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Been a long time, and probably with the earlier product, but IIRC I
just sprayed it over whatever was left of the original dry lube. I
probably scuffed the inside of the canister with Scotchbrite or
emery cloth and cleaned it with brake cleaner. Probably did a
couple coats, just like any other paint. I remember I had to buy 2
cans of it--and used about a tenth of a can--and had to pay a bunch
for hazmat shipping. The remainder was unusable after a couple
years.<br>
<br>
In hindsight I think I probably didn't need to do it, as the
original coating appeared to be intact and the piston wasn't
sticking.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/17/2015 6:16 PM, R. Cobb wrote:<br>
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Michael Salter was kind enough to inform me that the vacuum chest
of the servo is steel rather than aluminum, as I had stated. <br>
<br>
So, what follows is Sandstrom's application protocol for steel:<br>
<br>
"Application on steel. Pre-clean the steel surface with aliphatic
naphtha or any other EPA compliant cleaner that sufficiently<br>
cleans surfaces to pass ASTM F22. Sandblast the surfaces with
180-220 grit aluminum oxide (25-50 RMS optimum). Phosphate<br>
IAW MIL-DTL-16232 (weight should be 11-22 g/m2), type M, class 3
or type Z, class 3."<br>
<br>
Any comments from those who may have used the Sandstrom dry lube
products in the past?<br>
<br>
Thanks.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
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