From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  2 04:27:22 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 03:27:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 on BaT
Message-ID: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>

Pretty low selling price; I wonder if this had much to do with it: 'The 
California title carries a ?Title Only? notation, and the seller reports 
that the car is currently registered as Planned Non-Operational.'

At least they didn't try to pass if off as an M.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-30/

From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Sat Mar  2 05:35:40 2024
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 04:35:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 on BaT
In-Reply-To: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>
References: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5a2b3fa2-a650-47df-9517-c81e921d070d@comcast.net>

Looks prettied up.

On 3/2/24 3:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Pretty low selling price; I wonder if this had much to do with it: 
> 'The California title carries a ?Title Only? notation, and the seller 
> reports that the car is currently registered as Planned Non-Operational.'
>
> At least they didn't try to pass if off as an M.
>
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-30/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Sat Mar  2 11:59:03 2024
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 18:59:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 on BaT
In-Reply-To: <5a2b3fa2-a650-47df-9517-c81e921d070d@comcast.net>
References: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>
 <5a2b3fa2-a650-47df-9517-c81e921d070d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2006cbde-da97-460b-80ac-b0fcf57c8241@me.com>

Having a title is key and a "non-op" from the DMV is actually a good thing and getting it registered for the road will be simple and less expensive with no back registration fees. $48K is not chump change, but it's not great either. Most of the "big" sales on BaT have videos of cold starts, drives, walk arounds, etc. Wonder if that would have helped? Who knows. Seems like the buyer got a good deal. Steven Kingsbury '55 BN1 On Mar 2, 2024, at 7:23 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote: Looks prettied up. On 3/2/24 3:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Pretty low selling price; I wonder if this had much to do with it: 'The California title carries a ?Title Only? notation, and the seller reports that the car is currently registered as Planned Non-Operational.' At least they didn't try to pass if off as an M. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-30/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Mar  2 14:51:37 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 16:51:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 on BaT
In-Reply-To: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>
References: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcsmXJkZAvLHkhm9bGGTHoSFH=siyPs_yC1=eVDg5MyMg@mail.gmail.com>

It sold as a non-running project in July for $27,000 :
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-24-2/.
Hadn't been started since 2004 and the paint job is forty years old, so I
wouldn't have expected it to reach real big money.

Rick Neville aka "HealeyRick"

On Sat, Mar 2, 2024 at 8:00?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Pretty low selling price; I wonder if this had much to do with it: 'The
> California title carries a ?Title Only? notation, and the seller reports
> that the car is currently registered as Planned Non-Operational.'
>
> At least they didn't try to pass if off as an M.
>
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-30/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Mar  2 16:01:34 2024
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 18:01:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 on BaT
In-Reply-To: <2006cbde-da97-460b-80ac-b0fcf57c8241@me.com>
References: <3ca2f2d6-1f19-4403-9608-7d92a0677380@comcast.net>
 <5a2b3fa2-a650-47df-9517-c81e921d070d@comcast.net>
 <2006cbde-da97-460b-80ac-b0fcf57c8241@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6bQDgo7-0LaPkQCObqUQHKeZL6jvC4h-gEgY9tF2vLDA@mail.gmail.com>

If I read the sale correctly the seller bought the car for $28K less than a
year earlier.
Considering the work performed by him I'd say he did pretty okay.

Best--Michael Oritt



On Sat, Mar 2, 2024 at 2:52?PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Having a title is key and a "non-op" from the DMV is actually a good thing
> and getting it registered for the road will be simple and less expensive
> with no back registration fees. $48K is not chump change, but it's not
> great either. Most of the "big" sales on BaT have videos of cold starts,
> drives, walk arounds, etc. Wonder if that would have helped? Who knows.
> Seems like the buyer got a good deal.
> Steven Kingsbury
> '55 BN1
>
> On Mar 2, 2024, at 7:23 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Looks prettied up.
> On 3/2/24 3:27 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Pretty low selling price; I wonder if this had much to do with it: 'The
> California title carries a ?Title Only? notation, and the seller reports
> that the car is currently registered as Planned Non-Operational.'
>
> At least they didn't try to pass if off as an M.
>
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1956-austin-healey-100-bn2-roadster-30/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  3 07:25:03 2024
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2024 07:25:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [BMCU] Austin Healey for sale.
In-Reply-To: <5B16BB35-8E80-4545-82B4-EE45D3BC2BC0@gmail.com>
References: <5B16BB35-8E80-4545-82B4-EE45D3BC2BC0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ab20edf9-b877-42f8-b416-2de02f81651f@bradakis.com>


 From our club list here in Salt Lake City.

mjb.

-------- Forwarded Message --------
Subject: [BMCU] Austin Healey for sale.
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 15:11:13 -0700
From: B Davis <wld3rd at gmail.com>
To: BMCU-Members <bmcu-members at googlegroups.com>

To all BMCU folks
	I?ve been asked by a friend that I know for some help in selling a 1955 
BN2. Hoping it can be concluded in a week/next weekend or so if possible.

	Here is a description of:

GOOD THINGS:

It's an Austin Healey BN2

Seats look like they had been reupholstered at some point and appear to 
be in good shape. A carpet kit might have been ordered but it is 
scattered about. Hard to tell if it is all there. At least one door 
panel appears to have been recovered.

Been garaged since it has been in storage.

Has the correct engine in it. Not sure it is the one it was born with.

Appears to have the original radiator.

Hood has been louvered but not in the usual way. This could be either 
good or bad depending upon your personal taste.


NOT SO GOOD THINGS

Has been sitting for at least 20 years and possibly more. As a result, 
the engine appears to be stuck. Tried to get it to move a couple of 
different ways to no avail. Since it cannot be driven, the condition of 
the transmission and the rest of the drivetrain/brakes cannot be assessed.

Needs a complete paint job. Current color is grey primer - car was 
stripped to repaint it and it never finished. It got as far as being 
primer-ed, supposedly professionally not Walmart rattle can paint. In 
the process a good chunk of the exterior bits that were taken off are no 
where to be found. Does have the grill and the headlight rings, rear 
lenses, bumper brackets and bumpers but that was all that could be 
located after a good look see. Original color I think was white but not 
positive. It was a cramped, semi-dark and dusty garage.
Needs completely rewired. Someone started but was using colored house 
wiring and then stopped. Supposedly a proper wiring harness was ordered 
at some point but it is no where to be found at present.

Trans is 4 speed which is good. Not positive but I think some also came 
equipped with 3 speeds. Couldn?t verify it it has an overdrive but there 
doesn?t appear to have the OD switch on the dash.

Car has hit in the left rear corner but but it was not a big one. But it 
was hard enough to bend and rip out a brace which is still un-repaired. 
Think it is the mounting point for the bumper brakets. Someone did pound 
out the dent but not very well so I suspect that there is some bondo in 
that corner. Also there appears to be some bondo in the right rear 
quarter and possibly the rocker panels. Also the right rear corner has a 
metal panel installed in the bottom of the quarter panel. Some welding 
has been done. Not sure what is underneath the panel.

 From what I could see, there is some rust on the undercarriage but my 
opinion is that rust is a moderate issue on this car. Not possible to 
get it on a lift to check closer. Certainly not a rust bucket.

Mileage unknown and what is there cannot be verifed.

No title at present. Car may not have ever been titled and registered in 
the present owners name. Family is selling the car. Would be sold on a 
bill of sale.

	Have some pictures I can send if interested. Contact me directly at 
WLD3RD at gmail.com or 801 860 6975. May be difficult or impossible to 
arrange an in person inspection. 	In conclusion, I would describe this 
as a project but one with good bones.

	Best offer

Bill Davis

	


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
Groups "BMCU-Members" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
an email to bmcu-members+unsubscribe at googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bmcu-members/5B16BB35-8E80-4545-82B4-EE45D3BC2BC0%40gmail.com.

From ryan at jimryan.com  Sun Mar  3 08:27:59 2024
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2024 10:27:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [BMCU] Austin Healey for sale.
In-Reply-To: <ab20edf9-b877-42f8-b416-2de02f81651f@bradakis.com>
References: <5B16BB35-8E80-4545-82B4-EE45D3BC2BC0@gmail.com>
 <ab20edf9-b877-42f8-b416-2de02f81651f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYyfMh0OZNFE+JgDLTzptRPq3FgBtznKQ6x3-JC0ye2U_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Where is it located?

On Sun, Mar 3, 2024 at 9:32?AM Mark Bradakis via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
>  From our club list here in Salt Lake City.
>
> mjb.
>
> -------- Forwarded Message --------
> Subject: [BMCU] Austin Healey for sale.
> Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2024 15:11:13 -0700
> From: B Davis <wld3rd at gmail.com>
> To: BMCU-Members <bmcu-members at googlegroups.com>
>
> To all BMCU folks
>         I?ve been asked by a friend that I know for some help in selling a
> 1955
> BN2. Hoping it can be concluded in a week/next weekend or so if possible.
>
>         Here is a description of:
>
> GOOD THINGS:
>
> It's an Austin Healey BN2
>
> Seats look like they had been reupholstered at some point and appear to
> be in good shape. A carpet kit might have been ordered but it is
> scattered about. Hard to tell if it is all there. At least one door
> panel appears to have been recovered.
>
> Been garaged since it has been in storage.
>
> Has the correct engine in it. Not sure it is the one it was born with.
>
> Appears to have the original radiator.
>
> Hood has been louvered but not in the usual way. This could be either
> good or bad depending upon your personal taste.
>
>
> NOT SO GOOD THINGS
>
> Has been sitting for at least 20 years and possibly more. As a result,
> the engine appears to be stuck. Tried to get it to move a couple of
> different ways to no avail. Since it cannot be driven, the condition of
> the transmission and the rest of the drivetrain/brakes cannot be assessed.
>
> Needs a complete paint job. Current color is grey primer - car was
> stripped to repaint it and it never finished. It got as far as being
> primer-ed, supposedly professionally not Walmart rattle can paint. In
> the process a good chunk of the exterior bits that were taken off are no
> where to be found. Does have the grill and the headlight rings, rear
> lenses, bumper brackets and bumpers but that was all that could be
> located after a good look see. Original color I think was white but not
> positive. It was a cramped, semi-dark and dusty garage.
> Needs completely rewired. Someone started but was using colored house
> wiring and then stopped. Supposedly a proper wiring harness was ordered
> at some point but it is no where to be found at present.
>
> Trans is 4 speed which is good. Not positive but I think some also came
> equipped with 3 speeds. Couldn?t verify it it has an overdrive but there
> doesn?t appear to have the OD switch on the dash.
>
> Car has hit in the left rear corner but but it was not a big one. But it
> was hard enough to bend and rip out a brace which is still un-repaired.
> Think it is the mounting point for the bumper brakets. Someone did pound
> out the dent but not very well so I suspect that there is some bondo in
> that corner. Also there appears to be some bondo in the right rear
> quarter and possibly the rocker panels. Also the right rear corner has a
> metal panel installed in the bottom of the quarter panel. Some welding
> has been done. Not sure what is underneath the panel.
>
>  From what I could see, there is some rust on the undercarriage but my
> opinion is that rust is a moderate issue on this car. Not possible to
> get it on a lift to check closer. Certainly not a rust bucket.
>
> Mileage unknown and what is there cannot be verifed.
>
> No title at present. Car may not have ever been titled and registered in
> the present owners name. Family is selling the car. Would be sold on a
> bill of sale.
>
>         Have some pictures I can send if interested. Contact me directly
> at
> WLD3RD at gmail.com or 801 860 6975. May be difficult or impossible to
> arrange an in person inspection.        In conclusion, I would describe
> this
> as a project but one with good bones.
>
>         Best offer
>
> Bill Davis
>
>
>
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
> Groups "BMCU-Members" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
> an email to bmcu-members+unsubscribe at googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit
>
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/bmcu-members/5B16BB35-8E80-4545-82B4-EE45D3BC2BC0%40gmail.com
> .
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
>
>

-- 

Jim Ryan

????
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  3 09:12:39 2024
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2024 09:12:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [BMCU] Austin Healey for sale.
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYyfMh0OZNFE+JgDLTzptRPq3FgBtznKQ6x3-JC0ye2U_Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5B16BB35-8E80-4545-82B4-EE45D3BC2BC0@gmail.com>
 <ab20edf9-b877-42f8-b416-2de02f81651f@bradakis.com>
 <CAEajuYyfMh0OZNFE+JgDLTzptRPq3FgBtznKQ6x3-JC0ye2U_Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <dc763ad0-afab-4558-9834-eb450c9ae2da@bradakis.com>

On 3/3/24 8:27 AM, Jim Ryan wrote:
> Where is it located?
> 

Sonewhere in the Salt Lake valley.

mjb.


From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar  4 08:34:38 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2024 07:34:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
Message-ID: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar  4 10:37:43 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2024 17:37:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
lol


Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From ryan at jimryan.com  Mon Mar  4 15:23:01 2024
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2024 17:23:01 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYx4xJaeS1N1FV+Q1oHgyjaOZgTK1av9idyOVOg+6C1_Pw@mail.gmail.com>

This is on the rear window of my 2015 Mini Cooper S.


[image: image.png]

I know, there are Six, but the point is the same...


On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 12:44?PM Richard Collins via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car
> thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here
> in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we
> stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
> lol
>
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
> I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
>
>
> https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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-- 

Jim Ryan

????
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Mar  6 17:01:21 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2024 14:01:21 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>

Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if
you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.
https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car
> thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here
> in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we
> stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
> lol
>
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
> I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
>
>
> https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Mar  6 18:56:29 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (Richard Mayor)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2024 17:56:29 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>

Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy. 


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/ <https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/>
> 
> Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
> 
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
> lol
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>  
> I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
> 
> https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars <https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys <http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys>
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com>
> 
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Mar  7 05:47:35 2024
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 07:47:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>

I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy. 

 

 

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> 

 

On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> > wrote:

 

Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/

 

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

 

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol

 

Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals 

 

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
_______________________________________________
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Mar  7 06:16:45 2024
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 13:16:45 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>

In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?

Just curious?.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of ahbn6--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
To: 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy. 

 

 

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> 

 

On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> > wrote:

 

Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/

 

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

 

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol

 

Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440


  _____  


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals 

 

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
_______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Mar  7 07:12:46 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 06:12:46 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <bc7979cf-6672-4012-b735-d8293a3419b1@comcast.net>

No; in the 'States you can take/pass the drivers' test in an automatic 
and still drive stick (at least in California). I tried to convince my 
son to take his test in my BJ8, but he took the easy route in his 4-cyl 
Cherokee with a 5-speed stick.

Even for those otherwise competent with a manual gearbox--I prefer that 
to 'transmission;' my Dad cringed when I called one a 'tranny' and these 
days that could be confusing, I suppose--how many have mastered 'double 
declutching?'? I always did that on a downshift in Dad's '46 Chevy 
2-ton--and the Model As I learned to drive on--but it wasn't until the 
day I sold it* that I realized you needed to double-clutch on an upshift 
from 2nd to 3rd; I'd always tried to get the perfect speed match but 
usually failed.

I sold it to a local petroleum wholesaler who we'd bought fuel from for 
decades. His father had offered to buy it years ago for $5K; he'd since 
died but his son was running the business. I stopped by to see if he was 
interested--it wasn't getting the TLC it deserved though I did use it 
for farm duties on occasion--and told him about his dad's offer and that 
I'd honor that. He looked at the truck and said: "It's worth more than 
that; I'll give you $7,500 ... no, I'll give you $10,000!" I'm not much 
of a negotiator, but I did good on that one ;) Dad said whenever he took 
it to Lowe's there would always be a lady or two admiring it in the 
parking lot; it got more compliments than even his '65 Mustang or '55 
T-Bird (Healeys don't seem to turn heads as much as they used to).

Bob

On 3/7/2024 5:16 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are 
> only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you 
> are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?
>
> Just curious?.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *ahbn6--- via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
> *To:* 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; 'HealeyRick' 
> <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
> *I learned on? a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we 
> called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. 
> Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how 
> to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn 
> how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.*
>
> **
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
> **
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.teamnet 
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Richard Mayor
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
> *To:* HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
> Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not 
> know how to drive a stick. ?But the girl does. The bottom line is: ?If 
> you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.
>
> Richard?Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>     On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having,
>     especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway
>     vehicle.
>     https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/
>
>     Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
>
>     On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>         A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity
>         of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the
>         manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know
>         how to drive a stick.? Maybe we stick owners should get an
>         insurance discount ?
>
>         lol
>
>         Regards,
>         Richard C
>
>         BN7 440
>
>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>         *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
>         Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>         *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
>         *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>         *Subject:* [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>         I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
>
>         https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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>     http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 10:58:42 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 07:58:42 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>

I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in
1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an
automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test
on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye
(frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson.
Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the
cranberry bogs to practice my skills.

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <
simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

> In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only
> licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are
> licenced for both. Is that the same all over?
>
> Just curious?.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *ahbn6---
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
> *To:* 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; 'HealeyRick' <
> healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> *I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called
> automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and
> cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually
> returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a
> manual transmission. You never forget.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Mayor
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
> *To:* HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know
> how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you
> cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if
> you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.
> https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/
>
>
>
> Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car
> thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here
> in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we
> stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
>
> lol
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
>
> BN7 440
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
>
>
> https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Mar  7 11:34:09 2024
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 13:34:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001da70be$0bac2860$23047920$@verizon.net>

I have a better one for you. Early in our marriage our Lincoln Continental gave out and I bought my wife a Honda Civic stick shift (I drove a company car). Anyway I had a devil of a time teaching her to drive a manual transmission. She drove her daughter to school. We lived at the bottom of a hill and the school was at the top. There was a depression at the top to channel water and she finally learned to go up the hill and stop at the channel and stop there resting her front wheels there until traffic cleared without sliding back.

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com> 

Matawan, NJ

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 11:48:27 2024
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 10:48:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a new car in 2023 about the middle of the year due to a rear end
collision of my perfectly running 2012 Honda Accord Coupe.  I bought a
Mazda 3 Hatchback Premium edition because it was one of the few cars you
could buy with a manual 6 speed transmission.  Most of the cars on the
market today are CVT transmissions (no soul) except for high end
performance models and high priced sports cars.  My three British cars all,
of course, are stick shift.  My late Accord was a 5 speed manual
transmission.  The only vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years that was
an automatic was a 2000 Ford F150 I bought new.  The only reason for that
was you couldn't get a manual transmission in Fords trucks with V8 engines
and gas powered.  Not sure about the diesel trucks.  Manual transmissions
serve well as Millennal anti theft devices better than any expensive
electronic unit.
Mike MacLean

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 10:15?AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in
> 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an
> automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test
> on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye
> (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson.
> Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the
> cranberry bogs to practice my skills.
>
> Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
>
> On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>
>> In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only
>> licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are
>> licenced for both. Is that the same all over?
>>
>> Just curious?.
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *ahbn6---
>> via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
>> *To:* 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; 'HealeyRick' <
>> healeyrik at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>>
>>
>>
>> *I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called
>> automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and
>> cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually
>> returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a
>> manual transmission. You never forget.*
>>
>>
>>
>> *John Sims*
>>
>> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>
>> *Matawan, NJ*
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
>> Mayor
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
>> *To:* HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>>
>>
>>
>> Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know
>> how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you
>> cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Richard Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if
>> you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.
>> https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car
>> thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here
>> in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we
>> stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
>>
>> lol
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>> Richard C
>>
>> BN7 440
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob
>> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
>> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>>
>>
>>
>> I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
>>
>>
>> https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 14:14:33 2024
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 16:14:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>

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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Mar  7 14:42:15 2024
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 21:42:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <359730994.1238630.1709847735339@mail.yahoo.com>

 I was at a big gas station recently & I saw an 18 wheeler driver get out of his rig. "I ask how many gears does his trans have." He replied that all new "tractors" have automatic transmissions, much to my surprise!Gary H.    On Thursday, March 7, 2024 at 01:42:37 PM CST, Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I bought a new car in 2023 about the middle of the year due to a rear end collision of my perfectly running 2012 Honda Accord Coupe.? I bought a Mazda 3 Hatchback Premium edition because it was one of the few cars you could buy with a manual 6 speed transmission.? Most of the cars on the market today are CVT transmissions (no soul) except for high end performance models and high priced sports cars.? My three British cars all, of course, are stick shift.? My late Accord was a 5 speed manual transmission.? The only vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years that was an automatic was a 2000 Ford F150 I bought new.? The only reason for that was you couldn't get a manual transmission in Fords trucks with V8 engines and gas powered.? Not sure about the diesel trucks.? Manual transmissions serve well as Millennal anti theft devices better than any expensive electronic unit.Mike MacLean
 
On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 10:15?AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson. Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the cranberry bogs to practice my skills.
Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:


In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?

Just curious?.

Simon

?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of ahbn6--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
To: 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

?

I learned on? a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.

?

John Sims

www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

?

Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.? But the girl does. The bottom line is: ?If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.?

?

?

Richard?Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com

?


On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

?

Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.??https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/

?

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

?

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.? Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol

?

Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals 

?

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
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From rcobb at sonic.net  Thu Mar  7 17:00:25 2024
From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 16:00:25 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
Message-ID: <c1931011-2c27-434a-8b20-ae9831b6bc8d@sonic.net>

This Healey is for sale for the first time since 1955.

I have no financial interest, nor does the gentleman advertising it; he 
is simply helping out the family.? I have known the advertiser for over 
50 years, during which he has owned and restored numerous vehicles, 
including 3 LBCs (non-Healeys) and his observations may be trusted.

The car has been listed today on Craig's List, and a detailed 
description and images may be found at https://tinyurl.com/2xhwbct9

I don't have any further personal knowledge of this Healey other than 
what i have shared here, so please use the contact information in the 
listing referenced above, for further information or to arrange an 
inspection..

Bob




From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar  7 17:29:09 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 00:29:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <SA1PR19MB68951293793042AE55E240BCBF272@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Love it !!!

I've been driving manual all my life but still need to pay attention:

My Healey is 4 speed with elect OD
My 930 Porsche is 5 speed
My GT2 Porsche is a 6 speed

So, it takes a few minutes of adjustment to jump from one to the other;

   lol





Regards,
Richard C440
BN7 #
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Warren Dietz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 1:14 PM
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>; HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals


Nice thread on manual trannys?????..my window sticker for the Healey.



[cid:image001.jpg at 01DA70AA.8ADCD350]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows



From: Michael MacLean<mailto:springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 2:30 PM
To: HealeyRick<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>; Ahealey help<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



I bought a new car in 2023 about the middle of the year due to a rear end collision of my perfectly running 2012 Honda Accord Coupe.  I bought a Mazda 3 Hatchback Premium edition because it was one of the few cars you could buy with a manual 6 speed transmission.  Most of the cars on the market today are CVT transmissions (no soul) except for high end performance models and high priced sports cars.  My three British cars all, of course, are stick shift.  My late Accord was a 5 speed manual transmission.  The only vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years that was an automatic was a 2000 Ford F150 I bought new.  The only reason for that was you couldn't get a manual transmission in Fords trucks with V8 engines and gas powered.  Not sure about the diesel trucks.  Manual transmissions serve well as Millennal anti theft devices better than any expensive electronic unit.

Mike MacLean



On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 10:15?AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>> wrote:

I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson. Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the cranberry bogs to practice my skills.



Rick Neville aka HealeyRick



On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>> wrote:

In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?

Just curious?.

Simon



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of ahbn6--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
To: 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>>; 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.



John Sims

www.healey6.com<http://www.healey6.com/>

Matawan, NJ



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.





Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>



On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>> wrote:



Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/



Rick Neville aka HealeyRick



On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol



Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
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From jim at jimbunte.com  Thu Mar  7 18:01:31 2024
From: jim at jimbunte.com (Jim Bunte)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 19:01:31 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
In-Reply-To: <c1931011-2c27-434a-8b20-ae9831b6bc8d@sonic.net>
References: <c1931011-2c27-434a-8b20-ae9831b6bc8d@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <CAN1UUfU3rrSquSUapeRT=Y0M=7M0owfZ05p=0t35n3kuScg16A@mail.gmail.com>

This is an amazing deal and great description. If I had the money I?d go
for it.


__________________

*Jim Bunte*
jim at jimbunte.com
310-497-7536



On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 6:11 PM RCobb <rcobb at sonic.net> wrote:

> This Healey is for sale for the first time since 1955.
>
> I have no financial interest, nor does the gentleman advertising it; he
> is simply helping out the family.  I have known the advertiser for over
> 50 years, during which he has owned and restored numerous vehicles,
> including 3 LBCs (non-Healeys) and his observations may be trusted.
>
> The car has been listed today on Craig's List, and a detailed
> description and images may be found at https://tinyurl.com/2xhwbct9
>
> I don't have any further personal knowledge of this Healey other than
> what i have shared here, so please use the contact information in the
> listing referenced above, for further information or to arrange an
> inspection..
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim at jimbunte.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 18:23:03 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 20:23:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <SA1PR19MB68951293793042AE55E240BCBF272@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>
 <SA1PR19MB68951293793042AE55E240BCBF272@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK1X-4gUGffTcEO-Xqe1pj6KwM-fihP0DVU=AsdFdZ6oA@mail.gmail.com>

The tricky one is moving from a LHD BN1 (with that reflected shift pattern)
in Canada to a 6 speed RHD VW in the UK. Ask Jean Caron ???

On Thu., Mar. 7, 2024, 8:12 p.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Love it !!!
>
> I've been driving manual all my life but still need to pay attention:
>
> My Healey is 4 speed with elect OD
> My 930 Porsche is 5 speed
> My GT2 Porsche is a 6 speed
>
> So, it takes a few minutes of adjustment to jump from one to the other;
>
>    lol
>
>
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Richard C440
> BN7 #
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Warren
> Dietz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 7, 2024 1:14 PM
> *To:* Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>; HealeyRick <
> healeyrik at gmail.com>; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
> Nice thread on manual trannys?????..my window sticker for the Healey.
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, March 7, 2024 2:30 PM
> *To: *HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>; Ahealey help
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> I bought a new car in 2023 about the middle of the year due to a rear end
> collision of my perfectly running 2012 Honda Accord Coupe.  I bought a
> Mazda 3 Hatchback Premium edition because it was one of the few cars you
> could buy with a manual 6 speed transmission.  Most of the cars on the
> market today are CVT transmissions (no soul) except for high end
> performance models and high priced sports cars.  My three British cars all,
> of course, are stick shift.  My late Accord was a 5 speed manual
> transmission.  The only vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years that was
> an automatic was a 2000 Ford F150 I bought new.  The only reason for that
> was you couldn't get a manual transmission in Fords trucks with V8 engines
> and gas powered.  Not sure about the diesel trucks.  Manual transmissions
> serve well as Millennal anti theft devices better than any expensive
> electronic unit.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 10:15?AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in
> 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an
> automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test
> on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye
> (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson.
> Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the
> cranberry bogs to practice my skills.
>
>
>
> Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>
> In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only
> licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are
> licenced for both. Is that the same all over?
>
> Just curious?.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *ahbn6---
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
> *To:* 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; 'HealeyRick' <
> healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> *I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called
> automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and
> cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually
> returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a
> manual transmission. You never forget.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Mayor
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
> *To:* HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know
> how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you
> cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if
> you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.
> https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/
>
>
>
> Rick Neville aka HealeyRick
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car
> thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here
> in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we
> stick owners should get an insurance discount ?
>
> lol
>
>
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
>
> BN7 440
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>
>
> I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.
>
>
> https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Mar  7 20:41:33 2024
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2024 22:41:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK1X-4gUGffTcEO-Xqe1pj6KwM-fihP0DVU=AsdFdZ6oA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>
 <SA1PR19MB68951293793042AE55E240BCBF272@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LK1X-4gUGffTcEO-Xqe1pj6KwM-fihP0DVU=AsdFdZ6oA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <014201da710a$83ce7bd0$8b6b7370$@sympatico.ca>

My greatest ?manual challenge?, was on bikes, going from my Honda VR1000R (now sold), with a ?one down, 5 up? shift pattern with the shifter on the left and rear brake on the right, to my old Velocettes and BSAs, which were ?one up, three down? pattern with shifter on the right and rear brake on the left.  Many a time I braced myself for an up shift and ended up lurching forward as I hit the rear brake.

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 8:23 PM
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

The tricky one is moving from a LHD BN1 (with that reflected shift pattern) in Canada to a 6 speed RHD VW in the UK. Ask Jean Caron ???

 

On Thu., Mar. 7, 2024, 8:12 p.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Love it !!!

 

I've been driving manual all my life but still need to pay attention:

 

My Healey is 4 speed with elect OD

My 930 Porsche is 5 speed

My GT2 Porsche is a 6 speed

 

So, it takes a few minutes of adjustment to jump from one to the other;

 

   lol




 

 

Regards,
Richard C440

BN7 #

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Warren Dietz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 1:14 PM
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com <mailto:springer.mike51 at gmail.com> >; HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals 

 

Nice thread on manual trannys?????..my window sticker for the Healey.

 



Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

From: Michael MacLean <mailto:springer.mike51 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 2:30 PM
To: HealeyRick <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> ; Ahealey help <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

I bought a new car in 2023 about the middle of the year due to a rear end collision of my perfectly running 2012 Honda Accord Coupe.  I bought a Mazda 3 Hatchback Premium edition because it was one of the few cars you could buy with a manual 6 speed transmission.  Most of the cars on the market today are CVT transmissions (no soul) except for high end performance models and high priced sports cars.  My three British cars all, of course, are stick shift.  My late Accord was a 5 speed manual transmission.  The only vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years that was an automatic was a 2000 Ford F150 I bought new.  The only reason for that was you couldn't get a manual transmission in Fords trucks with V8 engines and gas powered.  Not sure about the diesel trucks.  Manual transmissions serve well as Millennal anti theft devices better than any expensive electronic unit.

Mike MacLean

 

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 10:15?AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> > wrote:

I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson. Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the cranberry bogs to practice my skills.

 

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

 

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> > wrote:

In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?

Just curious?.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of ahbn6--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
To: 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >; 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy. 

 

 

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> 

 

On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> > wrote:

 

Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/

 

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

 

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol

 

Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals 

 

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com

 

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com

 

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu Mar  7 21:17:50 2024
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 04:17:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK1X-4gUGffTcEO-Xqe1pj6KwM-fihP0DVU=AsdFdZ6oA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>
 <SA1PR19MB68951293793042AE55E240BCBF272@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LK1X-4gUGffTcEO-Xqe1pj6KwM-fihP0DVU=AsdFdZ6oA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB6078A5F807964B77C4ACA4A3D1272@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Exactly Michael. However with your assistance, I managed to do it after a few days.

Jean
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: March 8, 2024 1:23 AM
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

The tricky one is moving from a LHD BN1 (with that reflected shift pattern) in Canada to a 6 speed RHD VW in the UK. Ask Jean Caron ???

On Thu., Mar. 7, 2024, 8:12 p.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Love it !!!

I've been driving manual all my life but still need to pay attention:

My Healey is 4 speed with elect OD
My 930 Porsche is 5 speed
My GT2 Porsche is a 6 speed

So, it takes a few minutes of adjustment to jump from one to the other;

   lol





Regards,
Richard C440
BN7 #
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Warren Dietz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 1:14 PM
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com<mailto:springer.mike51 at gmail.com>>; HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>>; Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals


Nice thread on manual trannys?????..my window sticker for the Healey.



[cid:image001.jpg at 01DA70AA.8ADCD350]

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows



From: Michael MacLean<mailto:springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 2:30 PM
To: HealeyRick<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>; Ahealey help<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



I bought a new car in 2023 about the middle of the year due to a rear end collision of my perfectly running 2012 Honda Accord Coupe.  I bought a Mazda 3 Hatchback Premium edition because it was one of the few cars you could buy with a manual 6 speed transmission.  Most of the cars on the market today are CVT transmissions (no soul) except for high end performance models and high priced sports cars.  My three British cars all, of course, are stick shift.  My late Accord was a 5 speed manual transmission.  The only vehicle I have owned in the last 40 years that was an automatic was a 2000 Ford F150 I bought new.  The only reason for that was you couldn't get a manual transmission in Fords trucks with V8 engines and gas powered.  Not sure about the diesel trucks.  Manual transmissions serve well as Millennal anti theft devices better than any expensive electronic unit.

Mike MacLean



On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 10:15?AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>> wrote:

I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson. Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the cranberry bogs to practice my skills.



Rick Neville aka HealeyRick



On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>> wrote:

In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?

Just curious?.

Simon



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of ahbn6--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
To: 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>>; 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.



John Sims

www.healey6.com<http://www.healey6.com/>

Matawan, NJ



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy.





Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>



On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com<mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>> wrote:



Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/



Rick Neville aka HealeyRick



On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol



Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals



I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
_______________________________________________
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From cgmoog at optonline.net  Thu Mar  7 21:20:09 2024
From: cgmoog at optonline.net (cgmoog)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2024 23:20:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <000001da70be$0bac2860$23047920$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <65C6475F052E014C@altprdrgo05.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net>
 (added by postmaster@optonline.net)

The story of my father prepping my mother for her driver's test. After teaching mom to drive, my father drove the test area with her riding shot gun, NYC tests new drivers on the street in designated neighborhoods. There was a stop sign at the top of a hill. There was also a recently filled in utility trench, creating a depression on the right side of the travel lane. His instructions to mom were to place the right front wheel in the depression so that there would be no roll back (a failing offense) when stopping during the test.
-------- Original message --------From: ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Date: 3/7/24  1:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com>, 'Simon Lachlan' <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals I have a better one for you. Early in our marriage our Lincoln Continental gave out and I bought my wife a Honda Civic stick shift (I drove a company car). Anyway I had a devil of a time teaching her to drive a manual transmission. She drove her daughter to school. We lived at the bottom of a hill and the school was at the top. There was a depression at the top to channel water and she finally learned to go up the hill and stop at the channel and stop there resting her front wheels there until traffic cleared without sliding back.?John Simswww.healey6.comMatawan, NJ
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar  8 07:54:55 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 06:54:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <65C6475F052E014C@altprdrgo05.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net>
References: <65C6475F052E014C@altprdrgo05.altice.prod.msg.synchronoss.net>
Message-ID: <4383c763-cfb3-434d-bdb5-f7121399e342@comcast.net>

One of my scariest Healey moments was driving up Gough--pronounced 
'Goff' I'm told--which is the backside approach to the famous Lombard 
Street ('The Crookedest Road in the World'). There are several 4-way 
stops to the 'summit.' Expecting the worst, I made sure to stop a car 
length or more behind the cars in front of me but on one there was a 
woman in a Volvo station wagon--you know the type ;)--who, when she 
tried going through the intersection couldn't get traction and started 
rolling back towards with her front tires spinning wildly toward my BJ8. 
My first thought was: "Hmmm, I didn't know Volvo made FWD cars," which 
immediately changed to: "Oh shit! She's going to front-end me!" I don't 
recall if there was a car behind me, but I probably couldn't have 
reacted in time anyway but, when she was just a foot or so away from my 
front bumper she was finally able to pull away, front tires still spinning.

My Mustang has 'hill assist,' and it's kind of cheating but I use it; I 
still get plenty of practice in my Healeys. The big drums in back make 
better parking/emergency brakes than most modern cars have (including my 
Mustang, whose p-brake is pretty wimpy).


On 3/7/2024 8:20 PM, cgmoog wrote:
> The story of my father prepping my mother for her driver's test. After 
> teaching mom to drive, my father drove the test area with her riding 
> shot gun, NYC tests new drivers on the street in designated 
> neighborhoods. There was a stop sign at the top of a hill. There was 
> also a recently filled in utility trench, creating a depression on the 
> right side of the travel lane. His instructions to mom were to place 
> the right front wheel in the depression so that there would be no roll 
> back (a failing offense) when stopping during the test.
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/7/24 1:34 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com>, 'Simon Lachlan' 
> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
>
>     *I have a better one for you. Early in our marriage our Lincoln
>     Continental gave out and I bought my wife a Honda Civic stick
>     shift (I drove a company car). Anyway I had a devil of a time
>     teaching her to drive a manual transmission. She drove her
>     daughter to school. We lived at the bottom of a hill and the
>     school was at the top. There was a depression at the top to
>     channel water and she finally learned to go up the hill and stop
>     at the channel and stop there resting her front wheels there until
>     traffic cleared without sliding back.*
>
>     **
>
>     *John Sims*
>
>     *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com>*
>
>     *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Fri Mar  8 08:16:31 2024
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 10:16:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
In-Reply-To: <CAN1UUfU3rrSquSUapeRT=Y0M=7M0owfZ05p=0t35n3kuScg16A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1931011-2c27-434a-8b20-ae9831b6bc8d@sonic.net>
 <CAN1UUfU3rrSquSUapeRT=Y0M=7M0owfZ05p=0t35n3kuScg16A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYyFsPdzVwZQ6GzVg8xKUn56Go0AikK=8FGZvO=F8_EPpQ@mail.gmail.com>

All I can say is WOW.  I wonder how much I could get for my right arm?

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 8:54?PM Jim Bunte via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> This is an amazing deal and great description. If I had the money I?d go
> for it.
>
>
> __________________
>
> *Jim Bunte*
> jim at jimbunte.com
> 310-497-7536
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 6:11 PM RCobb <rcobb at sonic.net> wrote:
>
>> This Healey is for sale for the first time since 1955.
>>
>> I have no financial interest, nor does the gentleman advertising it; he
>> is simply helping out the family.  I have known the advertiser for over
>> 50 years, during which he has owned and restored numerous vehicles,
>> including 3 LBCs (non-Healeys) and his observations may be trusted.
>>
>> The car has been listed today on Craig's List, and a detailed
>> description and images may be found at https://tinyurl.com/2xhwbct9
>>
>> I don't have any further personal knowledge of this Healey other than
>> what i have shared here, so please use the contact information in the
>> listing referenced above, for further information or to arrange an
>> inspection..
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jim at jimbunte.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
>

-- 

Jim Ryan

????
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Mar  8 10:07:00 2024
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 17:07:00 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001da717b$0a2369a0$1e6a3ce0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

In a UK based regiment so we had RHD vehicles, mostly ? ton landrovers and 4 ton Bedfords. The wartime role for which we trained was up on the West/East German border. So???when we went over to Germany, we took all our RHDs and picked up approx. the same number of our allocated ?War Store? vehicles, all of which were LHD. I was in charge of our squadron?s vehicles. So???.after, say, a good lunch one went out and grabbed a vehicle. Whichever one it was, it always seemed to have the wheel in the wrong place. Certainly different from the one that one used in the morning. Confusing. Surprised that we didn?t have more accidents.

I was a guest once of a cavalry regt. In Germany. They were fresh out from England. Cut a long story short?.at a t-junction there was an almighty cock-up with a Mercedes caught between 3 tanks. Front, rear and passenger?s side. All in slow motion on ice. Car was about 2ft shorter at each end and along the side. Driver was too shaken to make much of a fuss. Tanks completely undamaged!

Simon

 

From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 5:59 PM
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: ahbn6 at verizon.net; Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

I grew up in Massachusetts and when I was getting my driver's license in 1966 the law had just changed to allow drivers who got their license on an automatic to drive a manual. Before that unless you took your driver's test on a manual, you couldn't drive one. In 1967, I bought my cousin's bugeye (frogeye) and she gave me about a half-hour manual driving lesson. Fortunately, I lived in the country and lots of back roads amongst the cranberry bogs to practice my skills.

 

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

 

On Thu, Mar 7, 2024 at 3:16?AM Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> > wrote:

In the UK, if you take and pass(!) your test in an automatic you are only licenced to drive an automatic. If you pass in a stick shift, you are licenced for both. Is that the same all over?

Just curious?.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of ahbn6--- via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2024 12:48 PM
To: 'Richard Mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >; 'HealeyRick' <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

I learned on  a stick. Then spent 30 years on a slush box (as we called automatic transmissions in my day) then bought my Healey. Started it up and cruised with no problems. Obviously knowledge of how to shift manually returned in an instant. Moral is, better to learn how to drive with a manual transmission. You never forget.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Richard Mayor
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2024 8:56 PM
To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals

 

Just watched another series (?The Tourist?) where the guy does not know how to drive a stick.  But the girl does. The bottom line is:  If you cannot drive a stick then you are not a real car guy. 

 

 

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> 

 

On Mar 6, 2024, at 4:01 PM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com> > wrote:

 

Being able to drive a stick is a life-skill worth having, especially if you're a bank robber trying to hijack a getaway vehicle.  https://www.cbsnews.com/boston/news/malden-carjacking-victim-says-stick-shift-saved-her-baby/

 

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

 

On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 8:18?AM Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

A good one; of course in the UK, they don't have the quantity of car thieves we do in the States. So the advantage of the manual at least here in the States is that few thieves know how to drive a stick.  Maybe we stick owners should get an insurance discount ?

lol

 

Regards,
Richard C

BN7 440


  _____  


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2024 7:34 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals 

 

I love Brit humor almost as much as I love their old cars.

https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2024/mar/04/drivers-manual-gearboxes-dvla-automatic-cars
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Fri Mar  8 10:49:27 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 09:49:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYyFsPdzVwZQ6GzVg8xKUn56Go0AikK=8FGZvO=F8_EPpQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c1931011-2c27-434a-8b20-ae9831b6bc8d@sonic.net>
 <CAN1UUfU3rrSquSUapeRT=Y0M=7M0owfZ05p=0t35n3kuScg16A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYyFsPdzVwZQ6GzVg8xKUn56Go0AikK=8FGZvO=F8_EPpQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AEBC69BF-2864-4667-A33B-7CD70FC56DF7@gmail.com>

No body damage?  Just typical cracks in the aluminum?  Seriously?   It looks more like typical cracks in quarter-inch or more of bondo.  Nevertheless, $22 K looks very reasonable.  Is it even still for sale?


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com



> On Mar 8, 2024, at 7:16 AM, Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:
> 
> 

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From airtightproductions at me.com  Fri Mar  8 13:28:32 2024
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 20:28:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Be careful out there
Message-ID: <67293322-fbe0-4511-857c-7bd1e3fac2ad@me.com>

I just got an email, supposedly from the list, asking me to click on a link to photos of fellow Healey drivers. Big scam alert, so be on the lookout and don't click on anything without knowing exactly where it came from. Cheers! Steven Kingsbury '55 BN1
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Mar  8 17:17:35 2024
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard  Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 16:17:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] [O/T] Manuals
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR11MB6078A5F807964B77C4ACA4A3D1272@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <d02f2edc-d2d5-4bc6-8e87-f1b395e5021b@comcast.net>
 <SA1PR19MB6895973A262556B18E1C8171BF232@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAGfzsZcQNvbe5yTQn_fFQSGs56Qz8EWV__igVF3W+wuMVVrQbg@mail.gmail.com>
 <91CFA21F-532B-4EFE-8E64-7B9D094F7C9D@gmail.com>
 <000f01da708d$a1427e00$e3c77a00$@verizon.net>
 <000a01da7091$b54be630$1fe3b290$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAGfzsZcSQn86uxXg1mQxxRRbMKTYqLRDGJo4PHLgewaHTtnpTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOMFPygoAnA081=V-TL4nmjNLmAnXQ8ti+0cBhJVAXPmWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <D82A02AE-A0EA-4D78-BE20-953C2D4E1D02@hxcore.ol>
 <SA1PR19MB68951293793042AE55E240BCBF272@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LK1X-4gUGffTcEO-Xqe1pj6KwM-fihP0DVU=AsdFdZ6oA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR11MB6078A5F807964B77C4ACA4A3D1272@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <226EF5104E9F4BCA87F8CE5881860A02@MargaretPC>


Learned to drive and got my first driver's license in San Francisco in my father's 1936 Nash (I think. I remember that it had two spark plugs per cylinder) Need to learn about roll-back? That's the place to do it. No automatic transmission back then. The other thing I remember was that when my father did get a car with automatic transmission, he failed his license renewal. He used his left foot on the brake during the driving test. When he went back for his second try, he held his left trouser leg with his left hand so he would not make the same mistake.

The Other Len
1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII BJ8
HBJ8L39031 

---
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar  8 18:12:20 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2024 17:12:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
In-Reply-To: <AEBC69BF-2864-4667-A33B-7CD70FC56DF7@gmail.com>
References: <c1931011-2c27-434a-8b20-ae9831b6bc8d@sonic.net>
 <CAN1UUfU3rrSquSUapeRT=Y0M=7M0owfZ05p=0t35n3kuScg16A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYyFsPdzVwZQ6GzVg8xKUn56Go0AikK=8FGZvO=F8_EPpQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <AEBC69BF-2864-4667-A33B-7CD70FC56DF7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7c6153be-b13b-4c0a-8fcd-0e99da9a2852@comcast.net>

Looks like some nasty stuff underneath (note I haven't taken a thorough 
look).

Reminds me a lot of the BN2 (100M) my dad found in the local fishwrap. 
It had a lot of bondo too, but the undercarriage was better (floorpans 
had only surface rust).

bs

On 3/8/2024 9:49 AM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
> No body damage? ?Just typical cracks in the aluminum? ?Seriously? ? It 
> looks more like typical cracks in quarter-inch or more of bondo. 
> ?Nevertheless, $22 K looks very reasonable. ?Is it even still for sale?
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
>> On Mar 8, 2024, at 7:16 AM, Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>
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From rcobb at sonic.net  Sat Mar  9 08:17:08 2024
From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2024 07:17:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
Message-ID: <fd15066f-80fc-4b19-a8be-85721d897b04@sonic.net>

I just received information that the AH BN1 has been sold.


From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Mar 10 11:11:10 2024
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 10:11:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil - Update and summary
Message-ID: <CALPtYiO==WBkhyOJP3BGo0=rnxfFMHwY7CA-auj2aQ5VOnQz4w@mail.gmail.com>

 *Issue* ? 67 BJ8 with about 15k mi on rebuilt engine by PO.

A few months back when setting tappets noted the dreaded creamy gunge on
the inside of the valve cover indicative of glycol and moisture in the oil.

Have lost several engines (not AH) over the years due to this phenomenon
and am a little paranoid about glycol in the oil. No evidence of oil in
coolant. Compression normal.

Took oil sample to the CAT lab and came back positive with 1332 ppm glycol
and 240 ppm sodium. About 1500 mi on the sample

*Step #1*

So, drained oil completely including the oil cooler (pia) plus filter. Re
torqued head and added some Bars leak stuff to the rad. Drove 420 mi and
did retest. Still positive for glycol at 557 ppm and 55 sodium

*Step #2*

Head off; planed, pressure test and freshen by machine shop; new hi end
gasket; new ARP studs; piston tops cleaned; new gaskets all round. Drained
oil completely again and also new coolant. BTW use 20% glycol in RO water
plus No-Rosion. Drove 420 mi again and retest. Some improvement but still
positive. Above the lab. flag level of 500 ppm (glycol) and 25 ppm (sodium)
at 609 ppm glycol and 29 sodium. Just on edge as they only do glycol
analysis if sodium is above 25 ppm. For interest this translates into
3.25ml (less than a teaspoon) glycol or 16.26ml for coolant to trigger the
flag. Must be bad stuff.

*Step #3*

Coolant pressure test. Drops 3 psi from 13 psi in 14 hours. Done at 65F.
This seems to indicate a small leak ?

*My thoughts:*

   1.

   small crack in block or head that opens up with heat ? Block more likely.
   2.

   unlikely to be the known AH block porosity problem with the galleries,
   as oil at 50 psi and the coolant is at less than 7psi and there is no
   evidence of oil in coolant. Must be in the gravity oil return path to the
   oil pan someplace.
   3.

   plan to run with no glycol in coolant; am located on mild west coast and
   heated garage; change oil more frequently. Hopefully any water will
   evaporate off. My understanding is that water is less of a problem than
   glycol in the oil ?
   4.

   consider trying a coolant leak sealant again.
   5.

   maybe next winter pull oil pan and hunt for the leak from downstairs
   with coolant under pressure with a view to doing an epoxy repair ? Wonder
   if others have heard of this or there is a* ?known? *area of block
   weakness ?


So, would welcome *any* ideas/thoughts/suggestions

rg

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Mar 10 11:46:20 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 17:46:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil - Update and summary
Message-ID: <940457e7-9967-afc1-d678-3a1a188554aa@charter.net>

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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 12:10:21 2024
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 18:10:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil - Update and summary
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO==WBkhyOJP3BGo0=rnxfFMHwY7CA-auj2aQ5VOnQz4w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiO==WBkhyOJP3BGo0=rnxfFMHwY7CA-auj2aQ5VOnQz4w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVcnHke8arFOs9YJO69KKcuZTLMC5_C9crGq1roday4vQ@mail.gmail.com>

Roger

I had a 4-cylinder block rebored. It was then pressure tested and a tiny
pinhole was found in the wall of one cylinder. This was fixed by fitting a
liner. If left as it was I assume that coolant would have leaked into the
cylinder and then worked its way into the oil in the sump.

My engine rebuilder carried out a leakage test. I am very grateful that he
did. The fitting of the liner cost a little more but it was money well
spent.

On Sun, 10 Mar 2024 at 17:28, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> *Issue* ? 67 BJ8 with about 15k mi on rebuilt engine by PO.
>
> A few months back when setting tappets noted the dreaded creamy gunge on
> the inside of the valve cover indicative of glycol and moisture in the oil.
>
> Have lost several engines (not AH) over the years due to this phenomenon
> and am a little paranoid about glycol in the oil. No evidence of oil in
> coolant. Compression normal.
>
> Took oil sample to the CAT lab and came back positive with 1332 ppm glycol
> and 240 ppm sodium. About 1500 mi on the sample
>
> *Step #1*
>
> So, drained oil completely including the oil cooler (pia) plus filter. Re
> torqued head and added some Bars leak stuff to the rad. Drove 420 mi and
> did retest. Still positive for glycol at 557 ppm and 55 sodium
>
> *Step #2*
>
> Head off; planed, pressure test and freshen by machine shop; new hi end
> gasket; new ARP studs; piston tops cleaned; new gaskets all round. Drained
> oil completely again and also new coolant. BTW use 20% glycol in RO water
> plus No-Rosion. Drove 420 mi again and retest. Some improvement but still
> positive. Above the lab. flag level of 500 ppm (glycol) and 25 ppm (sodium)
> at 609 ppm glycol and 29 sodium. Just on edge as they only do glycol
> analysis if sodium is above 25 ppm. For interest this translates into
> 3.25ml (less than a teaspoon) glycol or 16.26ml for coolant to trigger the
> flag. Must be bad stuff.
>
> *Step #3*
>
> Coolant pressure test. Drops 3 psi from 13 psi in 14 hours. Done at 65F.
> This seems to indicate a small leak ?
>
> *My thoughts:*
>
>    1.
>
>    small crack in block or head that opens up with heat ? Block more
>    likely.
>    2.
>
>    unlikely to be the known AH block porosity problem with the galleries,
>    as oil at 50 psi and the coolant is at less than 7psi and there is no
>    evidence of oil in coolant. Must be in the gravity oil return path to the
>    oil pan someplace.
>    3.
>
>    plan to run with no glycol in coolant; am located on mild west coast
>    and heated garage; change oil more frequently. Hopefully any water will
>    evaporate off. My understanding is that water is less of a problem than
>    glycol in the oil ?
>    4.
>
>    consider trying a coolant leak sealant again.
>    5.
>
>    maybe next winter pull oil pan and hunt for the leak from downstairs
>    with coolant under pressure with a view to doing an epoxy repair ? Wonder
>    if others have heard of this or there is a* ?known? *area of block
>    weakness ?
>
>
> So, would welcome *any* ideas/thoughts/suggestions
>
> rg
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#m_-7941310222135778742_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 12:13:33 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 14:13:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil - Update and summary
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO==WBkhyOJP3BGo0=rnxfFMHwY7CA-auj2aQ5VOnQz4w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiO==WBkhyOJP3BGo0=rnxfFMHwY7CA-auj2aQ5VOnQz4w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ-wTyRsc1v7EJCHXPZKrgTLjiSUzZ4chG8=PYNPomYUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Many years ago we had a similar issue with an MGB engine Roger.
We essentially did all the things that you have described with similar
results.
Eventually we took off the rad and heater hoses and installed plugs,
removed the water pump and made a blanking plate for the water pump face
and then with the cooling system filled with water containing a fluorescent
dye pressurized the system to around 100 p.s.i.
The leak was then revealed to be at the bottom of what appeared to be a
factory installed cylinder sleeve.
A very time consuming and frustrating process.

M

On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 1:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> *Issue* ? 67 BJ8 with about 15k mi on rebuilt engine by PO.
>
> A few months back when setting tappets noted the dreaded creamy gunge on
> the inside of the valve cover indicative of glycol and moisture in the oil.
>
> Have lost several engines (not AH) over the years due to this phenomenon
> and am a little paranoid about glycol in the oil. No evidence of oil in
> coolant. Compression normal.
>
> Took oil sample to the CAT lab and came back positive with 1332 ppm glycol
> and 240 ppm sodium. About 1500 mi on the sample
>
> *Step #1*
>
> So, drained oil completely including the oil cooler (pia) plus filter. Re
> torqued head and added some Bars leak stuff to the rad. Drove 420 mi and
> did retest. Still positive for glycol at 557 ppm and 55 sodium
>
> *Step #2*
>
> Head off; planed, pressure test and freshen by machine shop; new hi end
> gasket; new ARP studs; piston tops cleaned; new gaskets all round. Drained
> oil completely again and also new coolant. BTW use 20% glycol in RO water
> plus No-Rosion. Drove 420 mi again and retest. Some improvement but still
> positive. Above the lab. flag level of 500 ppm (glycol) and 25 ppm (sodium)
> at 609 ppm glycol and 29 sodium. Just on edge as they only do glycol
> analysis if sodium is above 25 ppm. For interest this translates into
> 3.25ml (less than a teaspoon) glycol or 16.26ml for coolant to trigger the
> flag. Must be bad stuff.
>
> *Step #3*
>
> Coolant pressure test. Drops 3 psi from 13 psi in 14 hours. Done at 65F.
> This seems to indicate a small leak ?
>
> *My thoughts:*
>
>    1.
>
>    small crack in block or head that opens up with heat ? Block more
>    likely.
>    2.
>
>    unlikely to be the known AH block porosity problem with the galleries,
>    as oil at 50 psi and the coolant is at less than 7psi and there is no
>    evidence of oil in coolant. Must be in the gravity oil return path to the
>    oil pan someplace.
>    3.
>
>    plan to run with no glycol in coolant; am located on mild west coast
>    and heated garage; change oil more frequently. Hopefully any water will
>    evaporate off. My understanding is that water is less of a problem than
>    glycol in the oil ?
>    4.
>
>    consider trying a coolant leak sealant again.
>    5.
>
>    maybe next winter pull oil pan and hunt for the leak from downstairs
>    with coolant under pressure with a view to doing an epoxy repair ? Wonder
>    if others have heard of this or there is a* ?known? *area of block
>    weakness ?
>
>
> So, would welcome *any* ideas/thoughts/suggestions
>
> rg
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#m_-209268421894526644_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 12:39:48 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 14:39:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Illusive parts numbers
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>

I have spent many many hours over the last 40 years looking up part numbers
in Austin Healey Parts Manuals.
In all that time I have only EVER come across 2 parts for which a part
number could not be found.
If you are looking for something to do while you wait for spring see if you
can find original part numbers for either of these:
The first is the metal disc (plugs) used on the 2 seat 6 cylinder cars
which need to be removed to access the nuts on the studs which secure the
boot hinges to the rear shroud. These are about 3" in diameter and have a
spring steel retaining bar.
The other is a bracket used in the 100's (about 10" long) that runs between
the steering column steady bracket and the dash (facia) panel. These seem
to have been used on both BN1's and BN2's.

M
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 14:54:58 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (Richard Mayor)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 13:54:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Illusive parts numbers
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9D6D2506-18C5-48FE-91F4-ECEA131B62AB@gmail.com>

I have an idea that might help regarding the 3? metal disc.  The Jaguar MK VII has a similar disc(s) under the rear seat. I can?t say if it is actually 3? but I do recall seeing it (around 30 years ago) and thinking it was just like the ones in the 2 seater 3000s. 


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Mar 10, 2024, at 11:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have spent many many hours over the last 40 years looking up part numbers in Austin Healey Parts Manuals.
> In all that time I have only EVER come across 2 parts for which a part number could not be found.
> If you are looking for something to do while you wait for spring see if you can find original part numbers for either of these:
> The first is the metal disc (plugs) used on the 2 seat 6 cylinder cars which need to be removed to access the nuts on the studs which secure the boot hinges to the rear shroud. These are about 3" in diameter and have a spring steel retaining bar.
> The other is a bracket used in the 100's (about 10" long) that runs between the steering column steady bracket and the dash (facia) panel. These seem to have been used on both BN1's and BN2's.
> 
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 

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From rcobb at sonic.net  Sun Mar 10 15:59:59 2024
From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 14:59:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Manual: learning to stop and start on steep streets
Message-ID: <cf1fbcea-1579-4f26-a54a-2e5d03e44052@sonic.net>

This (non-Healey) picture seems apropos after reading some listers' 
experiences learning to drive a stick on steep streets:

The attached image is from an Australian Pre-War Buick periodical and it 
shows a 1923 San Francisco street scene.? Many, of either gender and 
regardless of proficiency, might seek a less challenging path to reach 
their destination.

Bob
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Sun Mar 10 16:05:26 2024
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 18:05:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Illusive parts numbers
In-Reply-To: <9D6D2506-18C5-48FE-91F4-ECEA131B62AB@gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <9D6D2506-18C5-48FE-91F4-ECEA131B62AB@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYyA058za9jYJ7Bdn6OJgpA1vG7zt8PPxbTpzY+PZqknNA@mail.gmail.com>

Is the first on page 158 here <https://tinyurl.com/23jesbvu>? #34?

Link is safe...

On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 5:06?PM Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have an idea that might help regarding the 3? metal disc.  The Jaguar MK
> VII has a similar disc(s) under the rear seat. I can?t say if it is
> actually 3? but I do recall seeing it (around 30 years ago) and thinking it
> was just like the ones in the 2 seater 3000s.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> On Mar 10, 2024, at 11:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have spent many many hours over the last 40 years looking up part
> numbers in Austin Healey Parts Manuals.
> In all that time I have only EVER come across 2 parts for which a part
> number could not be found.
> If you are looking for something to do while you wait for spring see if
> you can find original part numbers for either of these:
> The first is the metal disc (plugs) used on the 2 seat 6 cylinder cars
> which need to be removed to access the nuts on the studs which secure the
> boot hinges to the rear shroud. These are about 3" in diameter and have a
> spring steel retaining bar.
> The other is a bracket used in the 100's (about 10" long) that runs
> between the steering column steady bracket and the dash (facia) panel.
> These seem to have been used on both BN1's and BN2's.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
>
>

-- 

Jim Ryan

????
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 16:27:09 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 18:27:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Illusive parts numbers
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYyA058za9jYJ7Bdn6OJgpA1vG7zt8PPxbTpzY+PZqknNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <9D6D2506-18C5-48FE-91F4-ECEA131B62AB@gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYyA058za9jYJ7Bdn6OJgpA1vG7zt8PPxbTpzY+PZqknNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK1tCrV-8mKeeMf87rjn97pYTEtqFRqpw+WyQgpPe4RJA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Jim, no that is a "Reinforcement bracket" 14B9662/3 installed to prevent
the hinge fron distorting the shroud (often missing from restored cars).
The "plug is directly below that.

On Sun., Mar. 10, 2024, 6:06 p.m. Jim Ryan, <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:

> Is the first on page 158 here <https://tinyurl.com/23jesbvu>? #34?
>
> Link is safe...
>
> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 5:06?PM Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have an idea that might help regarding the 3? metal disc.  The Jaguar
>> MK VII has a similar disc(s) under the rear seat. I can?t say if it is
>> actually 3? but I do recall seeing it (around 30 years ago) and thinking it
>> was just like the ones in the 2 seater 3000s.
>>
>>
>> Richard Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> On Mar 10, 2024, at 11:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I have spent many many hours over the last 40 years looking up part
>> numbers in Austin Healey Parts Manuals.
>> In all that time I have only EVER come across 2 parts for which a part
>> number could not be found.
>> If you are looking for something to do while you wait for spring see if
>> you can find original part numbers for either of these:
>> The first is the metal disc (plugs) used on the 2 seat 6 cylinder cars
>> which need to be removed to access the nuts on the studs which secure the
>> boot hinges to the rear shroud. These are about 3" in diameter and have a
>> spring steel retaining bar.
>> The other is a bracket used in the 100's (about 10" long) that runs
>> between the steering column steady bracket and the dash (facia) panel.
>> These seem to have been used on both BN1's and BN2's.
>>
>> M
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
>>
>>
>
> --
>
> Jim Ryan
>
> ????
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 20:12:15 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 19:12:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Illusive parts numbers
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK1tCrV-8mKeeMf87rjn97pYTEtqFRqpw+WyQgpPe4RJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <9D6D2506-18C5-48FE-91F4-ECEA131B62AB@gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYyA058za9jYJ7Bdn6OJgpA1vG7zt8PPxbTpzY+PZqknNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LK1tCrV-8mKeeMf87rjn97pYTEtqFRqpw+WyQgpPe4RJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ED383891-9E00-4921-B33B-7C86E2910A29@gmail.com>

Here?s a photo of the disc from my BN7.  I believe the one I saw in the MK VII Jag has a larger diameter.

?
Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com



> On Mar 10, 2024, at 3:27 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Jim, no that is a "Reinforcement bracket" 14B9662/3 installed to prevent the hinge fron distorting the shroud (often missing from restored cars). The "plug is directly below that.
> 
> On Sun., Mar. 10, 2024, 6:06 p.m. Jim Ryan, <ryan at jimryan.com <mailto:ryan at jimryan.com>> wrote:
>> Is the first on page 158 here <https://tinyurl.com/23jesbvu>? #34?
>> 
>> Link is safe...
>> 
>> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 5:06?PM Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>> I have an idea that might help regarding the 3? metal disc.  The Jaguar MK VII has a similar disc(s) under the rear seat. I can?t say if it is actually 3? but I do recall seeing it (around 30 years ago) and thinking it was just like the ones in the 2 seater 3000s. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Richard Mayor
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 10, 2024, at 11:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> I have spent many many hours over the last 40 years looking up part numbers in Austin Healey Parts Manuals.
>>>> In all that time I have only EVER come across 2 parts for which a part number could not be found.
>>>> If you are looking for something to do while you wait for spring see if you can find original part numbers for either of these:
>>>> The first is the metal disc (plugs) used on the 2 seat 6 cylinder cars which need to be removed to access the nuts on the studs which secure the boot hinges to the rear shroud. These are about 3" in diameter and have a spring steel retaining bar.
>>>> The other is a bracket used in the 100's (about 10" long) that runs between the steering column steady bracket and the dash (facia) panel. These seem to have been used on both BN1's and BN2's.
>>>> 
>>>> M
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Jim Ryan
>> 
>> ????
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 20:15:54 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 22:15:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Illusive parts numbers
In-Reply-To: <ED383891-9E00-4921-B33B-7C86E2910A29@gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+kLqnXX6ih5+YucuGeoJTkYh3go6y4n0Lsn+ymC3HA0w@mail.gmail.com>
 <9D6D2506-18C5-48FE-91F4-ECEA131B62AB@gmail.com>
 <CAEajuYyA058za9jYJ7Bdn6OJgpA1vG7zt8PPxbTpzY+PZqknNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LK1tCrV-8mKeeMf87rjn97pYTEtqFRqpw+WyQgpPe4RJA@mail.gmail.com>
 <ED383891-9E00-4921-B33B-7C86E2910A29@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL_OFoiBbvW5SeSnj+KPTyKXt_-CVb5u7Vh9o593sQLNA@mail.gmail.com>

Yep, that's the thing. I remember that the same plug was used to cover the
gearbox dip stick hole in the gearbox cover of my 100S.

M

On Sun., Mar. 10, 2024, 10:12 p.m. richard mayor, <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Here?s a photo of the disc from my BN7.  I believe the one I saw in the MK
> VII Jag has a larger diameter.
>
> [image: IMG_1715.jpeg]
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Mar 10, 2024, at 3:27 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Jim, no that is a "Reinforcement bracket" 14B9662/3 installed to
> prevent the hinge fron distorting the shroud (often missing from restored
> cars). The "plug is directly below that.
>
> On Sun., Mar. 10, 2024, 6:06 p.m. Jim Ryan, <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:
>
>> Is the first on page 158 here <https://tinyurl.com/23jesbvu>? #34?
>>
>> Link is safe...
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 5:06?PM Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I have an idea that might help regarding the 3? metal disc.  The Jaguar
>>> MK VII has a similar disc(s) under the rear seat. I can?t say if it is
>>> actually 3? but I do recall seeing it (around 30 years ago) and thinking it
>>> was just like the ones in the 2 seater 3000s.
>>>
>>>
>>> Richard Mayor
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mar 10, 2024, at 11:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I have spent many many hours over the last 40 years looking up part
>>> numbers in Austin Healey Parts Manuals.
>>> In all that time I have only EVER come across 2 parts for which a part
>>> number could not be found.
>>> If you are looking for something to do while you wait for spring see if
>>> you can find original part numbers for either of these:
>>> The first is the metal disc (plugs) used on the 2 seat 6 cylinder cars
>>> which need to be removed to access the nuts on the studs which secure the
>>> boot hinges to the rear shroud. These are about 3" in diameter and have a
>>> spring steel retaining bar.
>>> The other is a bracket used in the 100's (about 10" long) that runs
>>> between the steering column steady bracket and the dash (facia) panel.
>>> These seem to have been used on both BN1's and BN2's.
>>>
>>> M
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Jim Ryan
>>
>> ????
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From waschu2 at gmail.com  Sun Mar 10 20:23:35 2024
From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2024 22:23:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
Message-ID: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Roger,
My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
step in locating your problem.    Good luck.

               Wayne
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From rianhey at btinternet.com  Mon Mar 11 04:04:38 2024
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2024 10:04:38 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
Message-ID: <006b01da739b$875ec0f0$961c42d0$@btinternet.com>

When I rebuilt my engine, in order to try to prevent the well documented
leak from oil to coolant for which a repair kit is available, I first had my
block cleaned (dipped in I know not what for a week) followed by resin
vacuum impregnation.  For the UK see
https://www.midlanddeburrandfinish.co.uk/casting-impregnation but I am sure
that similar is available in the USA.

 

This process has the significant advantage that all surfaces of the block
are effectively resin coated, and the water jacket no longer corrodes,
improving heat transfer to the coolant.  However, the dimensions of the
block are not altered - my cam followers run in the original bores without
any machining.  My block was rebored after the above processes, and at least
honing would be advisable.

 

The snag is of course that the engine must be completely disassembled, and
all copper/brass parts are destroyed by the dipping process.  Cam bearings
must therefore be replaced.  I removed my main oil gallery plugs before
dipping, and they are replaced by screwed plugs sealed with the appropriate
grade of Loctite.

 

Ian

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 15:52:21 2024
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 14:52:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>

Hello all,
We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street
cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to
determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ira.

Ira Erbs
Milwaukie, OR
1959 Austin Healey 100-6
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From jtkarowe at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 18:13:26 2024
From: jtkarowe at gmail.com (John and Kerry Rowe)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 10:13:26 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO-rHKs6WeXyPAyCs2GzLd=dE5wRY44Ck8Vs1zccDJKvD=Y=gQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 240 grind. Valve lash is always greater than standard specified.
Mine runs .016", which is .004" greater than OEM spec.
John Rowe
Queensland Australia
59BT7

On Wed, Mar 13, 2024 at 9:38?AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street
> cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to
> determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Ira.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie, OR
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 18:13:24 2024
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 17:13:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <CAO-rHKs6WeXyPAyCs2GzLd=dE5wRY44Ck8Vs1zccDJKvD=Y=gQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO-rHKs6WeXyPAyCs2GzLd=dE5wRY44Ck8Vs1zccDJKvD=Y=gQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-rYyBzgAzx=KHOy0-GpaiZVg7R+9Q1d7aPkiaOimo2fw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks
I think mine was at .015, when we adjusted them back to stock. It left me
thinking we should not have.
Thanks

Ira Erbs
Milwaukie, OR
1959 Austin Healey 100-6


On Tue, Mar 12, 2024, 5:13?PM John and Kerry Rowe <jtkarowe at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have a 240 grind. Valve lash is always greater than standard specified.
> Mine runs .016", which is .004" greater than OEM spec.
> John Rowe
> Queensland Australia
> 59BT7
>
> On Wed, Mar 13, 2024 at 9:38?AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
>> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street
>> cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to
>> determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
>> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>> Ira.
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Milwaukie, OR
>> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtkarowe at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 19:08:42 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (Richard Mayor)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 18:08:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>

The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers. 

 
Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Ira.
> 
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie, OR
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>    
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 


From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Mar 12 19:15:13 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 01:15:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
Message-ID: <e9dc9c39-b1f7-5dcb-ecac-7613e893a8a2@charter.net>

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 21:20:11 2024
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 20:20:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOPa7ToNyWJFSkVWopPTWXKzNgb0+r-D82E44X=e0WEXLg@mail.gmail.com>

Call Isky.  They usually keep a record of their customers and what they cut
for them.
Mike MacLean

On Tue, Mar 12, 2024 at 8:10?PM Richard Mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as
> the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not
> recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit
> looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> > On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> > When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter
> street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any
> way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> > Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> > Thanks in advance for any help.
> > Ira.
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > Milwaukie, OR
> > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 21:18:11 2024
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 20:18:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOPa7ToNyWJFSkVWopPTWXKzNgb0+r-D82E44X=e0WEXLg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOPa7ToNyWJFSkVWopPTWXKzNgb0+r-D82E44X=e0WEXLg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-ufKbJdeVvk2U8Qwkkyx+7g8jpthKSpXWRrmNKutrv_A@mail.gmail.com>

Worth it to reach out. Thanks

Ira Erbs
Milwaukie, OR
1959 Austin Healey 100-6


On Tue, Mar 12, 2024, 8:20?PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Call Isky.  They usually keep a record of their customers and what they
> cut for them.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2024 at 8:10?PM Richard Mayor via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as
>> the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not
>> recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit
>> looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers.
>>
>>
>> Richard Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> > On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hello all,
>> > We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
>> > When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter
>> street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any
>> way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
>> > Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
>> > Thanks in advance for any help.
>> > Ira.
>> >
>> > Ira Erbs
>> > Milwaukie, OR
>> > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> >
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> >
>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> >
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 12 21:27:52 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 03:27:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SA1PR19MB68955891F635762F86F17175BF2A2@SA1PR19MB6895.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

I have one in my BN7; let me see if I can find the numbers
Regards,
Richard C


> On Mar 12, 2024, at 22:02, Richard Mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers.
> 
> 
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 
> 
>> On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
>> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
>> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>> Ira.
>> 
>> Ira Erbs
>> Milwaukie, OR
>> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 

From manifold at telus.net  Tue Mar 12 21:49:16 2024
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 20:49:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <e9dc9c39-b1f7-5dcb-ecac-7613e893a8a2@charter.net>
References: <e9dc9c39-b1f7-5dcb-ecac-7613e893a8a2@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCBWmZt=VvCnG8ACgBbuigBrz+pLL_Zi+OAMU18J89GFpg@mail.gmail.com>

Ira,

Here is a Denis Welch cam chart with recommended valve clearance. Once you
determine the lift of your cam you can see how it compares to the DW Chart.

Harold

On Tue, Mar 12, 2024 at 8:29?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ira-go to this site for info and then you can measure lift:
> https://elgincams.com/ah1/      Regards, Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "i erbs" <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: March 12, 2024 at 4:34 PM PDT
> Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
> Hello all,
> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street
> cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to
> determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Ira.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie, OR
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Mar 12 21:55:08 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 03:55:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB444507ACE93962D7B81749A7A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Ira, I have an Isky in my 100. If I recall it?s a Z11+4 whatever that means. It?s about a 268 degree pattern and the valve lash is 0.018?.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2024 1:08 AM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Isky cam

The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers.


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Ira.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie, OR
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com

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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Mar 12 21:56:36 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 03:56:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR20MB444507ACE93962D7B81749A7A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
 <PH0PR20MB444507ACE93962D7B81749A7A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB44455670BD4DF039B8955091A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Initially I was running it at the stock duration and I burned a bunch of valves?
________________________________
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2024 3:55 AM
To: Richard Mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Isky cam

Ira, I have an Isky in my 100. If I recall it?s a Z11+4 whatever that means. It?s about a 268 degree pattern and the valve lash is 0.018?.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2024 1:08 AM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Isky cam

The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers.


Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com


> On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> Thanks in advance for any help.
> Ira.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie, OR
> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 21:57:54 2024
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 20:57:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR20MB44455670BD4DF039B8955091A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CABXhz8_ckXP+OE4aJ0NiYRr7muv46Mf26s21R-n2cu=n9Hv8Lg@mail.gmail.com>
 <FDA29BEF-E08B-4E6B-A059-6A8D46C3344E@gmail.com>
 <PH0PR20MB444507ACE93962D7B81749A7A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
 <PH0PR20MB44455670BD4DF039B8955091A52A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89s1Ya0tLn+i3Ye8fdfzt7rRsDDjrPO8XaGf3MR4+tMBw@mail.gmail.com>

My concern

Ira Erbs
Milwaukie, OR
1959 Austin Healey 100-6


On Tue, Mar 12, 2024, 8:56?PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> Initially I was running it at the stock duration and I burned a bunch of
> valves?
> ------------------------------
> *From:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 13, 2024 3:55 AM
> *To:* Richard Mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; i erbs <
> eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Isky cam
>
> Ira, I have an Isky in my 100. If I recall it?s a Z11+4 whatever that
> means. It?s about a 268 degree pattern and the valve lash is 0.018?.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard
> Mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 13, 2024 1:08 AM
> *To:* i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Isky cam
>
> The most likely Isky grind that you got was the T36. It was advertised as
> the 3/4 race grind.  The full race was called the Isky T46 and was not
> recommended for a street car.  If I recall correctly the lash was a bit
> looser. But, you should be fine just using the stock valve lash numbers.
>
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> > On Mar 12, 2024, at 2:52 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
> > When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter
> street cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any
> way to determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
> > Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
> > Thanks in advance for any help.
> > Ira.
> >
> > Ira Erbs
> > Milwaukie, OR
> > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 12 21:59:44 2024
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2024 20:59:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCBWmZt=VvCnG8ACgBbuigBrz+pLL_Zi+OAMU18J89GFpg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e9dc9c39-b1f7-5dcb-ecac-7613e893a8a2@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCBWmZt=VvCnG8ACgBbuigBrz+pLL_Zi+OAMU18J89GFpg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_=pMHKxyk5Xxx16h5TsBMEU1MNMti9WP9AyhUwahM0VQ@mail.gmail.com>

All are set to .015. I'll need the widen my gap. They were at .015 when we
set them to stock.

Ira Erbs
Milwaukie, OR
1959 Austin Healey 100-6


On Tue, Mar 12, 2024, 8:49?PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> Ira,
>
> Here is a Denis Welch cam chart with recommended valve clearance. Once you
> determine the lift of your cam you can see how it compares to the DW Chart.
>
> Harold
>
> On Tue, Mar 12, 2024 at 8:29?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Ira-go to this site for info and then you can measure lift:
>> https://elgincams.com/ah1/      Regards, Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "i erbs" <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>> To: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: March 12, 2024 at 4:34 PM PDT
>> Subject: [Healeys] Isky cam
>> Hello all,
>> We are inching towards driving season here in NW Oregon.
>> When I built my engine in 1975 I had Ed Iskadarian cut me a hotter street
>> cam for my BT7 engine. I of course lost the info card. Is there any way to
>> determine the valve lash? Or should I use OEM and leave it alone?
>> Is there any way without removing it to figure out the grind?
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>> Ira.
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Milwaukie, OR
>> 1959 Austin Healey 100-6
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>>
>>
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Mar 13 18:16:54 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 14:16:54 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] AHC of New England Monthly Tech Conference Call
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZeV2OXsaAU_rQzQ_q6ufnQkhvDF3Edsf5SKCX=B3JaJNQ@mail.gmail.com>

Every month the Austin-Healey Club of New England holds a Zoom tech
conference call where folks bring up Healey questions and our panel of
experts does their best to answer them.  The latest one is here:
https://youtu.be/QNJVYRnMS4E and located on our YouTube page. We've saved
them all on the page, too, and subjects covered are in the video
description. Browse around if you have an unanswered question.

Rick Neville aka HeaelyRick
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Mar 13 23:18:17 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2024 19:18:17 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] AHC of New England Monthly Tech Conference Call
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeV2OXsaAU_rQzQ_q6ufnQkhvDF3Edsf5SKCX=B3JaJNQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGfzsZeV2OXsaAU_rQzQ_q6ufnQkhvDF3Edsf5SKCX=B3JaJNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfrqQ_mJOLEX=7xs9zBA0iC5jzuK+vYKCpgB5j=Qnwryw@mail.gmail.com>

I should have mentioned our YouTube page has a search function that's
accessed by pressing the small magnifying glass which opens up a
search box. By inputting your keyword. such as "exhaust" you can access all
our videos in which we've talked about exhaust systems. Comes in handy.  I
don't advise searching for "oil", we must have covered that one a hundred
times!

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

On Wed, Mar 13, 2024 at 2:16?PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> Every month the Austin-Healey Club of New England holds a Zoom tech
> conference call where folks bring up Healey questions and our panel of
> experts does their best to answer them.  The latest one is here:
> https://youtu.be/QNJVYRnMS4E and located on our YouTube page. We've saved
> them all on the page, too, and subjects covered are in the video
> description. Browse around if you have an unanswered question.
>
> Rick Neville aka HeaelyRick
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Mar 14 09:15:49 2024
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2024 08:15:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Wayne,
Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that I
understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
rg

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Roger,
> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>
>                Wayne
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Mar 14 20:16:15 2024
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2024 19:16:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Wayne - you are a star !
I got lucky and think that I have found it.
Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
Was this where the one you worked on was ?
Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
Thank you for responding .
rg



---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>


Wayne,
Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that I
understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
rg

<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
<#m_-2987158626209960444_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Roger,
> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>
>                Wayne
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From waschu2 at gmail.com  Thu Mar 14 21:35:41 2024
From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2024 23:35:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, it was!

On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> Wayne - you are a star !
> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
> Thank you for responding .
> rg
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
> Wayne,
> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that I
> understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
> rg
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#m_1672260542168041566_m_-2987158626209960444_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Roger,
>> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
>> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
>> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
>> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
>> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
>> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
>> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
>> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
>> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
>> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
>> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
>> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>>
>>                Wayne
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>
>>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Mar 15 09:05:31 2024
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2024 15:05:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>

 Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?Gary Hodson?
    On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Yes, it was!?

On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

Wayne - you are a star !I got lucky and think that I have found it.Started by removing the center tappet side cover.Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss; there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.Was this where the one you worked on was ?
Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.Thank you for responding .rg



---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>


Wayne,Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that I understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.?So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.rg


|  | Virus-free.www.avg.com |


On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Roger,My friend who had?a? Healey 3000 had? a similar issue. We would find?coolant?in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between the 6 and 7 tappets.? With that? tappet cover off we could see coolant drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen? the boss with a punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest dropping?your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first step in locating your problem.? ? Good luck.?
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Wayne_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar 16 08:07:24 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2024 07:07:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net>

MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best 
bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 
'uprated' water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the 
result was good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can 
and use a good flux.

https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron




On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence 
> in any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including 
> inside the actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it 
> might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via 
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it was!
>
> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
>     Wayne - you are a star !
>     I got lucky and think that I have found it.
>     Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
>     Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover
>     mounting boss; there is a ridge there just above the distributor
>     drive.
>     Was this where the one you worked on was ?
>     Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea
>     what they used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the
>     oozing got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
>     So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
>     Thank you for responding .
>     rg
>
>
>
>     ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>     From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace at telus.net>
>     Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
>     To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
>     Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
>     Wayne,
>     Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite
>     sure that I understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to
>     the sump ? Is this the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan
>     is to get the pan off and pressurize the coolant with some dye in
>     it and hopefully locate it.
>     So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe
>     that is a block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
>     rg
>
>     <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>     	Virus-free.www.avg.com
>     <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
>
>
>     On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
>     wrote:
>
>         Hi Roger,
>         My friend who had?a? Healey 3000 had? a similar issue. We
>         would find?coolant?in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap.
>         I found when we pressurized the cooling system with the engine
>         warm, no leak noted, with the engine cold a slight coolant
>         leak in pressure. I decided to drop the oil pan to look for
>         leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping into
>         the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in
>         between the 6 and 7 tappets.? With that? tappet cover off we
>         could see coolant drips forming in that boss running down into
>         the pan area. It would only leak when cold. Porosity? I think
>         so. I decided to Peen? the boss with a punch and seal with JB
>         Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest dropping?your oil
>         pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first step
>         in locating your problem.? ? Good luck.
>
>         ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Wayne
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar 16 08:25:32 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2024 10:25:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKF4yahCRx55wi7-FDP8jwfo_s_8qnTT8Ytf++UTy-QTw@mail.gmail.com>

I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some
irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.
https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm
I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.

M

On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best
> bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 'uprated'
> water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the result was
> good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can and use a good
> flux.
>
> https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
>
>
>
>
> On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in
> any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
> actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candidate
> for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it was!
>
> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
> Wayne - you are a star !
> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
> Thank you for responding .
> rg
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace at telus.net>
> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
> Wayne,
> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that I
> understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
> rg
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>
> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Roger,
> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>
>                Wayne
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sat Mar 16 20:50:27 2024
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2024 19:50:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKF4yahCRx55wi7-FDP8jwfo_s_8qnTT8Ytf++UTy-QTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKF4yahCRx55wi7-FDP8jwfo_s_8qnTT8Ytf++UTy-QTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiO4EuPQ+_6Dry_YWYjPBmy0uStYGBFom94ocC1+j_Jxfw@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for other
applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.
There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. It
oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.
Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.
A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum
resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now
What intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's
friend had.
So it surely is a weakness of this block ?
Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?
I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of the
valve cover.
Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers the
oil analysis alarm.
rg
rg


<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
Virus-free.www.avg.com
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 7:54?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some
> irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.
> https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm
> I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best
>> bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 'uprated'
>> water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the result was
>> good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can and use a good
>> flux.
>>
>> https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in
>> any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
>> actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candidate
>> for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yes, it was!
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> Wayne - you are a star !
>> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
>> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
>> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
>> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
>> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
>> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
>> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
>> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
>> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
>> Thank you for responding .
>> rg
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>> From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace at telus.net>
>> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
>> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
>>
>> Wayne,
>> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that
>> I understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
>> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
>> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
>> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
>> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
>> rg
>>
>>
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>> Virus-free.www.avg.com
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Roger,
>> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
>> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
>> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
>> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
>> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally dripping
>> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in between
>> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
>> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
>> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
>> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
>> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
>> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>>
>>                Wayne
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 17 08:45:17 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2024 07:45:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO4EuPQ+_6Dry_YWYjPBmy0uStYGBFom94ocC1+j_Jxfw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKF4yahCRx55wi7-FDP8jwfo_s_8qnTT8Ytf++UTy-QTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiO4EuPQ+_6Dry_YWYjPBmy0uStYGBFom94ocC1+j_Jxfw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e6005dad-ee28-45a8-95aa-5a0ae0c22e0a@comcast.net>

This may be heresy, but you might want to try one of various 'stop 
leak/head gasket sealers' for at least a short term solution. These are 
usually a silicate solution that solidifies in cracks; they generally 
don't work as well as claimed, but they sometimes work at least a little 
bit. I've not known them to block any coolant passages because they 
don't work THAT well, and there may not be enough flow in this situation 
for them to work at all.

My dad worked from the Ford assembly plant that built Mustangs back in 
the '60s; he said they threw a bottle of Bars Leaks in every car's 
radiator. My engine builder, who worked at Jaguar said they did the same.

This guy at least tries to do 'scientific' comparisons:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqD4Ha766w8


On 3/16/2024 7:50 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for 
> other applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.
> There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. 
> It oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.
> Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.
> A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum 
> resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now
> What intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as 
> Wayne's friend had.
> So it surely is a weakness of this block ?
> Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?
> I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of 
> the valve cover.
> Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers 
> the oil analysis alarm.
> rg
> rg
>
>

From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Mar 17 08:59:27 2024
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2024 10:59:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <e6005dad-ee28-45a8-95aa-5a0ae0c22e0a@comcast.net>
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKF4yahCRx55wi7-FDP8jwfo_s_8qnTT8Ytf++UTy-QTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiO4EuPQ+_6Dry_YWYjPBmy0uStYGBFom94ocC1+j_Jxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <e6005dad-ee28-45a8-95aa-5a0ae0c22e0a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <015201da787b$b5187380$1f495a80$@sympatico.ca>

Bob, When I was having head gasket issues a few years back we (Mike Salter
and I) considered using Bar-Leak or similar.  I decided to have another go
with an up-market gasket, which did solve my problem, but in talking to Mike
and doing a little research I would have tried Bar-leak with little
hesitation as my next solution.  I think the opinions on it blocking water
galleries and rad cores is not based on anything and if it blocked a rad
core I'd day the rad core was almost completely blocked to begin with and
was in need of re-coring.  The stuff is not a back-yard solution and I
believe it is a good product.

Just my two cents (based on some research and discussion with people I
trust, not personal experience).

Cheers, Mirek

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2024 10:45 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil

This may be heresy, but you might want to try one of various 'stop leak/head
gasket sealers' for at least a short term solution. These are usually a
silicate solution that solidifies in cracks; they generally don't work as
well as claimed, but they sometimes work at least a little bit. I've not
known them to block any coolant passages because they don't work THAT well,
and there may not be enough flow in this situation for them to work at all.

My dad worked from the Ford assembly plant that built Mustangs back in the
'60s; he said they threw a bottle of Bars Leaks in every car's radiator. My
engine builder, who worked at Jaguar said they did the same.

This guy at least tries to do 'scientific' comparisons:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqD4Ha766w8


On 3/16/2024 7:50 PM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for 
> other applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.
> There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. 
> It oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.
> Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.
> A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum 
> resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now What 
> intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's 
> friend had.
> So it surely is a weakness of this block ?
> Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?
> I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of 
> the valve cover.
> Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers 
> the oil analysis alarm.
> rg
> rg
>
>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From goldengt at cal.net  Sun Mar 17 12:50:00 2024
From: goldengt at cal.net (Ken)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2024 13:50:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO4EuPQ+_6Dry_YWYjPBmy0uStYGBFom94ocC1+j_Jxfw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4TyRqs0tPMzSySTG@allmail.cal.net>

When I threw my original block away in the early 80s it was when I took the pan off the water was dipping from above the cam. I don't think I thought about removing the tappet cover. The replacement block was free!Ken Freese?65bj8Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> Date: 3/16/24  9:57 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for other applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. It oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for nowWhat intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's friend had. So it surely is a weakness of this block ?Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of the valve cover. Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers the oil analysis alarm.rgrgVirus-free.www.avg.comOn Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 7:54?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htmI opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.MOn Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  
    
  
  
    MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your
    best bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a
    so-called 'uprated' water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise
    seal up and the result was good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal.
    Clean best you can and use a good flux.
    
    https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
    
    
    
    
    On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via
      Healeys wrote:
    
    
      
      
        Congratulations on finding
          the leak. I would not have much confidence in any epoxy. The
          area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
          actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it
          might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
        Gary Hodson?
        
        
      
      
        
           On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne
            Schultz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 
          
          
          
          
          
            
              
                Yes, it was!?
                
                
                
                  
                    On Thu,
                      Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16?PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
                      wrote:
                    
                    
                      
                        Wayne - you are a star !
                        I got lucky and think that I have found it.
                        Started by removing the center tappet side
                          cover.
                        Just like your experience - mine is below
                          the center cover mounting boss; there is a
                          ridge there just above the distributor drive.
                        Was this where the one you worked on was ?
                        
                        Actually looks someone tried to repair it
                          before. Have no idea what they used, but is a
                          soft white putty like substance and the oozing
                          got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant
                          under pressure.
                        So now have to clean up and think about a
                          repair technique.
                        Thank you for responding .
                        rg
                        
                        
                        
                        
                        
                        
                          
                            ----------
                              Forwarded message ---------
                              From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
                              Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15?AM
                              Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
                              To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
                              Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
                            
                            
                            
                            
                              Wayne,
                              Thank you. That sounds very similar
                                to my situation. Not quite sure that I
                                understand what you mean by the boss
                                that goes down to the sump ? Is this the
                                oil return path - interesting. Yes, my
                                plan is to get the pan off and
                                pressurize the coolant with some dye in
                                it and hopefully locate it.?
                              So your repair was done with the
                                tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
                                block weakness and I get lucky with a
                                similar fault.
                              rg
                              
                            
                            
                              
                                
                                  
                                    
                                    Virus-free.www.avg.com
                                  
                                
                              
                            
                            
                            
                              On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at
                                9:14?PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
                                wrote:
                              
                              
                                Hi Roger,
                                  My friend who had?a? Healey 3000
                                    had? a similar issue. We would
                                    find?coolant?in the oil on the
                                    dipstick and filler cap. I found
                                    when we pressurized the cooling
                                    system with the engine warm, no leak
                                    noted, with the engine cold a slight
                                    coolant leak in pressure. I decided
                                    to drop the oil pan to look for
                                    leaks and found a very slight leak
                                    internally dripping into the oil pan
                                    area. We found that the leak was
                                    from the boss in between the 6 and 7
                                    tappets.? With that? tappet cover
                                    off we could see coolant drips
                                    forming in that boss running down
                                    into the pan area. It would only
                                    leak when cold. Porosity? I think
                                    so. I decided to Peen? the boss with
                                    a punch and seal with JB Weld. It
                                    has been good ever since. I suggest
                                    dropping?your oil pan to look for
                                    leaks might be the least invasive
                                    first step in locating your
                                    problem.? ? Good luck.?
                                  
                                  
                                  ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Wayne
                                
                                
                              
                            
                          
                        
                      
                    
                  
                
              
            
          
        
      
    
  

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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Mar 17 14:13:36 2024
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2024 20:13:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>

Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? ( the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Mike Brooks56 BN2Scotland
Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 17 14:40:24 2024
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2024 16:40:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>

Mike,

The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.? No grease. Oil 
flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the 
bearing.? Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.? The oil seal keeps 
the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are 
> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with 
> grease? ( the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual 
> doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub 
> bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil intended to pass across the 
> oil seal to the hub bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub 
> flange to half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Mike Brooks
> 56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer 
> <https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=NativePlacement&c=Global_Acquisition_YMktg_315_EmailSignatureGrowth_YahooMail:Search,Organize,Conquer&af_sub1=Acquisition&af_sub2=Global_YMktg&af_sub3=&af_sub4=100000945&af_sub5=OrganizeConquer__Static_>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Mar 17 18:23:56 2024
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2024 20:23:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>

What Bob says.

The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on
the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair
piece.
BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with
plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the
sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are
supposed to get lubrication.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.  No grease.  Oil flows
> between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing.  Yes,
> the paper gasket has to be oil tight.  The oil seal keeps the oil from
> lubricating the brake shoes.
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>
> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are
> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? (
> the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell
> you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is
> the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing?
> If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will
> need to be oil tight.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Mike Brooks
> 56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
> <https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=NativePlacement&c=Global_Acquisition_YMktg_315_EmailSignatureGrowth_YahooMail:Search,Organize,Conquer&af_sub1=Acquisition&af_sub2=Global_YMktg&af_sub3=&af_sub4=100000945&af_sub5=OrganizeConquer__Static_>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar 18 09:47:20 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2024 08:47:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>

Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle 
bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm 
not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but 
something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the 
requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; 
knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a 
purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin 
in the hub as well.

Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't 
tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the 
'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't 
recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of 
this job I went for 'premium.'


On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> What Bob says.
>
> The inner seal on the axle is the critical?piece and if there is wear 
> on the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar 
> repair piece.
> BTW SKF and others make what?they?call semi-sealed or sealed bearings 
> with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but 
> since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood 
> how they are supposed to get lubrication.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> 
> wrote:
>
>     Mike,
>
>     The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.? No grease.?
>     Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to
>     the bearing.? Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.? The oil
>     seal keeps the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.
>
>     Bob Haskell
>     Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
>     On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>>     Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They
>>     are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed
>>     with grease? ( the service manual suggests they should, but the
>>     same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when
>>     changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil intended
>>     to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing? If so, then the
>>     paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will need to
>>     be oil tight.
>>
>>     Thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>>     Mike Brooks
>>     56 BN2
>>     Scotland
>>
>>     Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
>>     <https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=NativePlacement&c=Global_Acquisition_YMktg_315_EmailSignatureGrowth_YahooMail:Search,Organize,Conquer&af_sub1=Acquisition&af_sub2=Global_YMktg&af_sub3=&af_sub4=100000945&af_sub5=OrganizeConquer__Static_>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Mar 18 11:45:20 2024
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2024 17:45:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>

 The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20 years!Gary Hodson
    On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
  Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
 
 Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'
 
 
 On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
  
 
 What Bob says.?? 
  The inner seal on the axle is the critical?piece and if there is wear on the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair piece. BTW SKF and others make what?they?call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are supposed to get lubrication. 
  Best--Michael Oritt ?  
  On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
  
  
Mike,
 
The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.? No grease.? Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing.? Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.? The oil seal keeps the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.
 
 Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
  
 Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? ( the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight. 
  Thanks in advance for any help. 
  Mike Brooks 56 BN2 Scotland 
 Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer  
  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sat Mar 23 06:25:24 2024
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2024 12:25:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
 <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>

Gary

The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of
the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width.
Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct
thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing
outer from turning in its housing.

This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was
machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that
will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide
range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip
on the bearing outer.

If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and fit
these together with 'O' rings.

Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the
face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on
early BN1 hubs.

All the best

On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket
> must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
> The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I
> made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
> years!
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <
> bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
> bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not
> sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but something
> to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque on
> the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a
> hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket
> and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>
> Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't
> tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the
> 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't
> recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of
> this job I went for 'premium.'
>
>
> On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> What Bob says.
>
> The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on
> the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair
> piece.
> BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with
> plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the
> sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are
> supposed to get lubrication.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.  No grease.  Oil flows
> between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing.  Yes,
> the paper gasket has to be oil tight.  The oil seal keeps the oil from
> lubricating the brake shoes.
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>
> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are
> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? (
> the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell
> you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is
> the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing?
> If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will
> need to be oil tight.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Mike Brooks
> 56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
> <https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=NativePlacement&c=Global_Acquisition_YMktg_315_EmailSignatureGrowth_YahooMail:Search,Organize,Conquer&af_sub1=Acquisition&af_sub2=Global_YMktg&af_sub3=&af_sub4=100000945&af_sub5=OrganizeConquer__Static_>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar 23 07:04:57 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2024 06:04:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
 <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48545b04-992e-4986-bfd2-b5d4ebc8f55b@comcast.net>

Just to confirm: Hubs from a later car, say, a BJ8 will completely 
interchange with a BN2 hub?

How would one determine a correct gasket thickness? There's no way, 
IIRC, to get a feeler gauge in there.

TIA,
Bob

On 3/23/2024 5:25 AM, john harper wrote:
> Gary
>
> The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate 
> machining?of the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing 
> width. Tolerances?are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of 
> correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip 
> the bearing outer from turning in its housing.
>
> This problem was addressed?by the manufacturer?and an extra grove was 
> machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring 
> that will seal the gap between?the hub and half shaft. This will seal 
> a wide range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a 
> good grip on the bearing outer.
>
> If available the best solution is to find hubs for later?big Healey 
> and fit these together with 'O' rings.
>
> Another solution?is to run a continuous ring of liquid?gasket around 
> the face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective 
> seal on early BN1 hubs.
>
> All the best
>
> On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper
>     gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
>     The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too
>     thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure,
>     so far, 15-20 years!
>     Gary Hodson
>
>     On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell
>     <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>     Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
>     bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years.
>     I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that
>     problem, but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy
>     to get the requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps
>     the inner race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a
>     good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air
>     impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>
>     Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I
>     couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no
>     name' and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken
>     or SK; I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me,
>     but given the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'
>
>
>     On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>     What Bob says.
>
>     The inner seal on the axle is the critical?piece and if there is
>     wear on the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve
>     or similar repair piece.
>     BTW SKF and others make what?they?call semi-sealed or sealed
>     bearings with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the
>     bearing but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have
>     never understood how they are supposed to get lubrication.
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>     On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell
>     <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>         Mike,
>
>         The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.? No
>         grease.? Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing
>         to around to the bearing.? Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil
>         tight. The oil seal keeps the oil from lubricating the brake
>         shoes.
>
>         Bob Haskell
>         Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
>         On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>>         Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work.
>>         They are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be
>>         packed with grease? ( the service manual suggests they
>>         should, but the same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub
>>         with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is the
>>         back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub
>>         bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to
>>         half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight.
>>
>>         Thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>>         Mike Brooks
>>         56 BN2
>>         Scotland
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Mar 23 07:37:06 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2024 09:37:06 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <48545b04-992e-4986-bfd2-b5d4ebc8f55b@comcast.net>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
 <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>
 <48545b04-992e-4986-bfd2-b5d4ebc8f55b@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJTPpio74GeZfLk9VvSq0_qZABVzW1aX=cj7DjYYvBrpw@mail.gmail.com>

The later hubs are the same other than the "O" ring groove of which there
were 2 types as I recall. A machine shop can easily cut an "O" ring groove
in the hub face of earlier hubs.
If you assemple everything dry, no gasket, and lightly snug the nuts up
with spacers or washers to prevent the threads from bottoming out you can
take a measurement with feeler gauges then subtract the thickness of the
gasket.
The original gaskets were *very* thin.
The purpose of the "nip" was to prevent the outer race turning in the hub.
These days the same result can easily be achieved with Locktite which
allows a thicker gasket to be used although that can make the bearings
somewhat difficult to remove from the hub next time.

M


On Sat., Mar. 23, 2024, 9:11 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Just to confirm: Hubs from a later car, say, a BJ8 will completely
> interchange with a BN2 hub?
>
> How would one determine a correct gasket thickness? There's no way, IIRC,
> to get a feeler gauge in there.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> On 3/23/2024 5:25 AM, john harper wrote:
>
> Gary
>
> The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of
> the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width.
> Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct
> thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing
> outer from turning in its housing.
>
> This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was
> machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that
> will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide
> range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip
> on the bearing outer.
>
> If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and
> fit these together with 'O' rings.
>
> Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the
> face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on
> early BN1 hubs.
>
> All the best
>
> On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket
>> must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
>> The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I
>> made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
>> years!
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <
>> bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
>> bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not
>> sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but something
>> to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque on
>> the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a
>> hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket
>> and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>>
>> Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't
>> tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the
>> 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't
>> recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of
>> this job I went for 'premium.'
>>
>>
>> On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>>
>> What Bob says.
>>
>> The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on
>> the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair
>> piece.
>> BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings
>> with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since
>> the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they
>> are supposed to get lubrication.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.  No grease.  Oil
>> flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the
>> bearing.  Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.  The oil seal keeps
>> the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>
>> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are
>> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? (
>> the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell
>> you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is
>> the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing?
>> If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will
>> need to be oil tight.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>> Mike Brooks
>> 56 BN2
>> Scotland
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Mar 23 11:02:54 2024
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2024 17:02:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
 <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <61335622.560206.1711213374762@mail.yahoo.com>

 John, Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the differences between the early BN1, the BN2 & the later cars.?Gary H
    On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 07:25:35 AM CDT, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Gary
The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining?of the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width. Tolerances?are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing outer from turning in its housing.
This problem was addressed?by the manufacturer?and an extra grove was machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that will seal the gap between?the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip on the bearing outer.
If available the best solution is to find hubs for later?big Healey and fit these together with 'O' rings.
Another solution?is to run a continuous ring of liquid?gasket around the face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on early BN1 hubs.
All the best
On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20 years!Gary Hodson
    On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
  Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
 
 Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'
 
 
 On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
  
 
 What Bob says.?? 
  The inner seal on the axle is the critical?piece and if there is wear on the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair piece. BTW SKF and others make what?they?call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are supposed to get lubrication. 
  Best--Michael Oritt ?  
  On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
  
  
Mike,
 
The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.? No grease.? Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing.? Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.? The oil seal keeps the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.
 
 Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
  
 Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? ( the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight. 
  Thanks in advance for any help. 
  Mike Brooks 56 BN2 Scotland 
 Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer  
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  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sat Mar 23 16:44:12 2024
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2024 22:44:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
In-Reply-To: <61335622.560206.1711213374762@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net>
 <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net>
 <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com>
 <61335622.560206.1711213374762@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLXFr3oE0d5Q=T7asbj9S8VujAtcr70Aob6XFX87V_zv3w@mail.gmail.com>

Garry

The early BN1 hub started life on early A40 and A70 salons etc. It was then
improved and was then fitted to A40 Somerset and A70 Hereford, and later
A90 Atlamtics and derivatives but not the A70 pickup that had 6 stud hubs
and wheels.

These could be said to be Austin hubs.

When BMC produced cars like the A90 Westminster they strengthened all the
hubs. steering arms etc. The later BN1s and BN2s had these heavier 'BMC' 5
stud rear hubs also fitted to most BMC cars and light commercials.

Later big A-Hs fitted these BMC parts such as derivatives of the A90
Westminster including the gearbox and engine. The BN1 and BN2 4chulinder
engine did not continue as an A-H engine but did continue on BMC light
commercials and also the London Taxi albeit mainly as a Diesel.

Regards

On Sat, 23 Mar 2024 at 17:03, warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> John, Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the differences
> between the early BN1, the BN2 & the later cars.
> Gary H
>
> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 07:25:35 AM CDT, john harper <
> ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gary
>
> The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of
> the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width.
> Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct
> thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing
> outer from turning in its housing.
>
> This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was
> machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that
> will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide
> range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip
> on the bearing outer.
>
> If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and
> fit these together with 'O' rings.
>
> Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the
> face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on
> early BN1 hubs.
>
> All the best
>
> On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket
> must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
> The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I
> made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
> years!
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <
> bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
> bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not
> sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but something
> to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque on
> the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a
> hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket
> and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>
> Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't
> tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the
> 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't
> recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of
> this job I went for 'premium.'
>
>
> On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> What Bob says.
>
> The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on
> the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair
> piece.
> BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with
> plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the
> sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are
> supposed to get lubrication.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06?PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.  No grease.  Oil flows
> between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing.  Yes,
> the paper gasket has to be oil tight.  The oil seal keeps the oil from
> lubricating the brake shoes.
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>
> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are
> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? (
> the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell
> you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is
> the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing?
> If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will
> need to be oil tight.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Mike Brooks
> 56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
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From rcobb at sonic.net  Sun Mar 24 12:10:22 2024
From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2024 11:10:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Unrestored, Running,
 one owner BN1 for sale-located in San Francisco
Message-ID: <574451c4-f467-4f7f-8ae9-f4af1aa2dcc4@sonic.net>

Follow-up on the sale of this car, mentioned earlier this month.

To keep the community informed about current market-place values, the 
BN1 sold within a couple days of listing and the money has changed hands 
and the car has been picked-up.

The asking price was $22K.? The selling price was #20K.

Bob


From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Mar 24 16:55:36 2024
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2024 22:55:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 rear axle
References: <570631130.653735.1711320936610.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <570631130.653735.1711320936610@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the responses.? This weekend I rebuilt both sides with a new gasket over a? continous circular bead of Permatex Ultra Black (also round each stud). I did them one at a time with 24 hours between them, leaning the side I was working on up on a jack so that it was clear of axle oil. The joints were tightened up with the drum and spline adaptor on, and the 5 nuts torqued up. The first side sealed fine - the other I will know about tomorrow.
I can see the design problem. The bearing and spacer need to protude slightly further out than the hub face plus the paper gasket, to ensure the bearing doesn't turn. But if the protrusion is even slightly too much, the joint will leak. Hopefully the Permatex will do the trick.
I note that the gasket supplied by the parts company today is jut a bit thicker than the ones I got 12 years ago.

Mike
Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Sun Mar 24 20:30:43 2024
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2024 02:30:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ava Gardner - 100/6 Photo
Message-ID: <OSQPR01MB64308B8D6A93EAE0BCAF8CD88C362@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello

Would anyone have a higher res image of the attached photo of Ava Gardner driving the 100/6 in the final scenes of the 1959 film "On the Beach" they could send me please?

Thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia



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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Mar 29 15:00:55 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2024 17:00:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New post on my blog
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKJbmvFTxOedMXXNwovn=C=YkbtXxU4c9XeDAomUSP_jg@mail.gmail.com>

https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-spare-wheel-block/
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Fri Mar 29 15:44:55 2024
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2024 14:44:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?=28no_subject=29?=
Message-ID: <20240329214455.59132.qmail@server278.com>

Robert Bowie, please contact me off-line

From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com  Sat Mar 30 15:46:57 2024
From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2024 16:46:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Starter
Message-ID: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>

I need to replace the starter on my BN2.  Considering the "WOSP" Moss
140-361.

Any opinions or experiences to share?  Thanks!  



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat Mar 30 17:02:15 2024
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2024 16:02:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Starter
In-Reply-To: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOM05sD1y7Rm6WX8usVF2wDXwz-v3xev--umMyzNwe_AXg@mail.gmail.com>

Why don't you just get the original one rebuilt?  Plenty of places still
rebuild these old starters.  The original will last a long time once
rebuilt.  Keeping it Healey.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2

On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 3:03?PM Charles Rice via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I need to replace the starter on my BN2.  Considering the ?WOSP? Moss
> 140-361.
>
> Any opinions or experiences to share?  Thanks!
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 30 18:07:32 2024
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2024 00:07:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Starter
In-Reply-To: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB6078B85C40F47BAAA9F4268ED1382@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

If the starter currently on your car has lasted this long, providing it has not been replaced before, has certainly given you good service, I would just have it rebuilt.

Jean

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Charles Rice via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2024 4:46:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Starter


I need to replace the starter on my BN2.  Considering the ?WOSP? Moss 140-361.

Any opinions or experiences to share?  Thanks!

[https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>      Virus-free.www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sun Mar 31 00:54:12 2024
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2024 08:54:12 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Starter
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOM05sD1y7Rm6WX8usVF2wDXwz-v3xev--umMyzNwe_AXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM05sD1y7Rm6WX8usVF2wDXwz-v3xev--umMyzNwe_AXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1711868052354.691930.6ff29e77716dddc3e7b31807bc17c91f718d0f24@spica.telekom.de>

Original starter is always the best and most reliable.
 
Josef Eckert
K?nigswinter/Germany
 
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Starter
Datum: 2024-03-31T00:29:49+0100
Von: "Michael MacLean" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
An: "Charles Rice" <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
 
 
 
Why don't you just get the original one rebuilt?  Plenty of places still 
rebuild these old starters.  The original will last a long time once 
rebuilt.  Keeping it Healey.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2

On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 3:03?PM Charles Rice via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

  I need to replace the starter on my BN2.  Considering the ?WOSP? Moss
  140-361.

  Any opinions or experiences to share?  Thanks! 

  <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>

  Virus-free.www.avast.com
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 31 10:40:16 2024
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2024 16:40:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Starter
In-Reply-To: <1711868052354.691930.6ff29e77716dddc3e7b31807bc17c91f718d0f24@spica.telekom.de>
References: <000301da82eb$ca5192c0$5ef4b840$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM05sD1y7Rm6WX8usVF2wDXwz-v3xev--umMyzNwe_AXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1711868052354.691930.6ff29e77716dddc3e7b31807bc17c91f718d0f24@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <DS7PR84MB31106BC24A3A304953A47057A4382@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I replaced mine with a gear reduction one. Then I got mine repaired for very little money and very little time. I saved the rebuilt original because I liked it and I don't really like the gear reduction although it is very strong and efficient. I liked to keep my car as original as possible.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of josef-eckert--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2024 11:54 PM
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>; Charles Rice <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter


Original starter is always the best and most reliable.



Josef Eckert

K?nigswinter/Germany









-----Original-Nachricht-----

Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Starter

Datum: 2024-03-31T00:29:49+0100

Von: "Michael MacLean" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

An: "Charles Rice" <crice_home at glasgow-ky.com>







Why don't you just get the original one rebuilt?  Plenty of places still rebuild these old starters.  The original will last a long time once rebuilt.  Keeping it Healey.
Mike MacLean
56 BN2

On Sat, Mar 30, 2024 at 3:03?PM Charles Rice via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

I need to replace the starter on my BN2.  Considering the ?WOSP? Moss 140-361.

Any opinions or experiences to share?  Thanks!

[https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>      Virus-free.www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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