<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Bob,<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">In my experience the Girling servo units can be very difficult to rebuild satisfactorily. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The symptoms that you describe are however more indicative of air in the system than those typical of servo difficulties. <br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If the servo is not working properly the typical symptoms are no servo action at all or brakes dragging and/or locking on.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">To check the servo action pump the brake pedal several times with the engine not running then, with pressure on the brake pedal, start the engine and the pedal should drop a little as manifold vacuum is established. If the pedal drops the servo is working.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The other problem is evident when you drive the car.. First the brake pedal will become quite "hard" and there will be no "free play" at the top of its stroke next the brakes will get very hot and eventually the car will stop moving because the brakes are locked on..<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The usual cause of that problem is the failure of the large piston within the servo unit to return fully to its rest position when the brakes are released. That is where the "thinner sponge" thing comes in. The correct solution is to have the inside of the servo "chest" re-coated with a special slippery coating. There should be more information on that way back in the archives.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hope that helps,<br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174 <br>(4 wheel drum brakes ..no servo)<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 20, 2015 at 6:24 PM, R. Cobb <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:rcobb@earthlink.net" target="_blank">rcobb@earthlink.net</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Unit was rebuilt using kit from Moss.<br>
<br>
Symptoms, following bleeding hydraulic brake system (no differences noted whether car running or not): On first try of brakes, nearly no braking, with pedal going almost to floor.<br>
<br>
Second try, sometimes a release is felt in the pedal (with an associated, slight "pop" sound) with a bit more braking and less travel of pedal. By the third try, the pedal travel seems more normal, and the braking is improved, though not up to the level expected.<br>
<br>
The above pattern has been replicated numerous times, with the thinking that perhaps if something were binding, it would work-in. No such luck.<br>
<br>
Any thoughts?<br>
<br>
I recall that some months ago a contributor mentioned having had to install a thinner sponge rubber ring for under the piston seal...because of binding(?). Could this be the issue? Would this result in the behavior I'm experiencing?<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
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</blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
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