<div dir="ltr"><div>Micheal,<br><br></div>My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...<br><br>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b style>Removing Broken Studs
from Cast Iron Manifolds</b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs
from cast iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as
I can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud
then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I heat <u>only</u> the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to <u>cherry
red</u> and then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating
solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully
clamp the needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY
rock it back and forth ever so slightly. If you get any movement
whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat
the heating and shock cooling process followed by the locking pliers as many
times as it takes. With patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the way. <br></p><p class="MsoNormal"><br></p><p class="MsoNormal">I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the
8 studs were frozen and/or broken off.<span style>
</span>Some of them had just ¼” of stud proud of the manifold.<span style> </span>All seven came out using this process.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF
you are careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum. </p>
<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things easier.<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">If all else fails new brackets..<br><br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Michael S<br></div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">BN1 #174<br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><span class=""><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div><div style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.<br>They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.<br>Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to massive amount of force.<br>Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious repair.<br>Michael S.<br>BN1 #174<br></div></div></div></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br></span><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">-- <br><div><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><i><font size="2"><span style="color:black">If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</span></font></i><br><br><div></div><div></div><div></div></div></div></div></div>
</font></span></div>
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