<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body><div><div style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">I'm sure that you are correct Richard but my numbers are just based on the results of many such tests.<br>I have found that the thin brass crimped cable terminations that were used on the original cables perform very poorly, so much so that they get warm after a few seconds of starter cranking even when in good condition.<br>Also, by my count, there are 4 connections on the supply side and 4 more on the ground side plus the solenoid and the master switch (which usually has fairly considerable resistance), many more than current vehicles. <br>I have also found that the original starters are serious current hogs compared to more modern reduction gear units...I've seen over 400 amps stalled and not a lot less when slowly turning a very cold engine.<br>Granted the tests I suggested won't really show the true voltage that the starter is seeing but hopefully they will point John in the right direction.<br>Hardly surprising that your typically Healey cranks fairly slowly even when things are in good condition.<br>Michael S<br>BN1 #174</div></div><div dir="ltr"><hr><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:richard.ewald@gmail.com">Richard Ewald</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">20/02/2015 5:56 p.m.</span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">Michael Salter</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Cc: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a href="mailto:jmsdarch@sbcglobal.net">John Spaur</a>; <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Electrical - general questions BT7</span><br><br></div>First off battery voltages: a wet cell battery produces 2.12V/cell when fully charged. <br>So a fully charged 12V is 2.12 X 6= 12.72V. Anything above 12.6V is accepted as fully charged<br>Anything above 12.72 is surface charge that has to be removed for testing by letting the battery sit or turning on the headlights for about a minute. <br>So: 12.6 fully charged<br>12.4. 3/4 charge<br>12.25. 1/2 charge<br>12.0 1/4 charge<br>Michael, your numbers for voltage drops is too high by a factor of at least 2 if not more. <br>Auto industry standard for a starter cable voltage drop is 0.2V +0.1V for each connection or solenoid, so you get a standard spec of .2+.1+.1+.1=0.5V not 2.0V. Now the Healey has a long + cable so I might accept a drop of a little more than 0.5V but for sure I would be doing a repair on 2V. On the ground side I would expect about0.3V not 1V like you said. <br>Rick<br><br>Sent from my iPhone</body></html>