[Healeys] Failsafe thermostats

[Roger Grace]

Here ya go. Very simple 2 in stepper movement gauge with 2 switches to
select the different temp probes. All mounted on steering column below the
dash.
rg

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:12 AM Al Fuller <alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information
> is displayed?
>
> ________________
> Sent from my phone
> Best Regards,
> Al Fuller
>
> On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30 AM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
>> Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was
>> working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars.
>> Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery
>> tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
>> relatively simple project and works well.
>> I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
>> WT - Smiths std gauge
>> OT- oil temp at filter
>> EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
>> TH - top hose water temp
>> Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
>> 5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched;
>> 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold
>> have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
>> Most interesting observations are:
>> Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30
>> min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
>> TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
>> EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we
>> under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine
>> block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
>> obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help -
>> hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for
>> competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too
>> rich for the inlet air.
>> Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but
>> seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really
>> good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
>> Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an
>> obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
>> Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
>> Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
>> rg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
>>> occasion.
>>> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in
>>> traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
>>> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the
>>> temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a
>>> thermostat although the warm up is a little slower.
>>> The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
>>> seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
>>> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5
>>> degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type
>>> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the
>>> thermostat is fully open.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
>>>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
>>>> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>>>>
>>>> TIA--Michael Oritt
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