed.<br>
Just sayin'</p>
<p dir="auto">Michael S <br>
BN1 #174</p>
<p dir="auto">From: Bob Spidell<br>
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 4:05 PM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Throw out bearing<br>
To: <a class="m_3862729356271468087moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
</p>
<p dir="auto"><a href="https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/performance-parts/Clutch/RELEASE-BEARING-BALL-RACE.aspx" target="_blank">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/<wbr>austin-healey/performance-<wbr>parts/Clutch/RELEASE-BEARING-<wbr>BALL-RACE.aspx</a></p>
<p dir="auto">Denis Welch has them, too, but I'm too lazy to
look it up for you ;)</p>
<p dir="auto">Note you have to remove the metal 'platen' on
the clutch cover; for some reason I'm not totally
comfortable with that mod (but no personal experience).</p>
<p dir="auto">Cheers,</p>
<p dir="auto">Bob<br>
</p>
<br>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
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