<html><body><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>Forgot to mention, this stuff needs to be heat-cured. I use a propane torch with a spreader attachment. When you heat it, you can see it going from wet and glossy to dry and 'matte' finished.<br></div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div><div style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 12pt; color: #000000"><div>I CAN recommend this stuff: <b>http://tinyurl.com/q2z9tod</b><br></div><div><br></div><div>Can be sprayed on bare metal (no priming needed) and holds up better than paint.<br></div><div><br></div><div>Bob<br></div><div><br></div><hr id="zwchr"><div style="color:#000;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br><div><br></div><div dir="ltr">This is a really interesting survey, but what about paint? I have a set of mild steel headers that I plan to put on a bugeye I'm restoring. I don't really want to leave them bare, and I was planning on painting them with high-temp paint.<div><br></div><div>On a slightly different note, my experience with heat and rough running in my BT7 is exactly the same as Bob's. I have come to accept that it is 'normal' behavior for these cars although I've always wondered about wrapping the the exhaust manifold to decrease the heat load on the carbs. </div><div><br></div><div>Keith <br><div class="gmail_quote"><br></div></div></div></div></div><div><br></div><br><div><br></div></div><div><br></div></div></body></html>