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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body bgcolor=white lang=EN-GB link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Couldn’t agree more. At one stage, I had an inline fuse for the overdrive which, being by the fusebox, was easy to find. The red(?) wire for rear lights was under the dash and would have been a tricky search.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>When I bought the car, the wiring was sound but had been fairly messed around by an over enthusiastic and under talented PO. Took me a while to find all the “improvenents”.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Now, I’ve got one of those 7 (I think) way fuseboxes that screw in where our 2 way ones went. Excellent device.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Also, an MGB 4-way box on other side for the lights. It looks “period” and fairly inoffensive. All wiring backed up by pdf files inserted into my BMC workshop manual* with a hard copy in the “owner’s handbook”, carried in the car.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoListParagraph><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>*Get a pdf of the manual and break the security code. Then you can add your own notes and additions as you go along. It, over the years, becomes an increasingly useful tool.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoListParagraph><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext'>From:</span></b><span lang=EN-US style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif";color:windowtext'> Healeys [<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Oudesluys<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 20, 2015 8:47<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] fuse box<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>In-line fuses. If that means literally what it says it is a fuse just in the existing wire. Not a good idea as only you may know where it is. Subsequent owners may have to search or guess. There are also quite a few classic cars that have these in-line fuses strewn around the car behind the upholstery and other parts from new, where nobody can normally find them. That is why I prefer the fuse/relays box. It means rerouteing some wiring (and strictly sticking to the colour codes) but you have all the fuses and/or relays in one spot convenient for inspection, just like the original fuse box with two or three fuses.<br>However do not position that box under the dash like in many modern cars but somewhere easily accessible under the bonnet in a watertight box.<br>Kees Oudesluijs<br><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>