<div dir="ltr">The correct thread size is a 6BA. a 4-48 is very close and would probably work (6BA is 47.9TPI and 4-48 is 48TPI, diameters are also close). A 4-40 will go in about 1 1/2 turns and then starts cutting new threads. Countersink 6BAs are available from British Tool and fastener. Countersink 4-48s are available from MacMaster Carr but you have to buy 50.<div><br></div><div>Marv J</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:22 PM, Earl Kagna <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:kags@shaw.ca" target="_blank">kags@shaw.ca</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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<div dir="ltr">
<div style="FONT-FAMILY:'Arial';COLOR:#141100;FONT-SIZE:12pt">
<div>Ben: The thread size is 4 / 40. I lost mine as well –
made up a new one. Went to a hobby shop that had model train stuff, bought
a bag of 6 4 / 40 x 1/4” – the closest that I could find. They
happened to be allen heads, which was okay because the head faces downward when
assembled and is hard to see. I had to file the head down so that the
screw head fit comfortably in the countersunk shaped seat in the lock
barrel. Also had to file the threaded part down so that it did not
protrude enough to foul the lock cylinder. I was a lot of f**ting around,
and it cost a bit of fingertip skin, but in the end it worked very well.
In order not to ever have to do it again, I used a tiny touch of blue locktite
when I assembled it.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>If you can’t find anything, let me know – I have the rest of the bag left
and would be happy to mail you a couple.</div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-FAMILY:'Arial';COLOR:#141100;FONT-SIZE:12pt">Earl
Kagna<br>Victoria, B.C.<br>BJ8, BT7 tri-carb</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div style="FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000;FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;TEXT-DECORATION:none">
<div style="FONT:10pt tahoma">
<div> </div>
<div style="BACKGROUND:#f5f5f5">
<div><b>From:</b> <a title="RCT2BNC@aol.com" href="mailto:RCT2BNC@aol.com" target="_blank">RCT2BNC@aol.com</a> </div>
<div><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, June 04, 2015 6:00 PM</div>
<div><b>To:</b> <a title="healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a> </div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BJ8 Glove box lock: set-screw
size</div></div></div>
<div> </div></div>
<div style="FONT-STYLE:normal;DISPLAY:inline;FONT-FAMILY:'Calibri';COLOR:#000000;FONT-SIZE:small;FONT-WEIGHT:normal;TEXT-DECORATION:none"><div><div class="h5"><font color="#000000" size="2" face="Arial">
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma">Finally, refinishing dash & glove box on
BJ8 that's been off the road...too long. The glove box lock should have a very
very small machine screw that holds the inner pot-metal sleeve to the chrome
outer casing. </font><font size="3" face="Tahoma">Mine have probably been gone since
1970s when it was hard to open the glove box. </font></div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma">So, does anyone on the list know the correct size
for this item? The length is probably 1/8" +/- </font></div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma">Thanks.</font></div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma"></font> </div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma">Ben Cohen</font></div>
<div><font size="3" face="Tahoma">BJ833911</font></div></font>
</div></div><p>
</p><hr>
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