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    I've had similar symptoms with a failed 'foot valve'--the little
    seal that lets fluid into the MC from the reservoir which should
    close when you apply pedal.<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/2015 2:02 PM, David Porter
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote cite="mid:5627FD48.20302@porterscustom.com" type="cite">
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      Call Tim or Martin at Power Brake in CA 408-292-01305 helpful
      folks..<br>
      Dave<br>
      GT6+<br>
      <br>
      <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/21/2015 2:39 PM, Michael Salter
        wrote:<br>
      </div>
      <blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7LK8cse-n7RR8SqyXSwFj3WzE3th4YiJoOmNw_eG592Giw@mail.gmail.com"
        type="cite">
        <div dir="ltr">
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hi Bob,<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">In my experience the Girling
            servo units can be very difficult to rebuild satisfactorily.
            <br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The symptoms that you
            describe are however more indicative of air in the system
            than those typical of servo difficulties. <br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If the servo is not working
            properly the typical symptoms are no servo action at all or
            brakes dragging and/or locking on.<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">To check the servo action
            pump the brake pedal several times with the engine not
            running then,  with pressure on the brake pedal, start the
            engine and the pedal should drop a little as manifold vacuum
            is established. If the pedal drops the servo is working.<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The other problem is evident
            when you drive the car.. First the brake pedal will become
            quite "hard" and there will be no "free play" at the top of
            its stroke next the brakes will get very hot and eventually
            the car will stop moving because the brakes are locked on..<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The usual cause of that
            problem is the failure of the large piston within the servo
            unit to return fully to its rest position when the brakes
            are released. That is where the "thinner sponge" thing comes
            in. The correct solution is to have the inside of the servo
            "chest" re-coated with a special slippery coating. There
            should be more information on that way back in the archives.<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Hope that helps,<br>
            <br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174 <br>
            (4 wheel drum brakes ..no servo)<br>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
            ms,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
            <br>
          </div>
        </div>
        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Oct 20, 2015 at 6:24 PM, R.
            Cobb <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:rcobb@earthlink.net" target="_blank">rcobb@earthlink.net</a>></span>
            wrote:<br>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
              .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Unit was
              rebuilt using kit from Moss.<br>
              <br>
              Symptoms, following bleeding hydraulic brake system (no
              differences noted whether car running or not): On first
              try of brakes, nearly no braking, with pedal going almost
              to floor.<br>
              <br>
              Second try, sometimes a release is felt in the pedal (with
              an associated, slight "pop" sound) with a bit more braking
              and less travel of pedal.  By the third try, the pedal
              travel seems more normal, and the braking is improved,
              though not up to the level expected.<br>
              <br>
              The above pattern has been replicated numerous times, with
              the thinking that perhaps if something were binding, it
              would work-in. No such luck.<br>
              <br>
              Any thoughts?<br>
              <br>
              I recall that some months ago a contributor mentioned
              having had to install a thinner sponge rubber ring for
              under the piston seal...because of binding(?).  Could this
              be the issue?  Would this result in the behavior I'm
              experiencing?<br>
              <br>
              Thanks in advance.<br>
              <br>
              Bob<br>
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          <br clear="all">
          <br>
          -- <br>
          <div class="gmail_signature">
            <div dir="ltr">
              <div>
                <div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span
                        style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a
                        hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br>
                  <br>
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      <br>
      <div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
        Dave Porter Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque,
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