<div dir="ltr">I also learned (through the List, thank you very much) that the wheel furthest from the M/C is not the right rear as it would seem to be from a quick look.  But examining the length of the lines shows the longest travel for North American cars is the left rear (at least for 6 cylinders)  One more Healey fact to keep in mind.<div><br></div><div>Nasty Healeying,</div><div>Rick Neville</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 7:05 AM, Simon Lachlan <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk" target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang="EN-GB" link="blue" vlink="purple"><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is “best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all the air out. I know that I have.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">I’ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">“If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time it is<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-autospace:none"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">application.”<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">Worth bearing in mind.<span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><u></u><u></u></font></span></span></p><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif""><u></u> <u></u></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"TimesNewRoman","serif"">Simon</span><u></u><u></u></p></font></span></div></div><br>_______________________________________________<br>
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