<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Most of the answers you seek can be found here Bob...</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf">http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/0192%20June%202014%20-%20Automotive%20Engine%20Oil%20Summary.pdf</a></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br></span><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sent from my iPhone</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>On 11 Jun 2015, at 1:32 pm, Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">
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OK, I'll bite. How, exactly, do you formulate an oil for an older
engine (besides adding lots of ZDDP for flat tappet cams)? Except
for (possibly) looser clearances--not necessarily so if you have a
good machinist--what is the difference between an older iron block
and a newer one (I know many modern engines are Al), Al pistons,
steel con rods, babbitt bearings, etc. <br>
<br>
We are running modern oils in:<br>
<br>
- a 1946 Chevy 2-ton truck<br>
- a 1955 T-Bird<br>
- a 1956 BN2/100M<br>
- a 1965 Mustang (289)<br>
- a 1967 BJ8 (that gets 4-5K miles/year and uses--drips, mostly--a
quart of oil every 3,500 miles)<br>
<br>
... with no issues with the oil whatsoever. Sorry, but while I'm
sure Pennrite is a good oil, unless you/they can tell me exactly
what needs to be formulated for older engines it sounds like
marketing blather to me. If 'formulated for older engines' means
you get lots of sludge and gunk in the pan thanks, but I'll pass. I
had the timing cover off my BJ8 to replace the seal the other day
and was astounded at how clean it was; not a speck of crud (110,000
miles since the last rebuild).<br>
<br>
Note there are strict requirements (per SAE) for oil viscosities, so
20W-50 Pennrite is the same viscosity as 20W-50 KMart oil and, BTW,
there's no good reason not to use a multi-vis oil; you're doing your
top end a disservice every time you start the engine if you don't.
I believe Pennrite makes a XXW-60 oil, which should give a little
more oil pressure if your engine is oil pressure-challenged.<br>
<br>
Any racers on the List care to chime in? Richard M., aka 'Boy
Racer,' are you on here?<br>
<br>
Gearboxes? No question, modern synthetics--like Redline MT-90--are
hands down the best (if you can live with the leaking--I can).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
ps. I'm not trying to be antagonistic Patrick, I just don't buy the
Pennrite line</blockquote><style><!--
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