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As Mike Salter mentions, it is not a question of nuts working
loose, so tab washers and security wire won't help much. The
material is deforming thus creating play, not because the nut/bolt
is turning. When working with aluminium alloy it is always
important to have the mating face of the body machined, a large
hardened and machined washer is fitted and tight fitting grade 8
or higher bolt and nuts are used. <br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
Op 6-1-2016 om 9:00 schreef Alan Seigrist:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Larry - wow, best solution I heard yet. Especially
if this plate rest flush against the bottoms of side of the
mount plate. You could then lock the bolts with a nut against
the threaded plate after it is tightened. Elegant. <br>
<br>
I was half thinking to make a tab washer connected to both
bolts, and security wire the bolts together, but I think your
solution makes much more sense.<br>
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<div>- Alan</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry
Varley <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au" target="_blank">varley@cosmos.net.au</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">While my comment didn't
mention Mike Salter's contribution to the discussion, and
have seen the quality of Mike's work over many years, I
have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where
this situation gets worse, as has been mentioned, is when
the holes in the mount plate get worn oval. It occurred to
me that some enterprising person could devise a 3/8 thick
plate with 2 tapped holes that would sit on the inside the
the mounting plate and replace the nuts. It could locate
in its soundings and be an easy retrofit to existing cars,
without any welding involved, or could be welded in during
a restoration. Just a thought for what it may or may not
be worth.<br>
Cheers<br>
Larry Varley.<span class=""><br>
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