<html>
<head>
<meta content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
Just occurred to me the best solution would be to weld the nuts to
the backside of the mount (and use threadlocker on the bolt).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:03B15EC2-1D8F-46F9-9D63-34172F1DD099@gmail.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<div>Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come
loose unless exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on
race car prep are very down on split lock washers as the authors
feel that the bolt has too loosen before the lock washer digs
in. They much prefer using Loctite, new locking nuts or if that
is not adequate drilled and safety wired hardware. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Personally I think if you are going
to go with lock washers go full Brit style. Bolt, lock washer,
flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lock washer,
nut. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">If you use Loctite the surfaces must
be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust, no crud built up in the
threads. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray the bolt and
nut with brake clean just before assembly to make sure
everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. When
properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt
(I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you
need. </div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">Rick</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature"><br>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>