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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Michael,<br>
<br>
I understand your concerns but I do not think you have to worry as
the capacitor is on the gauge terminals, the voltage remains 12V
max. and the current is depending on the resistor in the fuel
gauge sender and gauge itself, both resistors are fairly high so
the current will be low with not more risk of sparking compared to
the original system that can theoretically spark as well in the
potentiometer of the sender. <br>
The capacitor is just there to reduce the violent differences in
voltage across the gauge terminals<br>
Anyway a capacitor is supposed to reduce sparking, as with the
capacitor across the distributor points.<br>
<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 26-8-2015 om 18:01 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7LJJM8i_GL1XTRWt+qdrbxVB+xGtU+z+36Odm4e+0YECDA@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
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<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">Kees,<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">I would have to disagree with your
recommendation of adding a capacitor to the circuit to try to
stabilize the needle on any fuel gauge system as has been
mentioned previously on this list.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Capacitors are energy storage devices
and the sudden discharge of that energy creates sparks. <br>
A fuel tank is normally filled with a mixture of fuel vapour
and air. Certainly the ratio of air to fuel vapour has to be
correct for an explosion to occur (around 6% vapour) but,
should it be within the correct range which I agree is fairly
unlikely, and the capacitor choose to discharge the
consequences would be, shall we say, unfortunate. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Entirely up to you but I certainly
don't like the idea and would definitely not recommend it.. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7:49 AM,
Oudesluys <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl" target="_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div>
<div>If a sender is not working properly it may be that a
wrong type is fitted with a float lever rod that is to
short, to long or bend in the wrong way. If it is to
short the dial will indicate the full range from empty
to full while the tank is not full when it reads empty
correctly or the other way around. If the lever rod is
to long the dial will not read its full scale indicating
partially full when full and/or partially full when
empty. Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy
operation but needs some experimenting and a dead level
floor.<br>
Also a bend lever may lead to faulty readings similar to
those above.<br>
<br>
On the early coil type gauges you can fit a big
capacitor to counteract more or less the continuous
restless moving about of the needle which you do not
have on the later bi-metal gauges that give a steady
reading.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 26-8-2015 om 13:27 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<div class="h5">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">Actually a Healey fuel
gauge can be made to work very accurately. The
gauge in my 100 is as steady as a rock and a
very accurate indicator of the tank contents.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">The only change I made
was to add a tiny connecting link between the
float arm and the body of the gauge sender as in
the attached pic.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Prior to doing this I
had no idea that a gauge of this type could work
so well.<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at
1:18 AM, John Spaur <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net"
target="_blank"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net">jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net</a></a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">Yes! Will you
ever be able to adjust it so it works even
remotely close to<br>
accurate? I don't think so. There are many
posts covering issues with the<br>
fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender
were "calibrated" by a couple<br>
of shops. The sender is a restored original.
Afterwards, it would still<br>
stick on full, then when over half a tank was
used it would drop to 1/2,<br>
then 1/4 and stop.<br>
<br>
I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little
more success than the<br>
professionals, using the calibration unit in
this link:<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm</a>
BTW, I pulled the sender out of<br>
the car and calibrated it on the bench. You
will need to approximate the<br>
high and low limits which are determined by
the depth of the petrol tank.<br>
<br>
Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I
believe the problem is caused by<br>
how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with
the armature. The fuel gauge<br>
needle is connected to the armature and swings
based on the magnetic current<br>
supplied by the sending unit. Over the years
the coils have tilted and<br>
cannot be properly aligned with the armature
when the nut is tightened. This<br>
throws off the adjustment.<br>
<br>
Let me know how it goes.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
John Spaur<br>
'62 BT7<br>
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<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it
with a hammer, you've got an
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-- <br>
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<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you've got an electrical problem.</span></i><br>
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