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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">You do need a sleeved thermostat to
close of the bypass. If this stays open part of the coolant will
not pass the radiator which may lead to overheating during
stop&go/high speed driving. <br>
The Smiths/AC etc. bellows thermostats can fail prematurely, on
the other hand it can last for donkeys years. The soldering was
done by hand so not very consistent and prone to faults in the
manufacturing process.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 7-9-2016 om 23:28 schreef i erbs:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">In most cases a failed water pump will leak out of
the bottom hole when the seals fail. Anothre way to test WP is
to grab a fan blade and wiggle it. I found a bad water pump
while out driving once that way. It will really move forward and
back if the pump is bad. The easiest way to test a thermostat is
to pull it and throw it into a pot heating water on the stove
with a candy thermometer in the water. it should start to open
165-195 depending on the temp rating. I had a NOS sleeved stat
in my car and it ran great with new HD radiator and high speed
fan, then it just began to overheat. tested the thermostat as
described and it barely opened even at boiling temp. replaced it
with a non-sleeved stat and all is great.</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
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<div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
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<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr">Ira Erbs
<div>Portland,OR</div>
<div><span> _______
_______</span><br>
<span> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)</span><br>
<span> (_________________________)</span></div>
<div> BT7 engine and disk brakes</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Please excuse random auto corrects and
misspelled words</div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Sep 7, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Simon
Lachlan <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div lang="EN-GB">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hi,</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This isn’t the usual one ....”my
car always runs hot; what’s the cure?” etc</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">No, this is my very own
original.....</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Background:-</p>
<p><span>1)<span> </span></span>The car, MkII BT7,
has never had overheating issues before today.</p>
<p><span>2)<span> </span></span>It has a new, 12
month, modern design radiator.</p>
<p><span>3)<span> </span></span>It has the correct
type(original design) Smiths sleeved thermostat. (5
years old +/-).</p>
<p><span>4)<span> </span></span>The waterpump was
in the car when I bought the car +/- 25 yrs ago.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Today’s symptoms:- </p>
<p><span>1)<span> </span></span>I took it out to
the pub today and, on returning, I noticed that there
was HEAT and then that the gauge was off the scale.</p>
<p><span>2)<span> </span></span>There was plenty
of coolant in the rad and it didn’t seem overly hot.</p>
<p><span>3)<span> </span></span>I didn’t have much
time, but I got the impression that the rad was not
blowing steam or making more of a “cooling-off noise”
than usual.</p>
<p><span>4)<span> </span></span>I also got the
impression that the engine was hotter than the rad.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Is this typical of a failed water
pump?</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">How can one differentiate between
thermostat issues and waterpump issues?</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Any ideas?<span class="HOEnZb"></span></p>
<span class="HOEnZb">
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon</p>
</span></div>
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