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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
      Modern engines are build to much smaller tolerances and far
      superior finishes and parts are made from other, often better
      materials than in the 50's-70's, mostly introduced by the
      Japanese. These cars do not normally require any running in. These
      engines typically last for 300.000mls plus where the old engines
      struggled to last more than 40.000 to 50.000mls.<br>
      Most of the modern finishes and tolerances are now also used for
      rebuilding older engines so also for these engines running in is
      less of an issue, unless you have a rebuilt from a shop that is
      still using the old methods.<br>
      Thus following running in procedures is a good thing, although
      often not needed, but it is better to be safe than sorry.<br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      <br>
      Op 28-8-2016 om 21:10 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7LKnim+0Rh-FfsRUi55+C-7qE5iX0gH5ereuNTSwqPeBBg@mail.gmail.com"
      type="cite">
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      <div dir="ltr">
        <div class="gmail_default">Jean, although the 2000 RPM for 20
          minutes may be an industry standard on rebuilds I have visited
          a number of new car assembly plants including Viper, Nissan
          and BMW MINI and the cars there are started normally (first
          time for the engine at least in the case of the MINI) and
          casually driven to an inspection area  where they idle for a
          couple of minutes while various systems are checked then to a
          storage area turned off... <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">I'm wondering if "industry standard"
          may be a different way of saying "because that's what my
          mother did".:-)<br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">I have actually run a few engines
          with the side covers off to check the tappet rotation. In most
          cases at least some of the tappets do not rotate and no amount
          of revving or trying to encourage them with long nose pliers
          seems to make any difference. <br>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_default">M<br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
        <div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 1:35 PM, Jean
          Caron <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
              href="mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com"
              target="_blank">vintage_roadster_restoration@hotmail.com</a>></span>
          wrote:<br>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div>
                <p>Talked to a guy that has rebuilt and is still
                  rebuilding a lot of engine and he said that the 2000
                  rpm is an industry standard and is so that the lifters
                  do not only have to go up and down but spin around in
                  their bore. At lower RPM they may not turn enough and
                  it is also not recommended to go above 2000 RPM as the
                  engine is not under load.
                  <br>
                </p>
                <p><br>
                </p>
                <p>Jean<br>
                </p>
                <br>
                <br>
                <div>
                  <hr>
                  <div dir="ltr"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a
                      moz-do-not-send="true"
                      href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
                      target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.<wbr>net</a>>
                    on behalf of Bob Spidell <<a
                      moz-do-not-send="true"
                      href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>
                    <b>Sent:</b> August 28, 2016 2:56 AM<br>
                    <b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                      href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"
                      target="_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>; <a
                      moz-do-not-send="true"
                      href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
                      target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
                    <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Oil
                    <div> </div>
                  </div>
                  <div>
                    <p>"... why the 2000 RPM?"</p>
                    <div>
                      <div class="h5">
                        <p>Good question.  Only explanation I've ever
                          seen is you need plenty of oil splashing
                          around but, as you said, there would be at
                          idle.  I'll take a SWAG that maybe you need
                          some revs to load up the valve springs to
                          apply sufficient pressure to the came lobes
                          and lifters, to 'finish machine' them
                          together.   Sort of like--esp. for aircraft
                          piston engines--you need high BMEP to bed the
                          rings.</p>
                        <p>bs<br>
                        </p>
                        <br>
                        <div>On 8/27/2016 6:21 PM, <a
                            moz-do-not-send="true"
                            href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"
                            target="_blank">
                            michael.salter@gmail.com</a> wrote:<br>
                        </div>
                        <blockquote type="cite">
                          <p dir="auto">I have also always done that, in
                            the belief that the RPM was necessary to
                            ensure that lots of oil was splashing
                            around.<br>
                            However at 10 revolutions per second (600
                            RPM) there has to be tons of oil whizzing
                            around in the crankcase so why the 2000 RPM?<br>
                            M<br>
                          </p>
                          <br>
                          <br>
                          <br>
                          <div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Aug 27, 2016
                            at 8:44 PM -0400, "Bob Spidell" <span
                              dir="ltr">
                              <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
                                target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>></span>
                            wrote:<br>
                            <br>
                            <blockquote class="gmail_quote">
                              <div dir="3D"ltr"">
                                <pre>Thanks, Kees.

I'm hearing/reading everywhere that the proper procedure for bedding-in 
cams and lifters is to run at 2,000 RPM give-or-take for 20 minutes.

bs


On 8/27/2016 11:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing 
> surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first 
> start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than 
> idle the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed 
> and load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the 
> prescribed oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and 
> filled up with fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate 
> loads, oil and filter change after which speed and load were gradually 
> increased until about 5000miles before full speed and load were 
> applied. After a rebuild I never encountered any other wear issues on 
> any engine. Some engines did more than 250.000 miles after that. The 
> only thing that wore were the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and 
> valves/seats.
> This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a 
> different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never 
> went beyond the original procedure.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:
>>
>> Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long thread 
>> on the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from you):
>>
>> <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?105991-Very-interesting-very-long-blog-posting-racing-oil-and-zinc" target="_blank">http://www.britishcarforum.<wbr>com/bcf/showthread.php?105991-<wbr>Very-interesting-very-long-<wbr>blog-posting-racing-oil-and-<wbr>zinc</a>
>>
>> This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:
>>
>> <a moz-do-not-send="true" href="http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3266544-zinc-myth-and-test-data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html" target="_blank">http://www.corvetteforum.com/<wbr>forums/c3-tech-performance/<wbr>3266544-zinc-myth-and-test-<wbr>data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html</a>
>>
>> This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's 
>> engine in the near future.  I've run it on off-the-shelf dino 
>> 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K 
>> miles so it will be interesting to see what the internals look like 
>> now (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has caused 
>> in the intake system).  #2 has low compression and we'll see if cam 
>> lobe wear is the cause.
>>
>> Agree with Chris on the cam lube.  I bought a bunch of GM EOS 
>> assembly lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down the 
>> pushrod tubes before first startup.  Thoughts (of course, I'll use 
>> assembly lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?
>>
>> Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which they 
>> say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated 
>> internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes.  I'll probably 
>> also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom to 
>> supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.
>>
>> I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on 
>> engine assembly and break-in.  I'm going all-in on this 
>> rebuild--it'll be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants a 
>> friend of his who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work ($$$).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>

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-- 
<div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></i>

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