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<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #141100">
<DIV>Dan:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It depends. I run 72 spoke chrome wheels on both Healeys. The
tri-carb has approx. 10 year old Daytons – tubeless - on it. I’ve never
has a problem with them needing to be trued, and they are well sealed – no air
leaks in 25 – 30 thousand miles. The 72 spoke wheels not only have more
spokes than the 48’ and 60’s, but the spoke is a heavier (thicker) wire gauge
that is unlikely to need trueing in normal use. So tubeless would be a
good gamble with these wheels.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>About 3 –4 years ago, I bought the second set of Daytons – from Allen
Hendrix for the BJ8, along with a friend who bought a set at the same time for
his BJ8. These wheels were ordered tubeless, but when they were checked,
they were found to be so far out of true from the factory that Allen had to true
them all and install tubes in order to have them run even close to properly on
the cars. It was obvious that Dayton was having production problems
at the time, al least with that wheel size. It seems that the MWS wheels
are built to a much better quality standard these days. I wouldn’t
hesitate to run tubeless on the stronger wheels now.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Arial'; COLOR: #141100">Earl
Kagna<BR>Victoria, B.C.<BR>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb</DIV>
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<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=dcorning@ford.com
href="mailto:dcorning@ford.com">Corning, Dan (D.C.)</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, September 10, 2016 6:57 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=healeys@autox.team.net
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Spokes & Tubes</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
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<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida Bright","serif"'>Assuming wire
wheels will at some point need broken spokes replaced and truing, and this
breaks the tubeless seal, are tubeless wheels advisable?<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri","sans-serif"'><BR></SPAN><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida Bright","serif"'>Dan
Corning<o:p></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida Bright","serif"'><o:p></o:p></SPAN> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><o:p></o:p> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal>I appreciate your point Ira, but if you order wheels set up
for tubeless from Dayton, they seal the bottoms of the nuts to the rim to
prevent air leaks.<o:p></o:p></P>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>Tightening the nuts breaks the seal and then your tires lose
air.<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>This is not to say that a failed wheel is preferable, just
that fussing with the nuts brings on another set of problems. And, just
tightening the nuts doesn’t assure that the wheel is true.<o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal>That’s why I’m asking if this is a common problem.
Maybe I got a bad set.<o:p></o:p></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Lucida Bright","serif"'><o:p></o:p></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P
class=MsoNormal>Charlie<o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>