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    Mike is quite right here, if your lucky enough to have an old brake
    drum, cutting a section out of it so you can see the shoe contact
    with the drum makes this much easier.<br>
    Cheers<br>
    Larry Varley<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/07/2015 11:04 AM, Michael wrote:<br>
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        <div style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Another
          important operation when it comes to drum brakes is the
          importance of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If
          these rests are not adjusted so that the shoes are contacting
          the drums straight on it is impossible to get a hard pedal.<br>
          <br>
          Michael S</div>
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        <hr><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size:
          11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span
          style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a
            moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au">Larry
            Varley</a></span><br>
        <span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
          font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style="font-family:
          Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">‎4/‎07/‎2015 8:28 p.m.</span><br>
        <span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
          font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style="font-family:
          Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a
            moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a></span><br>
        <span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
          font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style="font-family:
          Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Bleeding
          brakes</span><br>
        <br>
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      On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted
      first <br>
      or you will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in
      the <br>
      BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces
      the air <br>
      in the wheel cylinders.<br>
      My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft
      tube to <br>
      the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a
      step <br>
      ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the
      pedal, <br>
      then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air
      bubbles <br>
      are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat
      on all <br>
      wheel. Works every time.<br>
      Cheers<br>
      Larry Varley<br>
      <br>
      <br>
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