From warthodson at aol.com Sat Apr 6 07:57:25 2024 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 13:57:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] messages References: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> The last message I received was on March 23. Has there been any activity since then?Gary Hodson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Apr 6 08:29:14 2024 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 10:29:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] messages In-Reply-To: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, Yes, there have been a few messages. The unrestored BN1 in San Fran sold for $20K.? Patrick Quinn is looking for a hi res photo of Ava Gardner driving a 100/6 in the "On the Beach" film.? Michael Salter has a new post on his blog. And Charlie Rice was wondering about gear reduction starters. Most of the replies leaned toward rebuilding the original. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 4/6/24 09:57, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > The last message I received was on March 23. Has there been any > activity since then? > Gary Hodson > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sat Apr 6 08:35:02 2024 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Leonard Hartnett) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 07:35:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] messages In-Reply-To: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <65C3C69E5CD34D7E9629634A814EE179@MargaretPC> To all: The last I find is from Richard Kahn on March 31 regarding starters. The Other Len 1967 Austin-Healey 3000 MkIII BJ8 HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: warthodson--- via Healeys To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2024 6:57 AM Subject: [Healeys] messages The last message I received was on March 23. Has there been any activity since then? Gary Hodson ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Apr 6 08:37:04 2024 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 10:37:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] messages In-Reply-To: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary-- I continue to get plenty of messages from the AH Forum. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Apr 6, 2024 at 10:28?AM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > The last message I received was on March 23. Has there been any activity > since then? > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Apr 6 09:24:03 2024 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 08:24:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Additional Brake Lights for a BT7 Message-ID: Hello, My newly restored BT7 was rear-ended a week ago and will be out of commission for most of the summer. Needless to say I am not happy with this situation. I have heard mention there is a kit to replace the reflectors in the rear shroud with additional brake lights. Does anyone have experience with this kit and know who supplies it? Thanks.... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sat Apr 6 11:31:05 2024 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2024 17:31:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Additional Brake Lights for a BT7 Message-ID: <2fa6c4ba-61d4-bd4c-10dc-2df4f35b12fa@charter.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sat Apr 6 11:35:05 2024 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 13:35:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Additional Brake Lights for a BT7 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0fe73457-2410-435f-be39-c1db448b6631@earthlink.net> Harold, Allen Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheel Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 4/6/24 11:24, Harold Manifold wrote: > Hello, > > My newly restored BT7 was rear-ended a week ago and will be out of > commission?for most of the summer. Needless to say I am not happy with > this situation. I have heard mention there is a kit to replace the > reflectors in the rear shroud?with additional brake lights. > > Does anyone have experience with this kit and know who supplies?it? > > Thanks.... Harold > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sat Apr 6 11:55:19 2024 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2024 17:55:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] messages In-Reply-To: References: <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2096796590.4845855.1712411845808@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <631421438.5232715.1712426119434@mail.yahoo.com> Thankyou to everyone who replied to my inquiry! I feel better knowing this forum is alive & well.?Gary Hodson? On Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 09:37:16 AM CDT, Michael Oritt wrote: Gary--?I continue to get plenty of messages from the?AH Forum. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Apr 6, 2024 at 10:28?AM warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: The last message I received was on March 23. Has there been any activity since then?Gary Hodson_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhomonek at mindspring.com Sat Apr 6 19:09:17 2024 From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2024 01:09:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Additional Brake Lights for a BT7 Message-ID: <2caf1ee9-7999-78f3-2f9d-e8c9b2eb3fad@mindspring.com> Harold, I have the fear of being rear ended. I have the reflector lights from Hendrix on my 3000 but will be adding this license plate frame with led red lights soon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GQIWXOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I currently have this installed on my Jensen Healey and Bugeye too...very bright! Cheers, John Homonek bn7 at mindspring.com -----Original Message----- From: Harold Manifold Sent: Apr 6, 2024 1:15 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Additional Brake Lights for a BT7 Hello, My newly restored BT7 was rear-ended a week ago and will be out of commission for most of the summer. Needless to say I am not happy with this situation. I have heard mention there is a kit to replace the reflectors in the rear shroud with additional brake lights. Does anyone have experience with this kit and know who supplies it? Thanks.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys (http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys) Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jhomonek at mindspring.com From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 11 18:00:32 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2024 17:00:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting Message-ID: <92032909-d223-46a8-bb9a-5e9d51769406@comcast.net> I'm not a fan of hot/resto-mods, but I can appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into them. While half-watching the show 'Texas Metal' I caught an unusual sight for one of these shows and managed to grab a screen shot. Anyone know anything about this car? Noted Healey collector Dennis Collins, of 'Fast and Loud' fame is from Texas, I wonder if he's commissioned a build? Usually, one of the first/common things these builders do is 'slam the car to the ground;' I'd say Healeys are already pretty well slammed, and good luck fitting 24" 'dubs.' -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: TexasMetal.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 569835 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Apr 12 07:33:09 2024 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 09:33:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting In-Reply-To: <92032909-d223-46a8-bb9a-5e9d51769406@comcast.net> References: <92032909-d223-46a8-bb9a-5e9d51769406@comcast.net> Message-ID: They did an MGC for John Cena a couple years ago.? It sold on BAT last October. Bob Haskell Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 4/11/24 20:00, Bob Spidell wrote: > I'm not a fan of hot/resto-mods, but I can appreciate the > craftsmanship that goes into them. While half-watching the show 'Texas > Metal' I caught an unusual sight for one of these shows and managed to > grab a screen shot. Anyone know anything about this car? Noted Healey > collector Dennis Collins, of 'Fast and Loud' fame is from Texas, I > wonder if he's commissioned a build? Usually, one of the first/common > things these builders do is 'slam the car to the ground;' I'd say > Healeys are already pretty well slammed, and good luck fitting 24" 'dubs.' > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Fri Apr 12 20:45:25 2024 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 19:45:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?o/d?= Message-ID: <20240413024525.6079.qmail@server278.com> overdrive will not release when switch is returned to normal. will release after engine shutdown and sitting for a while. suspect the tiny hole in operating rod is plugged, but seeking ideas of what else it could be before i start removing tunnel. From roggrace at telus.net Fri Apr 12 22:04:47 2024 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2024 21:04:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] o/d In-Reply-To: <20240413024525.6079.qmail@server278.com> References: <20240413024525.6079.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Check if solenoid actually drops out after flooring the gas pedal with ignition on. You should be able to hear it. If not, then problem is likely electrical - maybe the TS. If it does drop out then problem is likely mechanical. An od with good hydraulics will hold pressure for several hours. rg Virus-free.www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Fri, Apr 12, 2024 at 8:03?PM healeymanjim via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > overdrive will not release when switch is returned to normal. will > release after engine shutdown and sitting for a while. suspect the tiny > hole in operating rod is plugged, but seeking ideas of what else it could > be before i start removing tunnel. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Apr 15 18:26:00 2024 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2024 20:26:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes Message-ID: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don't mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don't sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name "Disc Brake Quiet" [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks - any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Mon Apr 15 18:42:48 2024 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2024 17:42:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Did the rotors ever have a light layer of surface rust? This can happen if the car sits too long in an unheated area. When you start driving the car again the rust layer imbeds itself into the pads. My experience is once the rust gets embedded in the pads there isn't much you can do to remedy the situation other than change to new pads. Harold On Mon, Apr 15, 2024 at 5:32?PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or > so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it > seems. I don?t mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not > because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. > > > > I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, > but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and > lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just > to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I > took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction > material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. > I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used > emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts > supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don?t sell them > separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex > product with the promising name ?Disc Brake Quiet? [sic]. This I applied > per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust > out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for > irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built > about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining > pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and > went out for a test drive. > > > > The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. > > > > So folks ? any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out > the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what > I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am > flummoxed. > > > > All suggestions welcome. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 15 18:54:49 2024 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 00:54:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Sounds like your pads are too hard. I instruct at tracks in a Sportscar and use hard pads while on the track and change them out to different pads for street use. The track pads squeal painfully until heated up on the track but they don?t get heated enough while street driving. My BN7 doesn?t squeal but unfortunately I can?t tell you what brand I?m using when I rebuilt mine 10-12 years ago. Regards, Richard C On Apr 15, 2024, at 19:33, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: ? Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don?t mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don?t sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name ?Disc Brake Quiet? [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks ? any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 16 02:12:29 2024 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 16:12:29 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: The anti squeal shims on my BJ8 have worked flawlessly for 20 years. I think the deal is there are a few different patterns of the shims and if you get the wrong ones they don't work well. I had another set of shims and they squealed then I got ones with a different shape and they work well. On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 8:44?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or > so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it > seems. I don?t mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not > because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. > > > > I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, > but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and > lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just > to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I > took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction > material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. > I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used > emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts > supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don?t sell them > separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex > product with the promising name ?Disc Brake Quiet? [sic]. This I applied > per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust > out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for > irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built > about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining > pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and > went out for a test drive. > > > > The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. > > > > So folks ? any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out > the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what > I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am > flummoxed. > > > > All suggestions welcome. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Apr 16 02:43:25 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 09:43:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> I have a BT7 also. (MkII). I had squeaky brakes and found my anti-shim pads to be pretty useless. Worse, in a way, sometimes the brakes were quiet and sometimes they really howled! Anyhow...I asked around and did some research which led me to EBC pads. I think there are two or three materials used...depending on what you use the car for. "Greenstuff" is the regular road set and the ones that I use. According to my files(!), the code was DP2141 ie for Girling 14s. (I've switched to 16s which take DP2291.) And, with particular regard to anti-shim pads, EBC supply a rubber backing material which you cut to size yourself. Back to the files:- They describe the material as a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". I see that I've been using EBC pads since some years before April 2012. They work for me. I've attached their installation instructions which are pretty generic.nothing much unique to their pads. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 1:26 AM To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don't mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don't sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name "Disc Brake Quiet" [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks - any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: EBC installation instructions.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 1291766 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Tomfelts at windstream.net Tue Apr 16 04:09:11 2024 From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 06:09:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <603390841.143584872.1713262151025.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net> I found that if I applied some Al antiseize grease on the back of the metal that the pads are attached to, this stops the squeal From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys" To: "Healeys" Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 4:43:25 AM Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes I have a BT7 also. (MkII). I had squeaky brakes and found my anti-shim pads to be pretty useless. Worse, in a way, sometimes the brakes were quiet and sometimes they really howled! Anyhow?..I asked around and did some research which led me to EBC pads. I think there are two or three materials used?..depending on what you use the car for. ?Greenstuff? is the regular road set and the ones that I use. According to my files(!), the code was DP2141 ie for Girling 14s. (I?ve switched to 16s which take DP2291.) And, with particular regard to anti-shim pads, EBC supply a rubber backing material which you cut to size yourself. Back to the files:- They describe the material as a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". I see that I?ve been using EBC pads since some years before April 2012. They work for me. I?ve attached their installation instructions which are pretty generic?nothing much unique to their pads. Simon From: Healeys < [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net | healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] > On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 1:26 AM To: Healey List < [ mailto:healeys at autox.team.net | healeys at autox.team.net ] > Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don?t mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don?t sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name ?Disc Brake Quiet? [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks ? any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Apr 16 06:09:18 2024 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 08:09:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <020a01da8ff6$e8630060$b9290120$@sympatico.ca> Thanks everyone, especially Simon for the detailed response. Someone else has suggested my pads may be too hard and I should try changing them. Simon, First, I am unfamiliar with "Girling 14" vs, "Girling 16". I know there was a change in the brakes somewhere in the later cars, so I am assuming a stock BT7 (late 1959) has Girling 14s? Can someone confirm that? Also, I went on the EBC site and they don't have a listing for Austin Healey, but do list the DP2141. Simon if you are positive about the product number I will go with that. I am still weighing options before shelling out $150 for pads, but the EBC option is looking best right now. I also see the normal suppliers offering anti-squeal kits, and may try those first after having a chat with them. Our local supplier, Healey Autofarm, also restore and drive Healeys, so they may have some thoughts. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 4:43 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes I have a BT7 also. (MkII). I had squeaky brakes and found my anti-shim pads to be pretty useless. Worse, in a way, sometimes the brakes were quiet and sometimes they really howled! Anyhow...I asked around and did some research which led me to EBC pads. I think there are two or three materials used...depending on what you use the car for. "Greenstuff" is the regular road set and the ones that I use. According to my files(!), the code was DP2141 ie for Girling 14s. (I've switched to 16s which take DP2291.) And, with particular regard to anti-shim pads, EBC supply a rubber backing material which you cut to size yourself. Back to the files:- They describe the material as a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". I see that I've been using EBC pads since some years before April 2012. They work for me. I've attached their installation instructions which are pretty generic.nothing much unique to their pads. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 1:26 AM To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don't mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don't sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name "Disc Brake Quiet" [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks - any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Apr 16 07:58:11 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 14:58:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <020a01da8ff6$e8630060$b9290120$@sympatico.ca> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> <020a01da8ff6$e8630060$b9290120$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000301da9006$1f7bedf0$5e73c9d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Thanks everyone, especially Simon for the detailed response. Someone else has suggested my pads may be too hard and I should try changing them. Simon, First, I am unfamiliar with "Girling 14" vs, "Girling 16". I know there was a change in the brakes somewhere in the later cars, so I am assuming a stock BT7 (late 1959) has Girling 14s? Can someone confirm that? >> Yes, a stock BT7 has 14s. Just that I swapped to 16s which are bigger. Also, I went on the EBC site and they don't have a listing for Austin Healey, but do list the DP2141. Simon if you are positive about the product number I will go with that. >> Yes, it's still DP2141. Here's a page:- EBC Brakes | EBC Brake Pads | EBC Brake Discs | EBC Brake Shop No, you plainly don't want the whole kit but it demonstrates that the pads are still out there and still listed as DP2141. See Ahead4Healeys:- KEVLAR BRAKE PADS - ROAD/FAST ROAD (ahead4healeys.co.uk) They use their catalogue number but you could email them.? Seems cheaper than $150:00. Simon I am still weighing options before shelling out $150 for pads, but the EBC option is looking best right now. I also see the normal suppliers offering anti-squeal kits, and may try those first after having a chat with them. Our local supplier, Healey Autofarm, also restore and drive Healeys, so they may have some thoughts. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 4:43 AM To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes I have a BT7 also. (MkII). I had squeaky brakes and found my anti-shim pads to be pretty useless. Worse, in a way, sometimes the brakes were quiet and sometimes they really howled! Anyhow...I asked around and did some research which led me to EBC pads. I think there are two or three materials used...depending on what you use the car for. "Greenstuff" is the regular road set and the ones that I use. According to my files(!), the code was DP2141 ie for Girling 14s. (I've switched to 16s which take DP2291.) And, with particular regard to anti-shim pads, EBC supply a rubber backing material which you cut to size yourself. Back to the files:- They describe the material as a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". I see that I've been using EBC pads since some years before April 2012. They work for me. I've attached their installation instructions which are pretty generic.nothing much unique to their pads. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 1:26 AM To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don't mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don't sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name "Disc Brake Quiet" [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks - any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Apr 16 16:08:19 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 23:08:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <024c01da902b$13761470$3a623d50$@sympatico.ca> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> <020a01da8ff6$e8630060$b9290120$@sympatico.ca> <000301da9006$1f7bedf0$5e73c9d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <022501da9009$289f12b0$79dd3810$@sympatico.ca> <001101da901e$a59d0280$f0d70780$@alexarevel.plus.com> <024c01da902b$13761470$3a623d50$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <001a01da904a$97fb4f20$c7f1ed60$@alexarevel.plus.com> Hey Simon, I am getting mixed messages on which pad to use. It is problem when the suppliers use their own part numbers and it is hard to tell what the equivalent EBC number is. Ahead4Healeys and my supplier sell the same parts and have the same part numbers. The confusion is that: 1. The EBC part number DP2141 that you recommend is about $150 from various suppliers. >> Again, per my previous, seems that you can get them cheaper direct from AH4H 2. My Healey supplier sells several EBC pads, using their own part numbers (same as Ahead4 Healeys, i.e. I can't determine the EBC part number), one which is $157 and another that is $238. >> They're AH4H's agents? They would use their catalogue numbers. However, if they can't make it clear to you which one is DP2141, they are either taking you for a mug or they're just lazy and/or incompetent. 3. Logic tells me that based on price the $157 pads are the same as the $150 EBC pad DP2141 >> Agreed but my comments above remain valid. 4. My supplier is telling me the $157 pads are for a competition caliper and that I need the $238 pads. >> Get a better supplier. Ring AH4H. Ask for Keith Bates, one of the directors. Nice chap.knows the business backwards..practical/hands-on ie not just some wretched money cruncher. There is some thing wrong here but before I shell out and get the wrong ones I want to understand it. >> Ring AH4H!! I note that on the UK EBC site that you sent to me, the DP2141 pad is supplied with a kit that has an upgraded brake disc. Are you running your DP2141 with a standard Healey brake disk? That site also list another pad, DP701 for the Healey. >> No.that page was just a random page that demonstrated that the pads were still on the market and that the part number remains extant. >> No, I'm not running those pads anymore because I've got bigger discs now.16s as opposed to the original 's 14s. (Still with EBC, just a different part number). And, should you ask,..yes the bigger discs make a difference but is it worth it? Depends on what you do with the car. Personally, I'm forever messing around and, in this instance, I persuaded myself that a projected trip around the highest peaks in the Alps necessitated bigger brakes. As good an excuse as any! See attached which is strictly 100% irrelevant but why not? Here is the actual note from my supplier: Hi Mirek, The BR4277 are for the new competition calipers only. [these are $158 and I think are the EBC DP2141, but could be DP701] >> They should know and, if they don't know, they should contact AH4H and ask! The BR4273 are for the standard road cars. [this is some other EBC pad - I don't know which one] >> Useless! So the whole thing is confusing me - I just want the "greenstuff" EBC pad that will fit a standard BT& with standard calipers and disks. Ring AH4H or email them FAO Keith Bates.:- sales at ah4.co.uk &/or info at ah4.co.uk Simon Cheers! From: Simon Lachlan > Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 12:54 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes Or go direct to AhHealeys. Nice strong $ these days... Yes, my link was a UK site. From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 3:20 PM To: 'Simon Lachlan' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes Thanks Simon, The EBC site that link takes me to is different to the North American site - weird. Our local Healey specialist is the NA rep for Ahead4Healeys and carries the same pad, but I think gets them from Ahead4 and the price is ridiculous. I can source them cheaper from other suppliers. Thanks for the great info, I am thinking I will go the EBC route. Cheers, Mirek From: Simon Lachlan > Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 9:58 AM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca ; 'Healeys' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes Thanks everyone, especially Simon for the detailed response. Someone else has suggested my pads may be too hard and I should try changing them. Simon, First, I am unfamiliar with "Girling 14" vs, "Girling 16". I know there was a change in the brakes somewhere in the later cars, so I am assuming a stock BT7 (late 1959) has Girling 14s? Can someone confirm that? >> Yes, a stock BT7 has 14s. Just that I swapped to 16s which are bigger. Also, I went on the EBC site and they don't have a listing for Austin Healey, but do list the DP2141. Simon if you are positive about the product number I will go with that. >> Yes, it's still DP2141. Here's a page:- EBC Brakes | EBC Brake Pads | EBC Brake Discs | EBC Brake Shop No, you plainly don't want the whole kit but it demonstrates that the pads are still out there and still listed as DP2141. See Ahead4Healeys:- KEVLAR BRAKE PADS - ROAD/FAST ROAD (ahead4healeys.co.uk) They use their catalogue number but you could email them.? Seems cheaper than $150:00. Simon I am still weighing options before shelling out $150 for pads, but the EBC option is looking best right now. I also see the normal suppliers offering anti-squeal kits, and may try those first after having a chat with them. Our local supplier, Healey Autofarm, also restore and drive Healeys, so they may have some thoughts. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 4:43 AM To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes I have a BT7 also. (MkII). I had squeaky brakes and found my anti-shim pads to be pretty useless. Worse, in a way, sometimes the brakes were quiet and sometimes they really howled! Anyhow...I asked around and did some research which led me to EBC pads. I think there are two or three materials used...depending on what you use the car for. "Greenstuff" is the regular road set and the ones that I use. According to my files(!), the code was DP2141 ie for Girling 14s. (I've switched to 16s which take DP2291.) And, with particular regard to anti-shim pads, EBC supply a rubber backing material which you cut to size yourself. Back to the files:- They describe the material as a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". I see that I've been using EBC pads since some years before April 2012. They work for me. I've attached their installation instructions which are pretty generic.nothing much unique to their pads. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of m.g.sharp--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2024 1:26 AM To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Squealy Brakes Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it seems. I don't mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don't sell them separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex product with the promising name "Disc Brake Quiet" [sic]. This I applied per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and went out for a test drive. The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. So folks - any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am flummoxed. All suggestions welcome. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Bigger Front Discs on A 3000 Mk1 or MkII.docx Type: application/vnd.openxmlformats-officedocument.wordprocessingml.document Size: 2452856 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Apr 16 18:18:07 2024 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2024 20:18:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes In-Reply-To: <020a01da8ff6$e8630060$b9290120$@sympatico.ca> References: <01c401da8f94$a89f87d0$f9de9770$@sympatico.ca> <000d01da8fda$262fa4b0$728eee10$@alexarevel.plus.com> <020a01da8ff6$e8630060$b9290120$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: I don't have the model number but several years back put EBC's "Greenstuff" pads on my 100 w/BT7 conversion. No squeaks and good braking! Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 8:51?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thanks everyone, especially Simon for the detailed response. Someone > else has suggested my pads may be too hard and I should try changing them. > > > > Simon, First, I am unfamiliar with ?Girling 14? vs, ?Girling 16?. I know > there was a change in the brakes somewhere in the later cars, so I am > assuming a stock BT7 (late 1959) has Girling 14s? Can someone confirm that? > > > > Also, I went on the EBC site and they don?t have a listing for Austin > Healey, but do list the DP2141. Simon if you are positive about the > product number I will go with that. > > > > I am still weighing options before shelling out $150 for pads, but the EBC > option is looking best right now. I also see the normal suppliers offering > anti-squeal kits, and may try those first after having a chat with them. > Our local supplier, Healey Autofarm, also restore and drive Healeys, so > they may have some thoughts. > > > > Cheers, Mirek > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Simon > Lachlan via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 16, 2024 4:43 AM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] FW: Squealy Brakes > > > > > > > > I have a BT7 also. (MkII). I had squeaky brakes and found my anti-shim > pads to be pretty useless. Worse, in a way, sometimes the brakes were quiet > and sometimes they really howled! > > Anyhow?..I asked around and did some research which led me to EBC pads. I > think there are two or three materials used?..depending on what you use the > car for. ?Greenstuff? is the regular road set and the ones that I use. > > According to my files(!), the code was DP2141 ie for Girling 14s. (I?ve > switched to 16s which take DP2291.) > > And, with particular regard to anti-shim pads, EBC supply a rubber backing > material which you cut to size yourself. Back to the files:- They describe > the material as a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive > > acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature > formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for > general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil > > liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and > apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to > prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted > > by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". > > I see that I?ve been using EBC pads since some years before April 2012. > They work for me. > > I?ve attached their installation instructions which are pretty > generic?nothing much unique to their pads. > > Simon > > > > > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *m.g.sharp--- > via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 16, 2024 1:26 AM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Squealy Brakes > > > > Hi all, I have had intermittent squealy brakes on my BT7 the last year or > so. I got it out of hibernation a week ago and the squealing is worse, it > seems. I don?t mind heads turning when I pull up at a light, but not > because it sounds like I just ran over a cat. > > > > I put new pads in a few years back and installed the anti-squeal shims, > but they did not work. Today I pulled out the pads, tossed the shims and > lightly rubbed the pads on a sheet of #120 emery on a plate of glass, just > to take the sheen of the friction side and ensure the backs were flat. I > took a file and gently broke the leading and trailing edges of the friction > material, as the edges were quite sharp and though one could be catching. > I then cleaned the pads with brake part cleaner. I also lightly used > emery on the disks to remove any glaze. I had gone to my local auto parts > supplier to see if they had any anti-squeal shims but they don?t sell them > separately from the pads. However, they highly recommended a Permatex > product with the promising name ?Disc Brake Quiet? [sic]. This I applied > per the instructions, spraying it on the back of the pads. I blew the dust > out of the calipers and, as best I could, checked the pistons for > irregularities where they bear on the pads. The calipers were re-built > about 5 years ago with stainless pistons and they looked as new. Retaining > pins were cleaned and very lightly greased. I re-assembled everything and > went out for a test drive. > > > > The results were staggering in that there was no difference whatsoever. > > > > So folks ? any good ideas out there? I am wondering if should switch out > the pads, but mine are barely worn and I am not sure I have record of what > I put in, so may end up with the same make. Other than that, I am > flummoxed. > > > > All suggestions welcome. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Apr 17 11:52:47 2024 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2024 10:52:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?exhaust?= Message-ID: <20240417175247.34313.qmail@server278.com> have a very solid exhaust that got torn off a BN4 while loading on trailer. flex pipes gone but all else in good shape for $20. can send pictures if interested. From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Apr 18 11:57:41 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2024 18:57:41 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Track rod ends Message-ID: <000001da91b9$e9a28350$bce789f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Can anyone tell me if the track rod ends, below, can be used on a MkII BT7. The previous ones had a grease nipple and these ones are sealed. These apparently started mid-way through BJ7s. Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: winmail.dat Type: application/ms-tnef Size: 859233 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Apr 19 10:02:09 2024 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2024 12:02:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft needed/need fulfilled Message-ID: I am currently having a good amount of work done on my 100 at "Proper Noise", a restoration shop just outside Reading, PA. Among other things, I requested that the engine be torn down as it had been about 90,000 miles since it was overhauled in 2003. Beyond the usual "wear items" I expected to replace, magnafluxing of the (original) crankshaft revealed that it was cracked. While not surprising his was nevertheless disappointing as I feared I would not be able to find a good stock crank in a timely fashion and that I might have to buy a DW billet crank, which apparently also involves buying forged rods that are either required or strongly recommended to go along with it. Back in 2003 I installed a DW "fast road" camshaft along with an AL cylinder head and tubular headers, but since I observe a 5500 rpm redline and do not race the car I felt I was going to be spending big bucks for competition-level parts on a street car that is perhaps, "semi-vigorously driven" at most. I put out a message on this list as well as on the 100 and BCF forums asking if anyone had a good crank and I got several responses from folks who had cranks that had not been crack-tested but I found no likely candidates "this side of the pond". I was naturally skeptical of any untested cranks--after all, unless someone were building up a race engine why would someone replace a 100 crankshaft except that it was cracked? Then I received a message from Michael Salter--a known and trusted source with whom I have previously done business--saying that he had two cranks on hand which had been crack-tested. This was great news and we made arrangements to have them retested, which turned out well, and I am happy to say that less than three weeks after learning my old crank was cracked I was able to purchase a suitable replacement for a reasonable amount. As far as I know Michael still has the second crank so if anyone is in need I suggest you reach out to him at: michael.salter at gmail.com. BTW I am installing an AH Spares damper on the crank--perhaps not required but, I think, money well spent. Best--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Apr 22 06:02:21 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 13:02:21 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Message-ID: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish). OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild.going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been "fixed" at some stage with some form of "chemical metal" which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you're in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch.no good. Noisy, wouldn't engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I'd made some beginner's mistake. Refit gearbox.no good. Same Can't recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms... All's well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it's not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it's in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it's 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I'm not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I'm unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question...do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn't got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary..how do I bench test the relay? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Apr 22 07:03:17 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 09:03:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip In-Reply-To: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: In my experience relays are yes/no. No "maybe". On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long > story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at > some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming > loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking > at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine > B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. > But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO > smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s > 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the > whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box > out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the > relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and > out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still > hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Apr 22 07:10:48 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 14:10:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Message-ID: <000a01da94b6$7f5e0dc0$7e1a2940$@alexarevel.plus.com> Should have added to all below ..electrics seem to pass the test which I quote below:- 1. Make sure battery switch is ON and battery is charged. 2. Make sure overdrive dash switch is in OFF position. 3. Turn ignition switch ON (but don?t start the engine). 4. Keep your foot off the throttle. 5. Wiggle the gearshift, making sure you move it fully to the right each time. You should not hear the solenoid actuate. (If you do, see Note 1.) 6. Move overdrive dash switch to ON position. 7. Wiggle the gearshift - you should hear the solenoid engage and disengage with each wiggle. (If you don?t, see Note 2.) 8. Depress the throttle about ? way and hold. Wiggle the gearshift - you should still hear the solenoid engage and disengage with each wiggle. (If you don?t, see Note 3.) 9. Take your foot off the throttle. Move the overdrive dash switch to OFF. Wiggle the gearshift - you should still hear the solenoid engage and disengage with each wiggle. (If you don?t, see Note 4.) 10 Slowly start depressing the throttle while wiggling the gearshift at the same time. You should initially hear the solenoid engage and disengage until the throttle reaches approximately 1/5 open position (workshop manual spec.). Then, while continuing to wiggle, you should not hear the solenoid regardless of the throttle position. (If you do, see Note 5.) If your car passes this test, your overdrive electrical system is OK. If not, the following notes, related to the Steps above, may be helpful. (Test, above, is an abbreviated version of, I think, Bob Poague?s work.) Not thought out by me but used often enough to trust it. Simon You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish) OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms .. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question ..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary .how do I bench test the relay? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Apr 22 08:21:24 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 10:21:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 9:03 a.m. Michael Salter, wrote: > In my experience relays are yes/no. No "maybe". > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long >> story short(ish)? >> >> OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. >> >> Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. >> >> Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. >> >> Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at >> some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming >> loose/apart. >> >> Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc >> >> Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking >> at a 30+ yr old item. >> >> New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. >> >> Gearbox out again. >> >> Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. >> >> Refit gearbox?no good. Same >> >> Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. >> >> Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine >> B&B from AHSpares). >> >> New one did work. >> >> Saga over until yesterday. >> >> Same sort of symptoms?.. >> >> All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. >> But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO >> smell) >> >> Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. >> >> Symptoms reduce at speed. >> >> Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure >> it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice >> -versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. >> >> No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the >> whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box >> out again once, let alone multiple times. >> >> What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure >> ! >> >> One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the >> relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and >> out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still >> hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. >> >> And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? >> >> Simon >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Apr 22 09:26:30 2024 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 08:26:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Agree - I had to re read your note to be sure which clutch you were talking about. If you have the GB cover still on you, could disable the OD by disconnecting the solenoid - probably easier than removing the operating valve. Regarding testing the OD relay, yes as MS says they usually fail positively and usually the operating coil. To bench test: With a 12V supply on W1 and W2 you should hear a clear click for ON and OFF This would prove that the coil is OK Contacts not quite as easy to verify. Same test as above but an ohm meter on lowest scale across C1 and C2 An anologue meter is preferable and you can see if there is any dithering when the contacts close. Operating should be positive and crisp. I would also be suspicious of the TS - they can have some weird failure modes and go out of adjustment, rg Virus-free.www.avg.com <#m_-7026411280735381914_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 7:39?AM Michael Salter wrote: > *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There > are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle > at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch > (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. > Test this a few times to be sure. > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at > fault. > > Step 1 completed. Please report results. > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 9:03 a.m. Michael Salter, > wrote: > >> In my experience relays are yes/no. No "maybe". >> >> On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long >>> story short(ish)? >>> >>> OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. >>> >>> Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. >>> >>> Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. >>> >>> Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at >>> some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming >>> loose/apart. >>> >>> Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc >>> >>> Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking >>> at a 30+ yr old item. >>> >>> New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. >>> >>> Gearbox out again. >>> >>> Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. >>> >>> Refit gearbox?no good. Same >>> >>> Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. >>> >>> Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine >>> B&B from AHSpares). >>> >>> New one did work. >>> >>> Saga over until yesterday. >>> >>> Same sort of symptoms?.. >>> >>> All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. >>> But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO >>> smell) >>> >>> Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. >>> >>> Symptoms reduce at speed. >>> >>> Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure >>> it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice >>> -versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. >>> >>> No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the >>> whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box >>> out again once, let alone multiple times. >>> >>> What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure >>> ! >>> >>> One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can >>> the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in >>> and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit >>> still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. >>> >>> And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? >>> >>> Simon >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Apr 22 10:53:41 2024 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 16:53:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Message-ID: <7da04267-4248-ba55-73ab-a5b387ede708@charter.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MM-test 400psi.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 123019 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: NN-test 450psi.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 229046 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Apr 22 14:13:54 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 21:13:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000501da94f1$9b43ec40$d1cbc4c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Alright?thanks for the replies so far. Still trying to get all my ducks in a row before I pick up the spanners. Next question,,,,solenoids. Do they fail 100% or can they wobble inbetween? Likewise, might give same symptoms. (Any straw worth clutching?) And again, how to bench test a solenoid? Simon From: Roger Grace Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 4:27 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Simon Lachlan ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Agree - I had to re read your note to be sure which clutch you were talking about. If you have the GB cover still on you, could disable the OD by disconnecting the solenoid - probably easier than removing the operating valve. Regarding testing the OD relay, yes as MS says they usually fail positively and usually the operating coil. To bench test: With a 12V supply on W1 and W2 you should hear a clear click for ON and OFF This would prove that the coil is OK Contacts not quite as easy to verify. Same test as above but an ohm meter on lowest scale across C1 and C2 An anologue meter is preferable and you can see if there is any dithering when the contacts close. Operating should be positive and crisp. I would also be suspicious of the TS - they can have some weird failure modes and go out of adjustment, rg Virus-free. www.avg.com On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 7:39?AM Michael Salter > wrote: Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 9:03 a.m. Michael Salter, > wrote: In my experience relays are yes/no. No "maybe". On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD0000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Apr 22 14:58:51 2024 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 13:58:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip In-Reply-To: <000501da94f1$9b43ec40$d1cbc4c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000501da94f1$9b43ec40$d1cbc4c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: First thing to do as per MS is to identify which clutch is slipping. Regarding testing the solenoid, not as simple as the relay. They have 2 coils - a holding and pull in that is disabled when engaged by a small switch. I would suggest leaving it attached to the OD with cover off. Pull the wire off the GB 3/4 switch and feed directly with 12V. The solenoid should move the operating lever positively. Check for full motion. There is supposed to be about 10 thou shaft end float to avoid binding. If you have a dc ammeter then you should see an initial current of around 18A from memory then almost immediately dropping to around 3-4A. It should also drop freely when off. Do check the TS. Good luck rg Virus-free.www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 1:13?PM Simon Lachlan < simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > Alright?thanks for the replies so far. Still trying to get all my ducks in > a row before I pick up the spanners. > > Next question,,,,solenoids. Do they fail 100% or can they wobble > inbetween? Likewise, might give same symptoms. (Any straw worth clutching?) > > And again, how to bench test a solenoid? > > Simon > > > > *From:* Roger Grace > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 4:27 PM > *To:* Michael Salter > *Cc:* Simon Lachlan ; Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > > > Agree - I had to re read your note to be sure which clutch you were > talking about. > > If you have the GB cover still on you, could disable the OD by > disconnecting the solenoid - probably easier than removing the operating > valve. > > Regarding testing the OD relay, yes as MS says they usually fail > positively and usually the operating coil. > > To bench test: > > With a 12V supply on W1 and W2 you should hear a clear click for ON and OFF > > This would prove that the coil is OK > > Contacts not quite as easy to verify. > > Same test as above but an ohm meter on lowest scale across C1 and C2 > > An anologue meter is preferable and you can see if there is any dithering > when the contacts close. Operating should be positive and crisp. > > I would also be suspicious of the TS - they can have some weird failure > modes and go out of adjustment, > > rg > > > > > > > > [image: Image removed by sender.] > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > > > On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 7:39?AM Michael Salter > wrote: > > *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* > > > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There > are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle > at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch > (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. > Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at > fault. > > > > Step 1 completed. Please report results. > > > > > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 9:03 a.m. Michael Salter, > wrote: > > In my experience relays are yes/no. No "maybe". > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long > story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some > stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking > at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine > B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. > But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO > smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s > 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the > whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box > out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the > relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and > out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still > hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD0000.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Apr 22 15:39:51 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 17:39:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip In-Reply-To: <000501da94f1$9b43ec40$d1cbc4c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000501da94f1$9b43ec40$d1cbc4c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Yes the solenoids can cause all sorts of problems. Around the time you last worked on your overdrive OD Spares were having problems with a batch of solenoid as I recall. May want to check with them. If the "pull" coil or points in the solenoid have burned out, usually because the adjustment is done incorrectly, the hold coil will have insufficient power to move the solenoid armature to the "engaged" position consistently. After you have confirmed that the vehicle clutch ( the one on the flywheel) isn't slipping it's time to move onto checking the overdrive. You can eliminate the possibility of problems within the unit by manually engaging overdrive by pulling up on the setting arm while on a road test with the tunnel off (don't get caught up in the driveshaft because they will probably have to put you into the coffin in pieces). If there is no evidence of your "slipping " issue when the unit is manually engaged then start looking into operating issues. Haven't we been through this before? M On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 4:13 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > Alright?thanks for the replies so far. Still trying to get all my ducks in > a row before I pick up the spanners. > > Next question,,,,solenoids. Do they fail 100% or can they wobble > inbetween? Likewise, might give same symptoms. (Any straw worth clutching?) > > And again, how to bench test a solenoid? > > Simon > > > > *From:* Roger Grace > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 4:27 PM > *To:* Michael Salter > *Cc:* Simon Lachlan ; Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > > > Agree - I had to re read your note to be sure which clutch you were > talking about. > > If you have the GB cover still on you, could disable the OD by > disconnecting the solenoid - probably easier than removing the operating > valve. > > Regarding testing the OD relay, yes as MS says they usually fail > positively and usually the operating coil. > > To bench test: > > With a 12V supply on W1 and W2 you should hear a clear click for ON and OFF > > This would prove that the coil is OK > > Contacts not quite as easy to verify. > > Same test as above but an ohm meter on lowest scale across C1 and C2 > > An anologue meter is preferable and you can see if there is any dithering > when the contacts close. Operating should be positive and crisp. > > I would also be suspicious of the TS - they can have some weird failure > modes and go out of adjustment, > > rg > > > > > > > > [image: Image removed by sender.] > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > > > On Mon, Apr 22, 2024 at 7:39?AM Michael Salter > wrote: > > *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* > > > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There > are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle > at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch > (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. > Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at > fault. > > > > Step 1 completed. Please report results. > > > > > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 9:03 a.m. Michael Salter, > wrote: > > In my experience relays are yes/no. No "maybe". > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long > story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some > stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking > at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine > B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. > But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO > smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s > 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the > whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box > out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the > relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and > out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still > hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rcobb at sonic.net Mon Apr 22 17:39:41 2024 From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 16:39:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] emergency brake system query- Message-ID: <9842ac2a-ecc8-4614-9160-251808652b66@sonic.net> BJ8 was fully functional when parked in storage a couple years ago.? Handbrake was engaged. Recently, when preparing the car for "re-activation", upon releasing the handbrake, the cable disengaged at the lever's pivot point, as though the cable/linkages/whatever are binding or frozen. The challenges: I have not been able to find documentation that clearly shows how the brake cable is run, or how any linkages behind the brake backing plates or within the brake drums are configured (which would help direct attention to what may need to be freed-up); if it would help to pull the rear wheels and drums, there is only a 12" clearance next to the left side of the car and maybe 18" on the right side; the car was backed-in and it's not feasible to roll the car out of the storage space, as there is a significant slope, which would limit the option of jacking the rear of the car, while on the slope; I suspect the car would not roll anyway, since the handbrake is functionally engaged. I've jacked the rear up about 14", but that does not give me enough visual information to determine the source of the problem or how it may be corrected. Suggestions, from those who are familiar with how the emergency brake system functions, are solicited. Thanks in advance. Bob From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Apr 22 20:49:30 2024 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 02:49:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] emergency brake system query- Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Apr 22 20:53:19 2024 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2024 22:53:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] emergency brake system query- In-Reply-To: <9842ac2a-ecc8-4614-9160-251808652b66@sonic.net> References: <9842ac2a-ecc8-4614-9160-251808652b66@sonic.net> Message-ID: <00b201da9529$65b242b0$3116c810$@sympatico.ca> Hi Bob, sounds like you are in a bit of a pickle! You did not mention what surface the car is on. If it is concrete or something hard, I'd be inclined to put some wheel dollies under the rear wheels and pull the car out to get more room to work safely. I think that one way or the other you need to get enough room to get the rear wheels off and look at what is going on. Temporarily, if you can access them, remove the clevis pin that hold the cable to the bell-crank located on the top of the right side of the axle, thus disconnecting the cable. I suspect the cable has seized and when you remove a clevis pin, the brakes will free. This wont be easy as with the brakes on, the pins will be tight. One way of the other, you have to disconnect the cable. An extreme measure would be to get some heavy duty cable cutters and cut it, but I think that you should be bale to work it all free once you have access. If the seizure is in the rods going to the brake plates, I would think that with the cable disconnected you could tap on the levers on the rear of the brake plate and release the shoes. Once you have good access to everything I think the problem, be it cable or the bell-crank will become apparent. There is a grease nipple on the cable which is often neglected! Good luck, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of RCobb Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 7:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] emergency brake system query- BJ8 was fully functional when parked in storage a couple years ago. Handbrake was engaged. Recently, when preparing the car for "re-activation", upon releasing the handbrake, the cable disengaged at the lever's pivot point, as though the cable/linkages/whatever are binding or frozen. The challenges: I have not been able to find documentation that clearly shows how the brake cable is run, or how any linkages behind the brake backing plates or within the brake drums are configured (which would help direct attention to what may need to be freed-up); if it would help to pull the rear wheels and drums, there is only a 12" clearance next to the left side of the car and maybe 18" on the right side; the car was backed-in and it's not feasible to roll the car out of the storage space, as there is a significant slope, which would limit the option of jacking the rear of the car, while on the slope; I suspect the car would not roll anyway, since the handbrake is functionally engaged. I've jacked the rear up about 14", but that does not give me enough visual information to determine the source of the problem or how it may be corrected. Suggestions, from those who are familiar with how the emergency brake system functions, are solicited. Thanks in advance. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Apr 23 01:56:53 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2024 08:56:53 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] emergency brake system query- In-Reply-To: <9842ac2a-ecc8-4614-9160-251808652b66@sonic.net> References: <9842ac2a-ecc8-4614-9160-251808652b66@sonic.net> Message-ID: <000001da9553$cf6d6c50$6e4844f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> There's a TV programme here in the UK called "Bangers and Cash". It's about an auction house that specializes in classic cars. Don't know if it's shown outside of the UK. Anyhow........they often turn up at premises where the prospective car for sale is jammed into a tiny garage with its brakes stuck. They occasionally try rocking it but usually resort to winching it out. As soon as the wheels are accessible they whack them with - I think - a nylon headed hammer. Seems to work. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of RCobb Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2024 12:40 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] emergency brake system query- BJ8 was fully functional when parked in storage a couple years ago. Handbrake was engaged. Recently, when preparing the car for "re-activation", upon releasing the handbrake, the cable disengaged at the lever's pivot point, as though the cable/linkages/whatever are binding or frozen. The challenges: I have not been able to find documentation that clearly shows how the brake cable is run, or how any linkages behind the brake backing plates or within the brake drums are configured (which would help direct attention to what may need to be freed-up); if it would help to pull the rear wheels and drums, there is only a 12" clearance next to the left side of the car and maybe 18" on the right side; the car was backed-in and it's not feasible to roll the car out of the storage space, as there is a significant slope, which would limit the option of jacking the rear of the car, while on the slope; I suspect the car would not roll anyway, since the handbrake is functionally engaged. I've jacked the rear up about 14", but that does not give me enough visual information to determine the source of the problem or how it may be corrected. Suggestions, from those who are familiar with how the emergency brake system functions, are solicited. Thanks in advance. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Apr 25 10:29:30 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 17:29:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 24198 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 25 11:00:06 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 10:00:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <5177a466-31b7-4183-9610-d001cd1b93b6@comcast.net> Simon, What have you done to rule out the O/D relay (the one on the scuttle). I've had them go intermittent. Bob On 4/25/2024 9:29 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the > two wires into 3^rd /4^th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down > longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no > slippage at all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at > once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded > and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore > you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel > off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car > up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. > Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi > which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. > Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I > engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD > when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). > Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short > the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that > box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong > volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. > And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always > enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently > ease?!?! > > Thanks, Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > *_Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!_* > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. > (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full > throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it > is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these > operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is > at fault. > > Step 1 completed. Please report results.?MS. > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga > last year. Long story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related > seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been > ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which > was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the > area looking at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm > by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks > Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded > slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me > more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. > Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt > non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the > filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread > restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not > sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone > multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a > miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? > ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to > the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the > switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to > disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 24198 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 25 11:19:18 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 13:19:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into position? M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the > two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down > longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at > all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. > Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre > may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m > convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors > jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey > jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi > which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very > slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a > few times. Which is normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD > when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). > Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the > TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box > out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) > but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of > us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the > manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! > > > > Thanks, Simon > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > > > *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* > > > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There > are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle > at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch > (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. > Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at > fault. > > > > Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. > > > > > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long > story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some > stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking > at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine > B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. > But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO > smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s > 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the > whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box > out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the > relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and > out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still > hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 24198 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 24198 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Apr 25 13:38:32 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 20:38:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? From: Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into position? M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Apr 25 14:16:57 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 21:16:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <5177a466-31b7-4183-9610-d001cd1b93b6@comcast.net> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <5177a466-31b7-4183-9610-d001cd1b93b6@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01da974d$86b84470$9428cd50$@alexarevel.plus.com> I?ve not looked at that yet. Not ruling it out but I?ve a feeling that, even if it had ?gone intermittent?, the OD would jump in & out quite abruptly rather than slip/fade which I?m currently experiencing. But I?ll certainly have a look. The relay is one that I?ve rebuilt?..gutted the old stuff out and swapped in a little modern relay. I?d expect that to be fairly reliable, likewise to (probably?!) fail 100% or work 100%. Next on the list seems to me to be the Throttle Switch which, I suspect, could just about give one a slipping effect. OD clutch? Never done that. Never been there. I?ve pretty well drawn the line at accumulators/pressure issues. Always with help and advice from ?The List? . Could my problem be OD clutch slip? How do I diagnose that and how do I get myself in a position where I know it?s the OD clutch and I know that it?s sensible to take the box out and drive it up to ODSpares one (very) early morning? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Simon, What have you done to rule out the O/D relay (the one on the scuttle). I've had them go intermittent. Bob On 4/25/2024 9:29 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 24198 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 25 16:26:38 2024 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 18:26:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <000e01da974d$86b84470$9428cd50$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <5177a466-31b7-4183-9610-d001cd1b93b6@comcast.net> <000e01da974d$86b84470$9428cd50$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <013d01da975f$a3f460c0$ebdd2240$@sympatico.ca> Simon, re: the throttle switch, just short it out by putting a wire across the two terminals. Mine was shorted out when I bought my BT7 because the PO did not like it. I re-connected (or dis-connected the short to be accurate) and came to the same conclusion. Mine is now permanently shorted out of the circuit by choice ? personal preference. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 4:17 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! I?ve not looked at that yet. Not ruling it out but I?ve a feeling that, even if it had ?gone intermittent?, the OD would jump in & out quite abruptly rather than slip/fade which I?m currently experiencing. But I?ll certainly have a look. The relay is one that I?ve rebuilt?..gutted the old stuff out and swapped in a little modern relay. I?d expect that to be fairly reliable, likewise to (probably?!) fail 100% or work 100%. Next on the list seems to me to be the Throttle Switch which, I suspect, could just about give one a slipping effect. OD clutch? Never done that. Never been there. I?ve pretty well drawn the line at accumulators/pressure issues. Always with help and advice from ?The List? . Could my problem be OD clutch slip? How do I diagnose that and how do I get myself in a position where I know it?s the OD clutch and I know that it?s sensible to take the box out and drive it up to ODSpares one (very) early morning? Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:00 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Simon, What have you done to rule out the O/D relay (the one on the scuttle). I've had them go intermittent. Bob On 4/25/2024 9:29 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 24198 bytes Desc: not available URL: From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net Thu Apr 25 16:49:40 2024 From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 17:49:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices Message-ID: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG antivirus software. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 25 17:13:43 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 19:13:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing the slippage. >From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is *not* energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual pressure. The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not blocked. Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is *not * energized. M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > > > Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that > was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve > rod cap and washer back into position? > > > > M > > > > > > > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the > two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down > longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at > all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. > Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre > may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m > convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors > jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey > jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi > which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very > slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a > few times. Which is normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD > when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). > Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the > TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box > out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) > but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of > us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the > manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! > > > > Thanks, Simon > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > > > *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* > > > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There > are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle > at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch > (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. > Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at > fault. > > > > Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. > > > > > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long > story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some > stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking > at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine > B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. > But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO > smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s > 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the > whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box > out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the > relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and > out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still > hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p.cquinn at outlook.com Thu Apr 25 17:50:21 2024 From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 23:50:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: G'day Currently in Sydney Australia we are paying the equivalent of US$7.80 per US gallon. It's happening right around the world, not just California and the US. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 8:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller [https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png] Virus-free.www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 25 21:04:11 2024 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 23:04:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD4099.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Apr 25 21:26:26 2024 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2024 20:26:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: I've never seen 6.50 gas in San Diego except at a few Shell stations. I pay $5.49 for premium by looking for it, and maybe 20 cents less at Indian Reservations where I guess they don't collect some state taxes. I guess Shell offers so many discounts they have to start high. -Roland > > On Apr 25, 2024 at 8:12 PM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: > > > > > For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. > > > > > > > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices > > > > > > > > > > How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? > > > > Herb Miller > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD4099.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Thu Apr 25 21:40:36 2024 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 03:40:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: <103332901.4053792.1714102836426@mail.yahoo.com> The evening news in L. A. always goes to a Standard station down town to do their OMG gas price report where the price always super high. Probably $7.50 or so tonight. It's like after the earth quake, they take picture in front of the one house that fell down not all the rest that are perfectly fine. I live a couple of miles from that station and my corner Arco station was $5.20 yesterday. We are dealing with air quality here and require a special blend of gas for summer time and that costs a little more and refineries shut down to make the change over that also causes a short term spike in price due to supply issues. There is also a dollar something tax on gas? used to improve air quality awareness and encourage folks not to waste gas. On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 04:20:52 PM PDT, Herb Miller via Healeys wrote: How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 ?per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller | | Virus-free.www.avg.com | _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyray at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 25 21:50:27 2024 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 11:50:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for > premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Herb > Miller via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices > > > > How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? > > Herb Miller > > > > [image: Image removed by sender.] > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD4099.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 02:42:11 2024 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 09:42:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Could it be as simple as the rubber buffer below the solenoid plunger going rotten and disappeared? This could also apply to adjustable metal stop on the other model. The solenoid will only work reliably if the plunger is well up into the solenoid. If too low there is insufficient magnetic circuit to reliably pull the plunger in. I have had this where the overdrive does not always engage and sometimes would disengage without a reason On Fri, 26 Apr 2024 at 00:49, Michael Salter wrote: > Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor > the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing > the slippage. > From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is *not* > energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that > for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive > operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. > This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual > pressure. > The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the > bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not > blocked. > Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball > can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the > operating valve is *not * energized. > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > >> Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! >> >> >> >> Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that >> was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve >> rod cap and washer back into position? >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < >> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: >> >> So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). >> >> 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the >> two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down >> longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at >> all. >> 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at >> once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the >> tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as >> I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little >> scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until >> the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. >> 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi >> which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very >> slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a >> few times. Which is normal I think? >> 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD >> when activated. >> >> So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? >> >> I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). >> Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the >> TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. >> >> Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that >> box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) >> but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of >> us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the >> manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! >> >> >> >> Thanks, Simon >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip >> >> >> >> *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* >> >> >> >> First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the >> overdrive is causing the slippage. >> >> To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly >> misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. >> >> To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. >> (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). >> >> Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle >> at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch >> (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. >> Test this a few times to be sure. >> >> If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at >> fault. >> >> >> >> Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long >> story short(ish)? >> >> OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. >> >> Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. >> >> Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. >> >> Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at >> some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. >> >> Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc >> >> Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking >> at a 30+ yr old item. >> >> New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. >> >> Gearbox out again. >> >> Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. >> >> Refit gearbox?no good. Same >> >> Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. >> >> Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine >> B&B from AHSpares). >> >> New one did work. >> >> Saga over until yesterday. >> >> Same sort of symptoms?.. >> >> All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. >> But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO >> smell) >> >> Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. >> >> Symptoms reduce at speed. >> >> Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure >> it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or >> vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. >> >> No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the >> whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box >> out again once, let alone multiple times. >> >> What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! >> >> One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the >> relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and >> out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still >> hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. >> >> And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? >> >> Simon >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ryan at jimryan.com Fri Apr 26 05:22:19 2024 From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 07:22:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist wrote: > That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for >> premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Herb >> Miller via Healeys >> *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM >> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices >> >> >> >> How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? >> >> Herb Miller >> >> >> >> [image: Image removed by sender.] >> >> >> Virus-free.www.avg.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com > > -- Jim Ryan ???? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD4099.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Apr 26 05:24:36 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 12:24:36 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <001801da97cc$52b58000$f8208000$@alexarevel.plus.com> Hi, Thanks for this. Not sure I understand fully. Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those waters. I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help here? The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon it drops to zero. Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable access and the forecast is grim for the next week. Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM To: Simon Lachlan Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing the slippage. >From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is not energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual pressure. The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not blocked. Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is not energized. M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? From: Michael Salter > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into position? M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 05:51:22 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 07:51:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <001801da97cc$52b58000$f8208000$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> <001801da97cc$52b58000$f8208000$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" Fair question. Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone clutch. The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage " if they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the case here. The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage when the overdrive was disabled. You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing the overdrive operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, < simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > Hi, Thanks for this. > > Not sure I understand fully. > > Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the > car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than > the nut. And got 500+ psi. > > What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not > arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that > the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by > something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s > probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those > waters. > > > > I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but > didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute > could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then > WD40?.. > > > > After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose > aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to > disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help > here? > > > > The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, > where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. > > Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there > until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon > it drops to zero. > > > > Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable > access and the forecast is grim for the next week. > > > > Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, > > Simon > > > > > > > > > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > > > Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor > the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing > the slippage. > > From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is *not* > energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that > for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive > operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. > > This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual > pressure. > > The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the > bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not > blocked. > > Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball > can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the > operating valve is *not * energized. > > > > M > > > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > > Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > > > Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that > was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve > rod cap and washer back into position? > > > > M > > > > > > > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the > two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down > longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at > all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. > Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre > may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m > convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors > jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey > jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi > which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very > slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a > few times. Which is normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD > when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). > Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the > TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box > out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) > but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of > us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the > manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! > > > > Thanks, Simon > > > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > > > *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* > > > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the > overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly > misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There > are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle > at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch > (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. > Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at > fault. > > > > Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. > > > > > > > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long > story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some > stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking > at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine > B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. > But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO > smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s > 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the > whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box > out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the > relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and > out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still > hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20240426_074704.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 5673567 bytes Desc: not available URL: From britishauto at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 05:56:45 2024 From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 07:56:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the price was $3.39. That never happens, it's always more expensive thru PA and NY. On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan wrote: > I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > >> That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! >> >> On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >>> For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for >>> premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Herb >>> Miller via Healeys >>> *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices >>> >>> >>> >>> How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? >>> >>> Herb Miller >>> >>> >>> >>> [image: Image removed by sender.] >>> >>> >>> Virus-free.www.avg.com >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com >> >> > > -- > > Jim Ryan > > ???? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD4099.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 10:20:45 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 09:20:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: <000001da94ac$ef5baf60$ce130e20$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000401da972d$c08560e0$419022a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <000901da9748$28e90410$7abb0c30$@alexarevel.plus.com> <001801da97cc$52b58000$f8208000$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Spitballing ... I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on it when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I did the overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK didn't slip--and I reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily available I /might/ have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, but all I could find was a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need replacement, whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd known about it). All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the O/D has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to the bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's car's symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and more consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to really lug the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during driving. * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? bs On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" > > ?Fair question. > Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where > "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone > clutch. > The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no > go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". > The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage > " if they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the > case here. > > The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage > when the overdrive was disabled. > You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is > enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. > > Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine > torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has > returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. > I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the > overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing > the overdrive operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. > Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. > M > > On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > Hi, Thanks for this. > > Not sure I understand fully. > > Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out > of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the > gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. > > What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not > arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was > thinking that the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being > interfered with by something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or > throttle switch. That?s probably wishful thinking as I really > don?t want to be swimming in those waters. > > I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod > but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as > something minute could have been inside and been washed away by > the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. > > After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod > whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow > the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could > that rod be any help here? > > The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the > rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. > > Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays > there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few > times whereupon it drops to zero. > > Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to > enable access and the forecast is grim for the next week. > > Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the > flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive > condition) are producing the slippage. > > From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is > *_not_* energized?the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone > clutch and that for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its > way into the overdrive operating cylinders even when the overdrive > operating valve is closed. > > This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual > pressure. > > The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that > the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod > is not blocked. > > Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating > valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on > its seat when the operating valve is *_not _*?energized. > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > Question? ... when you got home and did the pressure test I > presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top > hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into > position? > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, > below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, > disconnected the two wires into 3^rd /4^th switch. > Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish > hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage > at all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a > pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the > inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a > write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with > this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the > wheel off without the little scissors jack which I > carry to get the car up the first few inches until the > Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at > 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 > across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was > off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a > few times. Which is normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and > engages the OD when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle > Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why > wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes > it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having > to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp > and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all > that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m > not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines > from the manual which I reproduce, below. ?Gently ease?!?! > > Thanks, Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > *_Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!_* > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the > flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a > badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce > similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve > completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely > definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use > full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a > few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is > causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this > a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the > overdrive clutch is at fault. > > Step 1 completed. Please report results.?MS. > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via > Healeys, wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and > clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil > temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator > and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to > have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of > ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing > etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while > you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t > engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s > mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and > enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. > (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the > dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the > same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But > NO smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very > clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped > up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I > dread restarting the whole bloody process all over > again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out > again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely > to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either work or > not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and > off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? > I think that could happen if the switch is off but > the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage > from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 26 11:03:03 2024 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 17:03:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: I-cone clutch.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1176210 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: II-mount GB to OD.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 282626 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Apr 26 11:15:20 2024 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 17:15:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 11:16:04 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 10:16:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Y'all missing OP's point here: This isn't a gas price survey--and I doubt Herb really gives a shit about Californians' suffering--it's just (yet another) underhanded dig at California (note he shows no concerns for Canadians, who have been paying even higher prices for decades, and they can only buy liters, which are smaller than gallons). Gas prices are generally higher in the East and West Coasts and, as others have noted $7.50/gal is an outlier that happens on occasion and usually at more remote locations (there's a station on Highway 1 way north of SF that gets in the news with extreme pricing; it's a slog to get tankers up there). We 'from California' may grumble a bit but, for the most part we are delighted at the visible improvement in our air quality over the last few decades. Having spent my entire 70+ years in CA I can vouch for its improved cleanliness and breathe-ability (sorry, Bakersfield) and, since I generally like to breathe I appreciate it. We Californians find ways to deal with inconveniences; many have 'gone electric,' the rest of us just try to make the best use of whatever petroleum products we need to use. Note I have 4 cars (2 Healeys), a pickup, two old farm tractors, a JD Gator, a zero-turn, rototiller, edger and 3 2-stroke chainsaws, which will be banned in a couple years but I can all but build one from scratch from readily available parts online. We used to burn our orchard trimmings, which severely impacted air quality in the Central Valley, but most now pay more to have them chipped and hauled off, even though burning is still allowed (we Californians are kinda goofy, to be sure). We do appreciate your concern, Herb. Now, if I could just get 93-octane for my Mustang ... Bob On 4/26/2024 4:56 AM, Jake V wrote: > Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. > Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the price was > $3.39. That never happens, it's always more expensive thru PA and NY. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan wrote: > > I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: > > For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, > $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario.? Absolute robbery. > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf > Of *Herb Miller via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices > > How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 ?per > gallon of gas. ? > > Herb Miller > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 11:34:24 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 10:34:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Registry Message-ID: Just got my latest issue of /Austin-Healey Magazine/--gorgeous as always--with the announcement that the AHCUSA has assumed stewardship of the renowned 100M Registry. Whether you think 100M's are 'special' or not, enough potential buyers do--with commensurate prices--and to have a resource to document and verify them is extremely valuable to owners and would-be owners. Congrats to all involved (Hi Jean!). I'm sure it was a real effort, and it's in good hands. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 12:16:43 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 11:16:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I lost the plot (not unusual): Have we determined, for sure, that the problem is 'slippage,' which would most likely be due to wear in the O/D cone clutch? Or have we determined that Simon's O/D is 'dropping out' which, to my thinking, would be caused by the 8 strong springs overcoming hydraulic pressure (and causing the brake ring to slip or disengage, no?). On 4/26/2024 10:03 AM, Hank Leach wrote: > Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good > condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the cone > clutch is pushed forward in the box. When OD is *not required* the > solenoid is inactive and the 8 springs in the unit have to keep the > cone clutch in the rearward or in direct drive position. > These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage and > hold the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic > influence-which should be draining at this point..However if the > springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted > on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that > procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid > without slipping. > The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, or > easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive are > those 8 springs and their pressure. > -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox > needs to come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring fit-at > that time I would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from Moss) as a > routine repair. (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank > > From: "Bob Spidell" > To: > Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > Spitballing ... > > I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on > it when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I > did the overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK > didn't slip--and I reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily > available I /might/ have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, > but all I could find was a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied > they didn't often need replacement, whereas known wear items like the > accumulator are offered by several vendors (I would have installed one > with an O-ring if I'd known about it). > > All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the > O/D has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to > the bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's > car's symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and > more consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to > really lug the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch > is going to slip it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). > There's also a (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D > pressure fluctuates during driving. > > > * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? > > bs > > > > On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" > ?Fair question. > Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places > where "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the > overdrive's cone clutch. > The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a > go/no go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". > The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce > "slippage " if they are in really bad condition but I presume that > isn't the case here. > The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage > when the overdrive was disabled. > You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is > enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. > Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine > torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has > returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. > I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the > overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly > installing the overdrive operating valve resulted in the slippage > issue returning. > Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. > M > > On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > Hi, Thanks for this. > > Not sure I understand fully. > > Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve > out of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put > in the gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. > > What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. > Not arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I > was thinking that the function of the OD seems OK and that > it?s being interfered with by something in its > circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s probably > wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in > those waters. > > I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the > rod but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as > something minute could have been inside and been washed away > by the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. > > After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod > whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to > allow the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. > Could that rod be any help here? > > The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of > the rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. > > Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and > stays there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the > solenoid a few times whereupon it drops to zero. > > Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to > enable access and the forecast is grim for the next week. > > Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the > flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive > condition) are producing the slippage. > > From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive > solenoid is *_not_* energized?the slippage is occurring at the > overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason hydraulic > pressure is finding its way into the overdrive operating > cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. > > This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or > residual pressure. > > The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking > that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve > push rod is not blocked. > > Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the > operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball > is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is *_not > _*?energized. > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > Question? ... when you got home and did the pressure test > I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the > "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back > into position? > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his > email, below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, > disconnected the two wires into 3^rd /4^th switch. > Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish > hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no > slippage at all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a > pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine > the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a > write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with > this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the > wheel off without the little scissors jack which I > carry to get the car up the first few inches until > the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. > Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. > Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very > slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as > I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is > normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and > engages the OD when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle > Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and > why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if > that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread > having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very > adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, > regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, > like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve > always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I > reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! > > Thanks, Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip > > *_Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!_* > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the > flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive > as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can > produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating > valve completely. (There are other ways but this is > absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to > use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) > for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the > flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating > conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the > overdrive clutch is at fault. > > Step 1 completed. Please report results.?MS. > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan > via Healeys, wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive and > clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on oil > temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as > accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out > to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some > form of ?chemical metal? which was coming > loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new > housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while > you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t > engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some > beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count > and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was > defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from > AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the > dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite > the same. Reminds me more of a slipping > clutch. (But NO smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks > very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt > non-detergent topped up with 30wt > non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident > in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, > I dread restarting the whole bloody process > all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking > the box out again once, let alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m > unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either > work or not work? ie, can the relay hover > between on and off which might lead to the OD > coming in and out? I think that could happen > if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t > got the message to disengage from the bulkhead > switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the > relay? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Apr 26 12:35:09 2024 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 18:35:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: One more problem with the increase in fuel prices is the pumps shut off at $99.99. My Audi Q5 takes a bit more so I need to reinsert my credit card. Filling the Healey is probably about $90. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:11?AM, Bob Spidell wrote: ? Y'all missing OP's point here: This isn't a gas price survey--and I doubt Herb really gives a shit about Californians' suffering--it's just (yet another) underhanded dig at California (note he shows no concerns for Canadians, who have been paying even higher prices for decades, and they can only buy liters, which are smaller than gallons). Gas prices are generally higher in the East and West Coasts and, as others have noted $7.50/gal is an outlier that happens on occasion and usually at more remote locations (there's a station on Highway 1 way north of SF that gets in the news with extreme pricing; it's a slog to get tankers up there). We 'from California' may grumble a bit but, for the most part we are delighted at the visible improvement in our air quality over the last few decades. Having spent my entire 70+ years in CA I can vouch for its improved cleanliness and breathe-ability (sorry, Bakersfield) and, since I generally like to breathe I appreciate it. We Californians find ways to deal with inconveniences; many have 'gone electric,' the rest of us just try to make the best use of whatever petroleum products we need to use. Note I have 4 cars (2 Healeys), a pickup, two old farm tractors, a JD Gator, a zero-turn, rototiller, edger and 3 2-stroke chainsaws, which will be banned in a couple years but I can all but build one from scratch from readily available parts online. We used to burn our orchard trimmings, which severely impacted air quality in the Central Valley, but most now pay more to have them chipped and hauled off, even though burning is still allowed (we Californians are kinda goofy, to be sure). We do appreciate your concern, Herb. Now, if I could just get 93-octane for my Mustang ... Bob On 4/26/2024 4:56 AM, Jake V wrote: Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the price was $3.39. That never happens, it's always more expensive thru PA and NY. On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan > wrote: I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 12:41:34 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 11:41:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Try another station. On 4/26/2024 11:35 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > One more problem with the increase in fuel prices is the pumps shut > off at $99.99. My Audi Q5 takes a bit more so I need to reinsert my > credit card. Filling the Healey is probably about $90. > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:11?AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> ? Y'all missing OP's point here: This isn't a gas price survey--and I >> doubt Herb really gives a shit about Californians' suffering--it's >> just (yet another) underhanded dig at California (note he shows no >> concerns for Canadians, who have been paying even higher prices for >> decades, and they can only buy liters, which are smaller than >> gallons). Gas prices are generally higher in the East and West Coasts >> and, as others have noted $7.50/gal is an outlier that happens on >> occasion and usually at more remote locations (there's a station on >> Highway 1 way north of SF that gets in the news with extreme pricing; >> it's a slog to get tankers up there). >> >> We 'from California' may grumble a bit but, for the most part we are >> delighted at the visible improvement in our air quality over the last >> few decades. Having spent my entire 70+ years in CA I can vouch for >> its improved cleanliness and breathe-ability (sorry, Bakersfield) >> and, since I generally like to breathe I appreciate it. We >> Californians find ways to deal with inconveniences; many have 'gone >> electric,' the rest of us just try to make the best use of whatever >> petroleum products we need to use. Note I have 4 cars (2 Healeys), a >> pickup, two old farm tractors, a JD Gator, a zero-turn, rototiller, >> edger and 3 2-stroke chainsaws, which will be banned in a couple >> years but I can all but build one from scratch from readily available >> parts online. We used to burn our orchard trimmings, which severely >> impacted air quality in the Central Valley, but most now pay more to >> have them chipped and hauled off, even though burning is still >> allowed (we Californians are kinda goofy, to be sure). >> >> We do appreciate your concern, Herb. Now, if I could just get >> 93-octane for my Mustang ... >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 4/26/2024 4:56 AM, Jake V wrote: >>> Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. >>> Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the price was >>> $3.39. That never happens, it's always more expensive thru PA and NY. >>> >>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan wrote: >>> >>> I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. >>> >>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist >>> wrote: >>> >>> That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! >>> >>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys >>> wrote: >>> >>> For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for >>> regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario.? Absolute >>> robbery. >>> >>> *From:*Healeys *On >>> Behalf Of *Herb Miller via Healeys >>> *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM >>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices >>> >>> How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 ?per >>> gallon of gas. ? >>> >>> Herb Miller >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 250530 bytes Desc: not available URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Fri Apr 26 12:56:09 2024 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 19:56:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Here in the UK the best I have locally to where I live is roughly $6.76/gallon of E10 (?1.43/litre of E10), which is what I fill my cars on as standard (standard UK fuel) - if I've got my conversions right to US gallons. That was the price this morning :-) Peter On 26/04/2024 12:56, Jake V wrote: > Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. > Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the price was $3.39. > That never happens, it's always more expensive thru PA and NY. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan > wrote: > > I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > > wrote: > > For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, > $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario.? Absolute robbery. ____ > > __ __ > > *From:*Healeys > *On Behalf Of *Herb > Miller via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices____ > > __ __ > > How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 ?per gallon > of gas. ? ____ > > Herb Miller____ > > __ __ > > Image removed by sender. > ____ > > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > ____ > > __ __ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ryan at jimryan.com > > > > > -- > > Jim Ryan____ > > ???? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 13:02:26 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 15:02:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: With all due respects Hank you have this backwards. .*However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid without slipping*. If the springs are installed incorrectly as in even one of them sitting on top on the little posts, or even one long spring where a short is meant to be, the unit will be solidly locked in "normal" i.e. non overdrive as there never going to be enough hydraulic pressure to move a spring beyond "coil bound". Don't ask me how I know ? M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 1:07 p.m. Hank Leach via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good > condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the cone clutch > is pushed forward in the box. When OD is *not required* the solenoid is > inactive and the 8 springs in the unit have to keep the cone clutch in the > rearward or in direct drive position. > These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage and hold > the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic influence-which > should be draining at this point..However if the springs are misinstalled > in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly > or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not > function to keep direct drive solid without slipping. > The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, or > easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive are those 8 > springs and their pressure. > -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox needs to > come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring fit-at that time I > would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from Moss) as a routine repair. > (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank > > From: "Bob Spidell" > To: > Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > Spitballing ... > > I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on it > when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I did the > overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK didn't slip--and I > reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily available I *might* > have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, but all I could find was > a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need > replacement, whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by > several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd known > about it). > > All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the O/D > has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to the > bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's car's > symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and more > consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to really lug > the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip > it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a > (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during > driving. > > > * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? > > bs > > > > On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" > > Fair question. > Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where > "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone clutch. > The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no go > arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". > The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage " if > they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the case here. > > The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage when > the overdrive was disabled. > You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is enabled > so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. > > Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine torque > on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has returned now > that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. > I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the overdrive > valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing the overdrive > operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. > Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. > M > > On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > >> Hi, Thanks for this. >> >> Not sure I understand fully. >> >> Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the >> car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than >> the nut. And got 500+ psi. >> >> What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not >> arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that >> the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by >> something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s >> probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those >> waters. >> >> >> >> I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but >> didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute >> could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then >> WD40?.. >> >> >> >> After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose >> aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to >> disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help >> here? >> >> >> >> The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, >> where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. >> >> Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there >> until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon >> it drops to zero. >> >> >> >> Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable >> access and the forecast is grim for the next week. >> >> >> >> Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! >> >> >> >> Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor >> the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing >> the slippage. >> >> From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is *not* >> energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that >> for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive >> operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. >> >> This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual >> pressure. >> >> The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the >> bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not >> blocked. >> >> Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve >> ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when >> the operating valve is *not * energized. >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> >> On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < >> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: >> >> Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! >> >> >> >> Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that >> was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve >> rod cap and washer back into position? >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < >> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: >> >> So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). >> >> 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the >> two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down >> longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at >> all. >> 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at >> once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the >> tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as >> I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little >> scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until >> the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. >> 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi >> which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very >> slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a >> few times. Which is normal I think? >> 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD >> when activated. >> >> So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? >> >> I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). >> Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the >> TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. >> >> Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that >> box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) >> but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of >> us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the >> manual which I reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! >> >> >> >> Thanks, Simon >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip >> >> >> >> *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* >> >> >> >> First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the >> overdrive is causing the slippage. >> >> To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly >> misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. >> >> To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. >> (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). >> >> Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle >> at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch >> (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. >> Test this a few times to be sure. >> >> If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at >> fault. >> >> >> >> Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long >> story short(ish)? >> >> OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. >> >> Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. >> >> Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. >> >> Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at >> some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. >> >> Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc >> >> Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking >> at a 30+ yr old item. >> >> New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. >> >> Gearbox out again. >> >> Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. >> >> Refit gearbox?no good. Same >> >> Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. >> >> Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine >> B&B from AHSpares). >> >> New one did work. >> >> Saga over until yesterday. >> >> Same sort of symptoms?.. >> >> All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. >> But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO >> smell) >> >> Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. >> >> Symptoms reduce at speed. >> >> Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure >> it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or >> vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. >> >> No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the >> whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box >> out again once, let alone multiple times. >> >> What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! >> >> One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the >> relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and >> out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still >> hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. >> >> And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? >> >> Simon >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 14:31:00 2024 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 13:31:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: <08e001da9818$a75714b0$f6053e10$@gmail.com> We haven't seen anything like that here in the US west. I paid about $4.79 this week for premium. When we were in Europe last summer, we were reminded just how good we have it here in the US, as the price of gas varied from the equivalent of US$8-10.00 per gallon. Attached is a picture from one of our early gas stops showing 28 liters to cost 691 Kroner (7.44 gallons to cost $62.69). [using today's exchange rate, which is similar to then.]. This was an event repeated about daily, as we drove ~3875km / 2407 miles while there. ----------------------------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 4:50 PM To: Herb Miller ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices G'day Currently in Sydney Australia we are paying the equivalent of US$7.80 per US gallon. It's happening right around the world, not just California and the US. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 8:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Dave_122516.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 648696 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 14:34:02 2024 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 13:34:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <090701da9819$1373ee20$3a5bca60$@gmail.com> I don?t know about a Canadian Carbon Tax, but the air in southern California sure is a LOT cleaner than it once was!! ----------------------------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Alan Seigrist Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 8:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 14:50:16 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 16:50:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well ... here's where I believe we are so far. Presuming that Simon completed the "full torque" test, with the overdrive hydraulic system totally disabled correctly, we have confirmed that neither the flywheel clutch nor the overdrive cone clutch slip to produce the slippage issue that he is chasing. If the weather improves and Simon can do another road test now that he has reinstalled the overdrive operating valve *and * the slippage returns we can be fairly confident that the slippage issue is related to the overdrive hydraulic system. Simon has reported that the pump produces over 500 p.s.i. which in my experience is quite adequate for the overdrive to operate without slippage.. My bet is that either the operating pistons are not receiving that 500 p.s.i. when the valve is opened by the solenoid or something, perhaps an incorrectly installed spring or 2 or badly leaking piston seals is preventing the clutch from travelling to the "engaged" position. M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 4:05 p.m. Bob Spidell, wrote: > I lost the plot (not unusual): Have we determined, for sure, that the > problem is 'slippage,' which would most likely be due to wear in the O/D > cone clutch? Or have we determined that Simon's O/D is 'dropping out' > which, to my thinking, would be caused by the 8 strong springs overcoming > hydraulic pressure (and causing the brake ring to slip or disengage, no?). > > > On 4/26/2024 10:03 AM, Hank Leach wrote: > > Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good > condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the cone clutch > is pushed forward in the box. When OD is *not required* the solenoid is > inactive and the 8 springs in the unit have to keep the cone clutch in the > rearward or in direct drive position. > These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage and hold > the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic influence-which > should be draining at this point..However if the springs are misinstalled > in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly > or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not > function to keep direct drive solid without slipping. > The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, or > easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive are those 8 > springs and their pressure. > -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox needs to > come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring fit-at that time I > would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from Moss) as a routine repair. > (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank > > From: "Bob Spidell" > To: > Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > Spitballing ... > > I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on it > when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I did the > overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK didn't slip--and I > reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily available I *might* > have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, but all I could find was > a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need > replacement, whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by > several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd known > about it). > > All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the O/D > has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to the > bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's car's > symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and more > consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to really lug > the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip > it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a > (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during > driving. > > > * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? > > bs > > > > On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" > > Fair question. > Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where > "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone clutch. > The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no go > arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". > The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage " if > they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the case here. > > The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage when > the overdrive was disabled. > You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is enabled > so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. > > Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine torque > on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has returned now > that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. > I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the overdrive > valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing the overdrive > operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. > Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. > M > > On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > >> Hi, Thanks for this. >> >> Not sure I understand fully. >> >> Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the >> car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than >> the nut. And got 500+ psi. >> >> What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not >> arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that >> the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by >> something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s >> probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those >> waters. >> >> >> >> I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but >> didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute >> could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then >> WD40?.. >> >> >> >> After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose >> aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to >> disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help >> here? >> >> >> >> The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, >> where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. >> >> Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there >> until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon >> it drops to zero. >> >> >> >> Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable >> access and the forecast is grim for the next week. >> >> >> >> Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! >> >> >> >> Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor >> the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing >> the slippage. >> >> From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is *not* >> energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that >> for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive >> operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. >> >> This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual >> pressure. >> >> The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the >> bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not >> blocked. >> >> Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve >> ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when >> the operating valve is *not * energized. >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> >> On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < >> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: >> >> Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! >> >> >> >> Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that >> was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve >> rod cap and washer back into position? >> >> >> >> M >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, < >> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: >> >> So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). >> >> 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the >> two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down >> longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at >> all. >> 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at >> once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the >> tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as >> I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little >> scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until >> the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. >> 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi >> which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very >> slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a >> few times. Which is normal I think? >> 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD >> when activated. >> >> So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? >> >> I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). >> Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the >> TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. >> >> Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that >> box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) >> but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of >> us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the >> manual which I reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! >> >> >> >> Thanks, Simon >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Salter >> *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM >> *To:* Simon Lachlan >> *Cc:* Healeys >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip >> >> >> >> *Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!* >> >> >> >> First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the >> overdrive is causing the slippage. >> >> To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly >> misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. >> >> To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. >> (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). >> >> Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle >> at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch >> (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. >> Test this a few times to be sure. >> >> If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at >> fault. >> >> >> >> Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < >> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long >> story short(ish)? >> >> OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. >> >> Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. >> >> Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. >> >> Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at >> some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. >> >> Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc >> >> Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking >> at a 30+ yr old item. >> >> New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. >> >> Gearbox out again. >> >> Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. >> >> Refit gearbox?no good. Same >> >> Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. >> >> Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine >> B&B from AHSpares). >> >> New one did work. >> >> Saga over until yesterday. >> >> Same sort of symptoms?.. >> >> All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. >> But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO >> smell) >> >> Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. >> >> Symptoms reduce at speed. >> >> Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure >> it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or >> vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. >> >> No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the >> whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box >> out again once, let alone multiple times. >> >> What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! >> >> One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the >> relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and >> out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still >> hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. >> >> And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? >> >> Simon >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Apr 26 15:09:58 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 22:09:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501da981e$19b4c890$4d1e59b0$@alexarevel.plus.com> I?ve determined this much:- After, say, 5 miles the car started slipping in/out of OD. It was a slower in/out than one would obtain with the dashboard switch. Sort of slipping in/out. Not ?dropping out? so far as I can determine. Per Michael?s advice, I removed the operating valve and charged up/down hills and along a Motorway. No slippage. At all. I concluded that the clutch on the flywheel was not slipping. (TG, as it?s practically brand new). I then replaced the all the valve components under a gauge, jacked the car up/wheels off the ground and spun up the engine..into gear and switched on the OD. A steady 500psi which remained steady with the engine off until I engaged/disengaged the OD a few times. Which, from memory, is what one would expect. At this stage I cleaned out the rod. No dirt detected in little hole but could easily miss a flake of paint or a piece of swarf?? The solenoid makes a healthy click and visibly lifts the lever, say, ??. Appears(!) healthy. OD seems to go in and out as it should and not slip but wheels are off the ground so not a fair test for slippage. The whole OD was rebuilt, by OD spares about 15 years ago since when it?s had a fairly relaxed time and about 15,000 miles. Very seldom more than 80mph and usually cruising at 65mph on Motorway. The front, pump end, was rebuilt by ODSpares in late 2021. Car has a 28% OD and a 3:54 diff so 65mph is fairly relaxed rev wise. Have not delved into Throttle Switch, Relay or Solenoid yet. Will do so, in that order, when weather permits test drives. Thank you everyone for your help and attention in this matter, Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 7:17 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! I lost the plot (not unusual): Have we determined, for sure, that the problem is 'slippage,' which would most likely be due to wear in the O/D cone clutch? Or have we determined that Simon's O/D is 'dropping out' which, to my thinking, would be caused by the 8 strong springs overcoming hydraulic pressure (and causing the brake ring to slip or disengage, no?). On 4/26/2024 10:03 AM, Hank Leach wrote: Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the cone clutch is pushed forward in the box. When OD is not required the solenoid is inactive and the 8 springs in the unit have to keep the cone clutch in the rearward or in direct drive position. These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage and hold the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic influence-which should be draining at this point..However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid without slipping. The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, or easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive are those 8 springs and their pressure. -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox needs to come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring fit-at that time I would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from Moss) as a routine repair. (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank From: "Bob Spidell" To: Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Spitballing ... I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on it when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I did the overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK didn't slip--and I reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily available I might have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, but all I could find was a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need replacement, whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd known about it). All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the O/D has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to the bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's car's symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and more consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to really lug the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during driving. * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? bs On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" Fair question. Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone clutch. The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage " if they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the case here. The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage when the overdrive was disabled. You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing the overdrive operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Hi, Thanks for this. Not sure I understand fully. Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those waters. I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help here? The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon it drops to zero. Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable access and the forecast is grim for the next week. Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing the slippage. >From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is not energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual pressure. The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not blocked. Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is not energized. M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? From: Michael Salter > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into position? M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri Apr 26 16:38:49 2024 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 22:38:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Message-ID: Michael, I actually got the springs reversed on my last rebuild. OD engaged when I bench tested it, so I thought it was good. In the car, OD would engage and hold until a load was applied. It happily engaged with the car on jack stands and while driving downhill or on level ground, but the instant you tried to accelerate or encountered a grade, out it would come. When I took it apart, you could plainly see the wear pattern and that the clutch surfaces were only engaging about 1/32". Jonas With all due respects Hank you have this backwards. .However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid without slipping. If the springs are installed incorrectly as in even one of them sitting on top on the little posts, or even one long spring where a short is meant to be, the unit will be solidly locked in "normal" i.e. non overdrive as there never going to be enough hydraulic pressure to move a spring beyond "coil bound". Don't ask me how I know ? M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Apr 26 17:15:42 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 00:15:42 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! References: Message-ID: <001901da982f$a9dd7a00$fd986e00$@alexarevel.plus.com> Bob, Thanks for this. I?ve determined this much:- After, say, 5 miles the car started slipping in/out of OD. It was a slower in/out than one would obtain with the dashboard switch. Sort of slipping in/out. Not ?dropping out? so far as I can determine. Per Michael?s advice, I removed the operating valve and charged up/down hills and along a Motorway. No slippage. At all. I concluded that the clutch on the flywheel was not slipping. (TG, as it?s practically brand new). I then replaced the all the valve components under a gauge, jacked the car up/wheels off the ground and spun up the engine..into gear and switched on the OD. A steady 500psi which remained steady with the engine off until I engaged/disengaged the OD a few times. Which, from memory, is what one would expect. At this stage I cleaned out the rod. No dirt detected in little hole but could easily miss a flake of paint or a piece of swarf?? The solenoid makes a healthy click and visibly lifts the lever, say, ??. Appears(!) healthy. OD seems to go in and out as it should and not slip but wheels are off the ground so not a fair test for slippage. The whole OD was rebuilt, by OD spares about 15 years ago since when it?s had a fairly relaxed time and about 15,000 miles. Very seldom more than 80mph and usually cruising at 65mph on Motorway. The front, pump end, was rebuilt by ODSpares in late 2021. Car has a 28% OD and a 3:54 diff so 65mph is fairly relaxed rev wise. Have not delved into Throttle Switch, Relay or Solenoid yet. Will do so, in that order, when weather permits test drives. Thank you everyone for your help and attention in this matter, Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 7:17 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! I lost the plot (not unusual): Have we determined, for sure, that the problem is 'slippage,' which would most likely be due to wear in the O/D cone clutch? Or have we determined that Simon's O/D is 'dropping out' which, to my thinking, would be caused by the 8 strong springs overcoming hydraulic pressure (and causing the brake ring to slip or disengage, no?). On 4/26/2024 10:03 AM, Hank Leach wrote: Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the cone clutch is pushed forward in the box. When OD is not required the solenoid is inactive and the 8 springs in the unit have to keep the cone clutch in the rearward or in direct drive position. These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage and hold the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic influence-which should be draining at this point..However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid without slipping. The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, or easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive are those 8 springs and their pressure. -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox needs to come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring fit-at that time I would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from Moss) as a routine repair. (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank From: "Bob Spidell" To: Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Spitballing ... I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on it when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I did the overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK didn't slip--and I reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily available I might have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, but all I could find was a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need replacement, whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd known about it). All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the O/D has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to the bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's car's symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and more consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to really lug the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during driving. * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? bs On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" Fair question. Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone clutch. The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage " if they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the case here. The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage when the overdrive was disabled. You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing the overdrive operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Hi, Thanks for this. Not sure I understand fully. Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those waters. I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help here? The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon it drops to zero. Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable access and the forecast is grim for the next week. Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing the slippage. >From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is not energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual pressure. The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not blocked. Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is not energized. M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? From: Michael Salter > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into position? M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Fri Apr 26 19:39:53 2024 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 11:39:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon more. But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we . The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell Cheers Graeme Molony From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free.www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ~WRD4099.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 20:20:19 2024 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 22:20:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Very interesting Jonas. I have had 2 cars non working "rebuilt" overdrives brought to me for rectification and in both cases one or more long springs were installed in the inner position. Neither would go into overdrive despite the usual " flick" of the pressure gauge indicating that the valve had opened. I can only imagine that the amount of wear of the linings makes the difference. M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 8:53 p.m. jpaynepbr at cox.net, wrote: > Michael, > > I actually got the springs reversed on my last rebuild. > > OD engaged when I bench tested it, so I thought it was good. > > In the car, OD would engage and hold until a load was applied. > > It happily engaged with the car on jack stands and while driving downhill > or on level ground, but the instant you tried to accelerate or encountered > a grade, out it would come. > > When I took it apart, you could plainly see the wear pattern and that the > clutch surfaces were only engaging about 1/32". > > Jonas > > > > With all due respects Hank you have this backwards. > > .*However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not > properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" > from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive > solid without slipping*. > > If the springs are installed incorrectly as in even one of them sitting on > top on the little posts, or even one long spring where a short is meant to > be, the unit will be solidly locked in "normal" i.e. non overdrive as there > never going to be enough hydraulic pressure to move a spring beyond "coil > bound". > Don't ask me how I know ? > > M > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 21:36:03 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2024 20:36:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <001901da982f$a9dd7a00$fd986e00$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <001901da982f$a9dd7a00$fd986e00$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <2d271cb0-b5a1-4ff1-ad84-020cc5a20935@comcast.net> re: "The solenoid makes a healthy click and visibly lifts the lever, say, ?? Sorry if this has been covered, but how did you adjust the lift on the operating valve? The typical 'stick a drill bit in the hole on the side opposite the solenoid' technique is known to be unreliable, the best way is to measure lift at the operating valve/shaft; 1/32" is the correct distance IIRC. Bob On 4/26/2024 4:15 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > Bob, > > Thanks for this. > > I?ve determined this much:- > > After, say, 5 miles the car started slipping in/out of OD. It was a > slower in/out than one would obtain with the dashboard switch. Sort of > slipping in/out. Not ?dropping out? so far as I can determine. > > Per Michael?s advice, I removed the operating valve and charged > up/down hills and along a Motorway. No slippage. At all. I concluded > that the clutch on the flywheel was not slipping. (TG, as it?s > practically brand new). > > I then replaced the all the valve components under a gauge, jacked the > car up/wheels off the ground and spun up the engine..into gear and > switched on the OD. A steady 500psi which remained steady with the > engine off until I engaged/disengaged the OD a few times. Which, from > memory, is what one would expect. At this stage I cleaned out the rod. > No dirt detected in little hole but could easily miss a flake of paint > or a piece of swarf?? > > The solenoid makes a healthy click and visibly lifts the lever, say, > ??. Appears(!) healthy. OD seems to go in and out as it should and not > slip but wheels are off the ground so not a fair test for slippage. > > The whole OD was rebuilt, by OD spares about 15 years ago since when > it?s had a fairly relaxed time and about 15,000 miles. Very seldom > more than 80mph and usually cruising at 65mph on Motorway. The front, > pump end, was rebuilt by ODSpares in late 2021. Car has a 28% OD and a > 3:54 diff so 65mph is fairly relaxed rev wise. > > Have not delved into Throttle Switch, Relay or Solenoid yet. Will do > so, in that order, when weather permits test drives. > > Thank you everyone for your help and attention in this matter, > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 7:17 PM > *To:* gradea1 at charter.net; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > I lost the plot (not unusual): Have we determined, for sure, that the > problem is 'slippage,' which would most likely be due to wear in the > O/D cone clutch? Or have we determined that Simon's O/D is 'dropping > out' which, to my thinking, would be caused by the 8 strong springs > overcoming hydraulic pressure (and causing the brake ring to slip or > disengage, no?). > > On 4/26/2024 10:03 AM, Hank Leach wrote: > > Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good > condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the > cone clutch is pushed forward in the box. When OD is *not > required* the solenoid is inactive and the 8 springs in the unit > have to keep the cone clutch in the rearward or in direct drive > position. > > These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage > and hold the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic > influence-which should be draining at this point..However if the > springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly > mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" > from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct > drive solid without slipping. > > The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, > or easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive > are those 8 springs and their pressure. > -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox > needs to come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring > fit-at that time I would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from > Moss) as a routine repair. (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank > > From: "Bob Spidell" > > To: > Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > Spitballing ... > > I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles > on it when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it > when I did the overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and > AFAIK didn't slip--and I reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were > readily available I /might/ have bought new, on principle, > depending on cost, but all I could find was a re-manned one from > DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need replacement, > whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by > several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd > known about it). > > All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or > the O/D has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is > worn 'to the bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would > cause Simon's car's symptoms; if so, the problem will get > progressively worse (and more consistent). I think one way to test > an O/D clutch would be to really lug the car pulling an uphill > grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip it would do it > then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a (remote) > possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during > driving. > > > * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? > > bs > > On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" > > ?Fair question. > > Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 > places where "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the > overdrive's cone clutch. > > The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a > go/no go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". > > The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce > "slippage " if they are in really bad condition but I presume > that isn't the case here. > > The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline > slippage when the overdrive was disabled. > > You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system > is enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is > required. > > Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full > engine torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage > issue has returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe > re-installed. > > I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to > the overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that > meerly installing the overdrive operating valve resulted in > the slippage issue returning. > > Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. > > M > > On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > Hi, Thanks for this. > > Not sure I understand fully. > > Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating > valve out of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc > and put in the gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. > > What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone > clutch. Not arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in > the car, I was thinking that the function of the OD seems > OK and that it?s being interfered with by something in its > circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s > probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be > swimming in those waters. > > I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in > the rod but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean > much as something minute could have been inside and been > washed away by the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. > > After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another > rod whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was > ?to allow the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I > tried it. Could that rod be any help here? > > The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the > tip of the rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. > > Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and > stays there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the > solenoid a few times whereupon it drops to zero. > > Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is > off to enable access and the forecast is grim for the next > week. > > Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, > > Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the > flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal > drive condition) are producing the slippage. > > From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive > solenoid is *_not_* energized?the slippage is occurring at > the overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason > hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive > operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating > valve is closed. > > This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or > residual pressure. > > The question of residual pressure can be resolved by > checking that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long > overdrive valve push rod is not blocked. > > Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the > operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the > ball is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is > *_not _*?energized. > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! > > Question? ... when you got home and did the pressure > test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve > with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and > washer back into position? > > M > > On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: > > So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his > email, below). > > 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for > luck, disconnected the two wires into 3^rd > /4^th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down > longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. > Various rpm?..no slippage at all. > 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat > as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I > imagine the inner tube is shredded and the > tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). > Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced > that I?d never have got the wheel off without > the little scissors jack which I carry to get > the car up the first few inches until the > Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. > 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. > Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. > Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very > slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero > as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which > is normal I think? > 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should > and engages the OD when activated. > > So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? > > I have been urged to check the setting of the > Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage > returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS > out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll > check the adjustment. > > Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread > having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very > adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, > regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. > And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once > was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual > which I reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! > > Thanks, Simon > > *From:*Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM > *To:* Simon Lachlan > > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or > clutch slip > > *_Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!!_* > > First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on > the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the > slippage. > > To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the > overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive > operating valve can produce similar symptoms. > > To do this I would remove the overdrive operating > valve completely. (There are other ways but this > is absolutely definitive). > > Now drive the car up a long hill where you are > amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM > (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the > clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the > slippage these operating conditions. Test this a > few times to be sure. > > If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the > overdrive clutch is at fault. > > Step 1 completed. Please report results.?MS. > > On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon > Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: > > You may recall the very extended overdrive > and clutch saga last year. Long story > short(ish)? > > OD was slipping in and out depending on > oil temperature. > > Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with > gauge. > > Attempted rebuild?going only so far as > accumulator and related seals. > > Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned > out to have been ?fixed? at some stage > with some form of ?chemical metal? which > was coming loose/apart. > > Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new > housing etcetc > > Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible > while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ > yr old item. > > New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t > engage/disengage/play at all. > > Gearbox out again. > > Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some > beginner?s mistake. > > Refit gearbox?no good. Same > > Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost > count and enthusiasm by now. > > Turned out that the new clutch kit was > defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B > from AHSpares). > > New one did work. > > Saga over until yesterday. > > Same sort of symptoms?.. > > All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then > the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s > not quite the same. Reminds me more of a > slipping clutch. (But NO smell) > > Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. > > Symptoms reduce at speed. > > Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. > Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt > non-detergent topped up with 30wt > non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am > confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. > > No, I have not pressure tested it yet and > yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody > process all over again. I?m not sure I can > face taking the box out again once, let > alone multiple times. > > What I want and experience tells me I?m > unlikely to get is a miracle cure! > > One initial question?..do OD relays either > work or not work? ie, can the relay hover > between on and off which might lead to the > OD coming in and out? I think that could > happen if the switch is off but the unit > still hasn?t got the message to disengage > from the bulkhead switch. > > And a supplementary?.how do I bench test > the relay? > > Simon > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Apr 27 03:53:59 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 10:53:59 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! In-Reply-To: <2d271cb0-b5a1-4ff1-ad84-020cc5a20935@comcast.net> References: <001901da982f$a9dd7a00$fd986e00$@alexarevel.plus.com> <2d271cb0-b5a1-4ff1-ad84-020cc5a20935@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001da9888$d4d3de80$7e7b9b80$@alexarevel.plus.com> I?ve been back and checked. ?? was just an arbitrary guesstimate done with finger tips. No, it moves much less. As to how I adjusted the solenoid?s setting, back in November ?22, Michael made a couple of WhatApp calls and talked me through the procedure with the drill bit. (I knew how to do it but was getting nowhere, because of other undedected issues). Very kind?going way beyond the call of duty. We didn?t get a good result because, as it turned out, there was a greater problem inside the casing. The springs under discussion?the cone clutch etcetc?.they were all part of the rebuild undertaken by ODSpares (+/- 2005). Not necessarily replaced, I suppose but (a) checked as being serviceable for the foreseeable long-term future and (b) they?ve worked perfectly since then (+/- ?05) and since they rebuilt the pump half in late ?22. So, I?m just wondering why they?d go wrong now with so little time/work and mileage. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 4:36 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! re: "The solenoid makes a healthy click and visibly lifts the lever, say, ?? Sorry if this has been covered, but how did you adjust the lift on the operating valve? The typical 'stick a drill bit in the hole on the side opposite the solenoid' technique is known to be unreliable, the best way is to measure lift at the operating valve/shaft; 1/32" is the correct distance IIRC. Bob On 4/26/2024 4:15 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: Bob, Thanks for this. I?ve determined this much:- After, say, 5 miles the car started slipping in/out of OD. It was a slower in/out than one would obtain with the dashboard switch. Sort of slipping in/out. Not ?dropping out? so far as I can determine. Per Michael?s advice, I removed the operating valve and charged up/down hills and along a Motorway. No slippage. At all. I concluded that the clutch on the flywheel was not slipping. (TG, as it?s practically brand new). I then replaced the all the valve components under a gauge, jacked the car up/wheels off the ground and spun up the engine..into gear and switched on the OD. A steady 500psi which remained steady with the engine off until I engaged/disengaged the OD a few times. Which, from memory, is what one would expect. At this stage I cleaned out the rod. No dirt detected in little hole but could easily miss a flake of paint or a piece of swarf?? The solenoid makes a healthy click and visibly lifts the lever, say, ??. Appears(!) healthy. OD seems to go in and out as it should and not slip but wheels are off the ground so not a fair test for slippage. The whole OD was rebuilt, by OD spares about 15 years ago since when it?s had a fairly relaxed time and about 15,000 miles. Very seldom more than 80mph and usually cruising at 65mph on Motorway. The front, pump end, was rebuilt by ODSpares in late 2021. Car has a 28% OD and a 3:54 diff so 65mph is fairly relaxed rev wise. Have not delved into Throttle Switch, Relay or Solenoid yet. Will do so, in that order, when weather permits test drives. Thank you everyone for your help and attention in this matter, Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 7:17 PM To: gradea1 at charter.net ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! I lost the plot (not unusual): Have we determined, for sure, that the problem is 'slippage,' which would most likely be due to wear in the O/D cone clutch? Or have we determined that Simon's O/D is 'dropping out' which, to my thinking, would be caused by the 8 strong springs overcoming hydraulic pressure (and causing the brake ring to slip or disengage, no?). On 4/26/2024 10:03 AM, Hank Leach wrote: Ok the pressure gauge implies that the hydraulic system is in good condition and that will effectively produce overdrive when the cone clutch is pushed forward in the box. When OD is not required the solenoid is inactive and the 8 springs in the unit have to keep the cone clutch in the rearward or in direct drive position. These are stout springs and normally are strong enough to engage and hold the clutch without slipping, overcoming the hydraulic influence-which should be draining at this point..However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid without slipping. The clutch material should outlive all of us and is not normally, or easily, replaced. All you have to keep the car in direct drive are those 8 springs and their pressure. -Hate to say it but if the re-assembly was defective, the gearbox needs to come out and OD removed and checked for correct spring fit-at that time I would replace the 8 springs (about $100 from Moss) as a routine repair. (photos from my article in AH Mag) Hank From: "Bob Spidell" To: Sent: April 26, 2024 at 9:37 AM PDT Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Spitballing ... I went through my BJ8's O/D a few years ago. The car had 64K miles on it when I bought it (approx. 1984), and about 215K* miles on it when I did the overhaul. The O/D cone clutch was serviceable--and AFAIK didn't slip--and I reinstalled it. If new cone clutches were readily available I might have bought new, on principle, depending on cost, but all I could find was a re-manned one from DWM. To me this implied they didn't often need replacement, whereas known wear items like the accumulator are offered by several vendors (I would have installed one with an O-ring if I'd known about it). All this to say, unless the car has extremely high mileage and/or the O/D has been abused somehow I'd be surprised if the clutch is worn 'to the bone.' Obviously, slippage in the cone clutch would cause Simon's car's symptoms; if so, the problem will get progressively worse (and more consistent). I think one way to test an O/D clutch would be to really lug the car pulling an uphill grade in 4th-O/D, if the clutch is going to slip it would do it then (as would a worn engine clutch). There's also a (remote) possibility that, for some reason, O/D pressure fluctuates during driving. * Anyone else have this many or more known miles on a Healey? bs On 4/26/2024 4:51 AM, Michael Salter wrote: "What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch?" Fair question. Between the flywheel and the rear wheels there are only 2 places where "slippage" can occur these are the clutch and the overdrive's cone clutch. The gearbox, other than the cone clutch in the overdrive, is a go/no go arrangement, i.e. no "slippage". The rear wheel splines, believe it or not, can also produce "slippage " if they are in really bad condition but I presume that isn't the case here. The test that you just completed resulted in no driveline slippage when the overdrive was disabled. You are reporting slippage when the overdrive operating system is enabled so it follows that further diagnosis of that is required. Yes, your next step would be the same test drive, i.e. full engine torque on an uphill grade, to confirm that the slippage issue has returned now that the overdriveoperating valvehasbe re-installed. I would do this test drive BEFORE making any adjustments to the overdrive valve or solenoid in order to confirm that meerly installing the overdrive operating valve resulted in the slippage issue returning. Hope the weather improves, beautiful day here. M On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 7:24 a.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Hi, Thanks for this. Not sure I understand fully. Once I?d finished the test drive with the OD operating valve out of the car, I returned the rod, ball, spring etc and put in the gauge rather than the nut. And got 500+ psi. What I can?t do is understand the leap to the OD cone clutch. Not arguing?just saying no comprende. As I sat in the car, I was thinking that the function of the OD seems OK and that it?s being interfered with by something in its circuitry??relay, solenoid or throttle switch. That?s probably wishful thinking as I really don?t want to be swimming in those waters. I did, as a matter of course, clean out the tiny hole in the rod but didn?t detect any blockage?.which doesn?t mean much as something minute could have been inside and been washed away by the detergent/hot water then WD40?.. After someone?s advice ? some time back ? I?ve got another rod whose aperture has been drilled out to 1.5mm. This was ?to allow the OD to disengage faster?. Don?t recall if I tried it. Could that rod be any help here? The ball seems to be sitting square on its seat and the tip of the rod, where the ball sits, is not worn or chipped. Residual pressure?.. goes to 500+ when I switch OD ON and stays there until, engine and switch OFF, I energize the solenoid a few times whereupon it drops to zero. Another test drive(s) seems called for. But the hood is off to enable access and the forecast is grim for the next week. Very open to more suggestions. Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 12:14 AM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Okay, then it is confirmed that neither the clutch (on the flywheel) nor the overdrive cone clutch (in it's normal drive condition) are producing the slippage. >From this we can conclude that even when the overdrive solenoid is not energized the slippage is occurring at the overdrive cone clutch and that for some reason hydraulic pressure is finding its way into the overdrive operating cylinders even when the overdrive operating valve is closed. This can be caused by leakage past operating the valve or residual pressure. The question of residual pressure can be resolved by checking that the bleed hole in the bottom of the long overdrive valve push rod is not blocked. Whether or not hydraulic pressure is leaking past the operating valve ball can be checked by ensuring that the ball is clearly on its seat when the operating valve is not energized. M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 3:38 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: Of course. Isn?t that how I got the 520psi? From: Michael Salter > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:19 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Question ... when you got home and did the pressure test I presume that was AFTER you had put the valve with the "top hat", ball, spring and valve rod cap and washer back into position? M On Thu., Apr. 25, 2024, 12:29 p.m. Simon Lachlan, > wrote: So, here is Michael?s ?Step 1? completed. (See his email, below). 1. Removed the operating valve and, just for luck, disconnected the two wires into 3rd/4th switch. Took the car for a spin. Up/down longish/steepish hills, 10 miles on motorway. Various rpm?..no slippage at all. 2. Had a puncture?..nail in tyre. Rear RHS. Flat as a pancake at once. Nearly onto rim. Nail! I imagine the inner tube is shredded and the tyre may be a write-off. (Usually are!). Anyhow, I bore you with this as I?m convinced that I?d never have got the wheel off without the little scissors jack which I carry to get the car up the first few inches until the Healey jack comes into play. Just a suggestion??. 3. Got home and jacked car up to test pressure. Steady at 520psi which, I recall, is plenty. Stayed at 520 across rev range. Dropped very slowly once engine was off and dropped to zero as I engaged/disengaged OD a few times. Which is normal I think? 4. Solenoid makes a robust ?click? when it should and engages the OD when activated. So what?s a sensible ?Step 2??? I have been urged to check the setting of the Throttle Switch (TS). Assuming that the slippage returns (and why wouldn?t it?), I?ll short the TS out to see if that fixes it. If it does, I?ll check the adjustment. Suggestions would be more than welcome??I do dread having to take that box out again. I?ve got a very adequate ramp and a very strong volunteer(?) but, regardless of all that, it?s still quite a task. And, like a few of us, I?m not as young as I once was. I?ve always enjoyed the lines from the manual which I reproduce, below. ???Gently ease?!?! Thanks, Simon From: Michael Salter > Sent: Monday, April 22, 2024 3:21 PM To: Simon Lachlan > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Correct diagnosis is 1/2 the repair!! First you need to confirm whether the clutch (on the flywheel) or the overdrive is causing the slippage. To do this you ABSOLUTELY MUST disable the overdrive as a badly misadjuster overdrive operating valve can produce similar symptoms. To do this I would remove the overdrive operating valve completely. (There are other ways but this is absolutely definitive). Now drive the car up a long hill where you are amle to use full throttle at around 3000 RPM (maximum torque) for a few seconds. If it is the clutch (on the flywheel) that is causing the slippage these operating conditions. Test this a few times to be sure. If there is no slippage we have confirmed that the overdrive clutch is at fault. Step 1 completed. Please report results. MS. On Mon., Apr. 22, 2024, 8:08 a.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, > wrote: You may recall the very extended overdrive and clutch saga last year. Long story short(ish)? OD was slipping in and out depending on oil temperature. Correctly diagnosed pressure. Checked with gauge. Attempted rebuild?going only so far as accumulator and related seals. Stymied as could not get pump out. Turned out to have been ?fixed? at some stage with some form of ?chemical metal? which was coming loose/apart. Took it up to OD Spares who fixed it..new housing etcetc Why not a new clutch I thought? Sensible while you?re in the area looking at a 30+ yr old item. New clutch?no good. Noisy, wouldn?t engage/disengage/play at all. Gearbox out again. Refit clutch. Presumed I?d made some beginner?s mistake. Refit gearbox?no good. Same Can?t recall whether I tried again. Lost count and enthusiasm by now. Turned out that the new clutch kit was defective. (Thanks Mirek) (Genuine B&B from AHSpares). New one did work. Saga over until yesterday. Same sort of symptoms?.. All?s well for first 10 or so miles. Then the dreaded slippage(?) starts. But it?s not quite the same. Reminds me more of a slipping clutch. (But NO smell) Symptoms continue if it?s in or out of OD. Symptoms reduce at speed. Yes, plenty of oil. Over the full mark. Looks very clean. Pretty sure it?s 40wt non-detergent topped up with 30wt non-detergent. (Or vice-versa). Am confident in state of the filter, magnets etc. No, I have not pressure tested it yet and yes, I dread restarting the whole bloody process all over again. I?m not sure I can face taking the box out again once, let alone multiple times. What I want and experience tells me I?m unlikely to get is a miracle cure! One initial question?..do OD relays either work or not work? ie, can the relay hover between on and off which might lead to the OD coming in and out? I think that could happen if the switch is off but the unit still hasn?t got the message to disengage from the bulkhead switch. And a supplementary?.how do I bench test the relay? Simon _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Apr 27 04:06:18 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 11:06:18 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Messages bouncing back References: <001901da982f$a9dd7a00$fd986e00$@alexarevel.plus.com> <2d271cb0-b5a1-4ff1-ad84-020cc5a20935@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000f01da988a$8d1874f0$a7495ed0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Bob, Thanks for your efforts. Luckily, I?ve been replying to the group as well as to you personally. And I?ve noted that both my last two messages direct to you have bounced back. Thus:- ? This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification. Delivery to the following recipients failed permanently: * bspidell at comcast.net Reason: A message that you sent to the following recipient could not be delivered due to a permanent error. ** The remote server ?? responded with: ** bspidell at comcast.net ??:?? This message was created automatically by mail delivery software on the server .? Apart from the OD(!), there are no issues here. All my outgoing emails seem to arrive OK. Simon . -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Apr 27 05:47:02 2024 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (sbyers at ec.rr.com) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 07:47:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> Message-ID: <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> Conversion of Healeys to electric has begun: revival.autos/cars Happy electric Healeying! Steve Byers BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large From: Healeys On Behalf Of Graeme Molony via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 9:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon more. But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we . The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell Cheers Graeme Molony From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Apr 27 06:33:54 2024 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 08:33:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> Message-ID: With all this bellyaching has anyone considered what we poor vintage racers have to pay for a gallon of race fuel? Here's a link to what a 5 gallon can of VP 110 costs: https://vpracingfuels.com/product/vp-110/?c=215& Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Apr 27, 2024 at 8:12?AM sbyers--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Conversion of Healeys to electric has begun: revival.autos/cars > > > > > > Happy electric Healeying! > > Steve Byers > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > > > > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Graeme > Molony via Healeys > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 9:40 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gas prices > > > > Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the > equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon > more. > > > > But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we . > > > > The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere > asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy > > a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K > > > > Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell > > > > Cheers > > > > Graeme Molony > > > > > > *From:* Alan Seigrist > > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM > > *To:* m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca > > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gas prices > > > > That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! > > > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for > premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Herb > Miller via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices > > > > How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? > > Herb Miller > > > > [image: Image removed by sender.] > > > Virus-free.www.avg.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Apr 27 07:09:05 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 14:09:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> Message-ID: <000001da98a4$17f4ab20$47de0160$@alexarevel.plus.com> Yes, I noticed a couple of AH 3000 engines for sale on UK eBay the other day. Being sold by Revival Motors or similar name. Based in London. These people offer conversions from petrol to electric. ?2,500:00 then both were taken off. Presumably sold. Both were listed as working when came out of the car. Doubtless the cars? owners were told that their engines would be ?disposed of??all part of the service. If, Heaven forfend, I ever put an electric motor in my car, I would certainly keep the original. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of sbyers--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 12:47 PM To: 'Graeme Molony' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Conversion of Healeys to electric has begun: revival.autos/cars Happy electric Healeying! Steve Byers BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Graeme Molony via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 9:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon more. But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we . The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell Cheers Graeme Molony From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Apr 27 07:27:01 2024 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 13:27:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> Message-ID: You can still buy a lot of gas (sorry, petrol) for $163000. Doubt if I'll use up that budget in my lifetime. Bill Lawrence ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of sbyers--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 11:47 AM To: 'Graeme Molony' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Conversion of Healeys to electric has begun: revival.autos/cars Happy electric Healeying! Steve Byers BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large From: Healeys On Behalf Of Graeme Molony via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 9:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon more. But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we . The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell Cheers Graeme Molony From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller [Image removed by sender.] Virus-free.www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Apr 27 07:40:30 2024 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 13:40:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <000001da98a4$17f4ab20$47de0160$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> <000001da98a4$17f4ab20$47de0160$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I don?t play golf, therefore I have no use for a golf cart? ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 1:09 PM To: sbyers at ec.rr.com ; 'Graeme Molony' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Yes, I noticed a couple of AH 3000 engines for sale on UK eBay the other day. Being sold by Revival Motors or similar name. Based in London. These people offer conversions from petrol to electric. ?2,500:00 then both were taken off. Presumably sold. Both were listed as working when came out of the car. Doubtless the cars? owners were told that their engines would be ?disposed of??all part of the service. If, Heaven forfend, I ever put an electric motor in my car, I would certainly keep the original. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of sbyers--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 12:47 PM To: 'Graeme Molony' ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Conversion of Healeys to electric has begun: revival.autos/cars Happy electric Healeying! Steve Byers BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Graeme Molony via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 9:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon more. But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell Cheers Graeme Molony From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller [Image removed by sender.] Virus-free.www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Apr 27 09:57:22 2024 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 16:57:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <4D88CE3791F0422A83D8DB97FFE55B0C@GRAEMEDELL> <020a01da9898$9f6f8db0$de4ea910$@ec.rr.com> <000001da98a4$17f4ab20$47de0160$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000e01da98bb$988c2a80$c9a47f80$@alexarevel.plus.com> Agreed, absolutely. Coincidentally, I did ride on a genuine golf cart yesterday. First time ever. Quite fun. Clever with its GPS telling you where you could and couldn?t go. No wheelies on the 18th green?. Simon From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 2:41 PM To: Simon Lachlan via Healeys ; sbyers at ec.rr.com; 'Graeme Molony' ; Simon Lachlan Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices I don?t play golf, therefore I have no use for a golf cart? _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Simon Lachlan via Healeys > Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 1:09 PM To: sbyers at ec.rr.com >; 'Graeme Molony' >; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Yes, I noticed a couple of AH 3000 engines for sale on UK eBay the other day. Being sold by Revival Motors or similar name. Based in London. These people offer conversions from petrol to electric. ?2,500:00 then both were taken off. Presumably sold. Both were listed as working when came out of the car. Doubtless the cars? owners were told that their engines would be ?disposed of??all part of the service. If, Heaven forfend, I ever put an electric motor in my car, I would certainly keep the original. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of sbyers--- via Healeys Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2024 12:47 PM To: 'Graeme Molony' >; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Conversion of Healeys to electric has begun: revival.autos/cars Happy electric Healeying! Steve Byers BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Graeme Molony via Healeys Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 9:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Spare a thought for us down under Standard Fuel is currently the equivalent to $ 5.82 US per gallon and premium about a $ 1 US a gallon more. But she will be right were all going to convert to EV?s aren?t we The first Ford F 150 Lightning arrived on our shores last week with a mere asking price of $250,000 Aust ( $163,500 US ) whereas we can buy a tricked up Ranger for around $75 ? $80 K Aust . base price about $ 60 K Guess how many Lightning?s there going to sell Cheers Graeme Molony From: Alan Seigrist Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 1:50 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.teamnet/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sat Apr 27 10:57:24 2024 From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 16:57:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure or clutch slip Step 2! Message-ID: <564846e5-9aa3-c5c7-1802-c6e0159cbad0@charter.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: H-clutch lining.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 899554 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Sat Apr 27 19:42:51 2024 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 18:42:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <0dc101da990d$6255b6a0$270123e0$@gmail.com> Agreed. The $99.99 cutoff remaining in the software is just lazy programming. It probably made sense way back when the system was originally set up (likely to limit the station operator or someone else?s liability in the advent of unauthorized card usage), but given the current range of fuel prices, it could easily be raised with the change of a trivial number of lines of code? ----------------------------------- All the best, Al Fuller From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, April 26, 2024 11:42 AM To: Richard Kahn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Try another station. On 4/26/2024 11:35 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: One more problem with the increase in fuel prices is the pumps shut off at $99.99. My Audi Q5 takes a bit more so I need to reinsert my credit card. Filling the Healey is probably about $90. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:11?AM, Bob Spidell wrote: ? Y'all missing OP's point here: This isn't a gas price survey--and I doubt Herb really gives a shit about Californians' suffering--it's just (yet another) underhanded dig at California (note he shows no concerns for Canadians, who have been paying even higher prices for decades, and they can only buy liters, which are smaller than gallons). Gas prices are generally higher in the East and West Coasts and, as others have noted $7.50/gal is an outlier that happens on occasion and usually at more remote locations (there's a station on Highway 1 way north of SF that gets in the news with extreme pricing; it's a slog to get tankers up there). We 'from California' may grumble a bit but, for the most part we are delighted at the visible improvement in our air quality over the last few decades. Having spent my entire 70+ years in CA I can vouch for its improved cleanliness and breathe-ability (sorry, Bakersfield) and, since I generally like to breathe I appreciate it. We Californians find ways to deal with inconveniences; many have 'gone electric,' the rest of us just try to make the best use of whatever petroleum products we need to use. Note I have 4 cars (2 Healeys), a pickup, two old farm tractors, a JD Gator, a zero-turn, rototiller, edger and 3 2-stroke chainsaws, which will be banned in a couple years but I can all but build one from scratch from readily available parts online. We used to burn our orchard trimmings, which severely impacted air quality in the Central Valley, but most now pay more to have them chipped and hauled off, even though burning is still allowed (we Californians are kinda goofy, to be sure). We do appreciate your concern, Herb. Now, if I could just get 93-octane for my Mustang ... Bob On 4/26/2024 4:56 AM, Jake V wrote: Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the price was $3.39. That never happens, it's always more expensive thru PA and NY. On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan > wrote: I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys > wrote: For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in Ontario. Absolute robbery. From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 27 22:57:20 2024 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2024 21:57:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <0dc101da990d$6255b6a0$270123e0$@gmail.com> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> <015b01da9786$69c34e30$3d49ea90$@sympatico.ca> <0dc101da990d$6255b6a0$270123e0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: I think some of the really old pumps with mechanical displays may be limited to 4 digits. On 4/27/2024 6:42 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote: > > Agreed. The $99.99 cutoff remaining in the software is just lazy > programming. > > It probably made sense way back when the system was originally set up > (likely to limit the station operator or someone else?s liability in > the advent of unauthorized card usage), but given the current range of > fuel prices, it could easily be raised with the change of a trivial > number of lines of code? > > ----------------------------------- > > All the best, > > Al Fuller > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2024 11:42 AM > *To:* Richard Kahn > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gas prices > > Try another station. > > On 4/26/2024 11:35 AM, Richard Kahn wrote: > > One more problem with the increase in fuel prices is the pumps > shut off at $99.99. My Audi Q5 takes a bit more so I need to > reinsert my credit card. Filling the Healey is probably about $90. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Apr 26, 2024, at 11:11?AM, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > ? Y'all missing OP's point here: This isn't a gas price > survey--and I doubt Herb really gives a shit about > Californians' suffering--it's just (yet another) underhanded > dig at California (note he shows no concerns for Canadians, > who have been paying even higher prices for decades, and they > can only buy liters, which are smaller than gallons). Gas > prices are generally higher in the East and West Coasts and, > as others have noted $7.50/gal is an outlier that happens on > occasion and usually at more remote locations (there's a > station on Highway 1 way north of SF that gets in the news > with extreme pricing; it's a slog to get tankers up there). > > We 'from California' may grumble a bit but, for the most part > we are delighted at the visible improvement in our air quality > over the last few decades. Having spent my entire 70+ years in > CA I can vouch for its improved cleanliness and > breathe-ability (sorry, Bakersfield) and, since I generally > like to breathe I appreciate it. We Californians find ways to > deal with inconveniences; many have 'gone electric,' the rest > of us just try to make the best use of whatever petroleum > products we need to use. Note I have 4 cars (2 Healeys), a > pickup, two old farm tractors, a JD Gator, a zero-turn, > rototiller, edger and 3 2-stroke chainsaws, which will be > banned in a couple years but I can all but build one from > scratch from readily available parts online. We used to burn > our orchard trimmings, which severely impacted air quality in > the Central Valley, but most now pay more to have them chipped > and hauled off, even though burning is still allowed (we > Californians are kinda goofy, to be sure). > > We do appreciate your concern, Herb. Now, if I could just get > 93-octane for my Mustang ... > > Bob > > On 4/26/2024 4:56 AM, Jake V wrote: > > Been a static $3.59 in northern VA for weeks. > > Funny, we went to Rochester NY for the eclipse and the > price was $3.39. That never happens, it's always more > expensive thru PA and NY. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 7:37?AM Jim Ryan > wrote: > > I paid $4.49 for premium yesterday here in NH. > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 12:34?AM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > > That's that Canadian Carbon Tax at work! > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:23?AM m.g.sharp--- via > Healeys wrote: > > For the last week we around $6.50 per US gal > for regular, $7.50+ for premium here in > Ontario.? Absolute robbery. > > *From:* Healeys > *On Behalf Of > *Herb Miller via Healeys > *Sent:* Thursday, April 25, 2024 6:50 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas prices > > How are you from California dealing with $ > 7.50 ?per gallon of gas. ? > > Herb Miller > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 29 00:12:14 2024 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2024 23:12:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices In-Reply-To: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> References: <009101da9762$dc443e20$94ccba60$@centurylink.net> Message-ID: <006d01da99fc$2f18e560$8d4ab020$@sbcglobal.net> Premium is $5.70 a gallon in San Jose. Just paying it and hating many of California's tax policies! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 3:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmcharris at hotmail.com Mon Apr 29 12:16:16 2024 From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 18:16:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 74 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Filled up recently in Carlsbad 2 6.10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 29, 2024 11:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 74 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346050156%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Oyiaw%2BDTYVgrFDzDwJ0SIo7l7y6KKhLGqAtAP1pDYPk%3D&reserved=0 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Gas prices (John Spaur) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2024 23:12:14 -0700 From: "John Spaur" To: "'Herb Miller'" Cc: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices Message-ID: <006d01da99fc$2f18e560$8d4ab020$@sbcglobal.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Premium is $5.70 a gallon in San Jose. Just paying it and hating many of California's tax policies! From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Herb Miller via Healeys Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 3:50 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50 per gallon of gas. ? Herb Miller Virus-free. https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avg.com%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346072257%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Hihxm9wSZsnUQ2qxH0me1FA49ZmkCppRf%2FPJn9p7xEs%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: > ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346081700%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=XSA1UxMbdrbE4zHKPOQNzzsKjZo9P2oZQb9sHVPZiWs%3D&reserved=0 archives: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346086270%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=iZGCSr%2FQrpMgXJG7Y9N94tyZq5kkjRg%2Bpt%2BJIYZzqFU%3D&reserved=0 ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 74 *************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Mon Apr 29 14:44:38 2024 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 13:44:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 74 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8d673611-16cc-46fc-810d-841d95d97da3@comcast.net> Lowest I've seen in Oregon is 4.00. On 4/29/24 11:16 AM, george mcharris wrote: > Filled up recently in Carlsbad 2 6.10 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > healeys-request at autox.team.net > *Sent:* Monday, April 29, 2024 11:00 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 74 > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346050156%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Oyiaw%2BDTYVgrFDzDwJ0SIo7l7y6KKhLGqAtAP1pDYPk%3D&reserved=0 > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > ?? 1. Re: Gas prices (John Spaur) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2024 23:12:14 -0700 > From: "John Spaur" > To: "'Herb Miller'" > Cc: > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas prices > Message-ID: <006d01da99fc$2f18e560$8d4ab020$@sbcglobal.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Premium is $5.70 a gallon in San Jose. Just paying it and hating many of > California's tax policies! > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of Herb > Miller via Healeys > Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2024 3:50 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Gas prices > > > > How are you from California dealing with $ 7.50? per gallon of gas. ? > > Herb Miller > > > > > > paign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> > > Virus-free. > paign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.avg.com%2F&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346072257%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=Hihxm9wSZsnUQ2qxH0me1FA49ZmkCppRf%2FPJn9p7xEs%3D&reserved=0 > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346081700%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=XSA1UxMbdrbE4zHKPOQNzzsKjZo9P2oZQb9sHVPZiWs%3D&reserved=0 > > > archives: > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=05%7C02%7C%7C518b0528dd074273adc808dc68782017%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C638500112346086270%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C0%7C%7C%7C&sdata=iZGCSr%2FQrpMgXJG7Y9N94tyZq5kkjRg%2Bpt%2BJIYZzqFU%3D&reserved=0 > > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue 74 > *************************************** > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Apr 29 15:50:10 2024 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2024 17:50:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] The sad but inevitable References: <7661AB21-4A5E-40D9-81D8-39A32ACA2822.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <7661AB21-4A5E-40D9-81D8-39A32ACA2822@aol.com> Listers Life has a habit of messing with you from time to time. Plans and expectations change and require us to buckle up and go for a ride. Had plans to pass on our two 100?s to our eldest son in Portland Oregon . His sudden demise requires a new plan. If this breaks the rules regarding selling on the list, I will call this email as a heads up, two cars are available. 1954 100 Yellow Nasty boy 350 Chevy, four speed, disc brakes on 4 corners. Other 100 is a red BN2 1955 that I have owned since 1965 and was restored to stock condition 30+\~ years ago. Interested email healeyguy at aol.com Perry Small Now located in South Carolina Sent from my iPhone