[Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

Tue Jun 20 14:41:10 MDT 2023

It is on my site on the British Humor page. Gotta scroll down a bit to see it.

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2023 12:11 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

Reminds me ... Decades ago, there was a 'meme'--before memes were a thing--consisting of an image of all the 'special tools' BMC insisted a mechanic needed to work on their cars. There was a picture of every tool, next to an 'equal' sign and ... a hammer. I had a copy of it, always good for a chuckle, but that computer was stolen; anyone still have it?

On 6/20/2023 8:55 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

Point of interest  ... there's actually a special tool for removing the pump. 

I think I've only ever used it once!!

On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around."

Roger,

Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago). 

Bob

On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:

A few minor corrections ...

Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !

I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.

However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange and the OD.

I also use the wire/twine technique.

Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around.

Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment after some careful threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used this a few times lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !

rg

On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. 

The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted

https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/

 it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox. 

M

On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8

You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.

bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:

I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we get past it?

Gary Hodson

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