[Healeys] Failsafe thermostats

[Al Fuller]

Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information
is displayed?

________________
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Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30 AM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was
> working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars.
> Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery
> tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
> relatively simple project and works well.
> I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
> WT - Smiths std gauge
> OT- oil temp at filter
> EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
> TH - top hose water temp
> Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
> 5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched;
> 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold
> have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
> Most interesting observations are:
> Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30
> min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
> TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
> EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we
> under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine
> block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
> obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help -
> hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for
> competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too
> rich for the inlet air.
> Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but
> seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really
> good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
> Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an
> obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
> Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
> Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
>> occasion.
>> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in
>> traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
>> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature
>> usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat
>> although the warm up is a little slower.
>> The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
>> seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
>> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5
>> degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type
>> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the
>> thermostat is fully open.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
>>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
>>> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>>>
>>> TIA--Michael Oritt
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