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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">If a sender is not working properly it
may be that a wrong type is fitted with a float lever rod that is
to short, to long or bend in the wrong way. If it is to short the
dial will indicate the full range from empty to full while the
tank is not full when it reads empty correctly or the other way
around. If the lever rod is to long the dial will not read its
full scale indicating partially full when full and/or partially
full when empty. Lengthening or shortening is a fairly easy
operation but needs some experimenting and a dead level floor.<br>
Also a bend lever may lead to faulty readings similar to those
above.<br>
<br>
On the early coil type gauges you can fit a big capacitor to
counteract more or less the continuous restless moving about of
the needle which you do not have on the later bi-metal gauges that
give a steady reading.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Op 26-8-2015 om 13:27 schreef Michael Salter:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7L+TRi-USbTTG6pC1ERbUA-AZAWetXeGZDTO1uvm8EU8fg@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
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<div class="gmail_default">Actually a Healey fuel gauge can be
made to work very accurately. The gauge in my 100 is as steady
as a rock and a very accurate indicator of the tank contents.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">The only change I made was to add a
tiny connecting link between the float arm and the body of the
gauge sender as in the attached pic.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Prior to doing this I had no idea
that a gauge of this type could work so well.<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">BN1 #174<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 1:18 AM, John
Spaur <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net" target="_blank">jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">Yes! Will you ever be able to
adjust it so it works even remotely close to<br>
accurate? I don't think so. There are many posts covering
issues with the<br>
fuel gauge and tank unit. My gauge and sender were
"calibrated" by a couple<br>
of shops. The sender is a restored original. Afterwards, it
would still<br>
stick on full, then when over half a tank was used it would
drop to 1/2,<br>
then 1/4 and stop.<br>
<br>
I finally calibrated my gauge, with a little more success
than the<br>
professionals, using the calibration unit in this link:<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm"
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm</a>
BTW, I pulled the sender out of<br>
the car and calibrated it on the bench. You will need to
approximate the<br>
high and low limits which are determined by the depth of the
petrol tank.<br>
<br>
Be warned, it still is almost fruitless. I believe the
problem is caused by<br>
how the fuel gauge T and B coils line up with the armature.
The fuel gauge<br>
needle is connected to the armature and swings based on the
magnetic current<br>
supplied by the sending unit. Over the years the coils have
tilted and<br>
cannot be properly aligned with the armature when the nut is
tightened. This<br>
throws off the adjustment.<br>
<br>
Let me know how it goes.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
<br>
John Spaur<br>
'62 BT7<br>
<div class="HOEnZb">
<div class="h5"><br>
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<br>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you've got an electrical problem.</span></i><br>
<br>
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