<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Andy,<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Some more information.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I used Spae Naur 286-011 flat head rivets <a href="http://www.spaenaur.com/catalog/#E4">http://www.spaenaur.com/catalog/#E4</a> and Vicegrip 11R pliers <img class="" src="http://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z0ywp_fo5oy.JPG" title="Locking C-Clamp, 11 in., 2-5/8 in. Throat" alt="IRWIN VISE-GRIP - Locking C-Clamp, 11 in., 2-5/8 in. Throat"><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I flattened the faces of the jaws a little with a grinder to prevent the original rounded ends from slipping off the rivet.<br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I've probably done 20 cars this way......Kiwi ingenuity.....Easy as!!<br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 3:58 PM, Andy Thorp <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:bce257@yahoo.co.nz" target="_blank">bce257@yahoo.co.nz</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Thanks for the replies, I have a few ideas to try now.<br>
<br>
First is to try one of the pneumatic aircraft riveters, the reason I didn't consider this previously is that I had misunderstood how they are supposed to work. I thought the cupped setter was to make the rivet stem rounded once installed but this isn't right. For the flat head rivets, they are driven from the headed side and bucked on the stem, rather than putting the buck on the head and driving the hammer into the stem to secure it. There may be room to get one of the narrow bucks inside the trunk lip so that will be the first attempt. This video helps explain things a bit <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM</a><br>
<br>
Second attempt is to make a set of squeezer pliers out of C-type vise grip pliers and weld on some flat ends to squeeze up the rivets, perhaps with some percussive assistance.<br>
<span class=""><br>
<br>
"The real question comes down to<br>
is it work a couple hundred dollars to be “historically<br>
correct” for a few rivets? Only you can make that<br>
decision. "<br>
<br>
</span>It isn't so much a matter of being historically correct, it is more a case of having to look at something for the next forty odd years and wish I'd taken a little more time to do it properly that one day back in 2016. The square headed rivets look very purposeful.<br>
<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><br>
Andy.<br>
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
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