From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec  2 18:01:43 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2024 17:01:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
Message-ID: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>

Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get 
is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?

bs

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec  2 18:03:10 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2024 17:03:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
Message-ID: <b55d0dec-5de7-43e0-8210-fc069485db33@comcast.net>

Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts of Madison, WI 
(nosimport.com) and got blank pages on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone 
got a scoop?

bs

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  2 18:36:47 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 01:36:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <MN2PR12MB35516677CFFA03695552F256BF362@MN2PR12MB3551.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

FWIW I just started getting email flyers from Sports and Classics in Stamford, CT. Been a few years since I heard from them.
Regards,
Richard C


> On Dec 2, 2024, at 19:11, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?
> 
> bs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  2 18:47:19 2024
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2024 17:47:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <019301db4525$4b033710$e109a530$@sbcglobal.net>

When I google the name an ebay link comes up to Worldwide Autoparts on ebay.

js

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via
Healeys
Sent: Monday, December 2, 2024 5:02 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?

Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get is a
blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?

bs
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Dec  2 20:01:11 2024
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 03:01:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <019301db4525$4b033710$e109a530$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
 <019301db4525$4b033710$e109a530$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BL0PR11MB3396500337B91D1199FC44B4D1362@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Bob,
They also operate under NOS Imports. I deal with them regularly but have not called there for at least three months now, I can call there tomorrow and find out if they are still in business.

Jean
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of JSARCH via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: December 3, 2024 1:47 AM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?

When I google the name an ebay link comes up to Worldwide Autoparts on ebay.

js

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via
Healeys
Sent: Monday, December 2, 2024 5:02 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?

Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get is a
blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?

bs
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=05%7C02%7C%7Cbc0bb6bcffdd4b5e087608dd134404b5%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638687905061215814%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJFbXB0eU1hcGkiOnRydWUsIlYiOiIwLjAuMDAwMCIsIlAiOiJXaW4zMiIsIkFOIjoiTWFpbCIsIldUIjoyfQ%3D%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=PLZ%2FywGz7WiB%2BYJjDclPbbI5na3SpfP1exqFFGKoXVU%3D&reserved=0<http://www.team.net/donate.html> Suggested annual donation
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  2 23:36:01 2024
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2024 22:36:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <175d129d-c3d2-43e4-8040-2582c72164fe@comcast.net>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
 <019301db4525$4b033710$e109a530$@sbcglobal.net>
 <175d129d-c3d2-43e4-8040-2582c72164fe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006101db454d$9fd11640$df7342c0$@sbcglobal.net>

Interesting. I checked my restoration archive and World Wide Auto Parts rebuilt my shocks back in 2010.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, December 2, 2024 9:13 PM
To: JSARCH <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?

Not the same company (name theft?). Worldwide in Madison sells new and rebuilt Armstrong shocks.

https://www.ebay.com/str/worldwideautopartsstore


On 12/2/2024 5:47 PM, JSARCH wrote:
> When I google the name an ebay link comes up to Worldwide Autoparts on ebay.
>
> js
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob 
> Spidell via Healeys
> Sent: Monday, December 2, 2024 5:02 PM
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
>
> Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I 
> get is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?
>
> bs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation
> $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
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>


From dtwoerpel at gmail.com  Mon Dec  2 23:42:53 2024
From: dtwoerpel at gmail.com (Dave and Terri Woerpel)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 00:42:53 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>

Peter is still in business but is trying to retire but we won't let him.  I
just purchased a new front shock from him.  I'm close and stopped in. Try
calling. Usually Jane answers.
608.223.9400
He's looking to get rid of parts, hence eBay.
Regards,
Dave
'59 :()
'59 MGA 1500
"Pay It Forward"

On Mon, Dec 2, 2024, 7:16?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get
> is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?
>
> bs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Dec  3 10:16:34 2024
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 09:16:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
 <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCBRxqKcUv8qaO0u5exDhDRyiLM1Sg=6H_jJoSe3wgUyKg@mail.gmail.com>

Worldwide Auto Parts / NOS Imports rebuilt all 4 of my shocks and I
purchased a trunk lining kit from them. If they have any trunk lining kits
available I can recommend them.

Harold

On Mon, Dec 2, 2024 at 11:12?PM Dave and Terri Woerpel <dtwoerpel at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Peter is still in business but is trying to retire but we won't let him.
> I just purchased a new front shock from him.  I'm close and stopped in. Try
> calling. Usually Jane answers.
> 608.223.9400
> He's looking to get rid of parts, hence eBay.
> Regards,
> Dave
> '59 :()
> '59 MGA 1500
> "Pay It Forward"
>
> On Mon, Dec 2, 2024, 7:16?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get
>> is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?
>>
>> bs
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dtwoerpel at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Dec  3 10:49:44 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 12:49:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
 <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcH+o1XhtGxG3Ar-M4+9p3q5Zkb1w4gwyYFo4qTKwrVrQ@mail.gmail.com>

I hope Peter has someone to take over the business when he retires. It's
tough to find businesses that do great work on our LBCs and every time one
disappears it makes the classics harder to maintain and less desirable.

Ricki Neville aka "HealeyRick"

On Tue, Dec 3, 2024 at 2:29?AM Dave and Terri Woerpel <dtwoerpel at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Peter is still in business but is trying to retire but we won't let him.
> I just purchased a new front shock from him.  I'm close and stopped in. Try
> calling. Usually Jane answers.
> 608.223.9400
> He's looking to get rid of parts, hence eBay.
> Regards,
> Dave
> '59 :()
> '59 MGA 1500
> "Pay It Forward"
>
> On Mon, Dec 2, 2024, 7:16?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and all I get
>> is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?
>>
>> bs
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dtwoerpel at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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From dtwoerpel at gmail.com  Tue Dec  3 12:44:44 2024
From: dtwoerpel at gmail.com (David Woerpel)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 13:44:44 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZcH+o1XhtGxG3Ar-M4+9p3q5Zkb1w4gwyYFo4qTKwrVrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
 <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZcH+o1XhtGxG3Ar-M4+9p3q5Zkb1w4gwyYFo4qTKwrVrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <96cae7da-9848-44c9-82f5-50f57bc6e499@gmail.com>

Ricki makes an excellent point and one that applies to any skill trade 
not just our "hobby".? Finding people who have the dedication,drive, and 
most of all encyclopedic knowledge of the subject matter is what will be 
really missed.? So all youse old farts and fartettes that have that 
knowledge should write all this down to be given forward to the 
"younger" generation.? I'm in the process of doing that just on my own 
two LBCs my son will inherit. All the modifications, superseded parts 
that don't match the original in the parts book, and the idiosyncrasies 
of the car and its maintenance(not to mention fettling needed to get 
bootleg repro parts to fit). Trouble is there never enough time to 
document all this knowledge.? So young folk, make it a point to learn 
things! You are the experts of the future.? Ok of my soap box.
Dave
'59 :{)
'59 MGA 1500
"Pay It Forward"



On 12/3/2024 11:49 AM, HealeyRick wrote:
> I hope Peter has someone to take over the business when he retires. 
> It's tough to find businesses that do great work on our LBCs and every 
> time one disappears it makes the classics harder to maintain and less 
> desirable.
>
> Ricki Neville aka "HealeyRick"
>
> On Tue, Dec 3, 2024 at 2:29?AM Dave and Terri Woerpel 
> <dtwoerpel at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     Peter is still in business but is trying to retire but we won't
>     let him.? I just purchased a new front shock from him.? I'm close
>     and stopped in. Try calling. Usually Jane answers.
>     608.223.9400
>     He's looking to get rid of parts, hence eBay.
>     Regards,
>     Dave
>     '59 :()
>     '59 MGA 1500
>     "Pay It Forward"
>
>     On Mon, Dec 2, 2024, 7:16?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>         Just tried to bring up Worldwide Auto Parts (Madison, WI) and
>         all I get
>         is a blank page on both Firefox and Chrome. Anyone have a scoop?
>
>         bs
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dtwoerpel at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Dec  3 14:50:16 2024
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2024 14:50:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Did we lose another parts supplier?
In-Reply-To: <96cae7da-9848-44c9-82f5-50f57bc6e499@gmail.com>
References: <30e8eeb7-debc-4a75-8c22-6bbc815fccb9@comcast.net>
 <CADtDyyDKtZVEsbQt3L0nGOJrY_J7XqyUy6=xxRL++Fw99qPBeQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZcH+o1XhtGxG3Ar-M4+9p3q5Zkb1w4gwyYFo4qTKwrVrQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <96cae7da-9848-44c9-82f5-50f57bc6e499@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2282bda6-79f3-4b8c-bc53-6bcaecbc9247@bradakis.com>

On 12/3/24 12:44 PM, David Woerpel wrote:
> Ricki makes an excellent point and one that applies to any skill trade 
> not just our "hobby".? Finding people who have the dedication,drive, and 
> most of all encyclopedic knowledge of the subject matter is what will be 
> really missed.

I have a lathe out in the garage.  I got it for free.  My friend who ran 
this company no longer had any use for it.  It has no digital displays 
or counteers or anything like that.  All the old machinists are gone, 
the kids these days only know how to work CNC machines, they can't 
figure out how to work all these levers and gears and such.  I could 
have gotten a nice milling machine as well, but it went to my friend's 
shop.  I did get to use it when I needed to, though.  I should stop on 
in their someday, see how the place looks.  And maybe get back my big 
clamping set.

mjb.



From healeydoc at gmail.com  Wed Dec  4 07:09:56 2024
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2024 06:09:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Goldie For Sale (Again)
In-Reply-To: <CAEcLKwiLhM8S2unKw_YqS6a0qfkxB2BL63nMv-KNAbry-4DdSQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAEcLKwiLhM8S2unKw_YqS6a0qfkxB2BL63nMv-KNAbry-4DdSQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C4D77114-F25B-4E71-9B8F-9C052FF16D73@gmail.com>

Do we know anything about the sale of Goldie. 

We are planning the 2027 international Healey Meet, and we are trying to track down the special Healeys to hopefully have a good display for the meet. 


David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2024, at 8:45?PM, N.S. Bennett <nstbennett at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> NFI:
> 
> https://auburnclassiccars.com/listings/1958-austin-healey-100-six-goldie-roadster/
> 
> Nate B.
> '66 BJ8
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  4 09:26:57 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2024 16:26:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
Message-ID: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my clutch peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I finally got it to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in to place. Blipping the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues with OD at all. After cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I haven?t been in it again to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid reservoir is ok . 
I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging into the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could be ? Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year owner with no previous issues.
TIA
Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Dec  4 11:41:26 2024
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2024 13:41:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Goldie For Sale (Again)
In-Reply-To: <C4D77114-F25B-4E71-9B8F-9C052FF16D73@gmail.com>
References: <CAEcLKwiLhM8S2unKw_YqS6a0qfkxB2BL63nMv-KNAbry-4DdSQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <C4D77114-F25B-4E71-9B8F-9C052FF16D73@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfNoAhPW+RyHK31Nw_bs94Thk5cGdbWM5hBxCmDhRgLTA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi David,

Others may know better than me, but I'm not sure Dennis Collins has ever
sold Goldie.  It's still on his website:
https://collinsbrosjeep.com/1958-austin-healey-100-6-goldie-roadster-chassis-no-bn62260/.
Try contacting them, if they no longer own it, I bet they know where it is.

Rick Neville aka HealeyRick

On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 9:41?AM David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:

> Do we know anything about the sale of Goldie.
>
> We are planning the 2027 international Healey Meet, and we are trying to
> track down the special Healeys to hopefully have a good display for the
> meet.
>
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 9, 2024, at 8:45?PM, N.S. Bennett <nstbennett at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> NFI:
>
>
> https://auburnclassiccars.com/listings/1958-austin-healey-100-six-goldie-roadster/
>
> Nate B.
> '66 BJ8
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Dec  4 15:36:00 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2024 14:36:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6f7e8211-4cc2-4579-b6fe-12c25c68d58d@comcast.net>

Spitballs (in descending order of likelihood; i.e. slim to slimmer):

- obstruction in the M/C<->S/C line (think of a BB lodged in the outlet 
that falls out)

- pedal<->M/C linkage kinked, bent, jammed somehow

- M/C? and/or S/C seal stuck

- release bearing lever somehow worn/jammed (wouldn't likely 'repair 
itself')

- S/C lever cocked or kinked

'Vapor lock;' i.e. air in the line would just result in a soft pedal 
(and wouldn't heal).



On 12/4/2024 8:26 AM, Richard Collins wrote:
> Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my clutch peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I finally got it to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in to place. Blipping the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues with OD at all. After cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I haven?t been in it again to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid reservoir is ok .
> I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging into the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could be ? Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
> FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year owner with no previous issues.
> TIA
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> _______________________________________________
>
>


From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Dec  4 15:54:44 2024
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 4 Dec 2024 22:54:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
In-Reply-To: <6f7e8211-4cc2-4579-b6fe-12c25c68d58d@comcast.net>
References: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <6f7e8211-4cc2-4579-b6fe-12c25c68d58d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <f9a6b719-aa77-4549-afd6-3f5e273c4065@summaventures.com>

I don't know, but I had something similar a while ago in my car. Reverse 
just refused to engage but then first went unless you were very gentle 
with it. It turned out to be a stuck cog and then we found that some 
shim "adjustments" had been made to the 'box  when it was being rebuilt. 
The "adjustments" had shattered leaving bits in the fluid, which 
eventually...

Sound a possibility that something like that happened?

Good luck,

Peter

On 04/12/2024 22:36, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
> Spitballs (in descending order of likelihood; i.e. slim to slimmer):
> 
> - obstruction in the M/C<->S/C line (think of a BB lodged in the outlet 
> that falls out)
> 
> - pedal<->M/C linkage kinked, bent, jammed somehow
> 
> - M/C? and/or S/C seal stuck
> 
> - release bearing lever somehow worn/jammed (wouldn't likely 'repair 
> itself')
> 
> - S/C lever cocked or kinked
> 
> 'Vapor lock;' i.e. air in the line would just result in a soft pedal 
> (and wouldn't heal).
> 
> 
> 
> On 12/4/2024 8:26 AM, Richard Collins wrote:
>> Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my 
>> clutch peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I 
>> finally got it to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in 
>> to place. Blipping the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues 
>> with OD at all. After cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I 
>> haven?t been in it again to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid 
>> reservoir is ok .
>> I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging 
>> into the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could 
>> be ? Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
>> FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year 
>> owner with no previous issues.
>> TIA
>> Regards,
>> Richard C
>> BN7 440
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/ 
> archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ 
> pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig


From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  4 17:04:18 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2024 00:04:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
In-Reply-To: <f9a6b719-aa77-4549-afd6-3f5e273c4065@summaventures.com>
References: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <6f7e8211-4cc2-4579-b6fe-12c25c68d58d@comcast.net>
 <f9a6b719-aa77-4549-afd6-3f5e273c4065@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR12MB3546E74B043E887CB4C1A9AABF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks folks
I think that about covers it.
I?ll let you know what I find but not tomorrow as garage is not heated. Forecast in the 20?s but no snow or fires so no complaints actually versus some of you who are in problem areas.
Happy Holidays to all.
Regards,
Richard Collins
Bowling Green, KY
BN7 440


> On Dec 4, 2024, at 17:16, Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I don't know, but I had something similar a while ago in my car. Reverse just refused to engage but then first went unless you were very gentle with it. It turned out to be a stuck cog and then we found that some shim "adjustments" had been made to the 'box  when it was being rebuilt. The "adjustments" had shattered leaving bits in the fluid, which eventually...
> 
> Sound a possibility that something like that happened?
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Peter
> 
>> On 04/12/2024 22:36, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
>> Spitballs (in descending order of likelihood; i.e. slim to slimmer):
>> - obstruction in the M/C<->S/C line (think of a BB lodged in the outlet that falls out)
>> - pedal<->M/C linkage kinked, bent, jammed somehow
>> - M/C  and/or S/C seal stuck
>> - release bearing lever somehow worn/jammed (wouldn't likely 'repair itself')
>> - S/C lever cocked or kinked
>> 'Vapor lock;' i.e. air in the line would just result in a soft pedal (and wouldn't heal).
>>> On 12/4/2024 8:26 AM, Richard Collins wrote:
>>> Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my clutch peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I finally got it to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in to place. Blipping the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues with OD at all. After cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I haven?t been in it again to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid reservoir is ok .
>>> I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging into the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could be ? Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
>>> FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year owner with no previous issues.
>>> TIA
>>> Regards,
>>> Richard C
>>> BN7 440
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/ archive/healeys
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 
> --
> 
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Dec  4 17:05:37 2024
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2024 00:05:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR12MB3546E74B043E887CB4C1A9AABF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <6f7e8211-4cc2-4579-b6fe-12c25c68d58d@comcast.net>
 <f9a6b719-aa77-4549-afd6-3f5e273c4065@summaventures.com>
 <DM6PR12MB3546E74B043E887CB4C1A9AABF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR12MB35461987D630BF16A6357505BF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

I leaning toward a linkage issue?
Regards,
Richard C


> On Dec 4, 2024, at 18:04, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks folks
> I think that about covers it.
> I?ll let you know what I find but not tomorrow as garage is not heated. Forecast in the 20?s but no snow or fires so no complaints actually versus some of you who are in problem areas.
> Happy Holidays to all.
> Regards,
> Richard Collins
> Bowling Green, KY
> BN7 440
> 
> 
>> On Dec 4, 2024, at 17:16, Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?I don't know, but I had something similar a while ago in my car. Reverse just refused to engage but then first went unless you were very gentle with it. It turned out to be a stuck cog and then we found that some shim "adjustments" had been made to the 'box  when it was being rebuilt. The "adjustments" had shattered leaving bits in the fluid, which eventually...
>> 
>> Sound a possibility that something like that happened?
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>>>> On 04/12/2024 22:36, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
>>> Spitballs (in descending order of likelihood; i.e. slim to slimmer):
>>> - obstruction in the M/C<->S/C line (think of a BB lodged in the outlet that falls out)
>>> - pedal<->M/C linkage kinked, bent, jammed somehow
>>> - M/C  and/or S/C seal stuck
>>> - release bearing lever somehow worn/jammed (wouldn't likely 'repair itself')
>>> - S/C lever cocked or kinked
>>> 'Vapor lock;' i.e. air in the line would just result in a soft pedal (and wouldn't heal).
>>>> On 12/4/2024 8:26 AM, Richard Collins wrote:
>>>> Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my clutch peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I finally got it to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in to place. Blipping the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues with OD at all. After cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I haven?t been in it again to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid reservoir is ok .
>>>> I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging into the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could be ? Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
>>>> FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year owner with no previous issues.
>>>> TIA
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Richard C
>>>> BN7 440
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/ archive/healeys
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ pdzwig at summaventures.com
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Dr. Peter Dzwig
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>> 

From ah53 at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  4 18:50:17 2024
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (jomar healey)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2024 01:50:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR12MB35461987D630BF16A6357505BF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <6f7e8211-4cc2-4579-b6fe-12c25c68d58d@comcast.net>
 <f9a6b719-aa77-4549-afd6-3f5e273c4065@summaventures.com>
 <DM6PR12MB3546E74B043E887CB4C1A9AABF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <DM6PR12MB35461987D630BF16A6357505BF302@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <163034494.6046750.1733363418006@mail.yahoo.com>

 Bad clutch hose?
    On Wednesday, December 4, 2024, 07:37:32 PM EST, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I leaning toward a linkage issue?
Regards,
Richard C


> On Dec 4, 2024, at 18:04, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks folks
> I think that about covers it.
> I?ll let you know what I find but not tomorrow as garage is not heated. Forecast in the 20?s but no snow or fires so no complaints actually versus some of you who are in problem areas.
> Happy Holidays to all.
> Regards,
> Richard Collins
> Bowling Green, KY
> BN7 440
> 
> 
>> On Dec 4, 2024, at 17:16, Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?I don't know, but I had something similar a while ago in my car. Reverse just refused to engage but then first went unless you were very gentle with it. It turned out to be a stuck cog and then we found that some shim "adjustments" had been made to the 'box? when it was being rebuilt. The "adjustments" had shattered leaving bits in the fluid, which eventually...
>> 
>> Sound a possibility that something like that happened?
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>> Peter
>> 
>>>> On 04/12/2024 22:36, Bob Spidell via Healeys wrote:
>>> Spitballs (in descending order of likelihood; i.e. slim to slimmer):
>>> - obstruction in the M/C<->S/C line (think of a BB lodged in the outlet that falls out)
>>> - pedal<->M/C linkage kinked, bent, jammed somehow
>>> - M/C? and/or S/C seal stuck
>>> - release bearing lever somehow worn/jammed (wouldn't likely 'repair itself')
>>> - S/C lever cocked or kinked
>>> 'Vapor lock;' i.e. air in the line would just result in a soft pedal (and wouldn't heal).
>>>> On 12/4/2024 8:26 AM, Richard Collins wrote:
>>>> Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my clutch peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I finally got it to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in to place. Blipping the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues with OD at all. After cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I haven?t been in it again to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid reservoir is ok .
>>>> I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging into the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could be ? Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
>>>> FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year owner with no previous issues.
>>>> TIA
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Richard C
>>>> BN7 440
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/ archive/healeys
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ pdzwig at summaventures.com
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Dr. Peter Dzwig
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>> 
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Dec  5 00:03:23 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 5 Dec 2024 08:03:23 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Any Ideas ?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR12MB354645A77260B518EFE81354BF372@DM6PR12MB3546.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJO8avqvGaz=WzsYtdzz2q4c6jdrJk1-sm3VRpRL73Gzg@mail.gmail.com>

I concur ... clutch hose disintegrating internally.

On Wed., Dec. 4, 2024, 5:31 p.m. Richard Collins, <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Driving my BN7 on back country roads here in Kentucky last week, my clutch
> peddle wouldn?t go down or stuck in the UP position. When I finally got it
> to Go down so I could shift the gears slide slowly in to place. Blipping
> the throttle helped shifting to get home. No issues with OD at all. After
> cooling down at home, all seemed normal again. I haven?t been in it again
> to see if it duplicates itself. Fluid reservoir is ok .
> I?m guessing a vapor lock in the system but before I start digging into
> the trannie and linkage does anyone have a hint of what it could be ?
> Usually with a bad clutch the peddle goes to the floor.
> FWIW I have a top shifter and not the original side shifter. 20 year owner
> with no previous issues.
> TIA
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Dec 15 16:05:18 2024
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2024 18:05:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox heat shield
Message-ID: <9998c6f5-d0f4-4835-8612-de0309963e8b@earthlink.net>

Listers,

The cars fitted with a side shift gearbox have a sheet metal firewall 
extension with a rubber sheet that seals against the gearbox.? Why did 
the factory not do the same with the center shift gearbox?? To reduce 
cost or to improve airflow through the engine compartment, or?

Cheers,

-- 
Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Dec 21 12:12:08 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2024 11:12:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
Message-ID: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>

FYI ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Dec 21 13:16:54 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2024 15:16:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>

As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels
with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of
round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when
originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve
things.
The only solutions are:
1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip
and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)
3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably
effective).
4. Put up with the scuttle shake.

M

On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> FYI ...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Dec 21 18:42:58 2024
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2024 20:42:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>

I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and, as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.
I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:  www.hendrixwirewheel.com <http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com> 
Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.
 
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
 
As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve things. 
The only solutions are:
1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)
3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably effective).
4. Put up with the scuttle shake.
 
M
 
On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
FYI ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Dec 21 19:23:54 2024
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2024 21:23:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5PfnVwyaikNA-Oh4=qYMTQECRw3jDZEyPurJc1wJdEOQ@mail.gmail.com>

People such as Allen should not be allowed to retire.


On Sat, Dec 21, 2024 at 9:08?PM sbyers--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at
> Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire
> work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and,
> as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.
>
> I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:
> www.hendrixwirewheel.com
>
> Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels
> with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of
> round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when
> originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve
> things.
>
> The only solutions are:
>
> 1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
>
> 2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip
> and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)
>
> 3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably
> effective).
>
> 4. Put up with the scuttle shake.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> FYI ...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 21 19:49:17 2024
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2024 18:49:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMH1nJ5hn8xp0n1qxq21UvocNv=-Fcy1YD6juO6rG08kg@mail.gmail.com>

For those in the Los Angeles area you can go to Nate Jones Tire  at 1896
Redondo Ave, Signal Hill, CA.  They specialize in antique and wire wheel
work.  They can mount, shave and true wire wheels. Not overly expensive
either. Phone is (562) 597-3369
Mike MacLean

On Sat, Dec 21, 2024 at 5:59?PM sbyers--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at
> Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire
> work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and,
> as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.
>
> I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:
> www.hendrixwirewheel.com
>
> Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels
> with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of
> round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when
> originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve
> things.
>
> The only solutions are:
>
> 1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
>
> 2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip
> and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)
>
> 3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably
> effective).
>
> 4. Put up with the scuttle shake.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> FYI ...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 22 10:48:14 2024
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 17:48:14 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR84MB311014400BEC6241811AE7E3A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Hendrix has done my wheels (and break drums) for 20 years. No shakes! Price is very fair but shipping is the killer. I came home from California Healey Week in San Louis Obispo last summer with 7 broken spokes. $250 for shipping wheel with tires to Hendrix. Allens work, with balance, truing wheels and re shaving tires was about $125 and $125 for shipping back. When I needed new tires two years ago, they are sent direct to Hendrix overnight. He is very fast. The UPS, not so much. As I live in snow country, I have a very short driving season so speed is important to me.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of sbyers--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 5:42 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing


I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and, as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.

I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:  www.hendrixwirewheel.com<http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com>

Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.



Steve Byers

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large





From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing



As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve things.

The only solutions are:

1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)

2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)

3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably effective).

4. Put up with the scuttle shake.



M



On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

FYI ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 11:04:06 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 13:04:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR84MB311014400BEC6241811AE7E3A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
 <DS7PR84MB311014400BEC6241811AE7E3A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLuQvYqbEy9r8PxK1Xv413td+W7yAy_E-K6CEDtU=OfBA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm intrigued to hear of your broken spoke issue. I haven't experienced
even 1 broken spoke for many many years. Do you have any insight as to the
cause? It's something that I would very much like to avoid.

M

On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 12:52 p.m. Richard Kahn, <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> Hendrix has done my wheels (and break drums) for 20 years. No shakes!
> Price is very fair but shipping is the killer. I came home from California
> Healey Week in San Louis Obispo last summer with 7 broken spokes. $250 for
> shipping wheel with tires to Hendrix. Allens work, with balance, truing
> wheels and re shaving tires was about $125 and $125 for shipping back. When
> I needed new tires two years ago, they are sent direct to Hendrix
> overnight. He is very fast. The UPS, not so much. As I live in snow
> country, I have a very short driving season so speed is important to me.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of sbyers---
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 5:42 PM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
> I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at
> Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire
> work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and,
> as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.
>
> I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:
> www.hendrixwirewheel.com
>
> Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels
> with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of
> round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when
> originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve
> things.
>
> The only solutions are:
>
> 1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
>
> 2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip
> and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)
>
> 3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably
> effective).
>
> 4. Put up with the scuttle shake.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> FYI ...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 22 12:43:54 2024
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 19:43:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLuQvYqbEy9r8PxK1Xv413td+W7yAy_E-K6CEDtU=OfBA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
 <DS7PR84MB311014400BEC6241811AE7E3A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CAB3i7LLuQvYqbEy9r8PxK1Xv413td+W7yAy_E-K6CEDtU=OfBA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DS7PR84MB31103470A2E6952A350F8E00A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Hendrix believes they were older chrome spokes. As I have broken spokes often in the past, I have a Harbor Freight tire remover rig. Over the years, I have replaced spokes with stainless so I believe their strength puts excess train on the chrome ones. I think I have now replaced 80% of the chrome ones on that wheel. I don't drive hard or drive during pot hole season. However, going to CHW on interstate 5, I hit many "uneven" construction areas with considerable jolts. Usually, I have only had to replace one spoke ever year or two. Outer spokes are easy and I have never had to replace the inner shorter ones.
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 10:04 AM
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing

I'm intrigued to hear of your broken spoke issue. I haven't experienced even 1 broken spoke for many many years. Do you have any insight as to the cause? It's something that I would very much like to avoid.

M

On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 12:52 p.m. Richard Kahn, <tahoehealey at hotmail.com<mailto:tahoehealey at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Hendrix has done my wheels (and break drums) for 20 years. No shakes! Price is very fair but shipping is the killer. I came home from California Healey Week in San Louis Obispo last summer with 7 broken spokes. $250 for shipping wheel with tires to Hendrix. Allens work, with balance, truing wheels and re shaving tires was about $125 and $125 for shipping back. When I needed new tires two years ago, they are sent direct to Hendrix overnight. He is very fast. The UPS, not so much. As I live in snow country, I have a very short driving season so speed is important to me.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of sbyers--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 5:42 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing


I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and, as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.

I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:  www.hendrixwirewheel.com<http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com>

Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.



Steve Byers

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large





From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing



As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve things.

The only solutions are:

1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)

2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)

3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably effective).

4. Put up with the scuttle shake.



M



On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

FYI ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Dec 22 12:53:30 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 11:53:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMH1nJ5hn8xp0n1qxq21UvocNv=-Fcy1YD6juO6rG08kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
 <CAL4ZEOMH1nJ5hn8xp0n1qxq21UvocNv=-Fcy1YD6juO6rG08kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <27c0b408-e81e-49a2-b13a-aa33a08cd9da@comcast.net>

re: "I'm intrigued to hear of your broken spoke issue. I haven't 
experienced even 1 broken spoke for many many years. Do you have any 
insight as to the cause? It's something that I would very much like to 
avoid."

I had a couple spokes break shortly after buying my BJ8. As far as I 
could tell, they were the OEM 60-spoke painted wheels, with 185/70R 
Pirellis on them. I bought new 72-spoke, 6in. chrome/stainless from 
Bruce Erfer and haven't had a failure yet.

I have learned, usually the hard way, that 'upgrading' one part of a 
suspension can cause negative effects on other parts. The 60-spokers 
would originally have been shod with 165 tires, possibly not even 
radials. I put a stiffer front sway bar on and promptly broke the links. 
I think if you put beefier tires and wider rims on you need to keep a 
close eye on your shock mounts (one of mine cracked with the 185/70s).


ps. For the record, I posted the video because it showed the procedures 
for balancing wires; which I knew was bespoke (heh) to WWs but didn't 
know the exact techniques. I found it interesting that proper balancing 
/could/ be achieved without the special cones, but it seemed hit-or-miss.



On 12/21/2024 6:49 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> For those in the Los Angeles area you can go to Nate Jones Tire? at 
> 1896 Redondo Ave, Signal Hill, CA.? They specialize in antique and 
> wire wheel work.? They can mount, shave and true wire wheels. Not 
> overly expensive either. Phone is (562) 597-3369
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Sat, Dec 21, 2024 at 5:59?PM sbyers--- via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at
>     Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel
>     and tire work for 40 years.He does the spoke truing, balancing,
>     and shaving and, as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.For
>     sure.
>
>     I know some folks send their wheels to him for the
>     service:www.hendrixwirewheel.com <http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com>
>
>     Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.
>
>     Steve Byers
>
>     BJ8 Registry
>
>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>     *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of
>     *Michael Salter
>     *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
>     *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>     *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>     As I? mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new
>     wheels with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels
>     tend to go out of round over the years, probably because of uneven
>     spoke tension when originally built, and once that occurs no
>     amount of balancing will resolve things.
>
>     The only solutions are:
>
>     1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
>
>     2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced
>     skill], strip and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and
>     time consuming)
>
>     3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and
>     remarkably effective).
>
>     4. Put up with the scuttle shake.
>
>     M
>
>     On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys,
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>         FYI ...
>
>         https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Dec 22 13:24:38 2024
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 15:24:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <DS7PR84MB31103470A2E6952A350F8E00A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
 <DS7PR84MB311014400BEC6241811AE7E3A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CAB3i7LLuQvYqbEy9r8PxK1Xv413td+W7yAy_E-K6CEDtU=OfBA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR84MB31103470A2E6952A350F8E00A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <00b201db54af$862233c0$92669b40$@sympatico.ca>

Like Mike, I have very rarely broken a spoke.  I have a 59 BT7 with 48 spoke
painted wheels.  I am only the second owner, knew the first owner well and
have had the car for 50 years.  I ran the original wheels until 2008 at
which point I replaced all 5, mainly for peace of mind as I was worried
about metal fatigue.  I only have had them trued once, sometime in the late
70s.  In all that time I can only ever remember having three spokes break on
me, all on the original set of wheels.

 

Cheers, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Kahn via
Healeys
Sent: December 22, 2024 2:44 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing

 

Hendrix believes they were older chrome spokes. As I have broken spokes
often in the past, I have a Harbor Freight tire remover rig. Over the years,
I have replaced spokes with stainless so I believe their strength puts
excess train on the chrome ones. I think I have now replaced 80% of the
chrome ones on that wheel. I don't drive hard or drive during pot hole
season. However, going to CHW on interstate 5, I hit many "uneven"
construction areas with considerable jolts. Usually, I have only had to
replace one spoke ever year or two. Outer spokes are easy and I have never
had to replace the inner shorter ones.

  _____  

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 10:04 AM
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com <mailto:tahoehealey at hotmail.com> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >; BJ8
Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing 

 

I'm intrigued to hear of your broken spoke issue. I haven't experienced even
1 broken spoke for many many years. Do you have any insight as to the cause?
It's something that I would very much like to avoid. 

 

M

 

On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 12:52 p.m. Richard Kahn, <tahoehealey at hotmail.com
<mailto:tahoehealey at hotmail.com> > wrote:

Hendrix has done my wheels (and break drums) for 20 years. No shakes! Price
is very fair but shipping is the killer. I came home from California Healey
Week in San Louis Obispo last summer with 7 broken spokes. $250 for shipping
wheel with tires to Hendrix. Allens work, with balance, truing wheels and re
shaving tires was about $125 and $125 for shipping back. When I needed new
tires two years ago, they are sent direct to Hendrix overnight. He is very
fast. The UPS, not so much. As I live in snow country, I have a very short
driving season so speed is important to me.

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of sbyers--- via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 5:42 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing 

 

I'm fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at Hendrixwirewheel
(about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire work for 40 years.
He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and, as his website says,
he "takes the shake out".  For sure.

I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:
www.hendrixwirewheel.com <http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com> 

Don't know what we'll do when he decides to hang it up.

 

Steve Byers

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing

 

As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels with
new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of round
over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when originally
built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve things. 

The only solutions are:

1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)

2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip
and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)

3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably
effective).

4. Put up with the scuttle shake.

 

M

 

On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys,
<healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

FYI ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 13:28:57 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 20:28:57 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 14:39:10 2024
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 16:39:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
In-Reply-To: <00b201db54af$862233c0$92669b40$@sympatico.ca>
References: <9f908f21-b30e-4410-83e4-94db5967a31a@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LJQuWLzSgVxxRr_yxev6q15y-3iCf_SdbMBszdUoju+5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <000901db5412$d5c98560$815c9020$@ec.rr.com>
 <DS7PR84MB311014400BEC6241811AE7E3A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <CAB3i7LLuQvYqbEy9r8PxK1Xv413td+W7yAy_E-K6CEDtU=OfBA@mail.gmail.com>
 <DS7PR84MB31103470A2E6952A350F8E00A4012@DS7PR84MB3110.NAMPRD84.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <00b201db54af$862233c0$92669b40$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4rKwKDu3xQU1EK_O9RE69mfm9xd2--cWsGUq8CLyAkDA@mail.gmail.com>

I seem to recall that chromed spokes fell out of favor because the plating
process made them more brittle and susceptible to breakage.

On Sun, Dec 22, 2024 at 4:05?PM <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Like Mike, I have very rarely broken a spoke.  I have a 59 BT7 with 48
> spoke painted wheels.  I am only the second owner, knew the first owner
> well and have had the car for 50 years.  I ran the original wheels until
> 2008 at which point I replaced all 5, mainly for peace of mind as I was
> worried about metal fatigue.  I only have had them trued once, sometime in
> the late 70s.  In all that time I can only ever remember having three
> spokes break on me, all on the original set of wheels.
>
>
>
> Cheers, Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Kahn via Healeys
> *Sent:* December 22, 2024 2:44 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> Hendrix believes they were older chrome spokes. As I have broken spokes
> often in the past, I have a Harbor Freight tire remover rig. Over the
> years, I have replaced spokes with stainless so I believe their strength
> puts excess train on the chrome ones. I think I have now replaced 80% of
> the chrome ones on that wheel. I don't drive hard or drive during pot hole
> season. However, going to CHW on interstate 5, I hit many "uneven"
> construction areas with considerable jolts. Usually, I have only had to
> replace one spoke ever year or two. Outer spokes are easy and I have never
> had to replace the inner shorter ones.
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 22, 2024 10:04 AM
> *To:* Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8 Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> I'm intrigued to hear of your broken spoke issue. I haven't experienced
> even 1 broken spoke for many many years. Do you have any insight as to the
> cause? It's something that I would very much like to avoid.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 12:52 p.m. Richard Kahn, <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hendrix has done my wheels (and break drums) for 20 years. No shakes!
> Price is very fair but shipping is the killer. I came home from California
> Healey Week in San Louis Obispo last summer with 7 broken spokes. $250 for
> shipping wheel with tires to Hendrix. Allens work, with balance, truing
> wheels and re shaving tires was about $125 and $125 for shipping back. When
> I needed new tires two years ago, they are sent direct to Hendrix
> overnight. He is very fast. The UPS, not so much. As I live in snow
> country, I have a very short driving season so speed is important to me.
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of sbyers---
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 5:42 PM
> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> I?m fortunate to live relatively close to Allen Hendrix at
> Hendrixwirewheel (about 240 miles) and he has done all my wheel and tire
> work for 40 years.  He does the spoke truing, balancing, and shaving and,
> as his website says, he ?takes the shake out?.  For sure.
>
> I know some folks send their wheels to him for the service:
> www.hendrixwirewheel.com
>
> Don?t know what we?ll do when he decides to hang it up.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 21, 2024 3:17 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] WW Balancing
>
>
>
> As I  mentioned elsewhere what is shown is all very well for new wheels
> with new tyres however, in my experience, all wire wheels tend to go out of
> round over the years, probably because of uneven spoke tension when
> originally built, and once that occurs no amount of balancing will resolve
> things.
>
> The only solutions are:
>
> 1.Buy new wheels and tyres again. (Expensive)
>
> 2. Remove the tyres and have the wheels "trued" [an advanced skill], strip
> and repaint then remount new tyres, (Expensive and time consuming)
>
> 3. Shave the tyres as they are on the wheel. ( Inexpensive and remarkably
> effective).
>
> 4. Put up with the scuttle shake.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Sat., Dec. 21, 2024, 2:17 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> FYI ...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD3NYLtqiLM
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 15:06:43 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 17:06:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>
References: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+sOAk12feSCW=OSWrMJyswY_9tU8sc3=4fnxQ7T365eg@mail.gmail.com>

Very frustrating indeed.
I would comment that I don't believe that the needle is really meant to be
a "shut off" valve as there is always a tiny annular gap between it and the
jet. I presume that with the suction chamber and piston removed the fuel
level is observed to be at least 1/8" below the top of the jet.
I  can assure you that when everything is correct they don't leak.

M

On Sun., Dec. 22, 2024, 4:11 p.m. Hank Leach via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor
> overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but
> must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center
> and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel
> to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and
> replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
> British Car.
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb
> cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places
> checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be
> between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090.
> Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean
> that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
> .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks
> up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in
> the rain.
>
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass
> ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 15:19:23 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:19:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] WW Balancing
Message-ID: <b06d9132-58b0-9140-04d3-1689d9faf8a2@charter.net>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 22 15:23:26 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 14:23:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>
References: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>
Message-ID: <006DF954-A19B-4AB4-B91B-B8EB4CDF23D5@gmail.com>

Hank,

If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.

The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different settings. 

Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where the problem is. 

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com



> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube. 
>  
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking. 
>  
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British Car. 
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.
>  
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>  
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
> 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 15:31:56 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:31:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <c7cc9b4a-5d3a-9367-f841-d34fcd581537@charter.net>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 15:49:47 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:49:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <343cf591-a5ca-51a9-f15a-c5d001e33323@charter.net>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 22 15:53:12 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 22:53:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>
References: <e026cd89-f218-01ab-fa56-1816db140e1e@charter.net>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB444513B43A2DE1A72FA219DCA5012@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>


Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper for the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn?t even touch it. Considering that this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM
To: Healey team <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

 I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.

No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.

I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.

I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.

I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 16:15:07 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 23:15:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <3abcca24-a9e8-4dcb-aee8-5befb3088263@charter.net>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 22 16:31:47 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 23:31:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <3abcca24-a9e8-4dcb-aee8-5befb3088263@charter.net>
References: <3abcca24-a9e8-4dcb-aee8-5befb3088263@charter.net>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB44458DFF8D0494D6058A5F31A5012@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>


Hank, I think replacing one component at a time might get you to a solution faster.

In a case not related I recently spent several days diagnosing a carburetor problem (surprisingly not SU) with no progress only to give up and check the distributor. My new condenser was bad out of the box. Someone said that 90 percent of carburetor problems are electrical. Case in point.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 11:15 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>; Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

Bill-this car is 588 just 30+ from your car so about the same age parts-very old. I just mentioned that I'm swapping the floats and needle valves per carb for a test check. The float lids, although the shut off point for the incoming fuel, do not affect the fuel going out the bottom of the bowl to the carb body. I have a new NOS body and all new old stock gaskets, valves, etc.so I could "build" a new carburetor.

Being as anal as I am, I have put off that thought as I was trying to not use replacements but rather all original parts on my car. Yes, some small cracks in that old casting could be the cause. I may have to give in and replace the old duffer with the new item in the box. Hank
--------------------

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:53 PM PST
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper for the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn?t even touch it. Considering that this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM
To: Healey team <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

 I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.

No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.

I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.

I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.

I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 22 16:46:39 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 23:46:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR20MB44458DFF8D0494D6058A5F31A5012@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
References: <3abcca24-a9e8-4dcb-aee8-5befb3088263@charter.net>
 <PH0PR20MB44458DFF8D0494D6058A5F31A5012@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB4445A48CCAA60C2D2850C23CA5012@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Hank, the fuel level in the bowl is the same as the level at the bridge. If the fuel level is too high, or if the bowl is overflowing the fuel will also run out of the jet. I suspect the casting for the float bowl top, either a crack or a damaged thread in the needle valve orifice. Either will cause your symptoms.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 11:31 PM
To: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>; Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube


Hank, I think replacing one component at a time might get you to a solution faster.

In a case not related I recently spent several days diagnosing a carburetor problem (surprisingly not SU) with no progress only to give up and check the distributor. My new condenser was bad out of the box. Someone said that 90 percent of carburetor problems are electrical. Case in point.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 11:15 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>; Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

Bill-this car is 588 just 30+ from your car so about the same age parts-very old. I just mentioned that I'm swapping the floats and needle valves per carb for a test check. The float lids, although the shut off point for the incoming fuel, do not affect the fuel going out the bottom of the bowl to the carb body. I have a new NOS body and all new old stock gaskets, valves, etc.so I could "build" a new carburetor.

Being as anal as I am, I have put off that thought as I was trying to not use replacements but rather all original parts on my car. Yes, some small cracks in that old casting could be the cause. I may have to give in and replace the old duffer with the new item in the box. Hank
--------------------

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:53 PM PST
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

Hank, Mike is correct that the jet needle is not intended to be a stopper for the jet. In fact in theory it shouldn?t even touch it. Considering that this appears to be a chronic problem on only one carburetor and with all you have attempted to correct it, it seems to me the problem is a defect in the carburetor itself. If the needle valve and float are in good condition and in adjustment the fuel level in the bowl and at the venturi bridge will never be high enough to run out of the jet. It seems that there is a flaw or a crack in or around the needle valve orifice that is allowing fuel to leak past the needle valve. Have you tried switching out the fuel bowl lid? Hope this helps. Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2024 8:28 PM
To: Healey team <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

 I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.

No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.

I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.

I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.

I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Dec 22 17:28:41 2024
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2024 19:28:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <343cf591-a5ca-51a9-f15a-c5d001e33323@charter.net>
References: <343cf591-a5ca-51a9-f15a-c5d001e33323@charter.net>
Message-ID: <550a4b57-6b11-4e9d-83cf-d4cb7cb786c6@earthlink.net>

Hank,

I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not 
plastic.? Supposedly unsinkable.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static 
> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston 
> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or 
> as you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs 
> together it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The 
> suggestion that was made that we really need to have clear plastic 
> float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing 
> hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand 
> its positive.
> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on 
> the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats 
> instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float 
> and needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one 
> will now start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a 
> dry day (next year?) to test that theory.
> --------------------
>
> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Hank,
> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in 
> the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube. 
> ?Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with 
> this assumption.
> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float 
> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why 
> float level is so important. ?If fuel is flowing out of ?the jet 
> before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber 
> then your float level is set too high. ?You need to close the float 
> needle valve with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th 
> as a guide, try 1/2? and see if that stops the flow. ?But then you 
> said you tried different settings.
> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all 
> the way to the top to close the needle valve? ?Try a different float. 
> Polish the post. ?Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the 
> casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat. 
> ?I think that?s where the problem is.
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>     On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>     ?I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>     carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very
>     simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find
>     that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the
>     flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area
>     and out overflow drain tube.
>     No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and
>     clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and
>     reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor
>     and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.? Both carb pistons drop
>     with a clunk at the same time.? Turn on key- fuel pump
>     clicking-overflow again leaking.
>     I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced
>     many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are
>     not leaking.? I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but
>     then again, this is a British Car.
>     Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid
>     with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no
>     leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new"
>     parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if
>     not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as
>     specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am
>     tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
>     .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all
>     testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere
>     so best done outside in the rain.
>     I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the
>     simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is
>     applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With
>     covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure
>     is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump
>     and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick,
>     tick which it should not do! Fuel is going out and down the drain
>     tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top
>     of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure
>     the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to
>     see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total
>     on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss
>     India knockoffs.
>     I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the
>     carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally
>     with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says
>     use plastic floats...Hank
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 17:32:36 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 00:32:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <9fd5ce00-e001-2ef4-86c7-a5bfc5fe23be@charter.net>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Dec 22 18:59:48 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 01:59:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <59fdc693-49eb-425a-3b94-4c7729663bd8@charter.net>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 22 22:29:09 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 05:29:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <59fdc693-49eb-425a-3b94-4c7729663bd8@charter.net>
References: <59fdc693-49eb-425a-3b94-4c7729663bd8@charter.net>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB44451B9AF1B11987A01C0424A5022@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or maybe tertiary?

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location) Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:

"These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the fuel could not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into the engine. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."

The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trapped air? Hank
--------------------

From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

Hank,

I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.

If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next year?) to test that theory.
--------------------

From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com><mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net><mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>
Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Hank,

If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.

The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different settings.

Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where the problem is.

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com<mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>


On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
 I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.

No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.

I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British Car.
Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.

I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.

I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
_______________________________________________
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Dec 23 11:33:11 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 18:33:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <942bd419-896b-a33c-aa6d-0d2663e2917a@charter.net>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Dec 23 13:21:41 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 15:21:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <942bd419-896b-a33c-aa6d-0d2663e2917a@charter.net>
References: <942bd419-896b-a33c-aa6d-0d2663e2917a@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJmdsZjbSPJtSf3CEoshq3s4pCjp-H3c-X-cTXqNon1EA@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carburettor,
fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float chamber
float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is only the
flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is positioned,
that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the airflow and into
the inlet manifold.
This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
<https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle>
which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.

M

On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in
> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc.
> only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid float
> lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air
> vent).
>
> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the float
> chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between the
> two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
> petrol supply" to start the car.
> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet into
> the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now turning
> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the
> intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So the important
> procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank the engine
> immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.  I'm here
> testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to
> do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>
> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the
> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like
> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float
> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>
>
> --------------------
>
> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <
> rchaskell at earthlink.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, <
> gradea1 at charter.net>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>
> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified
> the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little
> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls
> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The
> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those
> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or
> maybe tertiary?
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
> *To:* Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <
> boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>
> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float
> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows
> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>
> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most
> important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the
> air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner.
> Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do
> when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be
> piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the *fuel could not escape
> through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into
> the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize
> before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the
> mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>
> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the
> overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bill
> Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or
> intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trapped
> air? Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>
> Hank,
>
> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
> plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>
> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>
> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead
> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
> year?) to test that theory.
> --------------------
>
> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Hank,
>
> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from
> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>
> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float
> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and
> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
> settings.
>
> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
> not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where
> the problem is.
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor
> overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but
> must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center
> and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel
> to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>
> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and
> replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>
> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
> British Car.
> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb
> cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places
> checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be
> between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090.
> Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean
> that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top
> .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks
> up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in
> the rain.
>
> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass
> ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>
> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Dec 23 14:11:29 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 21:11:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
Message-ID: <9a1e40c6-b7b3-30b8-9e6a-e28b176e45fa@charter.net>

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Dec 23 17:58:08 2024
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:58:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <9a1e40c6-b7b3-30b8-9e6a-e28b176e45fa@charter.net>
References: <9a1e40c6-b7b3-30b8-9e6a-e28b176e45fa@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+YrAtQPVfMMF1goX3THRWG2nu7suG4oV6jauKXrd5_Stw@mail.gmail.com>

My BN1 #724, engine number 139756, has no float bowl drain tubes, just the
red notched washer and chrome vent at the top screw .  I have never had the
problems that you report.  The floats are original.  I cleaned and rebuilt
with a Moss kit.  If one of my carbs worked right and one did not, after
replacing all rebuild able parts, I would replace the malfunctioning carb.
If that fixes things you can explore the faulty carb at leisure.  If it
doesn't, then the rear carb wasn't the problem.
-Roland

On Mon, Dec 23, 2024, 1:19?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Michael-that is why I asked the question in the beginning, Where is the
> fuel coming from and what is the cure for the problem? I agree that the
> fuel is "atomized" in the throttle area and that would be the best
> condition to send it to the engine but this car is dumping fuel and I
> cannot find the mechanism to stop that flow. Suggested lighter nitrile
> floats are at the top of the list, if in fact my brass ones are bum. Bill
> Lawrence modified his intakes possibly due to fuel issues?  The system on
> this early car (same as yours) is a bit "cruder" than the revised float
> bowl vent system (with no manifold drain?). And, I cannot see anything
> wrong the float setting as presently set.
> The fuel is not coming out the jet with the key off and the float bowls
> full to proper level-it is as you said below the top of the jet. Float
> valves are closed.  Its when the key is on and fuel pressure is applied
> that I am getting the overflow condition. I was hoping that someone else on
> the team has had a similar experience. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: "Healey team" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 23, 2024 at 12:21 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
> In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carburettor,
> fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
> The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float
> chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is
> only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is
> positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the
> airflow and into the inlet manifold.
> This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
> <https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle>
> which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
> If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
> mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
>> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
>> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
>> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
>> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in
>> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss,
>> etc. only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid
>> float lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube
>> (air vent).
>>
>> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the
>> float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between
>> the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
>> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
>> petrol supply" to start the car.
>> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet into
>> the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now turning
>> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the
>> intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So the important
>> procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank the engine
>> immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.  I'm here
>> testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to
>> do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>>
>> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
>> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the
>> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like
>> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
>> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float
>> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>>
>>
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
>> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <
>> rchaskell at earthlink.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, <
>> gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified
>> the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little
>> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls
>> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The
>> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
>> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those
>> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or
>> maybe tertiary?
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
>> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
>> *To:* Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
>> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float
>> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
>> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
>> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows
>> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
>> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>>
>> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most
>> important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the
>> air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner.
>> Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do
>> when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be
>> piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the *fuel could not escape
>> through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into
>> the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize
>> before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the
>> mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
>> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>>
>> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the
>> overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bill
>> Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or
>> intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trapped
>> air? Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> Hank,
>>
>> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
>> plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>
>> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
>> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
>> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
>> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
>> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
>> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
>> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
>> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>>
>> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
>> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead
>> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
>> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
>> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
>> year?) to test that theory.
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>> Hank,
>>
>> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
>> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from
>> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>>
>> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
>> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
>> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
>> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float
>> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
>> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and
>> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
>> settings.
>>
>> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
>> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
>> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
>> not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where
>> the problem is.
>>
>> Richard Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>> carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple
>> design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
>> out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that
>> would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>>
>> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean
>> and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
>> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
>> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
>> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>>
>> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
>> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
>> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
>> British Car.
>> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with
>> carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two
>> places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak
>> could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet
>> .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are
>> lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at
>> top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing
>> stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done
>> outside in the rain.
>>
>> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple
>> brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
>> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
>> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
>> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
>> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
>> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
>> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
>> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
>> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
>> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>>
>> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
>> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
>> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
>> _______________________________________________
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Dec 24 10:02:20 2024
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 09:02:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?carb_damper?=
Message-ID: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>

ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?

From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 24 10:45:44 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 09:45:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+YrAtQPVfMMF1goX3THRWG2nu7suG4oV6jauKXrd5_Stw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9a1e40c6-b7b3-30b8-9e6a-e28b176e45fa@charter.net>
 <CADpDe+YrAtQPVfMMF1goX3THRWG2nu7suG4oV6jauKXrd5_Stw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EA80AF1C-E66A-424C-A898-412F64738CC8@gmail.com>

Hank,  Here is the Moss Motors description of the need for the over-flow drain pipes (in the 100M reference):

These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most important) they allow the fuel
coming into the float bowl to displace the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely
manner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do when a bit of grit i
trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the fuel
could not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into the engine. With
that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize
will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black smoke out the
tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die. The liquid fuel that reaches the cylinders will flush the oil
off the cylinder walls and wind up in the crankcase. If it happens frequently, the loss of the oil film on the
cylinder walls can cause premature wear. With gas in the sump, the oil is being diluted and the oil needs
to be drained and replaced as soon as practical. We have heard that under the right conditions, gasoline
vapors can be ignited in the crankcase with spectacular results, but we are still waiting for pictures.

Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com



> On Dec 23, 2024, at 4:58?PM, Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> My BN1 #724, engine number 139756, has no float bowl drain tubes, just the red notched washer and chrome vent at the top screw .  I have never had the problems that you report.  The floats are original.  I cleaned and rebuilt with a Moss kit.  If one of my carbs worked right and one did not, after replacing all rebuild able parts, I would replace the malfunctioning carb.  If that fixes things you can explore the faulty carb at leisure.  If it doesn't, then the rear carb wasn't the problem.
> -Roland 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024, 1:19?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> Michael-that is why I asked the question in the beginning, Where is the fuel coming from and what is the cure for the problem? I agree that the fuel is "atomized" in the throttle area and that would be the best condition to send it to the engine but this car is dumping fuel and I cannot find the mechanism to stop that flow. Suggested lighter nitrile floats are at the top of the list, if in fact my brass ones are bum. Bill Lawrence modified his intakes possibly due to fuel issues?  The system on this early car (same as yours) is a bit "cruder" than the revised float bowl vent system (with no manifold drain?). And, I cannot see anything wrong the float setting as presently set.
>> The fuel is not coming out the jet with the key off and the float bowls full to proper level-it is as you said below the top of the jet. Float valves are closed.  Its when the key is on and fuel pressure is applied that I am getting the overflow condition. I was hoping that someone else on the team has had a similar experience. Hank
>> -------------------- 
>> 
>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> 
>> To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> 
>> Cc: "Healey team" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> 
>> Sent: December 23, 2024 at 12:21 PM PST 
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube 
>> Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
>> In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carburettor, fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet. 
>> The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the airflow and into the inlet manifold. 
>> This is all related to Bernoulli's principle <https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle> which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
>> If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.
>>  
>> M
>>  
>> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100 engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN TUBES.  The later engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss, etc. only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid float lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube (air vent).
>>>  
>>> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat petrol supply" to start the car.
>>> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet into the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now turning and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So the important procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank the engine immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.  I'm here testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>>>  
>>> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>>>  
>>> 
>>> -------------------- 
>>> 
>>> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> 
>>> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>, "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>>, <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> 
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST 
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>  
>>> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or maybe tertiary?
>>>  
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 554
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>> Sent: Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
>>> To: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>>; richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>>
>>> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>  
>>> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location) Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>>>  
>>> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the fuel could not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into the engine. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>>>  
>>> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trapped air? Hank
>>> -------------------- 
>>> 
>>> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net <mailto:rchaskell at earthlink.net>> 
>>> To: <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>> 
>>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> 
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST 
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>> Hank,
>>> 
>>> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>>> 
>>> Cheers,
>>> 
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>>> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>>>  
>>> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next year?) to test that theory.
>>> -------------------- 
>>> 
>>> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>
>>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST 
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube 
>>> Hank,
>>>  
>>> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>>>  
>>> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different settings. 
>>>  
>>> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where the problem is. 
>>> 
>>> Richard Mayor
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube. 
>>>  
>>> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking. 
>>>  
>>> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.  I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a British Car. 
>>> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done outside in the rain.
>>>  
>>> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round? Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>>>  
>>> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
>>> _______________________________________________
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 24 10:56:44 2024
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 09:56:44 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <8E8532D7-318A-4A0F-8663-CD860600EB7A@gmail.com>

On occasion I have seen dampers  with plastic caps that have the steel rod protruding through the top of the cap.  This is caused when the engine has backfired through the carburetors and the piston and damper are driven upwards. This drives the damper rod through the plastic cap.  You will never see this with the dampers with brass caps. 

I suspect this is what started the issue with your damper before the previous owner made it even worse.
  
Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com



> On Dec 24, 2024, at 9:02?AM, healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Dec 24 13:45:33 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 12:45:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <8E8532D7-318A-4A0F-8663-CD860600EB7A@gmail.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <8E8532D7-318A-4A0F-8663-CD860600EB7A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwGa2Zpf0ngq0xBVYypbq0VqJoSWmeu6SgrDpQ7Ow1Vt_w@mail.gmail.com>

Jim: what he said...

The damper rod and piston might still be down there in the damper oil! If
not, someone likely had the backfire problem, the rod came out through the
plastic and they removed it.

I'm not familiar with the clearance between the engine and bonnet on that
car, but you might look at the underside of the bonnet for a mark that
would confirm the theory.

Either way, it looks like you need to get a damper for them.

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Tue, Dec 24, 2024, 10:22?AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> On occasion I have seen dampers  with plastic caps that have the steel rod
> protruding through the top of the cap.  This is caused when the engine has
> backfired through the carburetors and the piston and damper are driven
> upwards. This drives the damper rod through the plastic cap.  You will
> never see this with the dampers with brass caps.
>
> I suspect this is what started the issue with your damper before the
> previous owner made it even worse.
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Dec 24, 2024, at 9:02?AM, healeymanjim via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC
> and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole
> approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does
> the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Dec 24 14:36:09 2024
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 21:36:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
Message-ID: <0c271d2d-b4d7-8521-a8fa-62c5a37f240b@charter.net>

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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Tue Dec 24 16:16:23 2024
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 23:16:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <0c271d2d-b4d7-8521-a8fa-62c5a37f240b@charter.net>
References: <0c271d2d-b4d7-8521-a8fa-62c5a37f240b@charter.net>
Message-ID: <881123340.6844485.1735082183165@mail.yahoo.com>

I would also trade in those mastic caps for brass, available from Joe Curto and others.?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Tuesday, December 24, 2024, 4:50 PM, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Yes, also when too heavy of an oil is added to the chamber and then shoving in the dampener; it can come right thru? the plastic cap...use SU or 10W lightweight oil not engine oil or anything else for that matter. Missing dampener solved! Hank
-------------------- 

From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> 
To: "healeymanjim" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> 
Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: December 24, 2024 at 10:30 AM PST 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb damper 
On occasion I have seen dampers ?with plastic caps that have the steel rod protruding through the top of the cap. ?This is caused when the engine has backfired through the carburetors and the piston and damper are driven upwards. This drives the damper rod through the plastic cap. ?You will never see this with the dampers with brass caps.??I suspect this is what started the issue with your damper before the previous owner made it even worse.??
Richard Mayorboyracer466 at gmail.com?

On Dec 24, 2024, at 9:02?AM, healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:ran into something have not seen before. ?cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper. ?there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod. ?Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual. ?any ideas what i have here?
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Dec 24 23:41:37 2024
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 22:41:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?carb_damper?=
Message-ID: <20241225064137.7382.qmail@server278.com>

i am sorry i did not explain myself better.  these carbs have no tube to put a damper into.  the piston rod is solid metal with a small hole drilled in the top.  there is no rod attached to the cap and the cap has not suffered damage.   think it is an older style piston that has been stuck in the carbs.  still confused.

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Dec 25 06:29:51 2024
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2024 08:29:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <20241225064137.7382.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20241225064137.7382.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <d48a8234-2fd4-4c9c-8ad5-bb1715034f4f@earthlink.net>

No specification tags on the carbs? Burlen/SU Carb's website gives AUC 
429T (H2) for the TB and TC, with damper.

Mike Harvey's book, "Skinner Union" states that the hydraulic damper was 
introduced in 1938.? The dashpot suction pistons prior to that had solid 
guide rod.? They were made of zinc alloy Mazak from 19218 to 1939 and 
brass from 1925 to 1948.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 12/25/24 01:41, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
> i am sorry i did not explain myself better.  these carbs have no tube to put a damper into.  the piston rod is solid metal with a small hole drilled in the top.  there is no rod attached to the cap and the cap has not suffered damage.   think it is an older style piston that has been stuck in the carbs.  still confused.
> _______________________________________________
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 25 08:01:50 2024
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2024 07:01:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <d48a8234-2fd4-4c9c-8ad5-bb1715034f4f@earthlink.net>
References: <20241225064137.7382.qmail@server278.com>
 <d48a8234-2fd4-4c9c-8ad5-bb1715034f4f@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <E2484E45-4487-48AE-A833-77A39A5D0D48@sbcglobal.net>

These carb pistons are also heavy y brass and there is no spring. Not sure which cars actually used them, but I have seen them on early MGs.  The brass cap without the piston is correct and the hole is to allow air to move in and out as the piston moves.

David Nock
British Car Specialists


> On Dec 25, 2024, at 5:29?AM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> No specification tags on the carbs? Burlen/SU Carb's website gives AUC 429T (H2) for the TB and TC, with damper.
> 
> Mike Harvey's book, "Skinner Union" states that the hydraulic damper was introduced in 1938.  The dashpot suction pistons prior to that had solid guide rod.  They were made of zinc alloy Mazak from 19218 to 1939 and brass from 1925 to 1948.
> 
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
> 
> On 12/25/24 01:41, healeymanjim via Healeys wrote:
>> i am sorry i did not explain myself better.  these carbs have no tube to put a damper into.  the piston rod is solid metal with a small hole drilled in the top.  there is no rod attached to the cap and the cap has not suffered damage.   think it is an older style piston that has been stuck in the carbs.  still confused.
>> _______________________________________________
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 25 10:21:51 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2024 09:21:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <20241225063732.64423.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <8E8532D7-318A-4A0F-8663-CD860600EB7A@gmail.com>
 <CADkpZwGa2Zpf0ngq0xBVYypbq0VqJoSWmeu6SgrDpQ7Ow1Vt_w@mail.gmail.com>
 <20241225063732.64423.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwE=230=V8uZM2O-bQNdA-Xii7uSner+7d018ox2AWG6xQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, apparently the early cars didn't have dampers. They used a heavier
piston instead. Maybe this car is one of those. More info at The MG
Experience...

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Tue, Dec 24, 2024, 10:37?PM healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
wrote:

> there is no rod...   the damper is solid metal.  there is no tube to put a
> damper like on a healey in there.  still confused.
>
> >  -------Original Message-------
> >  From: Al Fuller <alfuller194 at gmail.com>
> >  To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> >  Cc: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>, healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> >  Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb damper
> >  Sent: Dec 24 '24 12:45
> >
> >  Jim: what he said...
> >
> >  The damper rod and piston might still be down there in the damper oil!
> >  If not, someone likely had the backfire problem, the rod came out
> >  through the plastic and they removed it.
> >
> >  I'm not familiar with the clearance between the engine and bonnet on
> >  that car, but you might look at the underside of the bonnet for a mark
> >  that would confirm the theory.
> >
> >  Either way, it looks like you need to get a damper for them.
> >
> >  ________________
> >  Sent from my phone
> >  Best Regards,
> >  Al Fuller
> >
> >  On Tue, Dec 24, 2024, 10:22?AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> >  wrote:
> >
> >  > On occasion I have seen dampers with plastic caps that have the
> >  > steel rod protruding through the top of the cap. This is caused
> >  > when the engine has backfired through the carburetors and the piston
> >  > and damper are driven upwards. This drives the damper rod through
> >  > the plastic cap. You will never see this with the dampers with
> >  > brass caps.
> >  >
> >  > I suspect this is what started the issue with your damper before the
> >  > previous owner made it even worse.
> >  >
> >  > Richard Mayor
> >  > boyracer466 at gmail.com
> >  >
> >  >> On Dec 24, 2024, at 9:02?AM, healeymanjim via Healeys
> >  >> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >  >>
> >  >> ran into something have not seen before. cleaning the carbs on an
> >  >> MGTC and discovered there is no damper. there is a plastic cap
> >  >> and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod. Moss
> >  >> shows a damper and so does the workshop manual. any ideas what i
> >  >> have here?
> >  >> _______________________________________________
> >  >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Dec 25 10:34:12 2024
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2024 17:34:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <20241225064137.7382.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20241225064137.7382.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <1824890972.5859317.1735148052799@mail.yahoo.com>

 Is it possible that this was a racing modification purported to improve acceleration?Gary Hodson
    On Wednesday, December 25, 2024 at 01:08:52 AM CST, healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   

 i am sorry i did not explain myself better.? these carbs have no tube to put a damper into.? the piston rod is solid metal with a small hole drilled in the top.? there is no rod attached to the cap and the cap has not suffered damage.? think it is an older style piston that has been stuck in the carbs.? still confused.
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From craiginchico at gmail.com  Thu Dec 26 18:50:49 2024
From: craiginchico at gmail.com (Craig Cooper)
Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2024 17:50:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 216
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1735066801.1525.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.0.1735066801.1525.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CABWqUykKqC210XsDcrAPY0Uc_-2u6CrPdG_fEqqcsOVx7rXQ-Q@mail.gmail.com>

 Re: overflowing fuel into intake drain tube

I wonder if fuel could be entering the float bowl from beneath the seat
body where it screws into the float lid.  If you don't have a good seal
there, fuel can continue to enter the float bowl as long as the fuel system
is pressurized.  My SU supplier sells a small washer that goes under the
seat and, although I've seen lots of seats installed without washers, they
cleaned up wet/overly rich running in a pair of carbs I worked on
recently.  If it's just the rear carburetor that has the issue, I'd be
tempted to switch float lids and see if the problem moves to the front.

On Tue, Dec 24, 2024 at 10:59?AM <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: overflowing fuel into intake drain tube (Michael Salter)
>    2. Re: overflowing fuel into intake drain tube (Hank Leach)
>    3. Re: overflowing fuel into intake drain tube (Roland Wilhelmy)
>    4. carb damper (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
>    5. Re: overflowing fuel into intake drain tube (richard mayor)
>    6. Re: carb damper (richard mayor)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: Healey team <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 15:21:41 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
> In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carburettor,
> fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
> The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float
> chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is
> only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is
> positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the
> airflow and into the inlet manifold.
> This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
> <https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle>
> which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
> If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
> mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
>> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
>> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
>> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
>> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in
>> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss,
>> etc. only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid
>> float lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube
>> (air vent).
>>
>> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the
>> float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between
>> the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
>> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
>> petrol supply" to start the car.
>> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet into
>> the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now turning
>> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the
>> intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So the important
>> procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank the engine
>> immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.  I'm here
>> testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to
>> do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>>
>> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
>> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the
>> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like
>> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
>> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float
>> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>>
>>
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
>> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <
>> rchaskell at earthlink.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, <
>> gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified
>> the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little
>> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls
>> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The
>> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
>> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those
>> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or
>> maybe tertiary?
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
>> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
>> *To:* Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
>> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float
>> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
>> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
>> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows
>> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
>> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>>
>> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most
>> important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the
>> air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner.
>> Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do
>> when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be
>> piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the *fuel could not escape
>> through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into
>> the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize
>> before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the
>> mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
>> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>>
>> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the
>> overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bill
>> Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or
>> intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trapped
>> air? Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> Hank,
>>
>> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
>> plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>
>> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
>> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
>> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
>> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
>> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
>> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
>> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
>> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>>
>> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
>> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead
>> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
>> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
>> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
>> year?) to test that theory.
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>> Hank,
>>
>> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
>> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from
>> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>>
>> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
>> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
>> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
>> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float
>> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
>> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and
>> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
>> settings.
>>
>> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
>> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
>> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
>> not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where
>> the problem is.
>>
>> Richard Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>> carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple
>> design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
>> out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that
>> would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>>
>> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean
>> and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
>> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
>> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
>> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>>
>> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
>> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
>> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
>> British Car.
>> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with
>> carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two
>> places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak
>> could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet
>> .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are
>> lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at
>> top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing
>> stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done
>> outside in the rain.
>>
>> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple
>> brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
>> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
>> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
>> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
>> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
>> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
>> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
>> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
>> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
>> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>>
>> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
>> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
>> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: Healey team <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 21:11:29 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Michael-that is why I asked the question in the beginning, Where is the
> fuel coming from and what is the cure for the problem? I agree that the
> fuel is "atomized" in the throttle area and that would be the best
> condition to send it to the engine but this car is dumping fuel and I
> cannot find the mechanism to stop that flow. Suggested lighter nitrile
> floats are at the top of the list, if in fact my brass ones are bum. Bill
> Lawrence modified his intakes possibly due to fuel issues?  The system on
> this early car (same as yours) is a bit "cruder" than the revised float
> bowl vent system (with no manifold drain?). And, I cannot see anything
> wrong the float setting as presently set.
> The fuel is not coming out the jet with the key off and the float bowls
> full to proper level-it is as you said below the top of the jet. Float
> valves are closed.  Its when the key is on and fuel pressure is applied
> that I am getting the overflow condition. I was hoping that someone else on
> the team has had a similar experience. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: "Healey team" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: December 23, 2024 at 12:21 PM PST
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
> In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of carburettor,
> fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
> The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float
> chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is
> only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is
> positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the
> airflow and into the inlet manifold.
> This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
> <https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle>
> which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
> If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
> mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
>> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
>> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
>> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
>> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in
>> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss,
>> etc. only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid
>> float lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube
>> (air vent).
>>
>> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the
>> float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between
>> the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
>> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
>> petrol supply" to start the car.
>> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet into
>> the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now turning
>> and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run haplessly in the
>> intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So the important
>> procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank the engine
>> immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.  I'm here
>> testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not going to
>> do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>>
>> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
>> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the
>> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like
>> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
>> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float
>> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>>
>>
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
>> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <
>> rchaskell at earthlink.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, <
>> gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified
>> the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little
>> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls
>> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The
>> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
>> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those
>> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or
>> maybe tertiary?
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
>> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
>> *To:* Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
>> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float
>> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
>> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
>> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows
>> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
>> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>>
>> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most
>> important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace the
>> air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely manner.
>> Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as they do
>> when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be
>> piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the *fuel could not escape
>> through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat into
>> the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize
>> before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make the
>> mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
>> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>>
>> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls; the
>> overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how Bill
>> Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows or
>> intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima? Trapped
>> air? Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>
>> Hank,
>>
>> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
>> plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>
>> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
>> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
>> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
>> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
>> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
>> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
>> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
>> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>>
>> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
>> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead
>> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
>> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
>> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
>> year?) to test that theory.
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>> Hank,
>>
>> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
>> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from
>> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>>
>> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
>> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
>> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
>> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float
>> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
>> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and
>> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
>> settings.
>>
>> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
>> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
>> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
>> not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where
>> the problem is.
>>
>> Richard Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>> carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple
>> design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
>> out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that
>> would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>>
>> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean
>> and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
>> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
>> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
>> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>>
>> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
>> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
>> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
>> British Car.
>> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with
>> carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two
>> places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak
>> could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet
>> .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are
>> lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at
>> top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing
>> stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done
>> outside in the rain.
>>
>> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple
>> brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
>> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
>> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
>> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
>> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
>> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
>> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
>> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
>> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
>> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>>
>> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
>> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
>> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
> To: gradea1 at charter.net
> Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, Healey team <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2024 16:58:08 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>
> My BN1 #724, engine number 139756, has no float bowl drain tubes, just the
> red notched washer and chrome vent at the top screw .  I have never had the
> problems that you report.  The floats are original.  I cleaned and rebuilt
> with a Moss kit.  If one of my carbs worked right and one did not, after
> replacing all rebuild able parts, I would replace the malfunctioning carb.
> If that fixes things you can explore the faulty carb at leisure.  If it
> doesn't, then the rear carb wasn't the problem.
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024, 1:19?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Michael-that is why I asked the question in the beginning, Where is the
>> fuel coming from and what is the cure for the problem? I agree that the
>> fuel is "atomized" in the throttle area and that would be the best
>> condition to send it to the engine but this car is dumping fuel and I
>> cannot find the mechanism to stop that flow. Suggested lighter nitrile
>> floats are at the top of the list, if in fact my brass ones are bum. Bill
>> Lawrence modified his intakes possibly due to fuel issues?  The system on
>> this early car (same as yours) is a bit "cruder" than the revised float
>> bowl vent system (with no manifold drain?). And, I cannot see anything
>> wrong the float setting as presently set.
>> The fuel is not coming out the jet with the key off and the float bowls
>> full to proper level-it is as you said below the top of the jet. Float
>> valves are closed.  Its when the key is on and fuel pressure is applied
>> that I am getting the overflow condition. I was hoping that someone else on
>> the team has had a similar experience. Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Cc: "Healey team" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 23, 2024 at 12:21 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>> Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
>> In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of
>> carburettor, fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
>> The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float
>> chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is
>> only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is
>> positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the
>> airflow and into the inlet manifold.
>> This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
>> <https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle>
>> which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
>> If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
>> mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
>>> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
>>> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
>>> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
>>> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in
>>> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss,
>>> etc. only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid
>>> float lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube
>>> (air vent).
>>>
>>> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the
>>> float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between
>>> the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
>>> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
>>> petrol supply" to start the car.
>>> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet
>>> into the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now
>>> turning and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run
>>> haplessly in the intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So
>>> the important procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank
>>> the engine immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.
>>> I'm here testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not
>>> going to do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>>>
>>> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
>>> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the
>>> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like
>>> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
>>> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float
>>> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>>>
>>>
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
>>> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <
>>> rchaskell at earthlink.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, <
>>> gradea1 at charter.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>
>>> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified
>>> the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little
>>> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls
>>> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The
>>> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
>>> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those
>>> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or
>>> maybe tertiary?
>>>
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 554
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank
>>> Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
>>> *To:* Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>
>>> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
>>> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float
>>> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
>>> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
>>> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows
>>> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
>>> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>>>
>>> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and
>>> most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace
>>> the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely
>>> manner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as
>>> they do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will
>>> be piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the *fuel could not
>>> escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat
>>> into the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will
>>> vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make
>>> the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
>>> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>>>
>>> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls;
>>> the overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how
>>> Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows
>>> or intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima?
>>> Trapped air? Hank
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>>> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>
>>> Hank,
>>>
>>> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
>>> plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>>
>>> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
>>> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
>>> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
>>> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
>>> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
>>> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
>>> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
>>> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>>>
>>> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
>>> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead
>>> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
>>> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
>>> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
>>> year?) to test that theory.
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <gradea1 at charter.net>
>>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>> Hank,
>>>
>>> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
>>> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from
>>> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>>>
>>> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
>>> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
>>> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
>>> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float
>>> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
>>> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and
>>> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
>>> settings.
>>>
>>> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
>>> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
>>> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
>>> not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where
>>> the problem is.
>>>
>>> Richard Mayor
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>>> carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple
>>> design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
>>> out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that
>>> would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>>>
>>> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean
>>> and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
>>> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
>>> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
>>> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>>>
>>> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
>>> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
>>> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
>>> British Car.
>>> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with
>>> carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two
>>> places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak
>>> could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet
>>> .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are
>>> lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at
>>> top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing
>>> stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done
>>> outside in the rain.
>>>
>>> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple
>>> brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
>>> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
>>> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
>>> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
>>> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
>>> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
>>> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
>>> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
>>> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
>>> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>>>
>>> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
>>> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
>>> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 09:02:20 -0800
> Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC
> and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole
> approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does
> the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> To: Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
> Cc: Leach Hank <gradea1 at charter.net>, healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 09:45:44 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
> Hank,  Here is the Moss Motors description of the need for the over-flow
> drain pipes (in the 100M reference):
>
> These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and most
> important) they allow the fuel
> coming into the float bowl to displace the air in there so the fuel can
> reach its correct level in a timely
> manner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as
> they do when a bit of grit i
> trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will be piped out and down ? away
> from the engine. If the fuel
> could not escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the
> carburetor throat into the engine. With
> that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will vaporize before the spark
> plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize
> will make the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will
> belch black smoke out the
> tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die. The liquid fuel that
> reaches the cylinders will flush the oil
> off the cylinder walls and wind up in the crankcase. If it happens
> frequently, the loss of the oil film on the
> cylinder walls can cause premature wear. With gas in the sump, the oil is
> being diluted and the oil needs
> to be drained and replaced as soon as practical. We have heard that under
> the right conditions, gasoline
> vapors can be ignited in the crankcase with spectacular results, but we
> are still waiting for pictures.
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Dec 23, 2024, at 4:58?PM, Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> My BN1 #724, engine number 139756, has no float bowl drain tubes, just the
> red notched washer and chrome vent at the top screw .  I have never had the
> problems that you report.  The floats are original.  I cleaned and rebuilt
> with a Moss kit.  If one of my carbs worked right and one did not, after
> replacing all rebuild able parts, I would replace the malfunctioning carb.
> If that fixes things you can explore the faulty carb at leisure.  If it
> doesn't, then the rear carb wasn't the problem.
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024, 1:19?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Michael-that is why I asked the question in the beginning, Where is the
>> fuel coming from and what is the cure for the problem? I agree that the
>> fuel is "atomized" in the throttle area and that would be the best
>> condition to send it to the engine but this car is dumping fuel and I
>> cannot find the mechanism to stop that flow. Suggested lighter nitrile
>> floats are at the top of the list, if in fact my brass ones are bum. Bill
>> Lawrence modified his intakes possibly due to fuel issues?  The system on
>> this early car (same as yours) is a bit "cruder" than the revised float
>> bowl vent system (with no manifold drain?). And, I cannot see anything
>> wrong the float setting as presently set.
>> The fuel is not coming out the jet with the key off and the float bowls
>> full to proper level-it is as you said below the top of the jet. Float
>> valves are closed.  Its when the key is on and fuel pressure is applied
>> that I am getting the overflow condition. I was hoping that someone else on
>> the team has had a similar experience. Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net>
>> Cc: "Healey team" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: December 23, 2024 at 12:21 PM PST
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>> Sorry Hank but I think you have that wrong.
>> In and SU carb,and for that matter almost every other type of
>> carburettor, fuel DOES NOT pump out through the jet.
>> The fuel level, as mentioned previously, is controlled by the float
>> chamber float valve to never actually be above the top of the jet. It is
>> only the flow of air across the carburettor "bridge", where the jet is
>> positioned, that draws fuel up through the jet to be atomized into the
>> airflow and into the inlet manifold.
>> This is all related to Bernoulli's principle
>> <https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=Bernoulli%27s+principle>
>>  which is the basis upon which all carburettors work.
>> If fuel is coming out of the jet when the engine is not running then the
>> mechanism controlling the float level is not operating correctly.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Dec 23, 2024 at 1:37?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Ah! A rebel in the crowd. I looked at a bunch of photos of 1953 100
>>> engines on the web.  Many are configured as mine with NO FLOAT BOWL DRAIN
>>> TUBES.  The *later *engine setups have drain tubes in the lid. This
>>> includes the cars using H6 carbs (Lemans).  Also, on these early designs
>>> there is a different carb adaptor. Part 1B1672  which has a lower drain in
>>> the casing up to engine # 139915 (my engine 139563). Of course Moss,
>>> etc. only sell the later style products. but some books show the solid
>>> float lids and some show vented lids and some show a lid with a drain tube
>>> (air vent).
>>>
>>> So, in theory the way the early system works; fuel is inlet from the
>>> float chamber and enters the jet thru a hole in the tube positioned between
>>> the two gland washers which are to keep the fuel intact. when the choke is
>>> pulled that jet hole  is lowered to send in, as the British say..."a neat
>>> petrol supply" to start the car.
>>> Now, if you turn on the key, fuel pumps in and is moved thru the jet
>>> into the throttle area and into the manifold. Unless the engine is now
>>> turning and suction from the piston is active, the fuel will run
>>> haplessly in the intake manifold and out the drain tube to the ground. So
>>> the important procedure in these early systems is turn the key and crank
>>> the engine immediately or it will overflow fuel down the drain tube.
>>> I'm here testing the operation of the carburetors in a static mode-its not
>>> going to do anything but spew fuel to the ground. Right?
>>>
>>> The later design using a float bowl vent tube also send fuel into the
>>> manifold but without a drain tube the fuel will go into the engine, as the
>>> Moss PDF described, diluting the oil and washing the cylinders. Sounds like
>>> the best method of starting up is to crank the engine as soon as you hear
>>> the fuel pump click...I typically have waited until the pump stopped (float
>>> bowls full) before cranking. Live and learn?Hank
>>>
>>>
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com>
>>> To: "Hank Leach via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Bob Haskell" <
>>> rchaskell at earthlink.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>, <
>>> gradea1 at charter.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 9:29 PM PST
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>
>>> I?d like to be able to answer that, but I have to confess I?ve modified
>>> the induction system on mine (I know, I?m going to Hell) and I?m a little
>>> fuzzy on the details. If memory serves (a doubtful premise) the float bowls
>>> originally had an open vent arrangement on the top with no drain tubes. The
>>> car was built up from several dozen boxes of parts, so that may not have
>>> been correct. About 20 years ago I built a pair of H6s and installed those
>>> with drain tubes. The car is a bitsa anyway so originality is secondary, or
>>> maybe tertiary?
>>>
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 554
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank
>>> Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Monday, December 23, 2024 1:59 AM
>>> *To:* Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>; richard mayor <
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> *Cc:* healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>
>>> Thanks Bob-yes the Moss site confirms they have alternate nitrile floats
>>> and about $20 each. Looking at the diagram there is a drawing of the float
>>> chamber overflow AUC1866 (451-250) $24.99 each.  I do not have these
>>> overflows on my float bowls (as Richard Mayor mentioned their location)
>>> Instead the early cars have silver vent caps and a red washer which allows
>>> air out and those two intake manifold copper drain pipes at the bottom of
>>> the carb intakes. There is a PDF note on that part which reads:
>>>
>>> "These pipes are open to the atmosphere, for two reasons: first (and
>>> most important) they allow the fuel coming into the float bowl to displace
>>> the air in there so the fuel can reach its correct level in a timely
>>> manner. Second, if the float valve (needle-and-seat) should stick open (as
>>> they do when a bit of grit is trapped on the mating surfaces) the fuel will
>>> be piped out and down ? away from the engine. If the *fuel could not
>>> escape through the overflow pipe, it would pour down the carburetor throat
>>> into the engine*. With that much liquid gasoline, not all of it will
>>> vaporize before the spark plug fires. The fuel that does vaporize will make
>>> the mixture so rich (as if the choke were engaged) the car will belch black
>>> smoke out the tailpipe. The engine will eventually flood and die."
>>>
>>> The point here is that not having those overflows on the float bowls;
>>> the overflow is actually after the throttle plates on my car. I wonder how
>>> Bill Lawrence's early car is configured and if he has float bowl overflows
>>> or intake overflows? Is it possible that this is a clue to my delima?
>>> Trapped air? Hank
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "Bob Haskell" <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>>> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>, "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 4:28 PM PST
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>>
>>> Hank,
>>>
>>> I think the newest floats are made from nitrile rubber - nitrophyl, not
>>> plastic.  Supposedly unsinkable.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>>
>>> On 12/22/24 17:49, Hank Leach via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> I actually cannot figure where all the fuel is coming from. In static
>>> mode-key off and float bowls at proper level-with dashpot and piston
>>> removed, no fuel is apparent (as Michael says about 1/8" below jet or as
>>> you say equal to float setting). However, with key on and carbs together
>>> it's a different story-fuel is flowing steadily. The suggestion that was
>>> made that we really need to have clear plastic float bowls has merit. I
>>> cannot tell if the brass float is pushing hard enough to shut off the peg
>>> on the valve. When held shut by hand its positive.
>>>
>>> If the float is "heavy", then it will not effect enough pressure on the
>>> peg to stop the flow. This is why someone suggested plastic floats instead
>>> of brass. Fuel is the shut off mechanism. I have swapped float and needle
>>> valves from front to rear carb in hopes that the front one will now start
>>> leaking. That may be a clue to the issue. Waiting for a dry day (next
>>> year?) to test that theory.
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com> <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
>>> To: "Leach Hank" <gradea1 at charter.net> <gradea1 at charter.net>
>>> Cc: "healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: December 22, 2024 at 2:23 PM PST
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] overflowing fuel into intake drain tube
>>> Hank,
>>>
>>> If I read your post correctly, the fuel is coming out of the jet in the
>>> carburetor into the intake manifold and then out the drain tube.  Not from
>>> the overflow tube on the float chamber. I?ll proceed with this assumption.
>>>
>>> The level of fuel at the jet is the same level as that in the float
>>> chamber. That is the way these SU carbs are designed. That is why float
>>> level is so important.  If fuel is flowing out of  the jet before the
>>> needle valve shuts off the fuel supply at the float chamber then your float
>>> level is set too high.  You need to close the float needle valve with the
>>> float at a lower level. Instead of using 7/16th as a guide, try 1/2? and
>>> see if that stops the flow.  But then you said you tried different
>>> settings.
>>>
>>> Is there an obstruction that is preventing the float from rising all the
>>> way to the top to close the needle valve?  Try a different float. Polish
>>> the post.  Is there any wear in the fork or pivot in the casting that is
>>> not allowing the needle to move feely into it?s seat.  I think that?s where
>>> the problem is.
>>>
>>> Richard Mayor
>>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>> On Dec 22, 2024, at 12:28?PM, Hank Leach via Healeys
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>  I have chased the cause of too much fuel exiting from the rear
>>> carburetor overflow of my 100 for years. These are H4 carbs-very simple
>>> design, but must be done correctly to perform. So I find that the jet is
>>> out of center and piston is sticking up above the flat about 1/8"-that
>>> would allow fuel to run into throttle area and out overflow drain tube.
>>>
>>> No way to center jet on car. Remove carburetor-a 4 hour job- and clean
>>> and replace gaskets and gland washers-yes cork- and reassemble and center
>>> jet...now works perfect. Re mount carburetor and connect fuel lines-another
>>> 4 hour job.  Both carb pistons drop with a clunk at the same time.  Turn on
>>> key- fuel pump clicking-overflow again leaking.
>>>
>>> I have reset the floats and float needles (brass) were replaced many
>>> times-that's not the issue. No fuel in float bodies-they are not leaking.
>>> I just cant believe its too much fuel pressure but then again, this is a
>>> British Car.
>>> Float is brass but when shaked it is dry. I filled the float lid with
>>> carb cleaner while holding needle valve closed and no leaking. That's two
>>> places checked (these are unfortunately "new" parts) Now the next leak
>>> could be between the needle and jet if not closed off-also new parts-jet
>>> .090. Needles are QW as specified but i also have a set of ATs which are
>>> lean that I am tempted to try. Actually both needles are about the same at
>>> top .089, but ATs are a bit fatter at mid range. Problem is all testing
>>> stinks up the garage and creates an explosive atmosphere so best done
>>> outside in the rain.
>>>
>>> I know some folks like Grosse Jets-but I don't-- I prefer the simple
>>> brass ones with viton tips which do work if pressure is applied by forked
>>> leg-also new, and set to 7/16" or MORE. With covers off, both bowls are
>>> equally about 1/2 filled. Fuel pressure is a thought as it can push by the
>>> stops but its the correct pump and when key on clicks fast then slows to a
>>> stop... but then tick, tick which it should not do!  Fuel is going out and
>>> down the drain tube to my swimming pool drip pan. Im tempted to measure the
>>> top of the needles to see if they are really at .089. Can't measure the new
>>> jet but its stamped "9" Maybe stick in a number drill to see if its round?
>>> Mind you, these carbs have about 125 miles total on them. As far as I know
>>> these are "genuine SU" parts-not Moss India knockoffs.
>>>
>>> I really thought that the centering was the issue and took the carb off
>>> for that reason which cured the drop-each drops equally with thud. That's
>>> not the problem. Any suggestions? Someone says use plastic floats...Hank
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> To: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2024 09:56:44 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb damper
> On occasion I have seen dampers  with plastic caps that have the steel rod
> protruding through the top of the cap.  This is caused when the engine has
> backfired through the carburetors and the piston and damper are driven
> upwards. This drives the damper rod through the plastic cap.  You will
> never see this with the dampers with brass caps.
>
> I suspect this is what started the issue with your damper before the
> previous owner made it even worse.
>
> Richard Mayor
> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
>
> On Dec 24, 2024, at 9:02?AM, healeymanjim via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC
> and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole
> approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does
> the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Dec 26 19:31:46 2024
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2024 10:31:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>

Yep, as others have suggested, the damper has blown through the cap.  I'm
sure your TC hiccups if you press the gas too hard.

The TC would have a damper with a brass cap, best to get one of those.

On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 1:15?AM healeymanjim via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC
> and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole
> approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does
> the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Fri Dec 27 06:42:13 2024
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2024 13:42:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>

I would put brass caps on all SUs even if they didn?t come with them. They look great and should last forever!


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, December 26, 2024, 9:46 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Yep, as others have suggested, the damper has blown through the cap.? I'm sure your TC hiccups if you press the gas too hard.

The TC would have a damper with a brass cap, best to get one of those.
On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 1:15?AM healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

ran into something have not seen before.? cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.? there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.? Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.? any ideas what i have here?
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Dec 27 09:35:52 2024
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2024 16:35:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <285450770.6258807.1735317352034@mail.yahoo.com>

 Make sure you have the correct damper cap (vented or unvented) for your application.Gary Hodson - see below, from an MG website:
Some SUs have a hole in the damper cap, some have a vent in the web at the top of the dome. See the picture. You have to take the damper out to see the hole.

Anyway, you only want one hole per carb, either in the cap or the dome. If needed you can plug the damper cap.

Attachments:carb1.jpg ?? 10.7 KB

    On Friday, December 27, 2024 at 08:08:00 AM CST, Robert Markovich via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   

 I would put brass caps on all SUs even if they didn?t come with them. They look great and should last forever!


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, December 26, 2024, 9:46 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Yep, as others have suggested, the damper has blown through the cap.? I'm sure your TC hiccups if you press the gas too hard.

The TC would have a damper with a brass cap, best to get one of those.
On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 1:15?AM healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

ran into something have not seen before.? cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.? there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.? Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.? any ideas what i have here?
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Dec 27 10:23:07 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2024 12:23:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <285450770.6258807.1735317352034@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>
 <285450770.6258807.1735317352034@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ2F3e=Pa5Wi1hsNwNrUYn_hmR3NV8Rs5wZcQvRDyQ2MQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have a vague recollection that early MGs like TA and TB actually had
neither a damper of spring in the suction chamber.  They used a "heavy"
piston.

M

On Fri., Dec. 27, 2024, 11:44 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Make sure you have the correct damper cap (vented or unvented) for your
> application.
> Gary Hodson - see below, from an MG website:
>
> Some SUs have a hole in the damper cap, some have a vent in the web at the
> top of the dome. See the picture. You have to take the damper out to see
> the hole.
>
> Anyway, you only want one hole per carb, either in the cap or the dome. If
> needed you can plug the damper cap.
>
> Attachments:
> *carb1.jpg    10.7 KB*
> [image: carb1.jpg] <https://www.mgexp.com/phile/1/495016/carb1.jpg>
>
>
> On Friday, December 27, 2024 at 08:08:00 AM CST, Robert Markovich via
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I would put brass caps on all SUs even if they didn?t come with them. They
> look great and should last forever!
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
>
> On Thursday, December 26, 2024, 9:46 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Yep, as others have suggested, the damper has blown through the cap.  I'm
> sure your TC hiccups if you press the gas too hard.
>
> The TC would have a damper with a brass cap, best to get one of those.
>
> On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 1:15?AM healeymanjim via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC
> and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole
> approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does
> the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From rct2bnc at aol.com  Fri Dec 27 13:54:37 2024
From: rct2bnc at aol.com (rct2bnc at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2024 20:54:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <1807839410.3280709.1735332877456@mail.yahoo.com>

 I have also run into this problem, but not with any of my Austin Healeys. I have a tri-carb set up on an 1959 AC Ace. When I opened the carbs to check and add oil, there was only a brass cap with no damper mechanism. Also after removing the chamber I found no spring and a solid piston rod with no place to put the oil. Luckily, I have a 2003 SU reference manual for most British cars using SU carbs. Each make is broken down by year, type of carb, needles etc. but includes all miscellaneous parts like damper, jet, float, service kit #s, and more. It listed at 1.9 litre Weller six-cylinder engine from 1933- 1952 - all the triple carb set ups. Under damper it states: CAP; for piston spring there is no entry. Without going through the whole manual, you can see that many, many pre-1952 cars, such as: Alvis, Aston-Martin, Armstorng-Siddeley, Bentley-Rolls Royce, Frazer-Nash have CAP and no springs. However, under the listings for all Austin Healey cars (including Sprites) from 1952 - 1974, all carbs on those cars show dampers and springs, without exception. This includes 1954-56 100 M Le Mans and 1955-56 100 S 4 cyl cars.?
As for the CAP unit, the manual shows 7 variants, from plain brass hexagon, some knurled brass round and some with stamps for OIL RESERVOIR or THIN OIL. They also list 5 different dampers with both brass and plastic caps.?
I can scan the Austin Healey section and attach for the group, if there is interest.
Ben Cohen
BN1BN7BJ8


    On Tuesday, December 24, 2024 at 10:17:52 AM MST, healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   

 ran into something have not seen before.? cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.? there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.? Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.? any ideas what i have here?
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From dtwoerpel at gmail.com  Fri Dec 27 21:56:37 2024
From: dtwoerpel at gmail.com (David Woerpel)
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2024 22:56:37 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <1807839410.3280709.1735332877456@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <1807839410.3280709.1735332877456@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADtDyyA29PR1FmPKbYPNNiZ=zmBbwRrUQ_YQ326KsxaDFoJUwA@mail.gmail.com>

Must jump in here. Just to muddy the waters a bit, although not relevant to
Big Healeys, the SU H1 carburettor on Morris Minor and Sprite MkI (Frogeye)
do not have piston damper springs. Springs with a red paint splash started
on the MkIIs and Midget MkI.
Carry on, I'm learning a lot!

Dave W
'59 :()
'59 MGA 1500
"Pay It Forward"

On Fri, Dec 27, 2024, 3:16?PM rct2bnc--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I have also run into this problem, but not with any of my Austin Healeys.
> I have a tri-carb set up on an 1959 AC Ace. When I opened the carbs to
> check and add oil, there was only a brass cap with no damper mechanism.
> Also after removing the chamber I found no spring and a solid piston rod
> with no place to put the oil. Luckily, I have a 2003 SU reference manual
> for most British cars using SU carbs. Each make is broken down by year,
> type of carb, needles etc. but includes all miscellaneous parts like
> damper, jet, float, service kit #s, and more. It listed at 1.9 litre Weller
> six-cylinder engine from 1933- 1952 - all the triple carb set ups. Under
> damper it states: CAP; for piston spring there is no entry. Without going
> through the whole manual, you can see that many, many pre-1952 cars, such
> as: Alvis, Aston-Martin, Armstorng-Siddeley, Bentley-Rolls Royce,
> Frazer-Nash have CAP and no springs. However, under the listings for all
> Austin Healey cars (including Sprites) from 1952 - 1974, all carbs on those
> cars show dampers and springs, without exception. This includes 1954-56 100
> M Le Mans and 1955-56 100 S 4 cyl cars.
>
> As for the CAP unit, the manual shows 7 variants, from plain brass
> hexagon, some knurled brass round and some with stamps for OIL RESERVOIR or
> THIN OIL. They also list 5 different dampers with both brass and plastic
> caps.
>
> I can scan the Austin Healey section and attach for the group, if there is
> interest.
>
> Ben Cohen
>
> BN1
> BN7
> BJ8
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, December 24, 2024 at 10:17:52 AM MST, healeymanjim via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC
> and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole
> approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does
> the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Dec 28 06:27:30 2024
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2024 08:27:30 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>

I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
"Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?

TIA--Michael Oritt
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Dec 28 09:35:56 2024
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2024 08:35:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCCqJr0BapiH19-br=8VeytyzoN_mw7UQLpL1veFOMGGUA@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

The fail safe feature might never come into play in the life of the
thermostat. More important features for a Healey thermostat is a high flow
rating and bleed hole. These are features that will benefit the cooling
system on every drive.

Harold

On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:35?AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Dec 28 10:20:59 2024
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2024 12:20:59 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>

Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
occasion.
The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in traffic
on the highway after running at high speed.
On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature
usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat
although the warm up is a little slower.
The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees
C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type
thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the
thermostat is fully open.

M

On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>
> TIA--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Sun Dec 29 03:54:02 2024
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 10:54:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <OSQPR01MB64308C20AF26771CB2065DCD8C082@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello

The 1 ? SUs fitted to our 1948 Healey Duncan have Bakelite caps and are not fitted with dampers. However the pistons are made from steel and are very heavy.

They are the standard SUs fitted to the first real Healeys.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Robert Markovich via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, 28 December 2024 12:42 AM
To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>; healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb damper

I would put brass caps on all SUs even if they didn?t come with them. They look great and should last forever!

Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS<https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>


On Thursday, December 26, 2024, 9:46 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Yep, as others have suggested, the damper has blown through the cap.  I'm sure your TC hiccups if you press the gas too hard.

The TC would have a damper with a brass cap, best to get one of those.

On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 1:15?AM healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Sun Dec 29 03:55:52 2024
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 10:55:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] carb damper
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ2F3e=Pa5Wi1hsNwNrUYn_hmR3NV8Rs5wZcQvRDyQ2MQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20241224170220.16762.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAFBXTkK=GEEmYvB76MFT4JdaYdPLn7kd5+g+Qvrvj+BKMG+p9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <744527617.7367075.1735306933850@mail.yahoo.com>
 <285450770.6258807.1735317352034@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ2F3e=Pa5Wi1hsNwNrUYn_hmR3NV8Rs5wZcQvRDyQ2MQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <OSQPR01MB643088CE915AB865DE1CE7FA8C082@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello Mike

Our 1948 Healey Duncan has no damper and a very heavy steel piston.

Hoo Roo

Patrick

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, 28 December 2024 4:23 AM
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb damper

I have a vague recollection that early MGs like TA and TB actually had neither a damper of spring in the suction chamber.  They used a "heavy" piston.

M

On Fri., Dec. 27, 2024, 11:44 a.m. warthodson--- via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Make sure you have the correct damper cap (vented or unvented) for your application.
Gary Hodson - see below, from an MG website:

Some SUs have a hole in the damper cap, some have a vent in the web at the top of the dome. See the picture. You have to take the damper out to see the hole.

Anyway, you only want one hole per carb, either in the cap or the dome. If needed you can plug the damper cap.

Attachments:
carb1.jpg    10.7 KB
[https://www.mgexp.com/phile/1/495016/carb1.jpg]<https://www.mgexp.com/phile/1/495016/carb1.jpg>


On Friday, December 27, 2024 at 08:08:00 AM CST, Robert Markovich via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:


I would put brass caps on all SUs even if they didn?t come with them. They look great and should last forever!

Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS<https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>


On Thursday, December 26, 2024, 9:46 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Yep, as others have suggested, the damper has blown through the cap.  I'm sure your TC hiccups if you press the gas too hard.

The TC would have a damper with a brass cap, best to get one of those.

On Wed, Dec 25, 2024 at 1:15?AM healeymanjim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
ran into something have not seen before.  cleaning the carbs on an MGTC and discovered there is no damper.  there is a plastic cap and a 3/16 hole approx 1/4 inch deep in top of piston rod.  Moss shows a damper and so does the workshop manual.  any ideas what i have here?
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Dec 29 10:54:09 2024
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 17:54:09 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
Message-ID: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,
A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A decent
enough thing, it has it's own screen ie don't have to plug in to a smart
phone.
What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in respect
of working on their Healeys?
Thanks,
Simon
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From drtommitch at gmail.com  Sun Dec 29 11:10:10 2024
From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 13:10:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <3C348FEF-02B3-4F28-A236-C566600A9A32@gmail.com>

Hi, 
My friend here on the list, Al?lost a valve seat "the day" we were leaving for Conclave a few years ago.
It saved us time knowing what damage was and that it was unrepairable in the amount of time (none) we had.
Our biggest challenge was to determine what exactly what it was that we were looking at. ?

I?ve used it to help to get a wrench out of the frame member just under the carbs. 
Nowadays, assuming I remember, is to stuff a rag in the opening before working on the carburetors.

Tom 
65 BJ8

> On Dec 29, 2024, at 12:54?PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a smart phone.
> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in respect of working on their Healeys?
> Thanks,
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Dec 29 11:54:37 2024
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 13:54:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <3C348FEF-02B3-4F28-A236-C566600A9A32@gmail.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <3C348FEF-02B3-4F28-A236-C566600A9A32@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <018901db5a23$1d5f6d70$581e4850$@ec.rr.com>

A piece of foam rubber works grea t for me to keep stuff out f that ?black hole?.  I leave it in there all the time.
 
Steve Byers
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tom Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2024 1:10 PM
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Endoscope
 
Hi, 
My friend here on the list, Al?lost a valve seat "the day" we were leaving for Conclave a few years ago.
It saved us time knowing what damage was and that it was unrepairable in the amount of time (none) we had.
Our biggest challenge was to determine what exactly what it was that we were looking at. ?
 
I?ve used it to help to get a wrench out of the frame member just under the carbs. 
Nowadays, assuming I remember, is to stuff a rag in the opening before working on the carburetors.
 
Tom 
65 BJ8



On Dec 29, 2024, at 12:54?PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
 
Hi,
A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a smart phone.
What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in respect of working on their Healeys?
Thanks,
Simon
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From ryan at jimryan.com  Sun Dec 29 15:35:50 2024
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 17:35:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYz4t8GusMQBcWgWo+9==a5y-YX0pu8JW2u1_2jDXtAB4g@mail.gmail.com>

I found out I don't have any polyps.

... Oh sorry, I just saw the part about it being Healy related..

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024, 1:00?PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A
> decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a
> smart phone.
>
> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in
> respect of working on their Healeys?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 29 16:10:47 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 15:10:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwH6K2dpRot9NTK_ZHwL8H1yo2F64q506OFoZ=aZ=5JRVg@mail.gmail.com>

Simon, an endoscope verified for me what was happening in my BT-7's engine.
It turned out to be a dropped valve seat, and using the scope I could tell
before dismantling the engine that I had only one cylinder involved, and
also that the piston was intact.

Modern aircraft maintenance techs also use scopes to look at the valves and
see how spots before they get serious.

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024, 10:02?AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A
> decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a
> smart phone.
>
> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in
> respect of working on their Healeys?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 29 16:14:15 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 15:14:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <3C348FEF-02B3-4F28-A236-C566600A9A32@gmail.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <3C348FEF-02B3-4F28-A236-C566600A9A32@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwGjp3+MHCvnom9=G8VdgB0xBr+2NNXU5t-9+pMw9kUrNg@mail.gmail.com>

Yup, what he said.

The car ran flawlessly for many days then the morning of leaving for
Conclave it wouldn't run right. I refused to believe it was something
internally with the engine, but pulling the spark plugs and looking with
the scope made the diagnosis easy.

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024, 10:35?AM Tom Mitchell <drtommitch at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
> My friend here on the list, Al?lost a valve seat "the day" we were leaving
> for Conclave a few years ago.
> It saved us time knowing what damage was and that it was unrepairable in
> the amount of time (none) we had.
> Our biggest challenge was to determine what exactly what it was that we
> were looking at. ?
>
> I?ve used it to help to get a wrench out of the frame member just under
> the carbs.
> Nowadays, assuming I remember, is to stuff a rag in the opening before
> working on the carburetors.
>
> Tom
> 65 BJ8
>
> On Dec 29, 2024, at 12:54?PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A
> decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a
> smart phone.
> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in
> respect of working on their Healeys?
> Thanks,
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com
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>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 29 16:15:40 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 15:15:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYz4t8GusMQBcWgWo+9==a5y-YX0pu8JW2u1_2jDXtAB4g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAEajuYz4t8GusMQBcWgWo+9==a5y-YX0pu8JW2u1_2jDXtAB4g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwHmj1zAy29s1+UkVNt1ZWWUQw1GnfAnbj=dCW8B+WfQBA@mail.gmail.com>

Same instrument basically. Different use!! :)

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024, 2:45?PM Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com> wrote:

> I found out I don't have any polyps.
>
> ... Oh sorry, I just saw the part about it being Healy related..
>
> On Sun, Dec 29, 2024, 1:00?PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A
>> decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a
>> smart phone.
>>
>> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in
>> respect of working on their Healeys?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Dec 29 19:08:35 2024
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2024 21:08:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5eWzZGSovaLz+JLy6cez=rF7-qj3PY12s_ydY0NWsVSw@mail.gmail.com>

Simon--

In hindsight it sounds like an interesting tool.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 1:18?PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A
> decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a
> smart phone.
>
> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in
> respect of working on their Healeys?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 29 21:48:11 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 04:48:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5eWzZGSovaLz+JLy6cez=rF7-qj3PY12s_ydY0NWsVSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAPTa0B5eWzZGSovaLz+JLy6cez=rF7-qj3PY12s_ydY0NWsVSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB44455AEF40FF8610CC25C217A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Badump bum tish!!!
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2024 2:08 AM
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Endoscope

Simon--

In hindsight it sounds like an interesting tool.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 1:18?PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Hi,

A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a smart phone.

What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in respect of working on their Healeys?

Thanks,

Simon

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Dec 29 21:50:33 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 04:50:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR20MB44455AEF40FF8610CC25C217A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAPTa0B5eWzZGSovaLz+JLy6cez=rF7-qj3PY12s_ydY0NWsVSw@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH0PR20MB44455AEF40FF8610CC25C217A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB44457AF051A9FE58D8A9A417A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

You?ll never know how hard it was to get that past autocorrect.
________________________________
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2024 4:48 AM
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Endoscope

Badump bum tish!!!
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2024 2:08 AM
To: Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Endoscope

Simon--

In hindsight it sounds like an interesting tool.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 1:18?PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Hi,

A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a smart phone.

What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in respect of working on their Healeys?

Thanks,

Simon

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Dec 30 00:03:46 2024
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 15:03:46 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+yiRiu7hPkNSU0j59Z47m8S_m4AA09C0wR8kiERQpVmg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Simon -

They are helpful for determining #1 TDC for a 100.

I also like to use them to inspect the condition of cylinders so that I
don't have to break the head to diagnose certain issues.

They can also be useful when routing wiring or cables in tight spots.

I haven't done it, but I think these might help check on the condition of
the throwout bearing as well.

Cheers,

Alan

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 2:13?AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A
> decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to plug in to a
> smart phone.
>
> What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in
> respect of working on their Healeys?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Mon Dec 30 00:11:10 2024
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 07:11:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <OSQPR01MB64306058439DEE2C02C98E4E8C092@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

G'day

A very useful tool.

About 12 months after the very early C-series engine in the BN3 was rebuilt, I didn't have the occasion to run it for a time.

Attempted to start it and the engine wouldn't turn over. Battery okay. Starter okay.

What was the problem?

Used an endoscope to look through the spark plus holes to find serious rust scale on the bore of no. 1 and 4 cylinders. Turned out that the block had cracked and coolant was seeping in between the block and head.

Of course, the endoscope didn't fix it, but it helped me find the problem.

Advice. Don't try and bore an early 2.6 litre smooth sided crankcase out to 2.9 litre.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys
Sent: Monday, 30 December 2024 4:54 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope


Hi,

A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas. A decent enough thing, it has it's own screen ie don't have to plug in to a smart phone.

What luck, benefit or whatever has anyone had with an endoscope in respect of working on their Healeys?

Thanks,

Simon
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From roggrace at telus.net  Mon Dec 30 09:21:40 2024
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 08:21:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiPkea8XnW_qOmCZVpdEZrpW_6N+HwDuBSWGhDpDVyb7RQ@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was
working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars.
Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery
tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
relatively simple project and works well.
I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
WT - Smiths std gauge
OT- oil temp at filter
EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
TH - top hose water temp
Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched;
160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold
have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
Most interesting observations are:
Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30
min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we
under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine
block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help -
hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for
competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too
rich for the inlet air.
Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but
seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really
good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an
obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
rg






On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
> occasion.
> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in
> traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature
> usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat
> although the warm up is a little slower.
> The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
> seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees
> C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type
> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the
> thermostat is fully open.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
>> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>>
>> TIA--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec 30 10:27:34 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 09:27:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Endoscope
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR20MB44457AF051A9FE58D8A9A417A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
References: <001101db5a1a$ab1967a0$014c36e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAPTa0B5eWzZGSovaLz+JLy6cez=rF7-qj3PY12s_ydY0NWsVSw@mail.gmail.com>
 <PH0PR20MB44455AEF40FF8610CC25C217A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
 <PH0PR20MB44457AF051A9FE58D8A9A417A5092@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <c7de2826-680d-4e95-875c-db533e46d0da@comcast.net>

I bought one that plugs into my iPhone SE (the 'cheapie'). There's 
several brands on Amazon, all about $170 last I checked. I too found a 
wrench in the 'Healey Black Hole' that was causing a banging sound when 
I hit bumps; drove me crazy for years. I dropped a bolt under my 
Lincoln's intake manifold that I'd R&R's to repair rat damage, I would 
otherwise have had to R&R the manifold again, and it's a pain. Also used 
it to confirm I'd reattached the coolant line to the throttle body, and 
that it didn't leak, and have used it several other times.

They're indispensable IMO, and I think my iPhone gives better resolution 
than the ones with their own display, though the limiting factor is the 
camera's resolution.

Bob


On 12/29/2024 8:50 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> You?ll never know how hard it was to get that past autocorrect.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, December 30, 2024 4:48 AM
> *To:* Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Simon Lachlan 
> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Endoscope
> Badump bum tish!!!
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael 
> Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, December 30, 2024 2:08 AM
> *To:* Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Endoscope
> Simon--
>
> In hindsight it sounds like an interesting tool.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 1:18?PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Hi,
>
>     A wise and thoughtful Santa brought me an endoscope for Christmas.
>     A decent enough thing, it has it?s own screen ie don?t have to
>     plug in toa smart phone.
>
>     What luck, benefitor whateverhas anyone had withan endoscopein
>     respect of working ontheir Healeys?
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Simon
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 30 11:12:45 2024
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 10:12:45 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiPkea8XnW_qOmCZVpdEZrpW_6N+HwDuBSWGhDpDVyb7RQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPkea8XnW_qOmCZVpdEZrpW_6N+HwDuBSWGhDpDVyb7RQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwHS5E1oDVSMt-NO_pHyGLHpycVDgq+0NPF9zwg6dGB4xw@mail.gmail.com>

Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information
is displayed?

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30?AM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was
> working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars.
> Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery
> tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
> relatively simple project and works well.
> I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
> WT - Smiths std gauge
> OT- oil temp at filter
> EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
> TH - top hose water temp
> Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
> 5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched;
> 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold
> have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
> Most interesting observations are:
> Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30
> min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
> TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
> EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we
> under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine
> block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
> obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help -
> hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for
> competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too
> rich for the inlet air.
> Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but
> seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really
> good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
> Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an
> obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
> Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
> Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
>> occasion.
>> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in
>> traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
>> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature
>> usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat
>> although the warm up is a little slower.
>> The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
>> seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
>> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5
>> degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type
>> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the
>> thermostat is fully open.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
>>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail
>>> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>>>
>>> TIA--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Dec 30 17:59:13 2024
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2024 16:59:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <CADkpZwHS5E1oDVSMt-NO_pHyGLHpycVDgq+0NPF9zwg6dGB4xw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPkea8XnW_qOmCZVpdEZrpW_6N+HwDuBSWGhDpDVyb7RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADkpZwHS5E1oDVSMt-NO_pHyGLHpycVDgq+0NPF9zwg6dGB4xw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20145277-4948-45b5-ae04-1fee1fa58b36@comcast.net>

re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks 
that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the 
actual engine block surface"

I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave 
exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines will 
not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat up when 
sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer days, but 
start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can only attribute 
the difference to airflow temp.


On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
> Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the 
> information is displayed?
>
> ________________
> Sent from my phone
> Best Regards,
> Al Fuller
>
> On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30?AM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
>     Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine
>     was working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for
>     our cars. Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an
>     overflow recovery tank that ensures you start off with a full
>     header tank. This is a relatively simple project and works well.
>     I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed
>     switches :
>     WT - Smiths std gauge
>     OT- oil temp at filter
>     EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
>     TH - top hose water temp
>     Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
>     5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually
>     switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad
>     recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL
>     finned sump.
>     Most interesting observations are:
>     Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at
>     least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
>     TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
>     EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks
>     that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on
>     the actual engine block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a
>     big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if
>     an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and
>     sides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs
>     badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air.
>     Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce
>     temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to
>     anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after
>     cutting the engine.
>     Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and
>     an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
>     Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
>     Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
>     rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>     On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter
>     <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>         Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating
>         problems on occasion.
>         The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming
>         stalled in traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
>         On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the
>         temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F)
>         even without a thermostat although the warm up is a little
>         slower.
>         The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that
>         the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above
>         traffic problems occur.
>         I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate),
>         runs 5 degrees C? higher even when using a 165 degree bellows
>         or wax pellet type thermostat. I suspect this is due to the
>         slight restriction even when the thermostat is fully open.
>
>         M
>
>         On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt
>         <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>             I need?to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of
>             negative reviews for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and
>             many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.?
>             What is the collective experience with these?
>
>             TIA--Michael Oritt
>             _______________________________________________
>             Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>             Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>             http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>             Healeys at autox.team.net
>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>             Unsubscribe/Manage:
>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
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>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
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>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
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>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Mon Dec 30 18:46:12 2024
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2024 01:46:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <20145277-4948-45b5-ae04-1fee1fa58b36@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPkea8XnW_qOmCZVpdEZrpW_6N+HwDuBSWGhDpDVyb7RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADkpZwHS5E1oDVSMt-NO_pHyGLHpycVDgq+0NPF9zwg6dGB4xw@mail.gmail.com>
 <20145277-4948-45b5-ae04-1fee1fa58b36@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <90965679.8332124.1735609572433@mail.yahoo.com>

If there were room for a full radiator shroud,?that would help. Otherwise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) are inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on when you know you?ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a show. I?ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, 160-degree F thermostat,?and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan is the trick.?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Monday, December 30, 2024, 8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface"
 
 I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines will not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat up when sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer days, but start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can only attribute the difference to airflow temp.
 
 
 On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
  
 
 Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information is displayed? 
  ________________
 Sent from my phone 
 Best Regards,
 Al Fuller  
  On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30?AM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
  
  Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a relatively simple project and works well. I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
  WT - Smiths std gauge
  OT- oil temp at filter EC - engine compartment near carb intakes TH - top hose water temp
  Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
  5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
  Most interesting observations are: Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
  TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air. Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
  Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
  Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling. Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
  rg
  
  
  
  
  
   
  On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
  
  Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occasion. The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in traffic on the highway after running at high speed. On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm up is a little slower. 
  The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur. I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees C? higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the thermostat is fully open. 
  M
   
  On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
  
  I need?to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.? What is the collective experience with these? 
  TIA--Michael Oritt  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
 
 
  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
 
 
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 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
 
 
  
  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Dec 30 21:17:32 2024
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2024 04:17:32 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats
In-Reply-To: <90965679.8332124.1735609572433@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4GLAzKhb=MTNr4Tx9DrBq2_W-w3yJLgNUG-ZoaSq9vNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKEnnbhJ3LQuNCpnWMcCX4vTcXi8jSqpUB5CYMcr3D+yg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPkea8XnW_qOmCZVpdEZrpW_6N+HwDuBSWGhDpDVyb7RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADkpZwHS5E1oDVSMt-NO_pHyGLHpycVDgq+0NPF9zwg6dGB4xw@mail.gmail.com>
 <20145277-4948-45b5-ae04-1fee1fa58b36@comcast.net>
 <90965679.8332124.1735609572433@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <PH0PR20MB4445ECDCD69FEA207AD798CAA50A2@PH0PR20MB4445.namprd20.prod.outlook.com>

Note to purists: please ignore this post.

I solved the cooling problems on my 100. First I removed the mechanical fan and now display it on my garage wall. Then I had the radiator rodded. I installed two 10 inch pusher fans on the front of the radiator with alloy plates where they overhung the edges of the radiator to block flow around the radiator and direct all airflow through the core. I installed a thermostatic switch and relay to provide full battery power to the fans. I had to provide extra space for the fan bodies so I cut the x members loose at the top and bent them forward to provide an extra half inch of clearance and re-welded them to the upper cross member. The car can now sit and idle in 100 degree weather and maintain a water temperature below 185 degrees F. The fans don?t normally run while the car is in motion. But work very well in traffic and when standing still. Don?t bother to tell me how many concours points I?ve lost?

Bill Lawrence
BN1 554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Robert Markovich via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 1:46 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats

If there were room for a full radiator shroud, that would help. Otherwise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) are inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on when you know you?ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a show. I?ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, 160-degree F thermostat, and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan is the trick.


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS<https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>


On Monday, December 30, 2024, 8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface"

I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines will not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat up when sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer days, but start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can only attribute the difference to airflow temp.


On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information is displayed?

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30?AM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net<mailto:roggrace at telus.net>> wrote:
Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a relatively simple project and works well.
I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
WT - Smiths std gauge
OT- oil temp at filter
EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
TH - top hose water temp
Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
Most interesting observations are:
Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air.
Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
rg






On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occasion.
The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm up is a little slower.
The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the thermostat is fully open.

M

On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32?AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com<mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>> wrote:
I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?

TIA--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________
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