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    I've wondered if one of these could do it: <b><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://tinyurl.com/h3h7rcz">http://tinyurl.com/h3h7rcz</a></b><br>
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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/7/2016 9:21 PM, Ron Fine wrote:<br>
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          <div>If the solid rivets don’t work out, you might try using a
            pop rivet that is solid on the bottom.  From the bottom they
            look like a solid rivet.  I then put a dab of filler in the
            small hole on top and smoothed it off with my finger. 
            Unless you looked really hard, it would be difficult to tell
            them from the original solid rivets after painting.  </div>
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          <div>Ron </div>
          <div>61BN7</div>
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                <div style="font-color: black"><b>From:</b> <a
                    moz-do-not-send="true"
                    title="michael.salter@gmail.com"
                    href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com">Michael</a> </div>
                <div><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, January 07, 2016 7:20 PM</div>
                <div><b>To:</b> <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                    title="bce257@yahoo.co.nz"
                    href="mailto:bce257@yahoo.co.nz">Andy Thorp</a> ; <a
                    moz-do-not-send="true"
                    title="healeys@autox.team.net"
                    href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a></a>
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                <div><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Trunk/boot lip rivets</div>
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              <div style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY:
                calibri,sans-serif">I have had success using a pair of
                Vicegrip  "C" pliers.<br>
                They have sufficient squeeze power to set those rivers
                but smacking the jaws with a hammer makes sure.<br>
                Best to use a small nut and bolt in the adjacent hole to
                pull the the parts together.<br>
                <br>
                Michael S<br>
                BN1 #174</div>
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              <span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY:
                calibri,sans-serif; FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From: </span><span
                style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,sans-serif"><a
                  moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:bce257@yahoo.co.nz">Andy Thorp</a></span><br>
              <span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY:
                calibri,sans-serif; FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent: </span><span
                style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,sans-serif">‎7/‎01/‎2016
                10:14 p.m.</span><br>
              <span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY:
                calibri,sans-serif; FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To: </span><span
                style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,sans-serif"><a
                  moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a></a></span><br>
              <span style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY:
                calibri,sans-serif; FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject: </span><span
                style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: calibri,sans-serif">[Healeys]
                Trunk/boot lip rivets</span><br>
              <br>
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            Hi Guys,<br>
            <br>
            Has anyone come up with a way of installing the original
            solid rivets into the lip boot opening lip? The ones that
            you can't get anything up inside the chassis frame to buck
            the rivets.<br>
            <br>
            I've seen some people using pop rivets and so on but I'd
            rather use the correct type if there is any way to tighten
            them up<br>
            <br>
            Andy.<br>
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