[Healeys] Rear seal kit

[Bob Spidell]

David,

Do you drill the hole in the bearing cap?

bs

On 11/4/2023 9:04 PM, David Nock via Healeys wrote:
> I have installed probably 30 of the 100/4 rear seal conversions.  And 
> as long as you follow the instructions it works fine.
> You do have to make sure that you seal the rear center oil pan bolt. 
> It goes directly into the rear main drain and if you don’t use a 
> copper washer and seal the threads it will leak. And you will blame 
> the rear main seal.
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 4, 2023, at 4:57 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Michael--
>>
>> Thanks for your input and I am certainly willing to forgo the expense 
>> and trouble of having a rear seal fit if there is a strong chance of 
>> it not being successful.
>> Besides (being an aging male) I should probably have the grace to 
>> allow my car to have an occasional drip or two.
>>
>> A couple of questions....
>>
>> Q1--As said earlier my car does not have a great amount of leakage 
>> through the cotter pin in the bell housing, though I do seem to 
>> remember that it leaked more after the engine was freshly rebuilt 
>> about 70K miles ago.  My oil pressure has also dropped about 10-15 
>> psi from where it was after the rebuild.  Assuming that a fresh 
>> engine will have higher oil pressure will that result in higher 
>> crankcase pressures which would tend to increase leakage past the 
>> scroll seal?
>>
>> Q2--My car has an early aftermarket valve cover and looks like the 
>> ones sold by Ray Juncal minus one fin and with a flat versus a 
>> slightly convex top surface.  There is no vent nipple and it has a 
>> spring-loaded filler cap that probably does not make a tight seal 
>> though there is no oil blow-by.  Is there a real advantage to 
>> installing a PCV valve and if so where should the hose terminate?  I 
>> removed the original LeMans kit CAB some time back and would prefer 
>> not to refit it.
>>
>> Thanks--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 4, 2023 at 4:04 PM Michael Salter 
>> <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>     I've fitted a couple of those kits and have been somewhat
>>     underwhelmed.
>>     Firstly you have to be VERY careful with the rear cap machining
>>     alignment,  definitely a case of measure twice, cut once. I would
>>     strongly recommend that the cap is in place on the block for this
>>     operation.
>>     Secondly I was very disappointed to find that the designers
>>     decided that it was just too much effort to utilize the 3 tapped
>>     holes already in the block to secure the upper half of the seal
>>     holder and instead required that one drill and tap 2 more holes
>>     for that purpose.
>>     Thirdly, and I appreciate that there is possibly no way around
>>     this but, the scroll on the crankshaft has to be machined off
>>     which is something that you should have your crank grinder do
>>     when the crank is being machined. I did mine in my 8" lathe and
>>     it's pretty scary having that huge hunk of steel spinning between
>>     centers (don't forget to disable the chuck brake ... rather
>>     frightening to notice the chuck winding off the spindle as you
>>     power it down😳😳).
>>     Finally, after all that effort, there was still a small leak from
>>     the rear main which I finally resolved by installing my PCV.
>>      kit.
>>     https://precisionsportscar.com/austin-healey-100-engine-oil-leak-solution/
>>
>>     In future I'm not going to bother with the seal kit and just fot
>>     the PCV.
>>
>>     M
>>
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