<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Hey guys. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">2 quick suggestions. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">1. The best way to find an oil leak. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Degrease engine, hose off with water. Kiss your wife, as she heads off to the shops. Wave, smile. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Start engine to warm it up. Duck up inside, grab her hairdryer and talcum powder*. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Use hairdryer to ensure suspect leak area is dry. Apply talcum powder. Apply liberally, shaking from highest point. Restart engine and wipe fingerprints off hairdryer and talc. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Run until hot. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Have a beer, then inspect the leak suspect area. Follow the oiled talc to the highest point on the engine. You'll be surprised how talc shows so many leaks are actually e.g. Rocker cover gasket, rather than side plate gasket. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">*If you're single, you can just use flour. Your Mum will have some. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">2. Anneal copper washers. </div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Here's a good explanation:</div><div id="AppleMailSignature"><a href="http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers">http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference/annealling-copper-aluminium-washers</a></div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Best</div><div id="AppleMailSignature">Chris<br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On 5 Apr 2016, at 7:26 AM, Peter & Veronica <<a href="mailto:greylinn@ozemail.com.au">greylinn@ozemail.com.au</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite">
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<div>G’day Simon</div>
<div> </div>
<div>When I've had that problem with carb banjos, first I've faced either side
of the banjo on fine wet & dry on a sheet of glass. I have tried annealing
copper washers with a small propane torch, but it's easy to end up with a blob
of copper! When all else fails, I use blue Hylomar sealant.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Cheers</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Peter</div>
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<div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a title="simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk">Simon Lachlan</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 4, 2016 11:56 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">'Healey List'</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Oil seeping from distributor
tower</div></div></div>
</div></div></div></blockquote><br><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Calibri'; COLOR: #000000"><div style="FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline"><div> .....<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">It’s
the banjo where the bolt holds the oil feed pipe to the distributor tower. I
guess that rules out all you non-mechanical drive tacho guys???</span></div></div><div style="FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline"><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Anyhow, I took the bolt out and found a copper washer on
either side of the union. Much as I’d expected. These washers looked pretty
tired so I replaced them. Made no difference. I could get another half turn once
the engine had warmed up, but it still seeped......</p></div></div></div></div></blockquote></body></html>