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<div>It's a good idea. My BN7 has become almost impossible. To drive in the summer except at speed on highways. Vapor lock is a huge problem although my fuel lines are not all that close to the manifold, coming into the front of the SU's via a regulator.</div>
<div id="AppleMailSignature">I have a shield I hope to put on soon to help. Fall winter and spring days are no issue.<br>
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Regards,
<div>Richard C</div>
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On Nov 19, 2015, at 11:43, "<a href="mailto:ATIGHTPROD@aol.com">ATIGHTPROD@aol.com</a>" <<a href="mailto:ATIGHTPROD@aol.com">ATIGHTPROD@aol.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>Heat and this ethanol fuel is a definite problem with my BN1 and I'm sure the same happens with BN2's also and from what Keith is saying, it seems to also affect six cylinder folks as well. From what I heard, a lower boiling point for the fuel has a lot
to do with why the "vapor lock" symptoms occur. </div>
<div>This is how I solved my problem with that happening while stuck in traffic, starting up after sitting for a short time after a hot run, etc.</div>
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<div id="role_caption" style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">This is a marine bilge fan I got off ebay, painted flat black and wired in next to my radiator for easy removal and no holes drilled. 3" flex off both sides, front goes to right behind grille
and sucks cold air in. Rear goes right to front float bowl.</div>
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<div id="role_caption" style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Better view of install. Simple. My car is a driver and I had a terrible time with these new fuels, so the sight of the install doesn't bother me as it solved all those problems.</div>
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<div>The 3" flex is bent and pulled right to the float bowl. If I sit, I turn the fan on from a switch inside the cockpit and let it run for about 30 seconds before firing up and now problem. When stuck in traffic, flick the switch and instant cold air stops
vapor lock. When going down the road, flip the switch and the fan turns off. </div>
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<div>Steven Kingsbury</div>
<div>BN1 #598</div>
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<div>In a message dated 11/15/2015 8:15:42 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, <a href="mailto:mottman55@gmail.com">
mottman55@gmail.com</a> writes:</div>
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<div dir="ltr">This is a really interesting survey, but what about paint? I have a set of mild steel headers that I plan to put on a bugeye I'm restoring. I don't really want to leave them bare, and I was planning on painting them with high-temp paint.
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<div>On a slightly different note, my experience with heat and rough running in my BT7 is exactly the same as Bob's. I have come to accept that it is 'normal' behavior for these cars although I've always wondered about wrapping the the exhaust manifold to
decrease the heat load on the carbs. </div>
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<div>Keith <br>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 15, 2015 at 3:11 AM, Simon Lachlan <span dir="ltr">
<<a title="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div lang="EN-GB" link="blue" vlink="purple">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have stainless headers going down into a big bore(?) exhaust.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Opinions seem to vary as to the merits of wrapping, coating or doing nothing to them .<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have Webers above them, but I suspect, in my ignorance, that these are maybe less prone to evaporation issues than SUs.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">What does the panel think?<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">See attached for a well researched synopsis. (Not by me!)<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><u></u><u></u></font></span></p>
<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon<u></u><u></u></p>
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