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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-GB link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>I have a 6 branch stainless exhaust setup on my MkII 3000.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I hope that I can make myself clear......<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-18.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>1)<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>The carbs and exhaust system are on the workshop floor.....<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-18.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>2)<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>Imagine that you’re looking into the engine compartment, looking at the “Gasket, manifolds to head” (the silver gasket that goes between the manifolds and the head).<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-18.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>3)<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>The top RHS & LHS studs are shared by the inlet and exhaust manifolds so they are held down into the gasket by the same bolts and washers.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph style='text-indent:-18.0pt;mso-list:l0 level1 lfo1'><![if !supportLists]><span style='mso-list:Ignore'>4)<span style='font:7.0pt "Times New Roman"'> </span></span><![endif]>Therefore, both manifolds need to be the same thickness or they don’t get the same pressure metal to gasket and the shallower side will leak.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Well, mine aren’t the same thickness. The exhaust manifold has been ground down at the tip/corner which is covered by the washer under the bolt. (Presumably in the manufacturing process.) First time I put the 6 branch on, it was fine for about 1,000 miles then it started to blow under that bolt/washer. (Cooking the temperature sender pipe, but otherwise just a little noise. Nothing serious).<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>I took off the rear carb and leant the exhaust away from the engine.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph> I then sliced off the section off the gasket which covered that area and replaced it with a portion off a new gasket.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>I put a half washer (shim?) under the main washer on the exhaust side of that stud. This took up the difference in width and all was well.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Now, I have it all on the floor and am looking for a better fix. Some form of plastic metal springs to mind.....Clean up the area on the exhaust manifold. Apply the gloop. Let it cure and file it flat.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Is there a product out there that will a) really stand the heat ie support the manufacturer’s claims and b) allow itself to be filed so thin that it doesn’t flake off???<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Abro Thermometal High Temp metal....<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>VersaChem Exhaust Joint...<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>QuickSteel Thermostell Exhaust Repair Kit<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>JB Weld, but that’s reputedly no good at very high temperatures. (Goes white & breaks up).<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>My research so far has let me to the above. I remain however deeply suspicious of miracle cures which come in little pots or tubes. What do you think?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Of course, I could put the half washer back on..<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Or, I could have someone weld a blob onto that corner and file that flat. Would weld peel off if it was that thin? (.33mm+/-)<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoListParagraph>Simon<o:p></o:p></p></div></body></html>