From roggrace at telus.net Thu Jan 2 10:18:46 2025 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2025 09:18:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here ya go. Very simple 2 in stepper movement gauge with 2 switches to select the different temp probes. All mounted on steering column below the dash. rg On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:12?AM Al Fuller wrote: > Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information > is displayed? > > ________________ > Sent from my phone > Best Regards, > Al Fuller > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30?AM Roger Grace wrote: > >> Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was >> working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. >> Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery >> tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a >> relatively simple project and works well. >> I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches : >> WT - Smiths std gauge >> OT- oil temp at filter >> EC - engine compartment near carb intakes >> TH - top hose water temp >> Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest. >> 5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; >> 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold >> have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump. >> Most interesting observations are: >> Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30 >> min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens >> TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading >> EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we >> under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine >> block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal >> obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help - >> hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for >> competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too >> rich for the inlet air. >> Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but >> seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really >> good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine. >> Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an >> obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important >> Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling. >> Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving. >> rg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter >> wrote: >> >>> Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on >>> occasion. >>> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in >>> traffic on the highway after running at high speed. >>> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the >>> temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a >>> thermostat although the warm up is a little slower. >>> The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system >>> seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur. >>> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 >>> degrees C higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type >>> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the >>> thermostat is fully open. >>> >>> M >>> >>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for >>>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail >>>> in the open mode. What is the collective experience with these? >>>> >>>> TIA--Michael Oritt >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20250101_134159.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3832736 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Thu Jan 2 15:08:11 2025 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2025 14:08:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <113f01db5d62$d0b124d0$72136e70$@gmail.com> Nice. I will have to keep that in mind? ----------------------------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Roger Grace Sent: Thursday, January 2, 2025 9:19 AM To: Al Fuller Cc: Michael Salter ; Healeys at Autox Subject: Re: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats Here ya go. Very simple 2 in stepper movement gauge with 2 switches to select the different temp probes. All mounted on steering column below the dash. rg On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:12?AM Al Fuller > wrote: Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information is displayed? ________________ Sent from my phone Best Regards, Al Fuller On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30?AM Roger Grace > wrote: Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a relatively simple project and works well. I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches : WT - Smiths std gauge OT- oil temp at filter EC - engine compartment near carb intakes TH - top hose water temp Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest. 5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump. Most interesting observations are: Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air. Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine. Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling. Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving. rg On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter > wrote: Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occasion. The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in traffic on the highway after running at high speed. On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm up is a little slower. The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur. I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees C higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the thermostat is fully open. M On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt > wrote: I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode. What is the collective experience with these? TIA--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gvernau at gmail.com Sat Jan 4 16:40:11 2025 From: gvernau at gmail.com (George Vernau Sr) Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2025 17:40:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Selling 1967 Healey BJ8 Message-ID: I've reluctantly decided to sell my 1967 Healey BJ8. I bought it new in August 1967 in San Antonio and have driven it continuously but sparingly ever since- under 90000 miles. I'm curious to hear recommendations on the best places and methods to sell it. It's basically an all original well maintained red/black- black car, runs and drives well. I'm just getting too old to keep up with it and it will be too big a hole to bury me in it. Thanks for any ideas, George Vernau Houston, TX From alfuller194 at gmail.com Sun Jan 5 11:33:08 2025 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2025 10:33:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Selling 1967 Healey BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi George, I recently reached the same conclusion as you - it's a big change! Posting here amongst the Healey family is probably a good start. Maybe you can provide some details on condition, timing and price. I've also found the local and national club magazines to be good places to advertise. ________________ Sent from my phone Best Regards, Al Fuller On Sat, Jan 4, 2025, 3:48?PM George Vernau Sr wrote: > I've reluctantly decided to sell my 1967 Healey BJ8. I bought it new > in August 1967 in San Antonio and have driven it continuously but > sparingly ever since- under 90000 miles. I'm curious to hear > recommendations on the best places and methods to sell it. It's > basically an all original well maintained red/black- black car, runs > and drives well. I'm just getting too old to keep up with it and it > will be too big a hole to bury me in it. > Thanks for any ideas, > George Vernau > Houston, TX > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Jan 5 19:05:29 2025 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2025 02:05:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Selling 1967 Healey BJ8 Message-ID: <30f1a887-8c15-b9b5-f478-5c1dddabe593@charter.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Tue Jan 7 22:01:05 2025 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2025 21:01:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Block Porosity Message-ID: Looking for some pearls of wisdom from the more experienced among us. Very frustrating as the car runs so well with good oil pressure and compression. After many months of tests and checking have established that the block on my BJ8 has the porosity issue. This is not the well known oil into water but water into oil. (after 1000 mi, 3300ppm into oil) I did find an area behind the center tappet cover where water was oozing into the drain back from the rocker. Did my best to repair it with epoxy from the outside. No doubt it is leaking there or some place else. Fellow lister Wayne Schultz had the identical problem. My query is if there is a known solution to this problem ? resin impregnation ? or maybe a modern treatment ? Also have located some replacement blocks but how to test ? and be assured that these old blocks also don't develop the same problem ? Changing blocks invariably means a complete engine rebuild. How common is this ? All very painful. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Jan 7 23:35:19 2025 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2025 14:35:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Block Porosity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Roger - I almost hate to suggest this, but have you tried stop leak / aluma seal? It works very well, just the trick is to make sure you flush the cooling system out and replace with fresh coolant after the leaking has stopped (to prevent the leftover stop leak from plugging other stuff up over time. Best, Alan On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 1:14?PM Roger Grace wrote: > Looking for some pearls of wisdom from the more experienced among us. Very > frustrating as the car runs so well with good oil pressure and compression. > After many months of tests and checking have established that the block on > my BJ8 has the porosity issue. This is not the well known oil into water > but water into oil. (after 1000 mi, 3300ppm into oil) I did find an area > behind the center tappet cover where water was oozing into the drain back > from the rocker. Did my best to repair it with epoxy from the outside. No > doubt it is leaking there or some place else. Fellow lister Wayne Schultz > had the identical problem. > My query is if there is a known solution to this problem ? resin > impregnation ? or maybe a modern treatment ? > Also have located some replacement blocks but how to test ? and be assured > that these old blocks also don't develop the same problem ? > Changing blocks invariably means a complete engine rebuild. > How common is this ? > All very painful. > rg > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Jan 8 11:25:10 2025 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2025 13:25:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] California Fires References: <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9@aol.com> Listers Hoping that the folks being impacted by the wildfires have been able to evacuate without physical injury. Sad day?.for many! Perry Currently in South Carolina Sent from my iPhone From eps2660 at gmail.com Wed Jan 8 11:51:16 2025 From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2025 13:51:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] California Fires In-Reply-To: <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9@aol.com> References: <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9.ref@aol.com> <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9@aol.com> Message-ID: Amen to that! Elton On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 1:48?PM Perry Small via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > Hoping that the folks being impacted by the wildfires have been able to > evacuate without physical injury. Sad day?.for many! > Perry > Currently in South Carolina > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Wed Jan 8 12:02:11 2025 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2025 19:02:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking carburetor final results Message-ID: <2aa0004a-e201-be68-fa99-46277c0b2bce@charter.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20250103_190234.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 85683 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20250103_112343.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 154251 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20250103_170820.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 124312 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20250103_112333.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 54250 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jan 8 15:10:28 2025 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2025 14:10:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] California Fires In-Reply-To: <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9@aol.com> References: <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9.ref@aol.com> <9A97677B-214D-4D3D-8C24-62AF273EB0A9@aol.com> Message-ID: Agreed Ira Erbs Milwaukie, OR 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 On Wed, Jan 8, 2025, 10:55?AM Perry Small via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > Hoping that the folks being impacted by the wildfires have been able to > evacuate without physical injury. Sad day?.for many! > Perry > Currently in South Carolina > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jan 10 08:55:16 2025 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 10 Jan 2025 07:55:16 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Block Porosity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <19cea9c8-9e1b-44ec-82c9-120ee6229c74@comcast.net> I just had to put a new head on one of my tractors. With the new head I had a small coolant leak at the back; my mechanic would have checked the new head for flatness, but it leaked with the old head so I assume the block isn't flat (of course I used a new gasket and the sealant Norman Nock recommended for 100 heads). Anyway, I had the 'opportunity' to try several of the sealants, the one the finally worked--for the time being--was this one (Blue Devil didn't work): https://www.amazon.com/K-Seal-ST3501-Permanent-Gasket-Repair/dp/B00QYZIVA6/ On 1/7/2025 10:35 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Hi Roger - > > I almost hate to suggest this, but have you tried stop leak?/ aluma > seal?? It works very well, just the trick is to make sure you flush > the cooling system out and replace with fresh coolant after the > leaking has stopped (to prevent the leftover stop leak from plugging > other stuff up over time. > > Best, > > Alan > > On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 1:14?PM Roger Grace wrote: > > Looking for some pearls of wisdom from the more experienced among > us. Very frustrating as the car runs so well with good oil > pressure and compression. > After many months of tests and checking have established that the > block on my BJ8 has the porosity issue. This is not the well known > oil into water but water into oil. (after 1000 mi, 3300ppm into > oil) I did find an area behind the center tappet cover where water > was oozing into the drain back from the rocker. Did my best to > repair it with epoxy from the outside. No doubt it is leaking > there or some place else. Fellow lister Wayne Schultz had the > identical problem. > My query is if there is a known solution to this problem ? resin > impregnation ? or maybe a modern treatment ? > Also have located some replacement blocks but how to test ? and be > assured that these old blocks also don't develop the same problem ? > Changing blocks invariably means a complete engine rebuild. > How common is this ? > All very painful. > rg > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: HeadLeak.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 844238 bytes Desc: not available URL: