From eps2660 at gmail.com  Fri Apr  3 10:38:59 2026
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2026 12:38:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdgW5iLDAtNgKOCxo3n-qNrkLzPRrhP7o+vRChNAy9TRmA@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know if the locking Aston style gas filler cap carried by Moss
(117-462) will fit the filler neck of a big Healey?
Thanks for your help,
Elton Schulz
BJ7
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Apr  3 11:13:35 2026
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2026 17:13:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
Message-ID: <e99473f7-5608-facf-1acd-62ce8e1d15c8@charter.net>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr  6 07:48:36 2026
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2026 09:48:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
In-Reply-To: <e99473f7-5608-facf-1acd-62ce8e1d15c8@charter.net>
References: <e99473f7-5608-facf-1acd-62ce8e1d15c8@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKvgz-kMDMB_KEja-N=CVsac3rinnF0AfowSHhm9q1Ydw@mail.gmail.com>

That the advantage of the 100, just lock the boot ?

On Fri, Apr 3, 2026 at 1:27?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> With the current price of fuel we should all get one of these-this one
> should fit-I have one on the BJ8 and most all fillers are equal:
> GAS CAP, locking
> $57.85
> *Part #*
> 202-760
> *Application*
> BN4-BJ8, MGB 1962-69, Midget/Sprite 1959-69, MGC
>
> --------------------
>
> From: "Elton S via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: "Elton S" <eps2660 at gmail.com>
> To: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: April 3, 2026 at 9:55 AM PDT
> Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
> Does anyone know if the locking Aston style gas filler cap carried by Moss
> (117-462) will fit the filler neck of a big Healey?
> Thanks for your help,
> Elton Schulz
> BJ7
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Mon Apr  6 07:54:57 2026
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2026 13:54:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKvgz-kMDMB_KEja-N=CVsac3rinnF0AfowSHhm9q1Ydw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e99473f7-5608-facf-1acd-62ce8e1d15c8@charter.net>
 <CAFBXTkKvgz-kMDMB_KEja-N=CVsac3rinnF0AfowSHhm9q1Ydw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR04MB6931267D0F88804312499978A15DA@BY5PR04MB6931.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Nailed it Alan ?


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 6, 2026 9:48:36 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap

That the advantage of the 100, just lock the boot ?

On Fri, Apr 3, 2026 at 1:27?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
With the current price of fuel we should all get one of these-this one should fit-I have one on the BJ8 and most all fillers are equal:
GAS CAP, locking
$57.85
Part #
202-760
Application
BN4-BJ8, MGB 1962-69, Midget/Sprite 1959-69, MGC

--------------------

From: "Elton S via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Reply-To: "Elton S" <eps2660 at gmail.com<mailto:eps2660 at gmail.com>>
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: April 3, 2026 at 9:55 AM PDT
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
Does anyone know if the locking Aston style gas filler cap carried by Moss (117-462) will fit the filler neck of a big Healey?
Thanks for your help,
Elton Schulz
BJ7

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Apr  6 08:03:29 2026
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2026 10:03:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdgW5iLDAtNgKOCxo3n-qNrkLzPRrhP7o+vRChNAy9TRmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdgW5iLDAtNgKOCxo3n-qNrkLzPRrhP7o+vRChNAy9TRmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJuaOw46AsNACShPA0wGn210tS7UVxFmwByBExgv7fUaw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Elton -

Jokes aside about the 100, I actually have this cap on my BJ8 and yes it
fits.

It's pretty nice but when you unlock it, the entire Aston housing comes off
as one unit, so it's really just for looks really.

To be fair it does look quite authentic, part of me wants to remove the
locking cap insert and attach the aluminum piece to the filler neck to make
it fully legit in appearance and function.  I like the fact it is much
smaller than an actual Aston cap which are quite large.

Best,

Alan

On Fri, Apr 3, 2026 at 12:52?PM Elton S via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Does anyone know if the locking Aston style gas filler cap carried by Moss
> (117-462) will fit the filler neck of a big Healey?
> Thanks for your help,
> Elton Schulz
> BJ7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Apr  6 09:47:45 2026
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2026 11:47:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKvgz-kMDMB_KEja-N=CVsac3rinnF0AfowSHhm9q1Ydw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e99473f7-5608-facf-1acd-62ce8e1d15c8@charter.net>
 <CAFBXTkKvgz-kMDMB_KEja-N=CVsac3rinnF0AfowSHhm9q1Ydw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B503Z1-fbMxjnsQTo5Odjy-u+AMd_BMteN8o=CD6AYXSw@mail.gmail.com>

*"That's the advantage of the 100"*
-------------------------------
Just one of many!

On Mon, Apr 6, 2026 at 10:15?AM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> That the advantage of the 100, just lock the boot ?
>
> On Fri, Apr 3, 2026 at 1:27?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> With the current price of fuel we should all get one of these-this one
>> should fit-I have one on the BJ8 and most all fillers are equal:
>> GAS CAP, locking
>> $57.85
>> *Part #*
>> 202-760
>> *Application*
>> BN4-BJ8, MGB 1962-69, Midget/Sprite 1959-69, MGC
>>
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Elton S via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Reply-To: "Elton S" <eps2660 at gmail.com>
>> To: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: April 3, 2026 at 9:55 AM PDT
>> Subject: [Healeys] Gas Filler cap
>> Does anyone know if the locking Aston style gas filler cap carried by
>> Moss (117-462) will fit the filler neck of a big Healey?
>> Thanks for your help,
>> Elton Schulz
>> BJ7
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Apr  8 09:05:07 2026
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 08:05:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
Message-ID: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>

Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
Need to re-tighten the crank nut.
So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
Thank you
rg

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Apr  8 10:20:21 2026
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 17:20:21 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>

If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it with a piece of wood.

Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?

Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.

Have fun. Simon

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: 08 April 2026 16:05
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.

Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.

Need to re-tighten the crank nut.

So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?

Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?

Thank you

rg

 


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Virus-free. <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> www.avg.com

 

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr  8 11:12:22 2026
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 10:12:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9b85727b-f382-4328-91e2-282dfdf4a292@sbcglobal.net>

Put the engine in? 1st gear, then with the rear wheels of car on the 
ground have someone hold their foot on the brakes.

You can then tighten the crank pulley with a large breaker bar and socket.

You will need to disconnect the motor mounts from the frame and 
disconnect the throttle rod and the pivot on the intake manifold and 
remove the front air filter and lift the engine. In order to get a 
socket on the crank nut.

-- 
David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


On 4/8/2026 8:05 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
> Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
> Need to re-tighten?the crank nut.
> So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
> Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
> Thank you
> rg
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 
> 	Virus-free.www.avg.com 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Apr  8 11:22:31 2026
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2026 17:22:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
Message-ID: <b892a605-7839-f0ba-527e-8942db3fd7ba@charter.net>

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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 11:28:46 2026
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 17:28:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR04MB6931640934FB8C120E0498B6A15B2@BY5PR04MB6931.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

The factory tool was a "slugging wrench", pic attached.
The rotating assembly of a Healey engine has significant inertia so using this tool precludes the necessity to "lock" it.


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:20:21 PM
To: 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank


If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it with a piece of wood.

Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?

Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.

Have fun. Simon





From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: 08 April 2026 16:05
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank



Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.

Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.

Need to re-tighten the crank nut.

So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?

Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?

Thank you

rg



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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Wed Apr  8 12:13:26 2026
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 20:13:26 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <9b85727b-f382-4328-91e2-282dfdf4a292@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <9b85727b-f382-4328-91e2-282dfdf4a292@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1775672006679.42427.d531817b4770655d81e4111ab8357cf6f2be1468@spica.telekom.de>

David,
Why 1st gear and not 4th gear? 1st gear makes it easier to crank the 
engine. 4th gear makes more sense.
 
Josef Eckert
K?nigswinter/Germany

 

 

 

 

 

-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank

Datum: 2026-04-08T20:01:53+0200

Von: "David Nock" <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>

An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>

 

 

 

Put the engine in  1st gear, then with the rear wheels of car on the ground 
have someone hold their foot on the brakes. 

You can then tighten the crank pulley with a large breaker bar and socket.

You will need to disconnect the motor mounts from the frame and disconnect 
the throttle rod and the pivot on the intake manifold and remove the front 
air filter and lift the engine. In order to get a socket on the crank nut.

     

-- David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 209 948 8767 
<http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>

 

On 4/8/2026 8:05 AM, Roger Grace wrote:

    Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
    Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
    Need to re-tighten the crank nut.
    So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
    Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
    Thank you
    rg

    <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
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    _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net 
    <http://www.team.net/donate.html> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: 
    <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> 
    <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From kags at shaw.ca  Wed Apr  8 12:29:12 2026
From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 11:29:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>

Roger:
 
As Simon says, best bet is an equivalent to the factory ?slugging wrench? tool.  No need to access the crankshaft or flywheel. I bought a cheap combo wrench years ago to do this ? can?t remember the measurements, and it?s at Mike Owens shop.  I can check the specs for you, or you are welcome to use it if you are not in a big hurry.  Feel like a ferry ride?
 
Cheers   ---   Earl
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9:20 AM
To: 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank
 
If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it with a piece of wood.
Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?
Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.
Have fun. Simon
 
 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: 08 April 2026 16:05
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
 
Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
Need to re-tighten the crank nut.
So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
Thank you
rg
 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Apr  8 13:13:24 2026
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 15:13:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>

Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel
of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks
with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked
great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of
the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back
then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim
wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.

I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original
wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.

Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a
little research to see if I could find a filler material which would form a
stronger bond with the plastic rim material.

Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced.
Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A
simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic
material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and
again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.

I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely that the
plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate.

Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were made
from?
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Apr  8 13:27:20 2026
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 20:27:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <008701dcc78d$b87f0300$297d0900$@alexarevel.plus.com>

This is the spanner I mentioned. So far as I can remember, I spotted it in a rather strange tool shop and bought it on spec. Cost me pennies?after all, who wants something like that?

Doesn?t get used very often!

Simon

 

From: kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca> 
Sent: 08 April 2026 19:29
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

Roger:

 

As Simon says, best bet is an equivalent to the factory ?slugging wrench? tool.  No need to access the crankshaft or flywheel. I bought a cheap combo wrench years ago to do this ? can?t remember the measurements, and it?s at Mike Owens shop.  I can check the specs for you, or you are welcome to use it if you are not in a big hurry.  Feel like a ferry ride?

 

Cheers   ---   Earl

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9:20 AM
To: 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> >; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it with a piece of wood.

Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?

Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.

Have fun. Simon

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: 08 April 2026 16:05
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.

Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.

Need to re-tighten the crank nut.

So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?

Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?

Thank you

rg

 


 <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 

Virus-free. <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> www.avg.com

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Apr  8 13:31:53 2026
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2026 19:31:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
Message-ID: <bda182e1-8de9-d151-1bfc-a0a5262602a1@charter.net>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Apr  8 13:41:43 2026
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 12:41:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <b892a605-7839-f0ba-527e-8942db3fd7ba@charter.net>
References: <b892a605-7839-f0ba-527e-8942db3fd7ba@charter.net>
Message-ID: <fdd62205-3aa7-423b-810e-f09dfa94c9ed@comcast.net>

After trying all the other 'techniques'--don't forget to undo the tie 
rod on the back of the O/D--I bought a 3/4" air impact wrench from 
Harbor Freight (the socket was almost as much as the wrench). It barely 
fit between the chassis crosspiece, but spun the nut right off.

An 'extravagant' purchase to be sure, but I also have a large, 8-sided 
rear hub socket with a 3/4 inch female 'socket.' The hub nut has an 
official torque setting of 'tighten until all the snot has come out,' 
and the wrench accomplishes it.

bs

On 4/8/2026 10:22 AM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> I like wood on crank journal-no pressure on drive train. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: "'Roger Grace'" <roggrace at telus.net>, "'Healeys'" 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: April 8, 2026 at 9:38 AM PDT
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
> If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam 
> it with a piece of wood.
>
> Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I 
> used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?
>
> Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a 
> big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It 
> is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as 
> anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.
>
> Have fun. Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Roger Grace
> *Sent:* 08 April 2026 16:05
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
> Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
>
> Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
>
> Need to re-tighten?the crank nut.
>
> So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
>
> Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
>
> Thank you
>
> rg
>
> Image removed by sender. 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
> 	
>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Apr  8 17:11:02 2026
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 23:11:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR12MB3546EB0E9DC4823562AE5931BF5B2@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

 Not sure what the original was made from but
I use MARINETEX for fixing, gluing etc. it is a 2 part epoxy ? Or similar it hardens well and sands easily.
Regards,
Richard C


On Apr 8, 2026, at 17:26, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.
I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.
Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a little research to see if I could find a filler material which would form a stronger bond with the plastic rim material.
Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced. Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.
I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely that the plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate.
Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were made from?

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr  8 17:14:31 2026
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 16:14:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <027001dcc7ad$75d11aa0$61734fe0$@sbcglobal.net>

I recommend that you replace the locking washer with a new one while you are doing the work.

 

John

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of kags at shaw.ca
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 11:29 AM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

Roger:

 

As Simon says, best bet is an equivalent to the factory ?slugging wrench? tool.  No need to access the crankshaft or flywheel. I bought a cheap combo wrench years ago to do this ? can?t remember the measurements, and it?s at Mike Owens shop.  I can check the specs for you, or you are welcome to use it if you are not in a big hurry.  Feel like a ferry ride?

 

Cheers   ---   Earl

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9:20 AM
To: 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> >; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it with a piece of wood.

Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?

Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.

Have fun. Simon

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: 08 April 2026 16:05
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank

 

Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.

Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.

Need to re-tighten the crank nut.

So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?

Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?

Thank you

rg

 


 <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> 

Virus-free. <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> www.avg.com

 

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From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Wed Apr  8 17:54:32 2026
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 23:54:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS4PR04MB98918F857D4B655A1A17F1C2E65B2@DS4PR04MB9891.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I am not sure of the material, but after my epoxy repair cracked, I broke the plastic off an old rim and dissolved it in a small jar of acetone until it became a paste.

When I did the repair, I brushed acetone into the cracked area to soften the old plastic before applying the paste. I used masking tape to dam up the shape.

That repair has lasted far better than JB Weld.

Laurie


-------- Original message --------
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Date: 2026-04-08 5:47?p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair

Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.
I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.
Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a little research to see if I could find a filler material which would form a stronger bond with the plastic rim material.
Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced. Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.
I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely that the plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate.
Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were made from?

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Apr  8 18:35:59 2026
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 17:35:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02db01dcc7b8$d6e90ea0$84bb2be0$@sbcglobal.net>

The most likely reason the steering wheel cracks come back is because the steel ring inside the plastic is continuing to rust and expand. Eventually the steel will rust through and the steering wheel will fall apart. I stored my BT7 steering wheel while restoring the rest of the car. When I started to restore it, it fell apart as if it was filled with dust. You may have observed this same process when you see cracked concrete with rust marks around the cracks. For safety?s sake, I don?t recommend restoring steering wheels.

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:13 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair

 

Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.

I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.

Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a little research to see if I could find a filler material which would form a stronger bond with the plastic rim material.

Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced. Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.

I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely that the plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate. 

Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were made from?

 

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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  8 19:34:03 2026
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2026 18:34:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <008701dcc78d$b87f0300$297d0900$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>
 <008701dcc78d$b87f0300$297d0900$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <86b63f93-224b-4efb-b4df-3c1cb3e1ab55@comcast.net>

I have a few tools like that from Father Time.

Mike

On 4/8/26 12:27 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> This is the spanner I mentioned. So far as I can remember, I spotted 
> it in a rather strange tool shop and bought it on spec. Cost me 
> pennies?after all, who wants something like that?
>
> Doesn?t get used very often!
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*kags at shaw.ca <kags at shaw.ca>
> *Sent:* 08 April 2026 19:29
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Roger Grace' 
> <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
> Roger:
>
> As Simon says, best bet is an equivalent to the factory ?slugging 
> wrench? tool.? No need to access the crankshaft or flywheel. I bought 
> a cheap combo wrench years ago to do this ? can?t remember the 
> measurements, and it?s at Mike Owens shop.? I can check the specs for 
> you, or you are welcome to use it if you are not in a big hurry.? Feel 
> like a ferry ride?
>
> Cheers ---?? Earl
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon 
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9:20 AM
> *To:* 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
> If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam 
> it with a piece of wood.
>
> Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I 
> used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?
>
> Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a 
> big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It 
> is an absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as 
> anything, looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.
>
> Have fun. Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Roger Grace
> *Sent:* 08 April 2026 16:05
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
> Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
>
> Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
>
> Need to re-tighten?the crank nut.
>
> So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
>
> Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
>
> Thank you
>
> rg
>
> Image removed by sender. 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
> 	
>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Thu Apr  9 00:06:47 2026
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2026 08:06:47 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1775714807631.99023.3713bd1dde398dee227e8ae61a17359713ba7600@spica.telekom.de>

Hi Michael,

I don't know what material was used for the steering wheels back then, but 
I've learned that different materials were used for the Bluemel steering 
wheels over the production run of our Healeys. The material used in the AH 
100 steering wheels is much easier to repair than that used in steering 
wheels from the 1960s. I've repaired steering wheels for a Daimler SP250, 
and it was very difficult. The cracks kept reappearing. I don't use JB WELD 
here, but on the advice of a steering wheel restorer, I use PC-7 epoxy. 
This works wonderfully on AH 100 steering wheels. But even with this, it's 
very difficult to permanently repair some of the later AH 3000 steering 
wheels.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

Josef Eckert

K?nigswinter/Germany

 

 

 

 

-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair

Datum: 2026-04-09T00:44:19+0200

Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>

An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>

 

 

 

Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering wheel 
of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks 
with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked 
great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of 
the JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back 
then I replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim 
wheel, with which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.

I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the original 
wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.

Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a 
little research to see if I could find a filler material which would form a 
stronger bond with the plastic rim material.

Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not convinced. 
Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does not melt. A 
simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic 
material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and 
again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.

I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely that the 
plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate.

Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were made 
from?

 

?
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From cgmoog at optonline.net  Thu Apr  9 05:10:22 2026
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (cgmoog)
Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2026 07:10:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <69D764EB0004D0AC@altprdrgo001.altice.prod.cloud.openwave.ai>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

The JB Weld wss probably too stiff and also did not bond well to the flexible wheel. I think you had the right idea. I haven't used it but Eastwood makes a steering wheel repair kit.https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-master-steering-wheel-repair-kit.htmlThey also have a video on use of the kithttps://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2fkiGXsiSs4
-------- Original message --------From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> Date: 4/8/26  3:13 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair 



















Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering
wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling the cracks
with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss black it looked
great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared at the interface of the
JB Weld and the original plastic from which the rim was molded. Back then I
replaced the original wheel with a shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with
which I was never completely happy, and all was good, sort of.

I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on
the original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.

Before starting with
the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a little research to see if I could
find a filler material which would form a stronger bond with the plastic rim
material.

Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was
not convinced. Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does not
melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was a thermo-plastic
material because it easily melted and could be deformed when heated and again
unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.

I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely
that the plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate. 

Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel
rims were made from?






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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Apr  9 07:47:15 2026
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2026 14:47:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
Message-ID: <000301dcc827$60285d10$20791730$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I'm tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit for
the front suspension's top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the magical
results described, it seems reasonably priced..
Have any of you tried this conversion?
Was it as easy as they suggest?
And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they've got their own version..has
anyone tried that?
And is one kit known to be better than the other?
Thanks,
Simon
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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Apr  9 11:25:05 2026
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2026 10:25:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <027001dcc7ad$75d11aa0$61734fe0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CALPtYiN92SY7hKoCmrG6BtSOg2xUQk8W7fobBEZ=Nas7oUOwdA@mail.gmail.com>
 <004501dcc773$99362060$cba26120$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000001dcc785$99c6e980$cd54bc80$@shaw.ca>
 <027001dcc7ad$75d11aa0$61734fe0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCArg59SBZLuc=7Xs5bzL0nHjLkZesH_+xQ9=Yaj8n2T8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All,

There is an official BMC tool designed to remove the starting dog nut
without needing to lock the crankshaft. It is referred to as a "shock type"
spanner (part number 18G391), which, as others have suggested, is used by
striking it with a hammer.

Please see the attached image.

Best regards,
Harold Manifold

On Thu, Apr 9, 2026 at 5:31?AM JSARCH <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I recommend that you replace the locking washer with a new one while you
> are doing the work.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *
> kags at shaw.ca
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 8, 2026 11:29 AM
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>;
> 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
>
>
> Roger:
>
>
>
> As Simon says, best bet is an equivalent to the factory ?slugging wrench?
> tool.  No need to access the crankshaft or flywheel. I bought a cheap combo
> wrench years ago to do this ? can?t remember the measurements, and it?s at
> Mike Owens shop.  I can check the specs for you, or you are welcome to use
> it if you are not in a big hurry.  Feel like a ferry ride?
>
>
>
> Cheers   ---   Earl
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 8, 2026 9:20 AM
> *To:* 'Roger Grace' <roggrace at telus.net>; 'Healeys' <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
>
>
> If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it
> with a piece of wood.
>
> Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used
> this for work on the clutch but should do the job?
>
> Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big
> hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an
> absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything,
> looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.
>
> Have fun. Simon
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Roger
> Grace
> *Sent:* 08 April 2026 16:05
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
>
>
> Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
>
> Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
>
> Need to re-tighten the crank nut.
>
> So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
>
> Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
>
> Thank you
>
> rg
>
>
>
> [image: Image removed by sender.]
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 05:20:51 2026
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 12:20:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <000301dcc827$60285d10$20791730$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000301dcc827$60285d10$20791730$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>

Simon

I fitted these some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little
lighter.

The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted by
choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the recommendation,
I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.

The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut
tight. I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the two
thou lift

There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift

All the best.

On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit
> for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the
> magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.
>
> Have any of you tried this conversion?
>
> Was it as easy as they suggest?
>
> And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has
> anyone tried that?
>
> And is one kit known to be better than the other?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Apr 10 07:01:24 2026
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 09:01:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>

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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 08:18:56 2026
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 10:18:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
 <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>

John,

What should the clearance be and how do you measure it?   Also what is the
torque setting for the nut?

Thanks.

Fred
65 BJ8

On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
wrote:

> I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years. It?s been
> a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to get the tolerance
> right.
> It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.
>
> Stephen, BJ8
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Simon
>
> I fitted these some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little
> lighter.
>
> The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted by
> choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the recommendation,
> I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.
>
> The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut
> tight. I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the two
> thou lift
>
> There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift
>
> All the best.
>
> On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit
>> for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the
>> magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.
>>
>> Have any of you tried this conversion?
>>
>> Was it as easy as they suggest?
>>
>> And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has
>> anyone tried that?
>>
>> And is one kit known to be better than the other?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 10 08:54:37 2026
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 07:54:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301dcc827$60285d10$20791730$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <857c7ee9-3c3b-4c2b-a25f-196d6ce9678b@sbcglobal.net>

These originally were adjustable. But the manufacturer changed the cap 
part of the assembly, and made them a little thicker. Thus making them 
non adjustable with the shims that they supply.

We have shims available to make the kit so they can be correctly adjusted.

I informed them about this about 1 1/2 years ago. I was told that i was 
the only person that was having a problem with the kits.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


On 4/10/2026 4:20 AM, john harper wrote:
> Simon
>
> I fitted these?some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little 
> lighter.
>
> The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be 
> adjusted by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the 
> recommendation, I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.
>
> The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut 
> tight.?I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get 
> the?two thou lift
>
> There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift
>
> All the best.
>
> On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting theirroller bearing
>     kit for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7).
>     Forthe magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.
>
>     Have any of you tried this conversion?
>
>     Was it as easy as they suggest?
>
>     And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own
>     version?.has anyone tried that?
>
>     And is one kit knownto be better than the other?
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Simon
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Apr 10 09:04:20 2026
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 08:04:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
 <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
 <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5ed4a49d-f439-452d-b2ca-f3e7acdf882e@sbcglobal.net>

Also note that the new kingpin kits are made to long. The top of the 
kingpin will hit the shock arms when you lift the car. So you need to 
cut off the top non threaded section to allow the suspension to move 
correctly.

This has been an issue for about 10 plus years. And after telling the 
various suppliers about the problem many times i just gave up and fix it 
when ever we rebuild a suspension.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com


On 4/10/2026 7:18 AM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> John,
>
> What should the clearance be and how do you measure it? ?Also what is 
> the torque setting for the nut?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Fred
> 65 BJ8
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings 
> <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:
>
>     I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years.
>     It?s been a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to
>     get the tolerance right.
>     It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.
>
>     Stephen, BJ8
>     Sent from my iPad
>
>>     On Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>     ?
>>     Simon
>>
>>     I fitted these?some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a
>>     little lighter.
>>
>>     The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be
>>     adjusted by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this
>>     match the recommendation, I had to file down the top of the
>>     swivel axle.
>>
>>     The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top
>>     nut tight.?I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as
>>     to get the?two thou lift
>>
>>     There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift
>>
>>     All the best.
>>
>>     On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>         I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting theirroller
>>         bearing kit for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000
>>         MkII BT7). Forthe magical results described, it seems
>>         reasonably priced?.
>>
>>         Have any of you tried this conversion?
>>
>>         Was it as easy as they suggest?
>>
>>         And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own
>>         version?.has anyone tried that?
>>
>>         And is one kit knownto be better than the other?
>>
>>         Thanks,
>>
>>         Simon
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 09:18:42 2026
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 11:18:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
 <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
 <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+=1Q5Ys1DbgcPaAfTFB6O+ji4O5jqSfqYxx4C7vPPurw@mail.gmail.com>

There is meant to be 0.002" of end float of the swivel axle on the swivel
pin (kingpin).
No torque specification for the nut is provided in the factory manuals.

M



On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 10:50?AM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> John,
>
> What should the clearance be and how do you measure it?   Also what is the
> torque setting for the nut?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Fred
> 65 BJ8
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years. It?s
>> been a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to get the
>> tolerance right.
>> It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Simon
>>
>> I fitted these some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little
>> lighter.
>>
>> The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted
>> by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the
>> recommendation, I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.
>>
>> The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut
>> tight. I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the two
>> thou lift
>>
>> There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift
>>
>> All the best.
>>
>> On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit
>>> for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the
>>> magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.
>>>
>>> Have any of you tried this conversion?
>>>
>>> Was it as easy as they suggest?
>>>
>>> And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has
>>> anyone tried that?
>>>
>>> And is one kit known to be better than the other?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Simon
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Fri Apr 10 09:25:22 2026
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 16:25:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
 <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
 <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLX=WARXpYL1d63gHCHOzeGu8-6ibdArctCpSKhCXHJXtg@mail.gmail.com>

Fred

In the original arrangement, the washers must be assembled so that the
maximum lift of the swivel axle on the kingpin is 0.002 in, adjusting the
clearance by using various thicknesses of Staybrite and plain washers.

I believe that the torque setting for the nut is 55 ft/lb.

Fitting the bearing, tightening the top nut and then slackening it off may
not give the right or safe result.

However, I have seen versions where the kingpin is drilled through in two
places with a split pin fitted through a castellated nut. The nut must be
tightened down fully, then backed off to allow the split pin to go through.

Maybe just a small amount of slackening will not lose sufficient torque to
cause a problem

All the best.

On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 15:19, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> John,
>
> What should the clearance be and how do you measure it?   Also what is the
> torque setting for the nut?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Fred
> 65 BJ8
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years. It?s
>> been a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to get the
>> tolerance right.
>> It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Simon
>>
>> I fitted these some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little
>> lighter.
>>
>> The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted
>> by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the
>> recommendation, I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.
>>
>> The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut
>> tight. I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the two
>> thou lift
>>
>> There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift
>>
>> All the best.
>>
>> On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit
>>> for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the
>>> magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.
>>>
>>> Have any of you tried this conversion?
>>>
>>> Was it as easy as they suggest?
>>>
>>> And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has
>>> anyone tried that?
>>>
>>> And is one kit known to be better than the other?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Simon
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Fri Apr 10 09:50:54 2026
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 08:50:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Locking Crank
In-Reply-To: <fdd62205-3aa7-423b-810e-f09dfa94c9ed@comcast.net>
References: <b892a605-7839-f0ba-527e-8942db3fd7ba@charter.net>
 <fdd62205-3aa7-423b-810e-f09dfa94c9ed@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiMWrc128015ACh2X1JWaNznV6UsfXH=MjeT1b6=frc3cw@mail.gmail.com>

Update
Thanks to all for good suggestions.
So opted for the inertia hammer beating method after being able to get an
open ended wrench from Amazon. Did the best I could with a 3lb hammer in
the limited space. Was reassured when Harold found a Churchill tool with a
note that stated no need to "lock the crank" with this tool - so that was
how the factory did it. After about 20 mins of hammering it was as tight as
it could be while still in the car.
rg

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
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<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Apr 8, 2026 at 5:31?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> After trying all the other 'techniques'--don't forget to undo the tie rod
> on the back of the O/D--I bought a 3/4" air impact wrench from Harbor
> Freight (the socket was almost as much as the wrench). It barely fit
> between the chassis crosspiece, but spun the nut right off.
>
> An 'extravagant' purchase to be sure, but I also have a large, 8-sided
> rear hub socket with a 3/4 inch female 'socket.' The hub nut has an
> official torque setting of 'tighten until all the snot has come out,' and
> the wrench accomplishes it.
>
> bs
>
> On 4/8/2026 10:22 AM, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>
> I like wood on crank journal-no pressure on drive train. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: "'Roger Grace'" <roggrace at telus.net> <roggrace at telus.net>,
> "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: April 8, 2026 at 9:38 AM PDT
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
> If(!) my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and jam it
> with a piece of wood.
>
> Otherwise, maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I used
> this for work on the clutch but should do the job?
>
> Years ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with a big
> hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely tightened up. It is an
> absolute beast of a spanner?open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything,
> looks like something out of a Challenger tank?s toolkit.
>
> Have fun. Simon
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Roger Grace
> *Sent:* 08 April 2026 16:05
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Locking Crank
>
>
>
> Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8 engine that is installed in the car.
>
> Drive shaft and gearbox in place and tunnel off.
>
> Need to re-tighten the crank nut.
>
> So how is the easiest way to lock the crank ?
>
> Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop shaft flange and in 4th gear ?
>
> Thank you
>
> rg
>
>
>
> [image: Image removed by sender.]
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
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>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Apr 10 10:27:42 2026
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 17:27:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
 <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
 <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002801dcc906$f6651a40$e32f4ec0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Good questions! I suppose one could ask the supplier, but they aren?t always as savvy as they should be. Actually, I find AH4Healeys to know their stuff. Which leads me back to:-

Does anyone know whose set is the better of the ? I think ? two??

 

And thanks for the replies. (Keep them coming!)

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe
Sent: 10 April 2026 15:19
To: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit

 

John,

 

What should the clearance be and how do you measure it?   Also what is the torque setting for the nut?

 

Thanks.

 

Fred

65 BJ8

 

On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com <mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com> > wrote:

I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years. It?s been a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to get the tolerance right.

It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.

 

Stephen, BJ8

Sent from my iPad





On Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com <mailto:ah100tech at gmail.com> > wrote:

?

Simon

 

I fitted these some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little lighter. 

 

The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the recommendation, I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.

 

The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut tight. I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the two thou lift 

 

There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift 

 

All the best.  

 

On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.

Have any of you tried this conversion?

Was it as easy as they suggest?

And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has anyone tried that?

And is one kit known to be better than the other?

Thanks,

Simon

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Apr 10 11:35:03 2026
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 10:35:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
In-Reply-To: <02db01dcc7b8$d6e90ea0$84bb2be0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJyYOV=VNRPsqztQGDzQ0AfPK6=WJOfBT90QTzt2A0DAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <02db01dcc7b8$d6e90ea0$84bb2be0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <e43d22b6-1131-4d3e-a670-182dac71775d@comcast.net>

I bought one of the German 'uprated' water pumps which has an outlet 
plug that is the wrong size and leaks. I tried all my usual go-tos: 
teflon tape, JB weld, threadlocker, even brazing--which ruined the 
seal--and none of them sealed and held. Eventually, at the suggestion of 
our own Steven K. I tried Permatex 'Seal and Lock' which both sealed the 
leaks and secured the plug. I haven't tried it on steering wheels, but I 
think it worth a try (NFI)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-THREADLOCKER-SandLK-1-18OZ-Industrial-Sealants/131196196?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

On 4/8/2026 5:35 PM, JSARCH wrote:
>
> The most likely reason the steering wheel cracks come back is because 
> the steel ring inside the plastic is continuing to rust and expand. 
> Eventually the steel will rust through and the steering wheel will 
> fall apart. I stored my BT7 steering wheel while restoring the rest of 
> the car. When I started to restore it, it fell apart as if it was 
> filled with dust. You may have observed this same process when you see 
> cracked concrete with rust marks around the cracks. For safety?s sake, 
> I don?t recommend restoring steering wheels.
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael 
> Salter
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 8, 2026 12:13 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Steering wheel repair
>
> Many years ago, I repaired the large cracks in the original steering 
> wheel of my Phase 1 BJ8 by grinding them out with a Dremel and filling 
> the cracks with JB weld. After sanding and repainting with epoxy gloss 
> black it looked great however, after a few years, more cracks appeared 
> at the interface of the JB Weld and the original plastic from which 
> the rim was molded. Back then I replaced the original wheel with a 
> shiny new Motolita wood-rim wheel, with which I was never completely 
> happy, and all was good, sort of.
>
> I am now faced with having to do the same type of repair on the 
> original wheel from the BN2 which I am currently restoring.
>
> Before starting with the JB Weld process again I thought I should do a 
> little research to see if I could find a filler material which would 
> form a stronger bond with the plastic rim material.
>
> Gemini told me that the rim was made of Bakelite but I was not 
> convinced. Bakelite is a ?thermoset? plastic which, when heated, does 
> not melt. A simple experiment quickly proved that the rim plastic was 
> a thermo-plastic material because it easily melted and could be 
> deformed when heated and again unlike Bakelite it dissolved in acetone.
>
> I have done some Googling and it seems that it?s very likely that the 
> plastic used for molding the rims was Tenite? cellulose acetate.
>
> Does anyone know for sure what the original steering wheel rims were 
> made from?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From manifold at telus.net  Fri Apr 10 12:17:53 2026
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 11:17:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+=1Q5Ys1DbgcPaAfTFB6O+ji4O5jqSfqYxx4C7vPPurw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL28cLWbpRpFCWds3zYvhiDdY4Uykg+=1fKMYs=nW9ehjySwww@mail.gmail.com>
 <E7E92388-ABAB-4A0B-9582-8AC5DED8CA39@rogers.com>
 <CAPAC+V78OJCsz-G+8HFwozPHBQqiEYTkmvSjOf=1MNY=HNEvZg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+=1Q5Ys1DbgcPaAfTFB6O+ji4O5jqSfqYxx4C7vPPurw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCDkwWtoOWA0nJdovzPqRj_OyCjNWYD64KB-ST=Pd56cXg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,

I fitted these bearings when restoring my car. I can't comment on how much
they changed the steering because I never drove my car before the
restoration. They have about 4,000 miles on them, and I have no complaints
so far. I set the end float to 0.002. I also fitted new king pins and
bushings and had them reemed. New kingpins aren't needed for the trunnion
bearing but mine needed a refresh. I didn't use any other shims than those
that came with the kit.

I agree with cutting the top unthreaded part of the king pin off to help
with clearance.

The instructions that came with the kit are attached.

Hope this helps,
Harold


On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 10:29?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> There is meant to be 0.002" of end float of the swivel axle on the swivel
> pin (kingpin).
> No torque specification for the nut is provided in the factory manuals.
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 10:50?AM Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> John,
>>
>> What should the clearance be and how do you measure it?   Also what is
>> the torque setting for the nut?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Fred
>> 65 BJ8
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years. It?s
>>> been a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to get the
>>> tolerance right.
>>> It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.
>>>
>>> Stephen, BJ8
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> ?
>>> Simon
>>>
>>> I fitted these some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little
>>> lighter.
>>>
>>> The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted
>>> by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the
>>> recommendation, I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.
>>>
>>> The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut
>>> tight. I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the two
>>> thou lift
>>>
>>> There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift
>>>
>>> All the best.
>>>
>>> On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing
>>>> kit for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the
>>>> magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.
>>>>
>>>> Have any of you tried this conversion?
>>>>
>>>> Was it as easy as they suggest?
>>>>
>>>> And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has
>>>> anyone tried that?
>>>>
>>>> And is one kit known to be better than the other?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Simon
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From goldengt at cal.net  Fri Apr 10 19:27:35 2026
From: goldengt at cal.net (Ken)
Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2026 18:27:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLX=WARXpYL1d63gHCHOzeGu8-6ibdArctCpSKhCXHJXtg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4fswyb6VQ7zSySTH@allmail.cal.net>

I had them and took them out. I wanted to eliminate possible souces of play. I didn't think wheel bearing shims were good enough for that application.?Ken Freese?65 bj8Sent from my Galaxy
-------- Original message --------From: john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> Date: 4/10/26  11:09 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Trunnion Kit FredIn the original arrangement, the washers must be assembled so that the maximum lift of the swivel axle on the kingpin is 0.002 in, adjusting the clearance by using various thicknesses of Staybrite and plain washers.I believe that the torque setting for the nut is 55 ft/lb.Fitting the bearing, tightening the top nut and then slackening it off may not give the right or safe result.?However, I have seen versions where the kingpin is drilled through in two places with a split pin fitted through a castellated nut. The nut must be tightened down fully, then backed off to allow the split pin to go through.Maybe just a small amount of slackening will not?lose sufficient torque?to cause a problem?All the best.?On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 15:19, Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:John,What should the clearance be and how do you measure it?? ?Also what is the torque setting for the nut?Thanks.Fred65 BJ8On Fri, Apr 10, 2026 at 9:36?AM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> wrote:I?ve had the AH spares trunnion bearings in for about ten years. It?s been a while, but my memory is that I had to add a shim to get the tolerance right.It?s not a dramatic difference, but it?s noticeable.Stephen, BJ8Sent from my iPadOn Apr 10, 2026, at 7:32?AM, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:?SimonI fitted these?some time ago; it seemed to make the steering a little lighter. The drawback was that on the original setup, the lift could be adjusted by choosing the correct spacer washer. To make this match the recommendation, I had to file down the top of the swivel axle.The 'official' recommendation for lift is two thou with the top nut tight.?I would not recommend leaving the top nut loose so as to get the?two thou lift There needs to be a better way of adjusting the swivel axle lift?All the best. ?On Fri, 10 Apr 2026 at 05:04, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:









I?m tempted by an email from AH Spares touting their roller bearing kit for the front suspension?s top trunnion. (AH3000 MkII BT7). For the magical results described, it seems reasonably priced?.

Have any of you tried this conversion?

Was it as easy as they suggest?

And, looking at AH4Healeys, it seems they?ve got their own version?.has anyone tried that?

And is one kit known to be better than the other?

Thanks,

Simon


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_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation ?$12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com_______________________________________________
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Apr 11 16:04:35 2026
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2026 16:04:35 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 35 years!
Message-ID: <60a807cf-d9f4-465d-bb99-d5962d898007@bradakis.com>

Nearly half my life!  Team dot Net went on the air 35 years ago today, 
April 11th, 1991.  Been through a lot of ups and downs over the years, 
many different computers, different ISPs, but almost always there.  I 
won't go into the times that ISP problems shut it down for days, or even 
weeks at a time.

But it is still here, still on the air, still serving the purpose I have 
always upheld, connecting like minded users to mostly car stuff.  And 
always for free.  I do remember back in the beginning it was pretty 
expensive to run.  Fast, at home internet was not widely available.  And 
the first server, one of the earliest PCs in the valley to run at over 
100 Mhz ( Yes, MEGA Hertz! ) cost me $2,500 dollars.  Luckily paid for 
by generous contributions from list members.

Time marches on, and so does Team Net.  I'll keep it going as long as I 
can, health permitting.  Who knows, maybe I'll be sending out a 50th 
birthday notice!

mjb.
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