[Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation
Kees Oudesluijs
coudesluijs at chello.nl
Sun Jul 28 09:33:05 MDT 2024
There was a similar problem with the Jensen-Healey which was fixed with
additional pedal extenders (O.E). Shaped H-profile contraptions that
were bolted to the surface of the original pedals. I still have a set
somewhere. It brought the pedal surface about 60 mm nearer to the
driver. Depending on the pedal arrangement this may be a solution? You
could experiment with stiff carton blocks blocks for the correct size
and shape.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 28-7-2024 om 16:52 schreef Bob Spidell via Healeys:
> Let me know when someone comes up with the fix for having a large
> steering wheel right at your chest (even with an 'adjustable' in a
> BJ8). I'm 5'9"--being generous--and short-limbed so can just work the
> pedals, but prefer the wheel to be at almost arms' length
> ('F1-Style'). Smaller diameter, aftermarket wheels help some.
>
> English drivers must be built like long-legged Hobbits.
>
> bs
>
> On 7/27/2024 6:25 PM, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys wrote:
>> I have a BJ8, and I’ve always wondered about canting the seat back…on
>> my car I just don’t see how it would work because it’s pushed back as
>> far as it will go and hits the quarter panel trim.
>> I’ve got nowhere to go as far as canting it back- I would have to
>> move the seat forward, and I would then not have enough room for my
>> legs …maybe a lot of you BJ8 owners have shorter legs than me?
>> Over the years I’ve thought about removing the quarter panel trim,
>> but that would be kind of ugly.
>> I’ve driven the car across North America, and many miles since, so
>> I’ve learned to get used to it, but it’s definitely not the ideal
>> driving position!
>>
>> Stephen, BJ8
>>
>>> On Jul 27, 2024, at 6:48 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>> I have used all the insulation mentioned to the outside and inside
>>> of the entire compartment in addition to the header pipes all the
>>> way to the mufflers. For the seats, their cover has been replaced
>>> with real leather, extra padding and installed the metal lift from
>>> Hendrix to Kant the back of the seat along with moving the seat as
>>> far back as possible. I am 6 foot one with long legs as a result I
>>> am much more comfortable driving the long trips, although have not
>>> taken any in many years. Meanwhile, still enjoying my Healey on 2-
>>> and 3-hour trips in the SW Florida winter. Never in the summer. 82
>>> years young!
>>> Really do enjoy these conversations,
>>> Bob Begani
>>> 67 BJ8
>>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>*On Behalf Of*Hank
>>> Leach via Healeys
>>> *Sent:*Saturday, July 27, 2024 12:58 AM
>>> *To:*Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>; richard mayor
>>> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> *Cc:*Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation
>>> As long as we are all showing our underwear, here is my solution to
>>> the heat issues. I used a composite aluminum bubble wrap called
>>> Prodex on the 100 floorboards and tunnel cover prior to the standard
>>> proper underlayment. It made a huge difference in heat and sound. Hank
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold at telus.net>
>>> To: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> Cc: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: July 26, 2024 at 6:16 PM PDT
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation
>>> Since we are on this topic I did something similar to Richard. Under
>>> the insulation boards on the engine side of the foot well I put a
>>> layer of Kool Mat. On the inside of the foot well a layer of Noico
>>> sound deadening and then a layer of Noico insulation liner. Just to
>>> be safe I wrapped the headers. The attached picture is fitting the
>>> Koot Mat before installing the insulation boards.
>>> I had never restored a Healey before but was warned about the
>>> infamous Healey Hot Foot. My approach might be a bit of overkill but
>>> no problems with hot feet.
>>> Harold
>>> On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 2:20 PM richard mayor
>>> <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I insulated the footwells from the engine side with an adhesive
>>>> heat barrier material used in race cars. Sorry, can’t tell you the
>>>> manufacturer. I made sure there were no cracks, gaps or holes. Any
>>>> firewall gaps where cables or hoses go through were sealed with
>>>> dum-dum (3 M black rope caulk). I used Hush Mat on the inside of
>>>> my foot well. I put the Hush Mat all across the top of the inside
>>>> of the firewall where that strip of tar paper is applied and I also
>>>> covered the air box that goes across the inside of the firewall.
>>>>
>>>> I eliminated the two piece metal tunnel and tunnel extension and
>>>> used a BJ8 fiberglass tunnel which makes a really good seal in that
>>>> area. Finally, I put side vents in my fenders that allows the heat
>>>> to flow out and eliminates that high pressure area in the
>>>> transmission tunnel. I have no insulation, inside or out, and no
>>>> carpeting on my BJ8 tunnel. It gets fairly warm on hot days but
>>>> it does not get hot.
>>>>
>>>> I can drive my car in 90 degree weather and my feet stay cool.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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>>
>>
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>
>
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