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<p>I switched to Redline 75/90 gear oil 30K miles ago after OD began locking up. No problems since.</p>
<p>George McHarris<br>
</p>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 11pt;"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, November 2, 2016 6:32 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 9, Issue 304</font>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Please disregard request on door handle repair<br>
(Charles "CJ" Johnson)<br>
2. Re: Gearbox oil (Team.net)<br>
3. Re: How about running ATF in your transmission?<br>
(Austin Healeys List)<br>
4. Re: Gearbox oil (Michael Salter)<br>
5. Re: brake servo parts (Bob)<br>
6. Re: Gearbox oil (Simon Lachlan)<br>
7. Re: brake servo parts (Bob Spidell)<br>
8. Re: brake servo parts (Bob Spidell)<br>
9. Oil Degreasers (Michael MacLean)<br>
10. Re: Oil Degreasers (Oudesluys)<br>
11. Re: Oil Degreasers (Alan Seigrist)<br>
12. Re: Gearbox oil (Oudesluys)<br>
13. Re: Gearbox oil (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)<br>
14. Re: Oil Degreasers (Bob Spidell)<br>
15. Missing pages. (Simon Lachlan)<br>
16. Re: Oil Degreasers (michael.salter@gmail.com)<br>
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----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 14:05:21 -0400<br>
From: "Charles \"CJ\" Johnson" <charles1783@charter.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Please disregard request on door handle repair<br>
Message-ID: <3EB8C5A7-EEB0-42E6-8ADA-02E2F4B4DFE4@charter.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii<br>
<br>
The handle is snapped and will have to be replaced.<br>
<br>
V/r<br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 14:20:27 -0400<br>
From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com><br>
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com><br>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
Message-ID: <AF4293DD-A5BB-43AA-8583-F985AE8BE378@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.<br>
<br>
Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not work for others.<br>
> On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive. Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows
any wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.<br>
> <br>
> Steve Byers<br>
> HBJ8L/36666<br>
> BJ8 Registry<br>
> AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
> Havelock, NC <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> From: Healeys [<a href=""></a>mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott<br>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM<br>
> To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald<br>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
> <br>
> Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.<br>
> <br>
> Regards,<br>
> <br>
> Charlie Schott<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <<a href="http://team.net/">http://team.net/</a>> <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">
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Message: 3<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 10:08:10 +1300<br>
From: Austin Healeys List <austinhealeyslist@gmail.com><br>
To: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com><br>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How about running ATF in your transmission?<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAGHuNqA_Hvrr1nAwuYSE0sTDG0KAcpNfbP6LKMXoDF-9vDbXeA@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8<br>
<br>
I ran atf in my not-Healey for about ten years and the box was<br>
noisier, leaked more and took a long time to spin down to engage the<br>
unsynchronised 1st gear. The synchro action on 2 and 3 is considerably<br>
better though, particularly when cold. Went back to Redline<br>
conventional transmission oil and it seems to be a better compromise.<br>
<br>
The Tremec gearbox has a lot of large gears spinning over in there so<br>
I'd imagine ATF has an advantage with reduced viscosity drag plus less<br>
ability to lubricate the synchroniser cone during shifting. 1980s<br>
Japanese 5 speed transaxles had the same issue and used ATF to improve<br>
gear shifting.<br>
<br>
ATF will likely have detergents in it so may stir up all that brass<br>
sludge which accumulates in the OD cavities in an old gearbox.<br>
<br>
On 11/2/16, Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos@msn.com> wrote:<br>
> Maybe this one has been covered before, but TREMEC insists in using in their<br>
> 5 speeds so the synchronizers engage properly. I tried it in my Elva and<br>
> the synchronizers didn't grind at the last race in New Orleans.<br>
><br>
><br>
> <a href="http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=110#Q2">http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=110#Q2</a><br>
><br>
><br>
> Scroll down to read their argument.........<br>
><br>
><br>
> Thinking about putting it in the Healey.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM<br>
><br>
><br>
> Sent from Outlook<<a href="http://aka.ms/weboutlook">http://aka.ms/weboutlook</a>><br>
><br>
<br>
<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:14:27 -0400<br>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
To: Forum <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LJXYxhXNp+cY+tVQYnsgPGcZ34Nym=dyji1FaBXtAcaSQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
The subject of gearbox oils has be discussed on this list more than once.<br>
I am not advocating the use of gear oil in these boxes but the subject is<br>
sure to be raised again..<br>
In the interests of saving some band width a couple of points.<br>
<br>
1. No one has ever reported seeing any evidence of Extreme Pressure<br>
(EP) additives damaging the bronze syncro rings in our gearboxes.<br>
2. Laycock DeNormanville, the manufacturer of our overdrive units DO<br>
NOT specify what lubricant is used in their overdrive units, they leave<br>
that up to the manufacturer of the gearbox to which it is attached and<br>
shares its lubricant. EP oils will not adversely affect the overdrive<br>
unit, in fact 80/90 gear oil was the factory recommendation for the TR6<br>
with either type of overdrive "A" or "J".<br>
<br>
Now back to regularly scheduled program :-)<br>
<br>
Michael S<br>
BN1 #174<br>
<br>
On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 1:08 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
> I agree with Steve. I'm now using Penrite GB30 Gearbox oil.<br>
><br>
> Derek<br>
><br>
> On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 4:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:<br>
><br>
>> Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've<br>
>> always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive.<br>
>> Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter<br>
>> in the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of<br>
>> the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Steve Byers<br>
>><br>
>> HBJ8L/36666<br>
>><br>
>> BJ8 Registry<br>
>><br>
>> AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
>><br>
>> Havelock, NC<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> *From:* Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of *Charlie<br>
>> Schott<br>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM<br>
>> *To:* Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald<br>
>> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox<br>
>> with overdrive. Thanks.<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Regards,<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> Charlie Schott<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
>> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>><br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/">http://autox.team.net/mailman/</a><br>
>> options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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-- <br>
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*<br>
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<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:56:07 -0400<br>
From: Bob <robertlarson@att.net><br>
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com>, Simon<br>
Lachlan <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk><br>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo parts<br>
Message-ID: <f920c7d0-4fe7-8734-abc5-cea65ca96823@att.net><br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 00:21:36 -0000<br>
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk><br>
To: "'Team.net'" <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>, "'BJ8Healeys'"<br>
<sbyers@ec.rr.com><br>
Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
Message-ID: <00cb01d2349f$13b6b0b0$3b241210$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
30wt non detergent. <br>
<br>
Drips? Hard to tell but I don't think so. Certainly no more than before.<br>
<br>
Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on previous<br>
20/50. <br>
<br>
Better for the gearbox's internals? The jury remains out on that one!<br>
<br>
Worth it? Well there's nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if you're<br>
draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD changes...might help.<br>
<br>
Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you've got the filter and the<br>
magnets. Doesn't make much difference what oil you use if they're missing.<br>
<br>
2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the earlier<br>
one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that's done, the whole<br>
process becomes much easier. <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Steve's right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.<br>
<br>
You'll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings out<br>
some fairly spirited remarks!?<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Team.net<br>
Sent: 01 November 2016 18:20<br>
To: BJ8Healeys<br>
Cc: Ahealey help<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. Changed back<br>
to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not<br>
work for others.<br>
<br>
On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've<br>
always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive.<br>
Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in<br>
the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of the<br>
oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Steve Byers<br>
<br>
HBJ8L/36666<br>
<br>
BJ8 Registry<br>
<br>
AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
<br>
Havelock, NC <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [ <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott<br>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM<br>
To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald<br>
Cc: <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with<br>
overdrive. Thanks.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Charlie Schott<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 7<br>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:24:45 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo parts<br>
Message-ID: <10bf0c68-4462-e407-923b-80e4345f6236@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Buna-N aka nitrile.<br>
<br>
I've ordered from here before: <br>
<a href="http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=367_23">http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=367_23</a><br>
<br>
Good service.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 11/1/2016 8:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:<br>
><br>
> Look, I haven?t played with a Lockheed Servo in years but my initial <br>
> response was to suggest that you buy a box of different size <br>
> ?O-rings?. We get them over here anyhow....a plastic box about 5? by <br>
> 3? with little compartments filled with different sized rings. Costs <br>
> nothing and the contents will keep you going forever. And there will <br>
> be a ring in there that fits. And they are probably on eBay. BUT, BUT, <br>
> will an ordinary O-ring survive in brake fluid? I don?t know, but I do <br>
> know that I put in a Girling rebuild kit once which worked fine for a <br>
> while and then gave up. There was no warning, no gradual process. I <br>
> nearly hit a wall. One of the little nylony/rubbery things had turned <br>
> itself into something with the same consistency and usefulness as a <br>
> ten year old tea bag. It didn?t like brake fluid and it dissolved.<br>
><br>
> A few enquiries of the right people should see you right....<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of *Tom<br>
> *Sent:* 01 November 2016 12:48<br>
> *To:* Healey Mail List<br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] brake servo parts<br>
><br>
> Hi,<br>
><br>
> I am looking for a source for the 4 small O-rings that go on the air <br>
> valve piston on the Lockheed brake booster for my BJ8.<br>
><br>
> Just to make sure I described the part correctly, the air valve piston <br>
> is #5 at <br>
> <a href="http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Brake%20servo%20working%20note%20190109.pdf">
http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Brake%20servo%20working%20note%20190109.pdf</a>,
<br>
> or the "reaction piston" at <br>
> <a href="http://www.triumph-spitfire.nl/servoimages.htm">http://www.triumph-spitfire.nl/servoimages.htm</a>.<br>
><br>
> I took the whole thing apart last winter, and everything looks like <br>
> it's in good shape, so I don't need to replace the whole booster or <br>
> get a re-build kit from Moss, just looking for 4 O-rings.<br>
><br>
> thanks,<br>
><br>
> Tom<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:58:46 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo parts<br>
Message-ID: <c1528de3-7552-214b-bd26-c4fda7fab44a@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
I pressed 'enter' too soon .... looks like viton is a better choice: <br>
<a href="http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=page_3&zenid=d7c9a91ed7c20053fc9a69f05159459e">http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=page_3&zenid=d7c9a91ed7c20053fc9a69f05159459e</a><br>
<br>
<br>
On 11/1/2016 8:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:<br>
><br>
> Look, I haven?t played with a Lockheed Servo in years but my initial <br>
> response was to suggest that you buy a box of different size <br>
> ?O-rings?. We get them over here anyhow....a plastic box about 5? by <br>
> 3? with little compartments filled with different sized rings. Costs <br>
> nothing and the contents will keep you going forever. And there will <br>
> be a ring in there that fits. And they are probably on eBay. BUT, BUT, <br>
> will an ordinary O-ring survive in brake fluid? I don?t know, but I do <br>
> know that I put in a Girling rebuild kit once which worked fine for a <br>
> while and then gave up. There was no warning, no gradual process. I <br>
> nearly hit a wall. One of the little nylony/rubbery things had turned <br>
> itself into something with the same consistency and usefulness as a <br>
> ten year old tea bag. It didn?t like brake fluid and it dissolved.<br>
><br>
> A few enquiries of the right people should see you right....<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of *Tom<br>
> *Sent:* 01 November 2016 12:48<br>
> *To:* Healey Mail List<br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] brake servo parts<br>
><br>
> Hi,<br>
><br>
> I am looking for a source for the 4 small O-rings that go on the air <br>
> valve piston on the Lockheed brake booster for my BJ8.<br>
><br>
> Just to make sure I described the part correctly, the air valve piston <br>
> is #5 at <br>
> <a href="http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Brake%20servo%20working%20note%20190109.pdf">
http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Brake%20servo%20working%20note%20190109.pdf</a>,
<br>
> or the "reaction piston" at <br>
> <a href="http://www.triumph-spitfire.nl/servoimages.htm">http://www.triumph-spitfire.nl/servoimages.htm</a>.<br>
><br>
> I took the whole thing apart last winter, and everything looks like <br>
> it's in good shape, so I don't need to replace the whole booster or <br>
> get a re-build kit from Moss, just looking for 4 O-rings.<br>
><br>
> thanks,<br>
><br>
> Tom<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
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Message: 9<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 04:25:43 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
To: Healeys Help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers<br>
Message-ID: <1533140132.107335.1478060743793@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Guys,???? A while back I had my differential sand blasted.? It's already done, so let's move on to the problem.? The weeks following the sand blasting, I could not get to painting it yet.? Now, oil has spread from the drain plug, all over the bottom of the
pumpkin.? The sand blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal a problem.? What is the best product to remove any trace of this oil so I can paint my diff?? Remember, I am in California where anything that works or is effective is probably banned.
<br>
Mike MacLean<br>
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Message: 10<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 10:11:10 +0100<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers<br>
Message-ID: <0a99fd6c-c3cb-2129-524e-1ddc2f6cfd95@chello.nl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
<br>
You could try a brake cleaner spray bottle/can.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 2-11-2016 om 5:25 schreef Michael MacLean:<br>
> Guys,<br>
> A while back I had my differential sand blasted. It's already <br>
> done, so let's move on to the problem. The weeks following the sand <br>
> blasting, I could not get to painting it yet. Now, oil has spread <br>
> from the drain plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin. The sand <br>
> blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal a problem. <br>
> What is the best product to remove any trace of this oil so I can <br>
> paint my diff? Remember, I am in California where anything that works <br>
> or is effective is probably banned.<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
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Message: 11<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 17:13:36 +0800<br>
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com><br>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
Cc: Healeys Help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAFBXTkJwdvMZk-u5Umjd3YeLtbgq5io=JT0uZM-3Zvwf8uufEw@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Carb or Brake Cleaner will do the trick and isn't necessarily banned in<br>
California. I think some brake cleaners are banned but I'm pretty sure you<br>
can still get carb cleaner in CA.<br>
<br>
On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
> Guys,<br>
> A while back I had my differential sand blasted. It's already done,<br>
> so let's move on to the problem. The weeks following the sand blasting, I<br>
> could not get to painting it yet. Now, oil has spread from the drain plug,<br>
> all over the bottom of the pumpkin. The sand blasting did not help things<br>
> and makes the oil removal a problem. What is the best product to remove<br>
> any trace of this oil so I can paint my diff? Remember, I am in California<br>
> where anything that works or is effective is probably banned.<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/">http://autox.team.net/mailman/</a><br>
> options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
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Message: 12<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 10:24:38 +0100<br>
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
Message-ID: <65042c4c-edfb-bdd9-6b04-613eaedb232c@chello.nl><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
If there are bronze/brass baulk/synchro rings in the gearbox it is best <br>
to be on the safe side and not use EP oils that contain halogens F, Cl, <br>
Br, I as these may attack the bronze/brass components. Sunbeam for that <br>
matter stipulated to use SEA 30 or 20W50 engine oil. I do not see a <br>
reason to take the risk using EP oils. They do not ad much if anything. <br>
Straight or detergent containing does not matter much if you change the <br>
oil on a regular basis as prescribed in those days. Oil is cheap so I <br>
change the oil in my gearbox every time I change the engine oil, i.e. <br>
once a year. Use a drain plug with a magnet.<br>
<br>
Modern gearboxes may not even have a drain plug as the oil is never <br>
changed and we have become used to that!<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 2-11-2016 om 1:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:<br>
><br>
> 30wt non detergent.<br>
><br>
> Drips? Hard to tell but I don?t think so. Certainly no more than before.<br>
><br>
> Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on <br>
> previous 20/50.<br>
><br>
> Better for the gearbox?s internals? The jury remains out on that one!<br>
><br>
> Worth it? Well there?s nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if <br>
> you?re draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD <br>
> changes...might help.<br>
><br>
> Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you?ve got the filter and the <br>
> magnets. Doesn?t make much difference what oil you use if they?re missing.<br>
><br>
> 2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the <br>
> earlier one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that?s done, <br>
> the whole process becomes much easier.<br>
><br>
> Steve?s right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.<br>
><br>
> You?ll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings <br>
> out some fairly spirited remarks!?<br>
><br>
> Simon<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] *On Behalf Of
<br>
> *Team.net<br>
> *Sent:* 01 November 2016 18:20<br>
> *To:* BJ8Healeys<br>
> *Cc:* Ahealey help<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
><br>
> I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. <br>
> Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.<br>
><br>
> Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one <br>
> may not work for others.<br>
><br>
> On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com<br>
> <<a href="mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com">mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions.<br>
> I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and<br>
> overdrive. Non-detergent according to the theory that because<br>
> there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows any<br>
> wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being<br>
> continuously circulated through the mechanicals.<br>
><br>
> Steve Byers<br>
><br>
> HBJ8L/36666<br>
><br>
> BJ8 Registry<br>
><br>
> AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
><br>
> Havelock, NC<br>
><br>
> *From:*Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]*On Behalf<br>
> Of*Charlie Schott<br>
> *Sent:*Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM<br>
> *To:*Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald<br>
> *Cc:*healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
><br>
> Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8<br>
> gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.<br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
><br>
> Charlie Schott<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> SupportTeam.Net <<a href="http://team.net/">http://team.net/</a>>http://www.team.net/donate.html<br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive<br>
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><br>
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><br>
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><br>
><br>
><br>
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><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
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<br>
Message: 13<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 11:10:24 +0000<br>
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK@msn.com><br>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>, "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<DM3PR19MB0569E6933730DE5A5C499F88A5A00@DM3PR19MB0569.namprd19.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"<br>
<br>
EP lubes are formulated with an anti-friction additive especially for use in hypoid gear sets. That is because hypoid gears use a sliding contact rather than a rolling contact and the EP additive is required eliminate friction and to allow them to survive in
use.<br>
<br>
<br>
EP lubes should not be used in mechanisms that require built in friction to operate properly such as synchronizer rings in transmissions or limited slip differentials.<br>
<br>
<br>
Detergents in oils are intended to suspend microscopic contaminants such as soot particles in engine oil so it doesn't settle out and form deposits in oil passages. I will not suspend large particles such as brass or iron filings.<br>
<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
<br>
BN1#554<br>
<br>
________________________________<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl><br>
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2016 9:24:38 AM<br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
<br>
If there are bronze/brass baulk/synchro rings in the gearbox it is best to be on the safe side and not use EP oils that contain halogens F, Cl, Br, I as these may attack the bronze/brass components. Sunbeam for that matter stipulated to use SEA 30 or 20W50
engine oil. I do not see a reason to take the risk using EP oils. They do not ad much if anything. Straight or detergent containing does not matter much if you change the oil on a regular basis as prescribed in those days. Oil is cheap so I change the oil
in my gearbox every time I change the engine oil, i.e. once a year. Use a drain plug with a magnet.<br>
<br>
Modern gearboxes may not even have a drain plug as the oil is never changed and we have become used to that!<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 2-11-2016 om 1:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:<br>
30wt non detergent.<br>
Drips? Hard to tell but I don?t think so. Certainly no more than before.<br>
Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on previous 20/50.<br>
Better for the gearbox?s internals? The jury remains out on that one!<br>
Worth it? Well there?s nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if you?re draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD changes...might help.<br>
Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you?ve got the filter and the magnets. Doesn?t make much difference what oil you use if they?re missing.<br>
2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the earlier one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that?s done, the whole process becomes much easier.<br>
<br>
Steve?s right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.<br>
You?ll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings out some fairly spirited remarks!?<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Team.net<br>
Sent: 01 November 2016 18:20<br>
To: BJ8Healeys<br>
Cc: Ahealey help<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
<br>
I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.<br>
<br>
Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not work for others.<br>
On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers@ec.rr.com<mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com>> wrote:<br>
<br>
Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive. Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows any
wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.<br>
<br>
Steve Byers<br>
HBJ8L/36666<br>
BJ8 Registry<br>
AHCA Delegate at Large<br>
Havelock, NC<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott<br>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM<br>
To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald<br>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil<br>
<br>
Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
Charlie Schott<br>
<br>
<br>
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Message: 14<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 04:46:10 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers<br>
Message-ID: <b8d5cbd9-b7af-97c9-68d8-b01f916af578@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Agree with Alan, but follow-up with a 'pre-paint prep' similar to <br>
*http://tinyurl.com/hhz5u8s*<br>
<br>
I haven't used the Eastwood stuff, but got something similar at the <br>
local auto paint store (in California).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 11/2/2016 2:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:<br>
> Carb or Brake Cleaner will do the trick and isn't necessarily banned <br>
> in California. I think some brake cleaners are banned but I'm pretty <br>
> sure you can still get carb cleaner in CA.<br>
><br>
> On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean <br>
> <rrengineer.mike@att.net <<a href="mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net">mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Guys,<br>
> A while back I had my differential sand blasted. It's already<br>
> done, so let's move on to the problem. The weeks following the<br>
> sand blasting, I could not get to painting it yet. Now, oil has<br>
> spread from the drain plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin. <br>
> The sand blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal a<br>
> problem. What is the best product to remove any trace of this oil<br>
> so I can paint my diff? Remember, I am in California where<br>
> anything that works or is effective is probably banned.<br>
> Mike MacLean<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
><br>
<br>
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<br>
Message: 15<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 12:52:12 -0000<br>
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk><br>
To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Missing pages.<br>
Message-ID: <004e01d23507$ef032690$cd0973b0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
Hi,<br>
<br>
I'm on the scrounge......<br>
<br>
I have a pdf version of the BMC manual (AKD 1179H). Supposedly covers BN4 &<br>
BN6 plus the 3000s.<br>
<br>
Anyhow, I seem to be missing Gearbox sections FF & FFF. Can anyone spare the<br>
time to email me those pages?<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
<br>
Simon<br>
<br>
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Message: 16<br>
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 13:32:13 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: michael.salter@gmail.com<br>
To: Healeys Help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<749F94B05E660FF2.bd2348aa-b71e-4fb0-912f-a8d1a89be148@mail.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I just finished doing exactly that job on a rear end and steering box.<br>
<br>
I use brake clean for final degreasing but one important detail.<br>
<br>
Keep applying the brake clean until it runs off the bottom of the part CLEAR. It took 1 full cans to degrease these 2 items.<br>
<br>
I then wipe off as much as I can will a clean cloth.<br>
<br>
Michael S <br>
<br>
BN1 #174<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 7:56 AM -0400, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Agree with Alan, but follow-up with a 'pre-paint prep' similar to<br>
<a href="http://tinyurl.com/hhz5u8s">http://tinyurl.com/hhz5u8s</a><br>
<br>
<br>
I haven't used the Eastwood stuff, but got something similar at<br>
the local auto paint store (in California).<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 11/2/2016 2:13 AM, Alan Seigrist<br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Carb or Brake Cleaner will do the trick and isn't<br>
necessarily banned in California.? I think some brake cleaners<br>
are banned but I'm pretty sure you can still get carb cleaner in<br>
CA.<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 12:25 PM,<br>
Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike@att.net><br>
wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Guys,<br>
????<br>
A while back I had my differential sand blasted.? It's<br>
already done, so let's move on to the problem.? The<br>
weeks following the sand blasting, I could not get to<br>
painting it yet.? Now, oil has spread from the drain<br>
plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin.? The sand<br>
blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal<br>
a problem.? What is the best product to remove any<br>
trace of this oil so I can paint my diff?? Remember, I<br>
am in California where anything that works or is<br>
effective is probably banned. <br>
<br>
<br>
Mike<br>
MacLean<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
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End of Healeys Digest, Vol 9, Issue 304<br>
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