It liquifies under load, so probably just heat it up a bit and pour it in.<br><br>On Wednesday, June 17, 2015, Tom Felts <<a href="mailto:tomfelts@windstream.net">tomfelts@windstream.net</a>> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">OK------so today I went out and bought a tube of John Deere Corn Head grease--14oz. Then I began to wonder how exactly I'd get all this gunk into the steering box.<br>
<br>
I will try letting the grease sit in the sun and get good and hot and then just use a hand grease gun and lots of time to fill it.<br>
<br>
Anyone done it differently?<br>
<br>
tom<br>
---- Earl Kagna <<a href="javascript:;" onclick="_e(event, 'cvml', 'kags@shaw.ca')">kags@shaw.ca</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
=============<br>
Tom:<br>
<br>
I agree with all of the responses on the leaking steering box. ie: if you<br>
decide to replace parts, do it right - remove the column and do it on the<br>
bench.<br>
<br>
Here is worked for me - several years ago for my tri-carb: Drain the box in<br>
place - loosen the bolts for the bottom plate enough to allow whatever is in<br>
there to drain. Allow lots of time for as complete a drain as possible. I<br>
left mine for 2 -3 days. Tighten the bolts and get some light grease - one<br>
lister recommended some John Deere stuff, I used Penrite steering box lube.<br>
It's specifically designed for old car steering boxes. It's pretty thick,<br>
so I heated it in order to get it to flow so I could get it into the box.<br>
It's been probably close to 10 years, and the box hasn't leaked yet, and the<br>
steering works just fine.<br>
<br>
I'm so impressed with that stuff, that it went into the BJ8's steering box<br>
and idler upon assembly at the restoration a couple of years ago. I would<br>
try this before you start tearing things apart.<br>
<br>
Sorry, I can't help with the wheel / noise problem. I know from personal<br>
experience that Dayton has had some problems the last couple years, but<br>
don't know of any problems like you have. Apparently the MWS wheels are<br>
much better at this time - I'm told that they come out of the box nice and<br>
round.<br>
<br>
Earl Kagna<br>
Victoria, B.C.<br>
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Tom Felts<br>
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 1:53 PM<br>
To: <a href="javascript:;" onclick="_e(event, 'cvml', 'healeys@autox.team.net')">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8<br>
<br>
I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right front<br>
suspension area when making a slow full right turn.<br>
<br>
I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and is<br>
not moving.<br>
<br>
I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.<br>
<br>
I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.<br>
<br>
It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.<br>
<br>
Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and<br>
found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit<br>
flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn. Their<br>
solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem.<br>
<br>
Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you<br>
determine was the issue and how did you solve it?<br>
<br>
Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal)<br>
and the dust excluder has disintegrated. Is it possible to replace these 2<br>
items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower nut<br>
and steering lever?<br>
<br>
Thanks for any help.<br>
<br>
tom<br>
65 BJ8<br>
<br>
<br>
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