From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  3 11:43:41 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2025 15:43:41 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] Core plug query
In-Reply-To: <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
References: <002801dc4a5f$0751eb70$15f5c250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>

More often than not, automatic fire sprinklers are activated by a glass bulb filed with a liquid that expands and breaks the bulb which then opens the fire sprinkler head. Bismuth is used in fusible links which that melt at certain temperatures to activate automatic fire doors.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2025 11:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

I did a little diggin ... 

Apparently, they are designed to melt if the engine overheats, which would be grounds for voiding the warranty on a re-man. I wonder if the plug is made of bismuth, which is what sets off automatic fire sprinklers.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/mysterious-plugs-in-engine-block.1659464/

On 10/31/2025 5:08 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

 I saw this on Facebook just now. Just curious?.what?s that thing in the middle of the core plug? And, if it?s a good thing, why don?t all the plugs have one? 

Thanks, Simon

 

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From engl at accesscomm.ca  Mon Nov  3 16:01:08 2025
From: engl at accesscomm.ca (engl at accesscomm.ca)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2025 17:01:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Core plug query
In-Reply-To: <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <002801dc4a5f$0751eb70$15f5c250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
 <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001901dc4d15$be1c2600$3a547200$@accesscomm.ca>

JSARCH is correct for many types of modern sprinkler heads, but there are still several types that use one form or another of fusible links.  I apologize for being a pedant on this topic (sorry, it is what I do ? both being a pedant and design of automatic fire protection systems).

 

Mandatory Healey content : what is the advantage of draining the water from one?s cooling system if the engine is overheating?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob England



 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of JSARCH via Healeys
Sent: November 3, 2025 12:44 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

More often than not, automatic fire sprinklers are activated by a glass bulb filed with a liquid that expands and breaks the bulb which then opens the fire sprinkler head. Bismuth is used in fusible links which that melt at certain temperatures to activate automatic fire doors.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2025 11:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

I did a little diggin ... 

Apparently, they are designed to melt if the engine overheats, which would be grounds for voiding the warranty on a re-man. I wonder if the plug is made of bismuth, which is what sets off automatic fire sprinklers.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/mysterious-plugs-in-engine-block.1659464/

On 10/31/2025 5:08 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

 I saw this on Facebook just now. Just curious?.what?s that thing in the middle of the core plug? And, if it?s a good thing, why don?t all the plugs have one? 

Thanks, Simon

 

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  4 08:19:33 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2025 12:19:33 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] Core plug query
In-Reply-To: <001901dc4d15$be1c2600$3a547200$@accesscomm.ca>
References: <002801dc4a5f$0751eb70$15f5c250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
 <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <001901dc4d15$be1c2600$3a547200$@accesscomm.ca>
Message-ID: <006101dc4d9e$70272f60$50758e20$@sbcglobal.net>

Perhaps the thinking is draining the water will keep the system from being over pressurized and prevent hoses from rupturing?

 

John 

 

From: engl at accesscomm.ca <engl at accesscomm.ca> 
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2025 8:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'JSARCH' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

JSARCH is correct for many types of modern sprinkler heads, but there are still several types that use one form or another of fusible links.  I apologize for being a pedant on this topic (sorry, it is what I do ? both being a pedant and design of automatic fire protection systems).

 

Mandatory Healey content : what is the advantage of draining the water from one?s cooling system if the engine is overheating?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob England

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of JSARCH via Healeys
Sent: November 3, 2025 12:44 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

More often than not, automatic fire sprinklers are activated by a glass bulb filed with a liquid that expands and breaks the bulb which then opens the fire sprinkler head. Bismuth is used in fusible links which that melt at certain temperatures to activate automatic fire doors.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2025 11:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

I did a little diggin ... 

Apparently, they are designed to melt if the engine overheats, which would be grounds for voiding the warranty on a re-man. I wonder if the plug is made of bismuth, which is what sets off automatic fire sprinklers.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/mysterious-plugs-in-engine-block.1659464/

On 10/31/2025 5:08 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

 I saw this on Facebook just now. Just curious?.what?s that thing in the middle of the core plug? And, if it?s a good thing, why don?t all the plugs have one? 

Thanks, Simon

 

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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Wed Nov  5 13:18:16 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2025 20:18:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally came up with a solution!!
Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off (again) trying  to get it open.
M


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov  5 23:12:12 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2025 22:12:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>

Took me a while ;)


On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent 
> very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) 
> I finally came up with a solution!!
> Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle 
> off (again) trying? to get it open.
> M
>
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Nov  6 09:28:20 2025
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 08:28:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael,

Your solution is ingenious and concours correct.

I have a slightly different issue with my radiator drain tap. I need to
drain the radiator, but the lever is stuck in the horizontal, closed
position. I want to avoid breaking the lever, but it's interfering with
unscrewing the cap. I'm trying to avoid moving the radiator altogether.
I've heard that tapping the shaft on the opposite side of the handle might
free up the mechanism.

Do you agree with this approach?

Thanks,
Harold

On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 10:42?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Took me a while ;)
>
>
> On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very
> slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally
> came up with a solution!!
> Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off
> (again) trying  to get it open.
> M
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Thu Nov  6 11:38:02 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 18:38:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
 <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB37648AD5E22AED8317EE5A81A1C2A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Harold, it's odd that the tap that you are talking about is open with the handle in line. I've only ever found that originals are open when the handle is at right angles which, I admit,  defies logic!!
Might be worth poking something through yours to see if there's just some obstruction.
Yes, tapping on the end of the shaft opposite the handle can work but you have to be VERY gentle as it's easy to crush the end of the shaft which is quite thin and has the hole for the split (cotter) pin.
An interesting note, the handle, which is threaded into the ball end of the shaft, is the only place on a Healey which uses a 12 ? 32 tpi thread.
Good luck.

M



________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 6, 2025 11:28:20 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap

Hi Michael,

Your solution is ingenious and concours correct.

I have a slightly different issue with my radiator drain tap. I need to drain the radiator, but the lever is stuck in the horizontal, closed position. I want to avoid breaking the lever, but it's interfering with unscrewing the cap. I'm trying to avoid moving the radiator altogether. I've heard that tapping the shaft on the opposite side of the handle might free up the mechanism.

Do you agree with this approach?

Thanks,
Harold

On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 10:42?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Took me a while ;)


On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally came up with a solution!!
Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off (again) trying  to get it open.
M



_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov  6 12:33:41 2025
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 11:33:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
 <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7e526932-485b-4442-89b7-d3b1e47d4ff9@sbcglobal.net>

Yes you can TAP LIGHTLY on the opposite side where the spring is LIGHTLY 
and you will free up the taper in the tap.

-- 

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com



On 11/6/2025 8:28 AM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Hi Michael,
>
> Your solution is ingenious and concours correct.
>
> I have a slightly different issue with my radiator drain tap. I need 
> to drain the radiator, but the lever is stuck in the horizontal, 
> closed position. I want to avoid breaking the lever, but it's 
> interfering with unscrewing the cap. I'm trying to avoid moving the 
> radiator altogether. I've heard that tapping the shaft on the opposite 
> side of the handle might free up the mechanism.
>
> Do you agree with this approach?
>
> Thanks,
> Harold
>
> On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 10:42?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Took me a while ;)
>
>
>     On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>     After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a
>>     persistent very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it
>>     in many times) I finally came up with a solution!!
>>     Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the
>>     handle off (again) trying? to get it open.
>>     M
>>
>>
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Nov  6 12:36:13 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 14:36:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ7kGafr5_MrL4zdaqs258ZurRbWZ+xTTzguxFCaUdMCQ@mail.gmail.com>

5 years from now you'll be asking yourself, why isn't anything coming out
of this tap?

On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 8:03?PM Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very
> slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally
> came up with a solution!!
> Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off
> (again) trying  to get it open.
> M
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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