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<DIV>...if using the spare nut idea, cut 3 slots in the inner circumference (ie
through the threads) – it will work better as a thread cleaner that way.</DIV>
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<DIV>Cheers</DIV>
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<DIV>Peter</DIV>
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<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=rrengineer.mike@att.net
href="mailto:rrengineer.mike@att.net">rrengineer.mike</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, March 17, 2016 12:49 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=phoenix722@comcast.net
href="mailto:phoenix722@comcast.net">Mike</A> ; <A title=healeys@autox.team.net
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">Healey List</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel nut</DIV></DIV></DIV>
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<DIV>Everyone has been very helpful with the thread problem. If it
was just a fastener I could replace it, but such a nice smooth working steering
box is kinda rare. The beating the thread back into shape is the method that
appeals to my mechanical designer background. Of course just running a nut
back and forth would be quickest. Just want to be careful as holding the
steering wheel in place is kind of important. Very nice to have this depth and
wealth of knowledge on tap. Thanks everyone.</DIV>
<DIV>Mike MacLean</DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 85%; COLOR: #575757">Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S® 5, an
AT&T 4G LTE smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR><BR>-------- Original message
--------<BR>From: Mike <phoenix722@comcast.net> <BR>Date: 3/16/2016 7:16
PM (GMT-08:00) <BR>To: Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net> <BR>Subject:
Re: [Healeys] Steering wheel nut <BR><BR>I've also had luck just running the nut
down snug, maybe adding a little <BR>light oil, and then backing off a tad,
retightening a tad plus, and <BR>repeat. This gets rid of the little
pieces of metal without gouging the <BR>remainder.
Patience.<BR><BR>Mike<BR><BR>On 3/16/2016 5:30 PM, J. Armour wrote:<BR>> When
I was a young trainee engineer an old bloke showed me that to<BR>> clean-up a
damaged thread by hand screw on a nut until it would not<BR>> continue and
then tap all sides of the hexagon sides of the nut while<BR>> applying torque
to turn the nut. Slowly continuing this will reshape<BR>> damaged thread
without removing metal which is what the cutting process of<BR>> the die nut
will do. The amount of metal in a thread form is easily<BR>> reworked if the
nut will start on a previously well formed thread..<BR>> Biggest risk is
black and bruised fingers!<BR>> This is a crude form of roll forming a thread
and we all know rolled<BR>> threads are much stronger and better than cut
threads.<BR>> Joe<BR>><BR>> On 17/03/16 10:36 AM, "Healeys on behalf of
Per Schoerner"<BR>> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net on behalf of
per@schoerner.se> wrote:<BR>><BR>>> Hi<BR>>> Use a thread
file, could also be called a thread restorer, instead. If<BR>>> you run a
die or a nut over them you risk to damage the threads even
more.<BR>>><BR>>> Per<BR>>><BR>>> Den 2016-03-16 kl.
20:26, skrev John Vrugtman:<BR>>>> I had a similar problem with mine,
Bruce Philips told me to buy two nuts<BR>>>> and use one to clean up
the threads, worked great.<BR>>>><BR>>>> John<BR>>>>
64/66 BJ8s<BR>>>><BR>>>> On 3/16/2016 2:54 PM, rrengineer.mike
wrote:<BR>>>>> Does anyone know the thread size for the steering
wheel nut. The<BR>>>>> threads on the shaft of my BN2 column are a
little buggered up and I<BR>>>>> would like to run a die over them.
The nut just engages the shafts<BR>>>>> less than a full turn
now.<BR>>>>> Mike MacLean<BR>>>
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