<div dir="ltr">Try what I suggested: coarse sand paper gasket under the shock. The bolt connection is a friction-bend. To increase its power, You either increase the held down force, OR increase the surface coeficient. The sand paper does this.<div>We had hard times with Mini shock mount plates. Finally the sand paper gasket solved the problem (even K+D gluing came of).<br><div><br></div><div>gergo</div></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">2016-01-06 18:04 GMT+01:00 Michael Salter <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>></span>:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I should mention that in addition to the small plates on the surface of the shock ears with the bolt heads welded to them I also borrowed a little bit of 100S technology for AHX12 and made up some small plates with a "V" shaped notch that fitted tightly onto the edges of the shock ears. These were welded onto the surface of the shock mount. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Despite all these efforts I still found that "heavy landings" then broke the ears off the shocks!!!<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The final solution was a little more radical. <a href="http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=87" target="_blank">http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=87</a><br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 1:17 PM, Michael Salter <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Probably more work than most people would want to undertake but, because for competition work I found that washers eventually dig into the ears, I cut a "washer" the same shape as the shock "ear" out of 3/16" steel plate and then put the bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my "washer". <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">This method has the added advantage that you don't need to hold the bolt head while tightening the nut.<br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div><div>On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:healeybruce@roadrunner.com" target="_blank">healeybruce@roadrunner.com</a>></span> wrote:<br></div></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div><div link="#0563C1" vlink="#954F72" lang="EN-US"><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif">Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight. They work loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my annual maintenance. I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split washers. Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better) than the grade 8. Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted about them on this list. They loosened more quickly than split washers. Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than split washers. <u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif">Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif"><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Bruce Steele<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">Brea, CA<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Trebuchet MS",sans-serif;color:#1f497d">1960 BN7<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p></div></div><br></div></div><span>_______________________________________________<br>
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<br></blockquote></div><span><font color="#888888"><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
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