<html><head></head><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 14px; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; "><div>Hey Gary, some of those sentiments are a bit radical!!!</div><div><br></div><div>I have been riding on Lucas power for 49plus years and Joseph usually got me home. Biggest issue was not the components but the quality and age of the wiring insulation. I still remember the big fat collection of exposed copper wires exiting the cockpit through the firewall grommet. Back in 1967 I replaced wires basically one at a time with modern insulated wires to match the colour code as best possible. The bullet end fittings and soldering were the hard bit. I was alerted to this problem when the wipers, lights and horn all worked at the same time.</div><div><br></div><div>Another memory of the robust nature of Joseph and his many parts was I left the cover off the battery in the BN.4 and had the trunk well loaded. Cresting a hill on the NO.1 national hwy it all went black in the middle of the night when at speed. Thinking quick I knew that the safety device was the ON/OFF switch in the trunk. I isolated the battery and saw the offending metal rod direct shorting out the battery, simple ,grab it and remove the problem. The burn marks took weeks to disappear but as soon as I turn the ON/OFF switch back on all Joseph's parts worked as per normal.</div><div><br></div><div>The biggest mod the 'Works" cars had was two circuits, ie left and right hand side to lighting as accident damage was the most likely cause of blown fuses from shorting out</div><div><br></div><div>Joe</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><span id="OLK_SRC_BODY_SECTION"><div style="font-family:Calibri; font-size:11pt; text-align:left; color:black; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #b5c4df 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-TOP: 3pt"><span style="font-weight:bold">From: </span> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of <<a href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com">warthodson@aol.com</a>><br><span style="font-weight:bold">Date: </span> Friday, 18 December 2015 12:45 PM<br><span style="font-weight:bold">To: </span> <<a href="mailto:e-wilkins@cox.net">e-wilkins@cox.net</a>><br><span style="font-weight:bold">Cc: </span> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><span style="font-weight:bold">Subject: </span> Re: [Healeys] Fwd: New Classic Technologies Fuse Box<br></div><div><br></div><font color="black" size="2" face="arial"><div>Yes, I agree. But that is how I feel about adding all these silly components to a well maintained system. If the system is not in good condition then adding fuses & relays & extra circuits to protect against various forms of electrical failures is not a good approach. It would be better to spend the time & money on restoring/repairing the original system. I will admit that my primary objection is that about 80% of the "improved" wiring systems I have seen were poorly executed, used poor or no wire color coding and left many of the underlying problems uncorrected. </div><div>Gary </div><div> </div><div> </div></font></span></body></html>