From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jun  1 02:21:11 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2023 10:21:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] fuel pumps
In-Reply-To: <d66477e6-4776-28a5-b98d-00c9b28a79aa@comcast.net>
References: <20230529181135.21928.qmail@server278.com>
 <047d01d99280$f3d7b6d0$db872470$@gmail.com>
 <1465867786.167792528.1685440526534.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <056101d99328$72adada0$580908e0$@gmail.com>
 <CAOqP0SLGqM3j7ksA-K5+e37Df0tS50UdgeAx=4Ct2rvCEyWAYQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <1B8545C9-6AB0-4DE6-BCC6-EFF5EDD08D37@gmail.com>
 <d66477e6-4776-28a5-b98d-00c9b28a79aa@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <ba5a3fd8-ff96-6cc5-8a4b-5e28f3419a80@chello.nl>

I use flower paper (very fine wet&dry) for that: grade 2000 or higher, 
followed by brass polish to get a highly polished surface which is less 
prone to wear or corrosion. However just in case of an emergency on the 
road I make sure I have some wet&dry 400 in my tool box. Never needed so 
far though.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 1-6-2023 om 03:42 schreef Bob Spidell:
> Good idea to run some paper--matchbook cover is good--through the 
> points after you've filed/sanded the surface.
>
> On 5/31/2023 9:05 AM, Ricchardd Mayor wrote:
>> FYI. ? When the points in the SU fuel pump stick together - it stops 
>> pumping. Thumping on the rear bulkhead is just enough to create a 
>> vibration that makes them separate. ?Sticking points can usually be 
>> fixed by cleaning the points with some very fine sandpaper.
>>
>> Richard?Mayor
>> boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>> On May 30, 2023, at 7:24 PM, Tom Mitchell <drtommitch at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I have one of each pumps installed. The points pump does pump slower 
>>> but I attributed that to being 20 years old. The electronic pump is 
>>> about 10 years old and does pump faster. Both seem to work fine. 
>>> Except for the points pump, I have to hit the bulkhead every now and 
>>> then to get it started.
>>>
>>> On Tue, May 30, 2023, 6:04 PM <alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>     Tom - does it pump at the usual rate and for the usual time?
>>>
>>>     Faster? [Might signal an air leak, and not enough pressure to
>>>     get it to slow down]
>>>
>>>     Slower? [Might signal a blocked screen at the pump or carb[s],
>>>     or blocked/pinched/collapsed fuel line, generating enough
>>>     pressure to make the pump slow down or stop - same as if the
>>>     float bowl was full.
>>>
>>>     ----------------
>>>     All the best,
>>>
>>>     Al Fuller
>>>
>>>     -----Original Message-----
>>>     From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
>>>     Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2023 2:55 AM
>>>     To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
>>>     Cc: healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>; healeys
>>>     <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pumps
>>>
>>>     nteresting---I'm believe I am having problems with my solid
>>>     state one now.? it works, but is weak in pumping--so much so
>>>     that while looking at the see-thru filter, there is very little
>>>     fuel in it.? I have had the? Healey shut down on me several
>>>     times recently which I have attributed to fuel starvation.
>>>     Tom
>>>
>>>     ----- Original Message -----
>>>     From: alfuller194 at gmail.com
>>>     To: "healeymanjim" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>, "healeys"
>>>     <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>     Sent: Monday, May 29, 2023 6:57:32 PM
>>>     Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel pumps
>>>
>>>     Jim - I'll take them. I can pick them up.
>>>
>>>     ----------------
>>>     All the best,
>>>
>>>     Al Fuller
>>>
>>>     -----Original Message-----
>>>     From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
>>>     healeymanjim via Healeys
>>>     Sent: Monday, May 29, 2023 11:12 AM
>>>     To: healeys at autox.team.net
>>>     Subject: [Healeys] fuel pumps
>>>
>>>     have two solid state fuel pumps i have given up on. free for the
>>>     shipping cost.? on pos gnd one neg gnd.? myself and fellow
>>>     healey owner have gone back to points type and are happy with that.
>>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sun Jun  4 19:02:47 2023
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2023 21:02:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lifter options...again
References: <A2AE835A-C070-4BC1-B10D-738F528CBA87.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <A2AE835A-C070-4BC1-B10D-738F528CBA87@rogers.com>

I?ve been following the thread about the tappet/cam interface with interest.
While working on my restoration I had my cam ground by an outfit in the Toronto area that Mike Salter recommended, and they suggested I send my original lifters to their supplier for re-hardening.
I don?t want to make this story too long, but, after 7,000 miles back on the road I didn?t experience the dramatic changes in valve clearance adjustment, or excessive noise, I just thought it would be a good idea to inspect the lifters after a period.
I should add that I had followed the wear-in instructions very carefully upon the initial startup , and only used oil with ZDDP (Brad Penn and Driven).

Anyway, the lifters were looking good until I got to number 7, which was starting to show pitting. Now, my theory is that this particular item wasn?t hardened properly because of the difference from the others. 
My inclination is to replace the lifters and go through the wear-in procedure again. I KNOW, you should mate new cam to new lifters, but I thought I?d give this a go and keep and eye on it, rather than strip the engine, because I didn?t have the dramatic symptoms that Michael described. I believe I discovered it very early in the game. By now I don?t trust any of the lifters.

Of course now my question for the list is which lifters? I remember Michael talking about sintered tappets being expensive but a big improvement?
Any advice?

Thanks,
Stephen, BJ8

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Mon Jun  5 03:04:33 2023
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2023 19:04:33 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Lifter options...again
In-Reply-To: <A2AE835A-C070-4BC1-B10D-738F528CBA87@rogers.com>
References: <A2AE835A-C070-4BC1-B10D-738F528CBA87@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <8AAA867D-6B06-4EF2-8D8C-5BFB3DFA0076@gmail.com>

Cam / lifter lubricantion is always an issue on BMC engines. 
It was ?splash and pray!?!
Men. Look at the modern technology. New billet camshafts. 
These new Gun drilled camshafts, with oil feeds to each cam follower, and oil feeds to the oil pump gear and distributor drive gear. 
Modern steel. Modern hardening. 
Matching cam followers. 
Oil pressure fed lubrication. 
Seriously 
Most A series race engine suppliers won?t regrind your 60 - 70 year old lump of marginal steel. 
Sincerely 
Look at billet cams that make the camshaft part of the oil gallery 
P.S. whoever said the Healey Cam is ?hardened all the way through? has NFI. It?s a surface hardening   technology. 
I have old cams. 
Factory. 
Prove to me they are hardened all the way through? 
Bullshit. Surface hardened. 
And it wears out?



> On 5 Jun 2023, at 11:44 am, Stephen Hutchings via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I?ve been following the thread about the tappet/cam interface with interest.
> While working on my restoration I had my cam ground by an outfit in the Toronto area that Mike Salter recommended, and they suggested I send my original lifters to their supplier for re-hardening.
> I don?t want to make this story too long, but, after 7,000 miles back on the road I didn?t experience the dramatic changes in valve clearance adjustment, or excessive noise, I just thought it would be a good idea to inspect the lifters after a period.
> I should add that I had followed the wear-in instructions very carefully upon the initial startup , and only used oil with ZDDP (Brad Penn and Driven).
> 
> Anyway, the lifters were looking good until I got to number 7, which was starting to show pitting. Now, my theory is that this particular item wasn?t hardened properly because of the difference from the others. 
> My inclination is to replace the lifters and go through the wear-in procedure again. I KNOW, you should mate new cam to new lifters, but I thought I?d give this a go and keep and eye on it, rather than strip the engine, because I didn?t have the dramatic symptoms that Michael described. I believe I discovered it very early in the game. By now I don?t trust any of the lifters.
> 
> Of course now my question for the list is which lifters? I remember Michael talking about sintered tappets being expensive but a big improvement?
> Any advice?
> 
> Thanks,
> Stephen, BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
> 

From hgmiller3 at centurylink.net  Mon Jun  5 16:46:07 2023
From: hgmiller3 at centurylink.net (Herb Miller)
Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2023 17:46:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] early BN4 locking doors
Message-ID: <002101d997ff$85128b60$8f37a220$@centurylink.net>

Many years ago, around 1973 I bought a basket case parts car. Salvaged many
parts, including 2 doors in very serviceable condition.   The left hand
door, (driver side) has the door handle cut out for a locking door handle,
the right hand door cutout is standard non locking. I understand this was a
feature on early BN4's. I also  have the original door top aluminum trim
pieces. Finally I have the door handles, and  door latch assembly's for
these doors.

I have a 1962 BT7 and a 1967 BJ8, so these spares are  redundant to me.

Let me know if there is any interest. Contact me  for pictures.

Herb Miller

hgmiller3 at centurylink net

612-860-8067



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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Jun  7 09:32:22 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2023 08:32:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Main Seal Conversion
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNUHfHgnAd6W+9e4VUtJdA-5UCx=icjQyjkbrYnKZaycw@mail.gmail.com>

I would really appreciate hearing from people with experience doing this
task.
BJ8 with clutch and flywheel removed.
Engine has had the rear main oil seal conversion done some time ago. Now
leaking badly. Objective is to replace the lip seal. Am assuming it was a
Moss one. It looks similar - is there a way to positively identify the
source of the original conversion kit ?
Were there other kits available around, say 20 years ago ?

So have loosened the 4 x cap screws that secure the upper and lower housing
to the back plate. The housing is now loose. Struggling to remove the cap
screws. Their heads seem too big to come out the flywheel bolt holes ? Need
to move housing forward so then can loosen the screws that secure the top
and lower housings together.
Next move would be to move crankshaft a few degrees to give more clearance
- nervous screws may drop into a bad location !
So ideas/thoughts please ?
Moss have  a replacement lip seal that will order and will assume will fit
as doubt that there are many variations.
Thank you
rg





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From manifold at telus.net  Wed Jun  7 11:31:46 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2023 11:31:46 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Main Seal Conversion
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNUHfHgnAd6W+9e4VUtJdA-5UCx=icjQyjkbrYnKZaycw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiNUHfHgnAd6W+9e4VUtJdA-5UCx=icjQyjkbrYnKZaycw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ED2D5A14-8206-4322-B308-CCFA5EAD6336@telus.net>

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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Jun  7 11:56:08 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 7 Jun 2023 10:56:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Rear Main Seal Conversion
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiNUHfHgnAd6W+9e4VUtJdA-5UCx=icjQyjkbrYnKZaycw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CALPtYiNUHfHgnAd6W+9e4VUtJdA-5UCx=icjQyjkbrYnKZaycw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiO3f=qCHrazJDv6QmStA6P8jvXATz0ZGaWnLiUgnr+Wyw@mail.gmail.com>

Later ...
Have reread the install instructions, and silly me realise I have to remove
the rear plate too.
This would explain why cant get the cap screws out.
rg

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Date: Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 8:32?AM
Subject: Rear Main Seal Conversion
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>


I would really appreciate hearing from people with experience doing this
task.
BJ8 with clutch and flywheel removed.
Engine has had the rear main oil seal conversion done some time ago. Now
leaking badly. Objective is to replace the lip seal. Am assuming it was a
Moss one. It looks similar - is there a way to positively identify the
source of the original conversion kit ?
Were there other kits available around, say 20 years ago ?

So have loosened the 4 x cap screws that secure the upper and lower housing
to the back plate. The housing is now loose. Struggling to remove the cap
screws. Their heads seem too big to come out the flywheel bolt holes ? Need
to move housing forward so then can loosen the screws that secure the top
and lower housings together.
Next move would be to move crankshaft a few degrees to give more clearance
- nervous screws may drop into a bad location !
So ideas/thoughts please ?
Moss have  a replacement lip seal that will order and will assume will fit
as doubt that there are many variations.
Thank you
rg





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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Sun Jun 11 23:41:16 2023
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 05:41:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
Message-ID: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3's rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.

Everything is spot on - timing, spark and fuel.

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 12 02:43:14 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 10:43:14 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>

Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? Does 
the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?

Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct 
wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity wrong.

The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an engine 
that has been properly run in. It also depends on the tolerances and 
surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that it is a proper 
rebuild the compression should not be an issue here. Whatever the 
compression the engine should start.

Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and fine 
tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running engine.? It 
is however not an issue either as you set ignition initially statically 
as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and it should at least run on 
that.

Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some easy 
start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during turning 
over and see if you get some life.? If so it is a fuel issue.

Good luck.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>
> Hello
>
> No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s 
> rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road 
> failed to instill any life into the engine.
>
> Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.
>
> Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine 
> should be?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Mon Jun 12 04:01:21 2023
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 10:01:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hello Kees

Thank you for your response.

I?m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth strap was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called ?Start ya Bastard!?

I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. Not quite what it should be.

When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have the cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that when they put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The head comes off next weekend to check.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression


Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? Does the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?

Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity wrong.

The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an engine that has been properly run in. It also depends on the tolerances and surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that it is a proper rebuild the compression should not be an issue here. Whatever the compression the engine should start.

Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running engine.  It is however not an issue either as you set ignition initially statically as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and it should at least run on that.

Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some easy start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during turning over and see if you get some life.  If so it is a fuel issue.

Good luck.



Kees Oudesluijs






Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
Hello

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.

Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia



_______________________________________________

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Suggested annual donation  $12.75



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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jun 12 04:30:56 2023
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 06:30:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question bJ8
Message-ID: <1086601161.195879126.1686565856731.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Not understanding electrical concerns very well, I'll pose this question. 

BJ8--positive ground-------test lamp hooked to negative of coil (engine running) and then to ground. Light lights but this shuts down the engine. Should it? If not, any idea why it does? 

Thanks tom 
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 12 04:50:45 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 12:50:45 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
 <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <faec6c2c-aa41-7e0b-6d6f-e566f9a8e59a@chello.nl>


Hello Patrick,


Between 5 and 10lbs can barely be called a compression so something 
serious is amiss. It should be well above 5bar for any engine. Depending 
on C-R and wear. Even with a slightly burned or not lapped in valve.

If it is not the clearances it really looks like a head off job to 
investigate and sort the valves. Luckily not too big a job on the A-H.


Cheers,
Kees



Op 12-6-2023 om 12:01 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn:
>
> Hello Kees
>
> Thank you for your response.
>
> I?m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth 
> strap was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called ?Start 
> ya Bastard!?
>
> I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. 
> Not quite what it should be.
>
> When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have 
> the cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that 
> when they put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The head 
> comes off next weekend to check.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Kees 
> Oudesluijs via Healeys
> *Sent:* Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
>
> Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? 
> Does the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?
>
> Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct 
> wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity wrong.
>
> The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an engine 
> that has been properly run in. It also depends on the tolerances and 
> surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that it is a proper 
> rebuild the compression should not be an issue here. Whatever the 
> compression the engine should start.
>
> Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and 
> fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running 
> engine.? It is however not an issue either as you set ignition 
> initially statically as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and it 
> should at least run on that.
>
> Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some easy 
> start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during 
> turning over and see if you get some life.? If so it is a fuel issue.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>
>     Hello
>
>     No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the
>     BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the
>     road failed to instill any life into the engine.
>
>     Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.
>
>     Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt
>     engine should be?
>
>     Many thanks
>
>     Patrick Quinn
>
>     Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
> 	
>
> Virusvrij.www.avg.com 
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jun 12 05:39:08 2023
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 07:39:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
 <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7nVi1OpYqpAKFEdXtR=O=zK7WF8MpardL8te0XP4SmUA@mail.gmail.com>

Patrick--

Let's go back to the beginning:  When you crank the engine with one plug
removed and grounded against the engine is there any spark across the
electrode gap?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 6:11?AM Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p.cquinn at outlook.com> wrote:

> Hello Kees
>
>
>
> Thank you for your response.
>
>
>
> I?m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth strap
> was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called ?Start ya Bastard!?
>
>
>
> I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. Not
> quite what it should be.
>
>
>
> When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have the
> cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that when they
> put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The head comes off next
> weekend to check.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Kees
> Oudesluijs via Healeys
> *Sent:* Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
>
>
>
> Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? Does
> the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?
>
> Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct wiring
> of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity wrong.
>
> The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an engine
> that has been properly run in. It also depends on the tolerances and
> surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that it is a proper rebuild
> the compression should not be an issue here. Whatever the compression the
> engine should start.
>
> Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and fine
> tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running engine.  It is
> however not an issue either as you set ignition initially statically as you
> do with the adjustment of the carbs and it should at least run on that.
>
> Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some easy
> start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during turning
> over and see if you get some life.  If so it is a fuel issue.
>
> Good luck.
>
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s
> rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to
> instill any life into the engine.
>
>
>
> Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.
>
>
>
> Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine
> should be?
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
> Virusvrij.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Mon Jun 12 05:46:39 2023
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 11:46:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7nVi1OpYqpAKFEdXtR=O=zK7WF8MpardL8te0XP4SmUA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
 <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <CAPTa0B7nVi1OpYqpAKFEdXtR=O=zK7WF8MpardL8te0XP4SmUA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <TY2PR0101MB27677D0E27C230A93E01E5D48C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Thank you Michael

Yes we have done all that.

Had spark, which improved with new points and condenser.

Hoo Roo

Patrick

From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 9:39 PM
To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p.cquinn at outlook.com>
Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

Patrick--

Let's go back to the beginning:  When you crank the engine with one plug removed and grounded against the engine is there any spark across the electrode gap?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 6:11?AM Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p.cquinn at outlook.com<mailto:p.cquinn at outlook.com>> wrote:
Hello Kees

Thank you for your response.

I?m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth strap was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called ?Start ya Bastard!?

I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. Not quite what it should be.

When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have the cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that when they put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The head comes off next weekend to check.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression


Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? Does the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?

Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity wrong.

The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an engine that has been properly run in. It also depends on the tolerances and surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that it is a proper rebuild the compression should not be an issue here. Whatever the compression the engine should start.

Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running engine.  It is however not an issue either as you set ignition initially statically as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and it should at least run on that.

Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some easy start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during turning over and see if you get some life.  If so it is a fuel issue.

Good luck.



Kees Oudesluijs






Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
Hello

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.

Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia


_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75



Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 12 07:12:26 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 06:12:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical Question bJ8
In-Reply-To: <1086601161.195879126.1686565856731.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1086601161.195879126.1686565856731.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <ea133115-7fa9-6839-a3b0-79823b154d68@comcast.net>

Tom,

What kind of 'test lamp?' Timing light, spark detector or 'other?' 
Connecting any neg. terminal to pos. gnd. would create a dead short; 
your test lamp must have enough resistance to prevent that (else you'd 
fry the wire and maybe your harness). The neg. coil terminal is your 
primary ignition 'hot' lead; points, if you have them, switch to ground 
(Pertronix would have pos. terminal permanently wired to gnd.).

Bob



On 6/12/2023 3:30 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> Not understanding electrical concerns very well, I'll pose this question.
>
> BJ8--positive ground-------test lamp hooked to negative of coil 
> (engine running) and then to ground.? Light lights but this shuts down 
> the engine.? Should it?? If not, any idea why it does?
>
> Thanks tom
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 12 07:15:55 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 06:15:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <faec6c2c-aa41-7e0b-6d6f-e566f9a8e59a@chello.nl>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
 <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <faec6c2c-aa41-7e0b-6d6f-e566f9a8e59a@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <0326739a-4a53-61a7-04c8-869bc0d0a90f@comcast.net>

Almost sounds like the cam is /way/ out of phase (I think even unlapped 
valves would seal better than that). The 'count 13 links' cam install 
'system' is wonky at best and confusing. Fortunately, I don't think the 
Austin is an interference engine.

On 6/12/2023 3:50 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>
>
> Hello Patrick,
>
>
> Between 5 and 10lbs can barely be called a compression so something 
> serious is amiss. It should be well above 5bar for any engine. 
> Depending on C-R and wear. Even with a slightly burned or not lapped 
> in valve.
>
> If it is not the clearances it really looks like a head off job to 
> investigate and sort the valves. Luckily not too big a job on the A-H.
>
>
> Cheers,
> Kees
>
>
>
> Op 12-6-2023 om 12:01 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn:
>>
>> Hello Kees
>>
>> Thank you for your response.
>>
>> I?m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth 
>> strap was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called ?Start 
>> ya Bastard!?
>>
>> I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. 
>> Not quite what it should be.
>>
>> When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have 
>> the cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that 
>> when they put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The 
>> head comes off next weekend to check.
>>
>> Hoo Roo
>>
>> Patrick Quinn
>>
>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Kees 
>> Oudesluijs via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
>>
>> Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? 
>> Does the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?
>>
>> Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct 
>> wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity wrong.
>>
>> The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an 
>> engine that has been properly run in. It also depends on the 
>> tolerances and surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that it 
>> is a proper rebuild the compression should not be an issue here. 
>> Whatever the compression the engine should start.
>>
>> Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and 
>> fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running 
>> engine.? It is however not an issue either as you set ignition 
>> initially statically as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and 
>> it should at least run on that.
>>
>> Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some easy 
>> start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during 
>> turning over and see if you get some life.? If so it is a fuel issue.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>> Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>>
>>     Hello
>>
>>     No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the
>>     BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the
>>     road failed to instill any life into the engine.
>>
>>     Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.
>>
>>     Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt
>>     engine should be?
>>
>>     Many thanks
>>
>>     Patrick Quinn
>>
>>     Blue Mountains, Australia
>>
>>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jun 12 07:38:25 2023
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 09:38:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Electrical question BJ8
References: <8C7275FA-5767-4EB2-AED7-9C6F1B51C9DE.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8C7275FA-5767-4EB2-AED7-9C6F1B51C9DE@aol.com>

Tom
Believe you are grounding the voltage feed to the coil. 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

From rosowski at tampabay.rr.com  Mon Jun 12 07:52:07 2023
From: rosowski at tampabay.rr.com (rosowski at tampabay.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 13:52:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
Message-ID: <c3a752ef26526bc2dbbf8a4c2919cf17ed423ee0@webmail>

Compression reading that low suggests that the cam may not be properly
indexed to the crank. Have you double checked the timing chain
installation since the rebuild?

	-----------------------------------------From: "Patrick and Caroline
Quinn via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 12 2023 2:05:10AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

	Hello 

	No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s
rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road
failed to instill any life into the engine. 

	Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel. 

	Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine
should be? 

	Many thanks 

	Patrick Quinn 

	Blue Mountains, Australia
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jun 12 09:09:38 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 17:09:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <0326739a-4a53-61a7-04c8-869bc0d0a90f@comcast.net>
References: <TY2PR0101MB27674CF93435EBF08F0D71998C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <67f11e1a-61b7-a148-087f-c5d37f5b248b@chello.nl>
 <TY2PR0101MB27671851E6EEA896B80EF8958C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <faec6c2c-aa41-7e0b-6d6f-e566f9a8e59a@chello.nl>
 <0326739a-4a53-61a7-04c8-869bc0d0a90f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <dccc6bcd-62bc-f69d-860d-adda405b1133@chello.nl>

That is easy to check. With the TDC mark aligned at 0 degrees no:1 
cylinder boths valves should be fully closed. Turning? the crank shaft 
about 170 degrees forward and the exhaust valve should begin to open. 
turning another 180 degrees and the exhaust valve should start closing 
and the inlet valve opening, depending on the overlap.

Kees


Op 12-6-2023 om 15:15 schreef Bob Spidell:
> Almost sounds like the cam is /way/ out of phase (I think even 
> unlapped valves would seal better than that). The 'count 13 links' cam 
> install 'system' is wonky at best and confusing. Fortunately, I don't 
> think the Austin is an interference engine.
>
> On 6/12/2023 3:50 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hello Patrick,
>>
>>
>> Between 5 and 10lbs can barely be called a compression so something 
>> serious is amiss. It should be well above 5bar for any engine. 
>> Depending on C-R and wear. Even with a slightly burned or not lapped 
>> in valve.
>>
>> If it is not the clearances it really looks like a head off job to 
>> investigate and sort the valves. Luckily not too big a job on the A-H.
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Kees
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 12-6-2023 om 12:01 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn:
>>>
>>> Hello Kees
>>>
>>> Thank you for your response.
>>>
>>> I?m afraid I tried all that. Plugs are wet! Even made sure the earth 
>>> strap was earthing properly. Also used a starting fluid called 
>>> ?Start ya Bastard!?
>>>
>>> I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 5 and 10 lbs. 
>>> Not quite what it should be.
>>>
>>> When the engine expired last year, the first thing I did was to have 
>>> the cylinder head pressure tested. It was okay, but I suspect that 
>>> when they put it back together the valves were not lapped in. The 
>>> head comes off next weekend to check.
>>>
>>> Hoo Roo
>>>
>>> Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Kees 
>>> Oudesluijs via Healeys
>>> *Sent:* Monday, June 12, 2023 6:43 PM
>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
>>>
>>> Did you check the firing order, camshaft timing, valve clearances? 
>>> Does the distributor shaft turn when the engine is turning over?
>>>
>>> Check the bypass wiring of the ballast resistor. Check the correct 
>>> wiring of the coil, you would not be te first to have the polarity 
>>> wrong.
>>>
>>> The compression on a freshly rebuild engine is lower than on an 
>>> engine that has been properly run in. It also depends on the 
>>> tolerances and surface finishes used in the rebuild. Assuming that 
>>> it is a proper rebuild the compression should not be an issue here. 
>>> Whatever the compression the engine should start.
>>>
>>> Timing and fuel cannot be spot on as the engine is not running and 
>>> fine tuning of mixture and ignition should be made on a running 
>>> engine.? It is however not an issue either as you set ignition 
>>> initially statically as you do with the adjustment of the carbs and 
>>> it should at least run on that.
>>>
>>> Are the spark plugs wet or dry after churning? Try spraying some 
>>> easy start fluid (mainly Aether) into the throat of the carbs during 
>>> turning over and see if you get some life.? If so it is a fuel issue.
>>>
>>> Good luck.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>> Op 12-6-2023 om 07:41 schreef Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys:
>>>
>>>     Hello
>>>
>>>     No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the
>>>     BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down
>>>     the road failed to instill any life into the engine.
>>>
>>>     Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.
>>>
>>>     Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt
>>>     engine should be?
>>>
>>>     Many thanks
>>>
>>>     Patrick Quinn
>>>
>>>     Blue Mountains, Australia
>>>
>>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Jun 12 10:06:37 2023
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 09:06:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <c3a752ef26526bc2dbbf8a4c2919cf17ed423ee0@webmail>
References: <c3a752ef26526bc2dbbf8a4c2919cf17ed423ee0@webmail>
Message-ID: <833dbc00-7a72-a713-ae4b-d84c789ff344@comcast.net>

Is it possible to install the cam backwards?? It is on some cars.

Mike

On 6/12/23 6:52 AM, Ron Osowski via Healeys wrote:
> Compression reading that low suggests that the cam may not be properly 
> indexed to the crank. Have you double checked the timing chain 
> installation since the rebuild?
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday June 12 2023 2:05:10AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
>
> Hello
>
> No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s 
> rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road 
> failed to instill any life into the engine.
>
> Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.
>
> Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine 
> should be?
>
> Many thanks
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Jun 12 11:42:44 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 17:42:44 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
Message-ID: <a1015e82171562541d0669ed7661cf57edf3cc90@webmail>

Upon assembly of a 100 engine, if you replaced the cam, cam gears
etc.with new parts, the indicated punch mark for the 100 is not
correct. IT IS ONLY CORRECT FOR A 6-CYLINDER engine. You cannot use
the mark and must follow the diagram in the manual and add a mark
after you locate top center to the cam angles. (photo) They do not
sell a cam sprocket for the four cylinder engine and you must correct
the one supplied or your valve timing would be way off as you found
with no compression. You should have 120-150 lbs on each
cylinder-equally-even with an new engine that does not have the rings
seated. After correcting the cam timing be sure that the distributor
is not 180 degrees out. Good luck, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Mike Sinclair" 

To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 12 2023 10:08:09AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

	Is it possible to install the cam backwards? It is on some cars. 

	Mike
 On 6/12/23 6:52 AM, Ron Osowski via Healeys wrote:
  Compression reading that low suggests that the cam may not be
properly indexed to the crank. Have you double checked the timing
chain installation since the rebuild?

	----------------------------------------- From: "Patrick and Caroline
Quinn via Healeys"
 To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Cc:
 Sent: Monday June 12 2023 2:05:10AM
 Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

	Hello 

	No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s
rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road
failed to instill any life into the engine. 

	Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel. 

	Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine
should be? 

	Many thanks 

	Patrick Quinn 

	Blue Mountains, Australia  

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  "http://www.team.net/donate.html">
"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=
 "_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  "http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">
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[1]
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From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Mon Jun 12 17:29:19 2023
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 23:29:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <a1015e82171562541d0669ed7661cf57edf3cc90@webmail>
References: <a1015e82171562541d0669ed7661cf57edf3cc90@webmail>
Message-ID: <TY2PR0101MB276753687C3C1398B9ED1C4B8C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

G?day

Thank you to everyone who responded. Much appreciated.

We will start inspecting next weekend.

Just a reminder that the 100 BN3/1 is Warwick built Austin-Healey and is not a four-cylinder car and is fitted with an early C-series smooth crankcase six-cylinder engine.

When it?s sorted, I will send a message to the list.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2023 3:43 AM
To: 'Mike Sinclair' <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

Upon assembly of a 100 engine, if you replaced the cam, cam gears etc.with new parts, the indicated punch mark for the 100 is not correct. IT IS ONLY CORRECT FOR A 6-CYLINDER engine. You cannot use the mark and must follow the diagram in the manual and add a mark after you locate top center to the cam angles. (photo) They do not sell a cam sprocket for the four cylinder engine and you must correct the one supplied or your valve timing would be way off as you found with no compression. You should have 120-150 lbs on each cylinder-equally-even with an new engine that does not have the rings seated. After correcting the cam timing be sure that the distributor is not 180 degrees out. Good luck, Hank

-----------------------------------------
From: "Mike Sinclair"
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc:
Sent: Monday June 12 2023 10:08:09AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

Is it possible to install the cam backwards?  It is on some cars.

Mike
On 6/12/23 6:52 AM, Ron Osowski via Healeys wrote:
Compression reading that low suggests that the cam may not be properly indexed to the crank. Have you double checked the timing chain installation since the rebuild?

-----------------------------------------
From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys"
To: "healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>"
Cc:
Sent: Monday June 12 2023 2:05:10AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
Hello

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.

Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?

Many thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia


_______________________________________________
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Jun 12 19:17:35 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2023 21:17:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression
In-Reply-To: <TY2PR0101MB276753687C3C1398B9ED1C4B8C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <a1015e82171562541d0669ed7661cf57edf3cc90@webmail>
 <TY2PR0101MB276753687C3C1398B9ED1C4B8C54A@TY2PR0101MB2767.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <01b901d99d94$d60fa350$822ee9f0$@sympatico.ca>

I feel honoured to have commented on such a rare beast!  I am confident it is valve timing and all will become apparent on checking.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Patrick and Caroline Quinn
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 7:29 PM
To: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>; 'Mike Sinclair' <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

 

G?day

 

Thank you to everyone who responded. Much appreciated.

 

We will start inspecting next weekend.

 

Just a reminder that the 100 BN3/1 is Warwick built Austin-Healey and is not a four-cylinder car and is fitted with an early C-series smooth crankcase six-cylinder engine.

 

When it?s sorted, I will send a message to the list.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2023 3:43 AM
To: 'Mike Sinclair' <phoenix722 at comcast.net <mailto:phoenix722 at comcast.net> >
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

 

Upon assembly of a 100 engine, if you replaced the cam, cam gears etc.with new parts, the indicated punch mark for the 100 is not correct. IT IS ONLY CORRECT FOR A 6-CYLINDER engine. You cannot use the mark and must follow the diagram in the manual and add a mark after you locate top center to the cam angles. (photo) They do not sell a cam sprocket for the four cylinder engine and you must correct the one supplied or your valve timing would be way off as you found with no compression. You should have 120-150 lbs on each cylinder-equally-even with an new engine that does not have the rings seated. After correcting the cam timing be sure that the distributor is not 180 degrees out. Good luck, Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Mike Sinclair" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc: 
Sent: Monday June 12 2023 10:08:09AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

Is it possible to install the cam backwards?  It is on some cars.

Mike

On 6/12/23 6:52 AM, Ron Osowski via Healeys wrote:

Compression reading that low suggests that the cam may not be properly indexed to the crank. Have you double checked the timing chain installation since the rebuild?

-----------------------------------------

From: "Patrick and Caroline Quinn via Healeys"
To: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> "
Cc:
Sent: Monday June 12 2023 2:05:10AM
Subject: [Healeys] Rebuilt Engine Compression

Hello

 

No amount of churning over with a new battery will induce the BN3?s rebuilt engine to fire. Even towing the car up and down the road failed to instill any life into the engine.

 

Everything is spot on ? timing, spark and fuel.

 

Anyone have an idea as to what the compression be on a rebuilt engine should be?

 

Many thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia



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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Jun 13 11:30:10 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2023 10:30:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Camshaft rear bearing
Message-ID: <CALPtYiM7VFkyXCQsEKRznHvZ641uygp_yKSNtAVuV2+UFphM3g@mail.gmail.com>

BJ8
Have the engine back plate removed from my car, so can replace the crank
split rear seal.
This query relates to the sealing of the back of the camshaft.
Are there any special techniques that the more experienced amongst us use ?
My impression is that the integrity of the gasket and its sealing is
critical to preventing oil leaks in that area ?
Has anyone perhaps designed or know of a custom insert ?
Thoughts ideas please.
rg
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 14 23:42:37 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2023 22:42:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>

Hello,

 

I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.

 

I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year at the
most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in progress, it has been
even less.

About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did not
tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked out and I
need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.

 

However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the hydraulic
system was completely restored, if it would be wise to rebuild all of the
cylinders in the brake and clutch system.

 

Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and the
flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all three
hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other problems with
the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the clutch line because of
the air leak.

 

What are your thoughts?

 

John Spaur

'62 BT7

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jun 15 00:46:56 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 08:46:56 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <c905ba5e-266c-708b-bd59-d174a098eca6@chello.nl>

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Just check for leakages of the various cylinders and cracks/hardening of 
hoses and repair as necessary.

Replace the brake fluid in the entire system, not only the brake 
reservoir, every two years.

The best maintenance is to use the car regularly.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 15-6-2023 om 07:42 schreef John Spaur via Healeys:
>
> Hello,
>
> I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.
>
> I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year 
> at the most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in 
> progress, it has been even less.
>
> About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did 
> not tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked 
> out and I need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.
>
> However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the 
> hydraulic system was completely restored, if it would be wise to 
> rebuild all of the cylinders in the brake and clutch system.
>
> Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and 
> the flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all 
> three hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other 
> problems with the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the 
> clutch line because of the air leak.
>
> What are your thoughts?
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Jun 15 04:49:46 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 11:49:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Swapping distributors
Message-ID: <000001d99f77$1ae5e960$50b1bc20$@alexarevel.plus.com>

You may recall that I asked if there was an easy method of swapping
distributors ie doing it at the roadside without being overly troubled by
timing issues.

Replies varied.

In the end, I bought another base plate which I put onto my spare Lucas
(points).

I marked the base plate of the 123 and the top of the turret upon which it
sat. ie so there was a datum(?) point to which to return. Used a Dremel.

I did the same for the Lucas after getting it timed. I made the marks on the
other side ie to the left of the distributor.

I removed the Lucas, located the 123 back on its mark and, hey presto, it
works.

 

One surprise
in my ignorance, I thought that, if the 123?s rotor arm faced
at, say, 12 o?clock, then so would the Lucas?. Both could only align one way
with their gears? physical connection to the turret upon which they sit??
Well, yes, the gears could only align identically but the rotor arms were
about 30? out. ie  123?s at 12 o?clock and the Lucas? at +/- 2 o?clock. Both
are working at 15?/idle

.Who?d have guessed it? 

 

One other thing
..I was going to put my Pertronix back into the Lucas. Can?t
have two electronic ignitions fail in one day, can you? However, it seems
that I?d put points back in because I?d lost the collar (?magnetic ring?).
Actually, I forget what I did, but it?s gone anyhow. Like my memory perhaps.
My unit is marked LU-165. I don?t suppose anyone has a spare one?? 

Simon

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Thu Jun 15 05:49:01 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 07:49:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007401d99f7f$60b70390$22250ab0$@sympatico.ca>

John,  I generally believe in the axiom, "don't fix it unless it is broken".
If your wheel cylinder/caliper/master cylinder seals are not leaking and the
hoses are not hardened, and your brake lines are not rusted, then I would
just refill with DOT3 or DOT4 fluid and bleed it.  I have not done a
complete brake system overhaul for at least 25 years, but have replaced a
wheel cylinder, that is all.

 

Best, Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Spaur via
Healeys
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2023 1:43 AM
To: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance

 

Hello,

 

I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.

 

I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year at the
most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in progress, it has been
even less.

About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did not
tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked out and I
need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.

 

However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the hydraulic
system was completely restored, if it would be wise to rebuild all of the
cylinders in the brake and clutch system.

 

Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and the
flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all three
hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other problems with
the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the clutch line because of
the air leak.

 

What are your thoughts?

 

John Spaur

'62 BT7

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From rmarkovich at aol.com  Thu Jun 15 05:58:53 2023
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 11:58:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1931578316.332900.1686830333384@mail.yahoo.com>

I?d certainly flush and change the hydraulic fluid?and keep on doing so every two years as this is an age and not a mileage issue, much like motor oil (every three months)?and coolant (every year). Use a good low moisture absorption fluid such as Castrol, DOT 4. Vintage cars don?t seem to like the DOT 5 synthetic stuff, which tends to ooze out. And definitely change the brake and clutch hoses, preferably to steel-braid reinforced. I?d certainly change the clutch slave cylinder as that?s easy?and consider swapping out the rest of the master/slave and calipers as well.?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, June 15, 2023, 1:58 AM, John Spaur via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

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Hello,

 ?

I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.

 ?

I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year at the most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in progress, it has been even less.

About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did not tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked out and I need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.

 ?

However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the hydraulic system was completely restored, if it would be wise to rebuild all of the cylinders in the brake and clutch system.

 ?

Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and the flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all three hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other problems with the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the clutch line because of the air leak.

 ?

What are your thoughts?

 ?

John Spaur

?62 BT7
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 15 06:09:40 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 05:09:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <ac51137c-befa-d520-de99-480b658f3f7e@comcast.net>

Hi John,

My take? Flush and bleed the system and, if the fluid isn't really dark 
or viscous and doesn't have any gunk in it take a day trip. When you get 
back, check everywhere--M/Cs and slave cyls., hoses, etc.--for any leaks 
and if none, and the brakes work OK let it be. If you use glycol fluid 
(DoT3/4) there's an outside chance the fluid could have gelled but that 
would be evident when you flush; then you'd want to do a full rebuild.

Please send $0.02 ;)

Bob


On 6/14/2023 10:42 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.
>
> I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year 
> at the most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in 
> progress, it has been even less.
>
> About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did 
> not tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked 
> out and I need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.
>
> However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the 
> hydraulic system was completely restored, if it would be wise to 
> rebuild all of the cylinders in the brake and clutch system.
>
> Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and 
> the flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all 
> three hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other 
> problems with the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the 
> clutch line because of the air leak.
>
> What are your thoughts?
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jun 15 06:37:52 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 08:37:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK=F=GBPqoLe-G5bQDdKK1KS3M7Nx0O0TXx5tmK-ypajA@mail.gmail.com>

Although some of the drivers handbooks recommended changing the fluid every
3 years and all the seals and hoses every 6 years or so  I, like Mirek,
I've never bothered and have had no significant issues.
That said however your clutch system, having been dry for some time, will
most likely require new seals as they get a bit "crusty" when left exposed
to the air for long periods.
BTW ...NEVER hone aluminium cylinders. They have a hard anodised coating
inside the bores which honing will destroy. The remaining unanodized
aluminium is too soft for use as a cylinder bore.

M


On Thu., Jun. 15, 2023, 1:47 a.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
>
>
> I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.
>
>
>
> I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year at
> the most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in progress, it has
> been even less.
>
> About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did not
> tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked out and I
> need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.
>
>
>
> However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the
> hydraulic system was completely restored, if it would be wise to rebuild
> all of the cylinders in the brake and clutch system.
>
>
>
> Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and the
> flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all three
> hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other problems
> with the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the clutch line
> because of the air leak.
>
>
>
> What are your thoughts?
>
>
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Thu Jun 15 10:19:26 2023
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 17:19:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Swapping distributors
In-Reply-To: <000001d99f77$1ae5e960$50b1bc20$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d99f77$1ae5e960$50b1bc20$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVaSaAUUB-XJhVrZ4JYELgaXkw1_GVY-WYV6n29kGpD1A@mail.gmail.com>

I have an interesting story along the same lines where a distributor worked
loose and jumped out of mesh. This had an early single bolt fixing to the
block and these were prone to slipping.

The timing was therefore completely out and I needed to get the
distributor lining up with the number one cylinder. I then used an old
trick to get the engine on TDC on the compression stroke. The trick is to
remove the spark plug from the number one cylinder and place the thumb over
the hole. After a few attempts engaging the starter it was possible to
judge when to stop cranking on the compression stroke. After replacing the
plug and making sure that the distributor rotor was pointing at the correct
plug lead the distributor was replaced: allowing for the spiral action
as it was inserted. Fortunately, the engine then started and approximately
the correct timing was managed by turning to get the best idle.

This got me home

All the best

On Thu, 15 Jun 2023 at 12:11, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> You may recall that I asked if there was an easy method of swapping
> distributors ie doing it at the roadside without being overly troubled by
> timing issues.
>
> Replies varied.
>
> In the end, I bought another base plate which I put onto my spare Lucas
> (points).
>
> I marked the base plate of the 123 and the top of the turret upon which it
> sat. ie so there was a datum(?) point to which to return. Used a Dremel.
>
> I did the same for the Lucas after getting it timed. I made the marks on
> the other side ie to the left of the distributor.
>
> I removed the Lucas, located the 123 back on its mark and, hey presto, it
> works.
>
>
>
> One surprise?in my ignorance, I thought that, if the 123?s rotor arm faced
> at, say, 12 o?clock, then so would the Lucas?. Both could only align one
> way with their gears? physical connection to the turret upon which they
> sit?? Well, yes, the gears could only align identically but the rotor arms
> were about 30? out. ie  123?s at 12 o?clock and the Lucas? at +/- 2
> o?clock. Both are working at 15?/idle??.Who?d have guessed it?
>
>
>
> One other thing?..I was going to put my Pertronix back into the Lucas.
> Can?t have two electronic ignitions fail in one day, can you? However, it
> seems that I?d put points back in because I?d lost the collar (?magnetic
> ring?). Actually, I forget what I did, but it?s gone anyhow. Like my memory
> perhaps. My unit is marked LU-165. I don?t suppose anyone has a spare one??
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jun 15 12:19:02 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 18:19:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK=F=GBPqoLe-G5bQDdKK1KS3M7Nx0O0TXx5tmK-ypajA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LK=F=GBPqoLe-G5bQDdKK1KS3M7Nx0O0TXx5tmK-ypajA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1160921985.426235.1686853142084@mail.yahoo.com>

 Has anyone found a source for new aluminum cylinders that are anodized? I read that the way to test them is to measure the continuity of the surface. Anodized won't conduct. I checked a few & either they were not anodized or if they were they bored out the cylinder after anodizing. Is it possible that if the bore is smooth/polished, as opposed to honing which is coarse, the rubber seal will last as long as it would in an anodized bore? And the bore should last long enough (years, decades) since it is harder that the rubber seal.Gary Hodson??
    On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 08:58:42 AM CDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: 
 Although some of the drivers handbooks recommended changing the fluid every 3 years and all the seals and hoses every 6 years or so? I, like Mirek, I've never bothered and have had no significant issues.That said however your clutch system, having been dry for some time, will most likely require new seals as they get a bit "crusty" when left exposed to the air for long periods.BTW ...NEVER hone aluminium cylinders. They have a hard anodised coating inside the bores which honing will destroy. The remaining unanodized aluminium is too soft for use as a cylinder bore.
M

On Thu., Jun. 15, 2023, 1:47 a.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hello,

?

I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.

?

I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year at the most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in progress, it has been even less.

About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did not tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked out and I need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.

?

However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the hydraulic system was completely restored, if it would be wise to rebuild all of the cylinders in the brake and clutch system.

?

Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and the flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all three hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other problems with the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the clutch line because of the air leak.

?

What are your thoughts?

?

John Spaur

?62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 15 18:22:46 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2023 17:22:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Swapping distributors
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLVaSaAUUB-XJhVrZ4JYELgaXkw1_GVY-WYV6n29kGpD1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001d99f77$1ae5e960$50b1bc20$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAL28cLVaSaAUUB-XJhVrZ4JYELgaXkw1_GVY-WYV6n29kGpD1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d85fb427-e1cb-62d4-7f93-585e047caa36@comcast.net>

I'll repeat a story I've told before, just for 'color.'

I once knew an aircraft mechanic who used this 'technique' to find TDC 
on an aircraft engine. He bumped the starter just a tad too much and 
ripped all the flesh off the end of his thumb (to be fair, aircraft 
spark plugs and hence their holes are a bit larger than auto plugs).

Bob

On 6/15/2023 9:19 AM, john harper wrote:
> I have an interesting story along the same lines where a distributor 
> worked loose and jumped out of mesh. This had an early single bolt 
> fixing to the block and these were prone to slipping.
>
> The timing was therefore completely?out and I needed to get the 
> distributor?lining up with the number one cylinder. I then used an old 
> trick to get the engine on TDC on the compression?stroke. The trick is 
> to remove the spark plug from the number one cylinder and place the 
> thumb over the hole. After a few attempts engaging the starter it was 
> possible to judge when to stop cranking on the compression stroke. 
> After replacing the plug and making sure that the distributor rotor 
> was pointing at the correct plug lead the distributor was replaced: 
> allowing for the spiral action as?it was inserted. Fortunately, the 
> engine?then started and approximately the correct timing was 
> managed?by turning to get the best idle.
>
> This got me home
>
> All the best
>
> On Thu, 15 Jun 2023 at 12:11, Simon Lachlan via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     You may recall that I asked if there was an easy method of
>     swapping distributors ie doing it at the roadside without being
>     overly troubled by timing issues.
>
>     Replies varied.
>
>     In the end, I bought another base plate which I put onto my spare
>     Lucas (points).
>
>     I marked the base plate of the 123 and the top of the turret upon
>     which it sat. ie so there was a datum(?) point to which to return.
>     Used a Dremel.
>
>     I did the same for the Lucas after getting it timed. I made the
>     marks on the other side ie to the left of the distributor.
>
>     I removed the Lucas, located the 123 back on its mark and, hey
>     presto, it works.
>
>     One surprise?in my ignorance, I thought that, if the 123?s rotor
>     arm faced at, say, 12 o?clock, then so would the Lucas?. Both
>     could only align one way with their gears? physical connection to
>     the turret upon which they sit?? Well, yes, the gears could only
>     align identically but the rotor arms were about 30? out. ie ?123?s
>     at 12 o?clock and the Lucas? at +/- 2 o?clock. Both are working at
>     15?/idle??.Who?d have guessed it?
>
>     One other thing?..I was going to put my Pertronix back into the
>     Lucas. Can?t have two electronic ignitions fail in one day, can
>     you? However, it seems that I?d put points back in because I?d
>     lost the collar (?magnetic ring?). Actually, I forget what I did,
>     but it?s gone anyhow. Like my memory perhaps. My unit is marked
>     LU-165. I don?t suppose anyone has a spare one??
>
>     Simon
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Jun 16 07:25:25 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2023 13:25:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hydraulic system maintenance
In-Reply-To: <1160921985.426235.1686853142084@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d99f4c$31c49d00$954dd700$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LK=F=GBPqoLe-G5bQDdKK1KS3M7Nx0O0TXx5tmK-ypajA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1160921985.426235.1686853142084@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1344177689.699529.1686921925434@mail.yahoo.com>

 I should have said I was specifically asking about anodized aluminum? master cylinders.Gary Hodson?
    On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 03:59:34 PM CDT, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
  Has anyone found a source for new aluminum cylinders that are anodized? I read that the way to test them is to measure the continuity of the surface. Anodized won't conduct. I checked a few & either they were not anodized or if they were they bored out the cylinder after anodizing. Is it possible that if the bore is smooth/polished, as opposed to honing which is coarse, the rubber seal will last as long as it would in an anodized bore? And the bore should last long enough (years, decades) since it is harder that the rubber seal.Gary Hodson??
    On Thursday, June 15, 2023 at 08:58:42 AM CDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: 
 Although some of the drivers handbooks recommended changing the fluid every 3 years and all the seals and hoses every 6 years or so? I, like Mirek, I've never bothered and have had no significant issues.That said however your clutch system, having been dry for some time, will most likely require new seals as they get a bit "crusty" when left exposed to the air for long periods.BTW ...NEVER hone aluminium cylinders. They have a hard anodised coating inside the bores which honing will destroy. The remaining unanodized aluminium is too soft for use as a cylinder bore.
M

On Thu., Jun. 15, 2023, 1:47 a.m. John Spaur via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Hello,

?

I am seeking the collective wisdom of my fellow Austin-Healey owners.

?

I restored my BT7 10 years ago and I drive it about 500 miles a year at the most. In the last few years, while the pandemic was in progress, it has been even less.

About a year ago I installed a remote clutch bleeder tube and I did not tighten the bleed nipple sufficiently. As a result, fluid leaked out and I need to bleed the air out of the clutch system.

?

However, I was wondering, because it has been ten years since the hydraulic system was completely restored, if it would be wise to rebuild all of the cylinders in the brake and clutch system.

?

Also, would it be wise to replace the front caliper flexible hoses and the flexible hose under the jumper seats. It should be noted that all three hoses do not seem to have hardened and there are not any other problems with the hydraulic system other than having to bleed the clutch line because of the air leak.

?

What are your thoughts?

?

John Spaur

?62 BT7
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 19 08:12:24 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2023 14:12:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 cam timing gear
References: <526636081.1469711.1687183944456.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <526636081.1469711.1687183944456@mail.yahoo.com>

I recently discovered that I have a redundant 100 cam timing gear that I ordered from Denis Welch. Part #CENG649V. It is their vernier timing gear. It is new, unused. I am offering it at $120 (less than half price) plus $28 shipping to anywhere in the USA.Gary Hodson?
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From warthodson at aol.com  Mon Jun 19 19:18:12 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 01:18:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>

I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we get past it?Gary Hodson
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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Mon Jun 19 21:07:09 2023
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2023 23:07:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdhu2EHpbcJjcCx0wDAGD-SZP0GUfgtofJZfyv+eVur5Lg@mail.gmail.com>

Lining up the splines in the OD.
Elton

On Mon, Jun 19, 2023 at 9:52?PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
> replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any
> issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the
> trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
> get past it?
> Gary Hodson
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jun 19 21:08:54 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2023 20:08:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>

There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get 
that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8

You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable 
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower 
the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First 
time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this 
(see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then 
threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, 
is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique 
I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump 
completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and 
rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then 
had two of his mechanics pull the sections together with huge 
channellock pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' 
(you had to be there).

Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or 
you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.

bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his 
> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled 
> to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run 
> into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of 
> mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that 
> the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up 
> against & how do we get past it?
> Gary Hodson
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun 20 05:43:43 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 07:43:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>

Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare
gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special
tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
 it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.

M

On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
wrote:

> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get
> that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>
> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>
> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
> 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the
> gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I
> did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see
> attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
> towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a
> half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's
> only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and
> tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
> mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while
> David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).
>
> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or
> you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.
>
> bs
>
> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
> replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any
> issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the
> trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
> get past it?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jun 20 08:13:41 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 14:13:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1500117148.1876632.1687270421944@mail.yahoo.com>

 Michael,We do have a spare trans output shaft & we have watched your video & made a wire tool to retract the pump plunger. We have verified that the plunger is fully retracted & the splines are aligned. The spare shaft goes in about 1/2" (all the way in) further than the one that came out of the car.?Gary
    On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 07:12:20 AM CDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retractedhttps://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/?it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.?
M
On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
 
 https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
 
 You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).
 
 Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.
 
 bs
 
 On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
  
  I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we get past it? Gary Hodson  
 
 
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun 20 08:52:30 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 10:52:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <1500117148.1876632.1687270421944@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1500117148.1876632.1687270421944@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+_uJaVffVRxbQhqP2dyaQ6pdMNts7=FyXRLPdt17=BqA@mail.gmail.com>

Well that's a new one on me Bob. I have installed dozens of overdrive units
and never encountered that problem.
Obviously it would tend to indicate some kind of dimensional difference
between the 2 gearbox shafts but I'm sure that you would have checked that.
Please let me know if you find out what the problem is.

M


On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 10:15?AM warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
wrote:

> Michael,
> We do have a spare trans output shaft & we have watched your video & made
> a wire tool to retract the pump plunger. We have verified that the plunger
> is fully retracted & the splines are aligned. The spare shaft goes in about
> 1/2" (all the way in) further than the one that came out of the car.
> Gary
>
> On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 07:12:20 AM CDT, Michael Salter <
> michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare
> gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special
> tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>
> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get
> that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>
> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>
> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
> 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the
> gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I
> did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see
> attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
> towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a
> half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's
> only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and
> tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
> mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while
> David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).
>
> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or
> you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.
>
> bs
>
> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
> replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any
> issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the
> trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
> get past it?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Tue Jun 20 09:42:40 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 08:42:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com>

A few minor corrections ...
Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare shaft -
I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange and
the OD.
I also use the wire/twine technique.

Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is
an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt -
actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of
large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on
you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter
ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies
that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark
but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done
inserting it the wrong way around.

Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter
plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the
release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring retention all
together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment after some careful
threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used this a few times
lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !
rg


On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare
> gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special
> tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>
> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
>> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get
>> that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>>
>> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>>
>> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
>> 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the
>> gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I
>> did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see
>> attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
>> towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a
>> half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
>> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's
>> only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and
>> tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
>> mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while
>> David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).
>>
>> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or
>> you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.
>>
>> bs
>>
>> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
>> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
>> replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any
>> issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the
>> trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
>> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
>> get past it?
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 20 09:47:28 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 08:47:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <18d5ce37-7dfb-91b4-057f-01b1ba741677@comcast.net>

re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. 
It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 
bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a 
selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it 
does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws 
that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be 
removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large 
accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the 
correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if 
lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around."


Roger,

Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so 
missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).

Bob


On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> A few minor corrections ...
> Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare 
> shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
> I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
> However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange 
> and the OD.
> I also use the wire/twine technique.
>
> Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It 
> is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 
> bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a 
> selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it 
> does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws 
> that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be 
> removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large 
> accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in 
> the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong 
> if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way 
> around.
>
> Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter 
> plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the 
> release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring 
> retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment 
> after some careful threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used 
> this a few times lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. 
> Patience !
> rg
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03?AM Michael Salter 
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
>     spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
>     The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my
>     special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>     https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>     ?it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>
>     M
>
>     On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,
>     <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>         There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly
>         centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>
>         https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>
>         You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a
>         suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D
>         on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the
>         gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I must have got
>         lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see attached photo).
>         Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
>         towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is
>         only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel
>         technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
>         removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and
>         split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the
>         gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
>         mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock
>         pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in'
>         (you had to be there).
>
>         Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented
>         correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process
>         than you probably want.
>
>         bs
>
>         On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>         I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to
>>         his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive &
>>         Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts
>>         which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get
>>         the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but
>>         cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
>>         roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
>>         against & how do we get past it?
>>         Gary Hodson
>>
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jun 20 09:55:08 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 11:55:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <18d5ce37-7dfb-91b4-057f-01b1ba741677@comcast.net>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com>
 <18d5ce37-7dfb-91b4-057f-01b1ba741677@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLfUKkRsJszvT=aT2Bhnf245n9mUf5Ter-61CC04b5ZqA@mail.gmail.com>

Point of interest  ... there's actually a special tool for removing the
pump.
I think I've only ever used it once!!



On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
wrote:

> re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws.
> It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt
> - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of
> large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on
> you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter
> ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies
> that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
> the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark
> but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done
> inserting it the wrong way around."
>
>
> Roger,
>
> Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so missed
> many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>
> A few minor corrections ...
> Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare shaft -
> I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
> I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
> However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange and
> the OD.
> I also use the wire/twine technique.
>
> Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is
> an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt -
> actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of
> large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on
> you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter
> ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies
> that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
> the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark
> but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done
> inserting it the wrong way around.
>
> Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter
> plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the
> release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring retention all
> together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment after some careful
> threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used this a few times
> lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !
> rg
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare
>> gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
>> The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special
>> tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>>
>> https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>>  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get
>>> that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>>>
>>> https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>>>
>>> You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
>>> 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the
>>> gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I
>>> did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see
>>> attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the
>>> towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a
>>> half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
>>> heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's
>>> only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and
>>> tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
>>> mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while
>>> David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).
>>>
>>> Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or
>>> you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.
>>>
>>> bs
>>>
>>> On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>>
>>> I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
>>> transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to
>>> replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any
>>> issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the
>>> trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump
>>> roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
>>> get past it?
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>
>>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jun 20 10:11:19 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 09:11:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLfUKkRsJszvT=aT2Bhnf245n9mUf5Ter-61CC04b5ZqA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com>
 <18d5ce37-7dfb-91b4-057f-01b1ba741677@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLfUKkRsJszvT=aT2Bhnf245n9mUf5Ter-61CC04b5ZqA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f54c93b6-34f3-25ca-a69c-b736f0765243@comcast.net>

Reminds me ... Decades ago, there was a 'meme'--before memes were a 
thing--consisting of an image of all the 'special tools' BMC insisted a 
mechanic needed to work on their cars. There was a picture of every 
tool, next to an 'equal' sign and ... a hammer. I had a copy of it, 
always good for a chuckle, but that computer was stolen; anyone still 
have it?


On 6/20/2023 8:55 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Point of interest? ... there's actually a special tool for removing 
> the pump.
> I think I've only ever used it once!!
>
>
>
> On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> 
> wrote:
>
>     re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
>     screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
>     a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
>     easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are
>     required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
>     longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones
>     mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn
>     implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is
>     out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct
>     orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
>     lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
>     around."
>
>
>     Roger,
>
>     Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance
>     so missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).
>
>     Bob
>
>
>     On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
>>     A few minor corrections ...
>>     Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a
>>     spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !
>>     I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.
>>     However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor
>>     flange and the OD.
>>     I also use the wire/twine technique.
>>
>>     Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
>>     screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
>>     a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
>>     easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are
>>     required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some
>>     longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones
>>     mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn
>>     implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is
>>     out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct
>>     orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if
>>     lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
>>     around.
>>
>>     Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the
>>     adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to
>>     fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil
>>     pump spring retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the
>>     bl alignment after some careful threading to pull back the pump
>>     spring. I have used this a few times lowering onto the GB and
>>     also even on its side. Patience !
>>     rg
>>
>>
>>     On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03?AM Michael Salter
>>     <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>         Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute
>>         for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
>>         The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then,
>>         using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted
>>         https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
>>         ?it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.
>>
>>         M
>>
>>         On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,
>>         <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>             There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly
>>             centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):
>>
>>             https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
>>
>>             You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use
>>             a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit
>>             the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently
>>             rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did
>>             this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
>>             this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a
>>             couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and
>>             O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away.
>>             David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not
>>             heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump
>>             completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D
>>             into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and
>>             O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics
>>             pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers
>>             while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you
>>             had to be there).
>>
>>             Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam
>>             oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with
>>             this process than you probably want.
>>
>>             bs
>>
>>             On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>>             I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD
>>>             to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive
>>>             & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans
>>>             parts which was done & we did not run into any issues.
>>>             We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating
>>>             to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have
>>>             confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully
>>>             retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we
>>>             get past it?
>>>             Gary Hodson
>>>
>>
>>             _______________________________________________
>>             Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>             Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>             http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>             Healeys at autox.team.net
>>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>             Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun 20 10:39:56 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 16:39:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
Message-ID: <7b20dcf8c1c81e28189199deb5d67d3aa8f36742@webmail>

Agree with Michael- dummy or old mainshaft is essential to line up
innards then if cam is correctly placed-facing rear, and plunger is
tied back, units go together easily by a slight wiggle of 1st motion
(in gear) and tailshaft first insuring that the 8 springs are all on
their pegs-easy huh? Its about procedure. Article Im composing on
overdrive will be in upcoming AH Mag. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 5:01:51AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

 Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. The spare shaft is used
to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the
pump plunger retracted  
[1]https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.  
 M  
 On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to
get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

 [3]https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8 [4]

 You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower
the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First
time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days
then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which,
fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a
novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the
O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D
up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections
together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output
shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

 Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly,
or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably
want.

 bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
   I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled
to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run
into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of
mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that
the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
against & how do we get past it? Gary Hodson  

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [5]http://www.team.net/donate.html [6]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [7]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [8] 
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Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
[13]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
[14]

  

Links:
------
[1]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[3] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[4] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[5] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[6] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[7] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[8] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[9] http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
[10] http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
[11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[13]
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[14]
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun 20 10:46:12 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 16:46:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
Message-ID: <752436070d1228424a9bf07d3204ee76612486e5@webmail>

Be sure that the 8 (4 of each size) springs are correctly placed or
they will be coil bound and resist assembly. See photo. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "warthodson--- via
Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell", "Michael Salter"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 9:15:12AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

  Michael, We do have a spare trans output shaft & we have watched
your video & made a wire tool to retract the pump plunger. We have
verified that the plunger is fully retracted & the splines are
aligned. The spare shaft goes in about 1/2" (all the way in) further
than the one that came out of the car.  Gary 
    On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 07:12:20 AM CDT, Michael Salter 
wrote: 

    Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. The spare shaft is used
to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the
pump plunger retracted 
[1]https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.  
 M  
  On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to
get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

 [3]https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8 [4]

 You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower
the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First
time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days
then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which,
fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a
novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the
O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D
up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections
together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output
shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

 Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly,
or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably
want.

 bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
   I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled
to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run
into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of
mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that
the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
against & how do we get past it? Gary Hodson  

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [5]http://www.team.net/donate.html [6]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [7]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [8] 
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 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [17]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [18] 
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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[24]

    

Links:
------
[1]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[3] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[4] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[5] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Jun 20 12:26:44 2023
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 14:26:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00aa01d9a3a4$c46e5770$4d4b0650$@rr.com>

Although not exactly elegant, the attached photo shows the O/D spline alignment tool I made.  Worked just fine.   It is pushed in to reach the rear set  of splines and turned to line those up with the forward set of splines.   When the splines are in alignment, the tool can be pushed back and forth to check that both sets are in alignment.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2023 7:44 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

 

Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.

The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted

https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/

 it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox. 

 

M

 

On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8

You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.

bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:

I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we get past it?

Gary Hodson

 

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun 20 13:13:20 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 19:13:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
Message-ID: <023ae9506fc8d113939d49c7b6339ac48b2d2a72@webmail>

You don't have to disassemble the OD to put in the 8 springs and
cam-they are the last items to add prior to mating the units..
However, if you pulled out the mainshaft from it, and then moved it
around it's a good chance that the thrust washers in the clutch area
are out of alignment and that geartrain must be realigned before the
unit will go tight. Don't force anything-best take it apart and check
for issues then reassemble.

	-----------------------------------------From: "warthodson at aol.com" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 10:54:02AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

  Hank, We never disassembled the OD.  Gary 
    On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 11:46:16 AM CDT, Hank Leach  wrote: 

   Be sure that the 8 (4 of each size) springs are correctly placed or
they will be coil bound and resist assembly. See photo. Hank

	----------------------------------------- From: "warthodson--- via
Healeys"
 To: "Bob Spidell", "Michael Salter"
 Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
 Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 9:15:12AM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

 Michael, We do have a spare trans output shaft & we have watched your
video & made a wire tool to retract the pump plunger. We have verified
that the plunger is fully retracted & the splines are aligned. The
spare shaft goes in about 1/2" (all the way in) further than the one
that came out of the car.  Gary 
     On Tuesday, June 20, 2023 at 07:12:20 AM CDT, Michael Salter 
wrote: 

    Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. The spare shaft is used
to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the
pump plunger retracted  [1]
[2]https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[3]  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.  
 M  
  On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to
get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

 [4] [5]https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8 [6]

 You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower
the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First
time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days
then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which,
fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a
novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the
O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D
up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections
together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output
shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

 Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly,
or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably
want.

 bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
   I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled
to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run
into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of
mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that
the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
against & how do we get past it? Gary Hodson  

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [7] [8]http://www.team.net/donate.html [9]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [10] [11]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [12]  [13]
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[21]

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 Support Team.Net  [22] [23]http://www.team.net/donate.html [24]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [25] [26]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [27]  [28]
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 Unsubscribe/Manage:  [34]
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[36]

          

Links:
------
[1]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[3]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[4] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[5] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[6] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[7] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[8] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Jun 20 14:41:10 2023
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 16:41:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
In-Reply-To: <f54c93b6-34f3-25ca-a69c-b736f0765243@comcast.net>
References: <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2069138282.1712999.1687223892248@mail.yahoo.com>
 <30f737e0-fc31-5759-a000-72f2aea50bd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKj45V2s4W_Bv2y8ZWq9+FZousKvVqJ4NdJrpObqq_PRA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiO9+MPiR5oAUyU+FfTZkzCg7tPXsNAxaB-O_dvXBD8o+A@mail.gmail.com>
 <18d5ce37-7dfb-91b4-057f-01b1ba741677@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLfUKkRsJszvT=aT2Bhnf245n9mUf5Ter-61CC04b5ZqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <f54c93b6-34f3-25ca-a69c-b736f0765243@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000501d9a3b7$8c848ce0$a58da6a0$@verizon.net>

It is on my site on the British Humor page. Gotta scroll down a bit to see it.

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2023 12:11 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

 

Reminds me ... Decades ago, there was a 'meme'--before memes were a thing--consisting of an image of all the 'special tools' BMC insisted a mechanic needed to work on their cars. There was a picture of every tool, next to an 'equal' sign and ... a hammer. I had a copy of it, always good for a chuckle, but that computer was stolen; anyone still have it?



On 6/20/2023 8:55 AM, Michael Salter wrote:

Point of interest  ... there's actually a special tool for removing the pump. 

I think I've only ever used it once!!

 

 

 

On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around."


Roger,

Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago). 

Bob



On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:

A few minor corrections ...

Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !

I have made his special tool and can confirm it does work.

However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor flange and the OD.

I also use the wire/twine technique.

 

Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way around.

 

Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment after some careful threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used this a few times lowering onto the GB and also even on its side. Patience !

rg

 

 

On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. 

The spare shaft is used to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the pump plunger retracted

https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/

 it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox. 

 

M

 

On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8

You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable 'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably want.

bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:

I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we get past it?

Gary Hodson

 

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jun 20 16:07:59 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2023 22:07:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission
Message-ID: <d95a4cc6e9bcad18240188843a52ac8c549a6f5b@webmail>

I fashioned this one, for lack of the factory tool. It is the best way
to remove the pump without damage. Its an interference fit. Yes, you
must first remove the non-return valve, spring ball and plunger or
else damage to the pump shaft will take place. When replacing the pump
use two long fine thread screws to guide to the correct position
When assembling the two units I leave the drain plug and screen filter
out so that the wire holding back the pump plunger can easily be
extracted after the units are mated. Seal the threads of the drain as
with just a gasket it will still leak. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via
Healeys" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 12:56:10PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission

 Point of interest ... there's actually a special tool for removing
the pump. I think I've only ever used it once!! 

 On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48 a.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a
7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier.
Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure
that it does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32
screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST
be removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large
accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in
the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong
if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
around."

 Roger,

 Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so
missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).

 Bob

On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
   A few minor corrections ... Yes MS is correct there is simply no
substitute for having a spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine
every evening ! I have made his special tool and can confirm it does
work. However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor
flange and the OD. I also use the wire/twine technique.

 Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2 screws.
It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a 7/16 - 20
bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it easier. Also a
selection of large washers and spacers are required. To ensure that it
does not twist on you you need some longer about 1/12 in 8-32 screws
that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also the NR valve MUST be
removed and this in turn implies that the hydraulic cover and large
accumulator spring is out. Furthermore the pump has to be fitted in
the correct orientation. I try to make a mark but easy to get it wrong
if lying on your back. Damage can be done inserting it the wrong way
around. 
 Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the
adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to fight
with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil pump spring
retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl alignment
after some careful threading to pull back the pump spring. I have used
this a few times lowering onto the GB and also even on its side.
Patience !
 rg

 On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03?AM Michael Salter  wrote:
  Although one may be difficult to find there is no substitute for a
spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job. The spare shaft is used
to align all the internals then, using my special tool to hold the
pump plunger retracted 
[1]https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]  it is a simple task to lower the overdrive onto the gearbox.  
 M  
 On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41 p.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly centered to
get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):

 [3]https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8 [4]

 You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and lower
the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while lowering. First
time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged if I can explain
this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought for a couple days
then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D to BCS which,
fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his mechanics had a
novel technique I've not heard described anywhere; basically, he
removed the pump completely--it's only two screws IIRC--and split the
O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the gearbox and O/D
up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his mechanics pull the sections
together with huge channellock pliers while David rotated the output
shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be there).

 Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented correctly,
or you'll get more experience with this process than you probably
want.

 bs

On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
   I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate his OD to his
transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive & Trans. were pulled
to replace a few internal trans parts which was done & we did not run
into any issues. We can get the OD to within approx. 1/2-3/4" of
mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap. We have confirmed that
the oil pump roller has been fully retracted. What are we bumping up
against & how do we get past it? Gary Hodson  

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [5]http://www.team.net/donate.html [6]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [7]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [8] 
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[24]

   

Links:
------
[1]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[2]
https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/
[3] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[4] https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8
[5] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[6] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[7] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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[12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[13]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
[14]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
[15] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[16] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[17] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Jun 21 11:01:24 2023
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2023 18:01:24 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Emerson
Message-ID: <8d0c0996-1510-3196-655b-4ac32b8b7527@summaventures.com>

I am trying to reach Bill, who I haven't seen or been in contact with 
for many years. Does anyone know of his whereabouts?

Thanks for any help,

Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Jun 21 14:57:47 2023
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2023 16:57:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Emerson
In-Reply-To: <8d0c0996-1510-3196-655b-4ac32b8b7527@summaventures.com>
References: <8d0c0996-1510-3196-655b-4ac32b8b7527@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <9487d65b-a2c9-6228-1aaa-d7d9eee75ee2@earthlink.net>

Peter,

Bill lives in Floral City Florida.? We got to tour his house to see his 
various collections of Healey 'stuff' during this year's Conclave.

Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar

On 6/21/23 13:01, Peter Dzwig via Healeys wrote:
> I am trying to reach Bill, who I haven't seen or been in contact with 
> for many years. Does anyone know of his whereabouts?
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Peter

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 21 20:35:21 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2023 19:35:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
References: <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$@sbcglobal.net>

I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I opened the
piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow rings. Shouldn't
there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up two ring sets for the
piston?

 

John Spaur

'62 BT7 

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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Thu Jun 22 02:36:29 2023
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 09:36:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bill Emerson
In-Reply-To: <8d0c0996-1510-3196-655b-4ac32b8b7527@summaventures.com>
References: <8d0c0996-1510-3196-655b-4ac32b8b7527@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <0c633b3a-bd4c-f1e0-b385-05349cf1186b@summaventures.com>

Jean, Richard, Bob,

Many thanks.

Peter

On 21/06/2023 18:01, Peter Dzwig via Healeys wrote:
> I am trying to reach Bill, who I haven't seen or been in contact with 
> for many years. Does anyone know of his whereabouts?
> 
> Thanks for any help,
> 
> Peter

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 22 07:30:20 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 06:30:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
In-Reply-To: <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <5da12843-89d2-1034-2230-cc52af267512@comcast.net>

I have the DWM 'uprated' accumulator set; the housing has an O-ring and 
the piston has four equally-sized metal rings. Don't recall any others, 
but don't think it was any different than the OEM one I took out.

Too late now, but had I known of it I might have bought the AH Spares 
version with O-ring(s?) on the piston instead of metal rings. The metal 
rings will score the accumulator bore eventually.



On 6/21/2023 7:35 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I 
> opened the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow 
> rings. Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up 
> two ring sets for the piston?
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Jun 22 09:01:57 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 08:01:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiMhN6Rz2kwpN=tLiHqPw56VD32GJ2LkA31CibzwUQ7aNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <5da12843-89d2-1034-2230-cc52af267512@comcast.net>
 <CALPtYiMhN6Rz2kwpN=tLiHqPw56VD32GJ2LkA31CibzwUQ7aNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNKEGc81xhm1qvGXTuc89L+=Tf5AG8Nojptw+2BDS3QTg@mail.gmail.com>

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Date: Thu, Jun 22, 2023 at 8:01?AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>


Yes - IMO the O ring version one is much more durable. BTW it is slightly
larger diameter too so you have to replace the accumulator and piston as a
set. Every older OD that I have seen has scored accumulator and pistons ...
Also good idea to replace the main pressure spring as well if you are deep
into it. This will probably up the pressure too.
I get all my OD bits from OD Spares in Rugby UK = knowledgeable and helpful.
rg

On Thu, Jun 22, 2023 at 6:57?AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I have the DWM 'uprated' accumulator set; the housing has an O-ring and
> the piston has four equally-sized metal rings. Don't recall any others, but
> don't think it was any different than the OEM one I took out.
>
> Too late now, but had I known of it I might have bought the AH Spares
> version with O-ring(s?) on the piston instead of metal rings. The metal
> rings will score the accumulator bore eventually.
>
>
>
> On 6/21/2023 7:35 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I opened
> the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow rings.
> Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up two ring sets
> for the piston?
>
>
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Jun 22 10:22:31 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 16:22:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
Message-ID: <f7f5ba11d0a79e19b6011aba922e7c40db470328@webmail>

John-if you are referring to the steel rings they are just stuck
together from age-soak them in kerosene for awhile. They are very
delicate-don't pry them-a razor blade can also carefully separate
them. If you are referring to the O-rings the latest accumulator body
only uses one o-ring. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday June 21 2023 8:56:31PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings

	I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I
opened the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow
rings. Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up
two ring sets for the piston? 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 22 10:43:23 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 09:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
In-Reply-To: <f7f5ba11d0a79e19b6011aba922e7c40db470328@webmail>
References: <f7f5ba11d0a79e19b6011aba922e7c40db470328@webmail>
Message-ID: <056501d9a528$a95fc100$fc1f4300$@sbcglobal.net>

Hank,

 

I am referring to the steel rings. Checking the parts manual there are two rings on each piston. Each ring is a set, comprised of a wide ring with two thinner rings on the outside. Moss only sent one ring set. There should be two wide rings and four narrow rings to make up the required two ring sets.

 

Thanks,

John

 

From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net> 
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2023 9:23 AM
To: 'John Spaur' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings

 

John-if you are referring to the steel rings they are just stuck together from age-soak them in kerosene for awhile.  They are very delicate-don't pry them-a razor blade can also carefully separate them.  If you are referring to the O-rings the latest accumulator body only uses one o-ring.  Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "John Spaur via Healeys" 
To: "healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday June 21 2023 8:56:31PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings

I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I opened the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow rings. Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up two ring sets for the piston?

 

John Spaur

?62 BT7

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jun 22 11:35:26 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 13:35:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
In-Reply-To: <5da12843-89d2-1034-2230-cc52af267512@comcast.net>
References: <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <009f01d9a4b2$311cb840$935628c0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <5da12843-89d2-1034-2230-cc52af267512@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKVjhSxFKC8jURwpvd+=F6uZ_xxku=TqeU8ftVb-HLzcA@mail.gmail.com>

Years ago I made an accumulator piston to use an O ring.
The result was an abject failure as tiny chunks of the O ring were sliced
off each time it passed over the pressure relief drillings in the housing.
Any clue as to how that has been overcome?

M

On Thu., Jun. 22, 2023, 9:41 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I have the DWM 'uprated' accumulator set; the housing has an O-ring and
> the piston has four equally-sized metal rings. Don't recall any others, but
> don't think it was any different than the OEM one I took out.
>
> Too late now, but had I known of it I might have bought the AH Spares
> version with O-ring(s?) on the piston instead of metal rings. The metal
> rings will score the accumulator bore eventually.
>
>
>
> On 6/21/2023 7:35 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I opened
> the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow rings.
> Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up two ring sets
> for the piston?
>
>
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun 22 17:18:35 2023
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 16:18:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
References: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$@sbcglobal.net>

I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the car. I am
at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing. Is it difficult
to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or suggested tool to use?

 

I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they omitted
from my parts order.

 

Thank you,

John Spaur

'62 BT7

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Jun 22 19:07:28 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 01:07:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
Message-ID: <08e06af3e997262bd0f5136c5dba8e64f48536fc@webmail>

Here is what I use to get it out...there are special tools but this
works well. All these photos and suggestions will appear in my article
in AH Mag. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday June 22 2023 4:55:05PM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing

	I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the
car. I am at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing.
Is it difficult to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or
suggested tool to use? 

	I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they
omitted from my parts order. 

	Thank you, 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Jun 22 19:09:33 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 01:09:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
Message-ID: <d20df59b299c3f3cd04121113f7628c6634d92fb@webmail>

Use metal rings-live with scores. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "Bob Spidell"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Thursday June 22 2023 11:51:58AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings

 Years ago I made an accumulator piston to use an O ring. The result
was an abject failure as tiny chunks of the O ring were sliced off
each time it passed over the pressure relief drillings in the housing.
Any clue as to how that has been overcome? 
 M  
 On Thu., Jun. 22, 2023, 9:41 a.m. Bob Spidell,  wrote:
  I have the DWM 'uprated' accumulator set; the housing has an O-ring
and the piston has four equally-sized metal rings. Don't recall any
others, but don't think it was any different than the OEM one I took
out.

 Too late now, but had I known of it I might have bought the AH Spares
version with O-ring(s?) on the piston instead of metal rings. The
metal rings will score the accumulator bore eventually.

On 6/21/2023 7:35 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:

	I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When I
opened the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two narrow
rings. Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four narrow to make up
two ring sets for the piston? 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7  

 _______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jun 22 19:18:34 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 18:18:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
In-Reply-To: <d20df59b299c3f3cd04121113f7628c6634d92fb@webmail>
References: <d20df59b299c3f3cd04121113f7628c6634d92fb@webmail>
Message-ID: <0c37ef8b-634e-10a1-a272-609042c6f494@comcast.net>

Umm, OK. Why? LdeN--or Austin, who knows--went from metal rings to 
O-rings--$0.49/ea from MM (maybe the reason)--on the operating pistons 
for the later cars. The ones in my BJ8's OD at about 210K miles were 
somewhat flattened on the expected side, but still worked.

bs


On 6/22/2023 6:09 PM, Hank Leach wrote:
> Use metal rings-live with scores.? Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Michael Salter"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Sent: Thursday June 22 2023 11:51:58AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator piston with rings
>
> Years ago I made an accumulator piston to use an O ring.
> The result was an abject failure as tiny chunks of the O ring were 
> sliced off each time it passed over the pressure relief drillings in 
> the housing.
> Any clue as to how that has been overcome?
>
> M
>
> On Thu., Jun. 22, 2023, 9:41 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> 
> wrote:
>
>     I have the DWM 'uprated' accumulator set; the housing has an
>     O-ring and the piston has four equally-sized metal rings. Don't
>     recall any others, but don't think it was any different than the
>     OEM one I took out.
>
>     Too late now, but had I known of it I might have bought the AH
>     Spares version with O-ring(s?) on the piston instead of metal
>     rings. The metal rings will score the accumulator bore eventually.
>
>
>
>     On 6/21/2023 7:35 PM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
>         I am replacing the accumulator housing, piston and rings. When
>         I opened the piston box, there was only one wide ring with two
>         narrow rings. Shouldn?t there be two wide rings and four
>         narrow to make up two ring sets for the piston?
>
>         John Spaur
>
>         ?62 BT7
>
>
>
>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Jun 22 20:15:52 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 02:15:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
Message-ID: <748800bab8452751f4e8cc2464dbba427947a6cd@webmail>

JOHN- THE PISTON IS OK THE SPRING HOOKS ON THAT DIMPLE. PUSH THE
PISTON BACK INTO THE HOUSING, USE A WOOD DOWEL TO WEDGE IN THE BODY TO
PULL THE BODY OUT WITH THE PISTON INTACT-CAN BE DONE IN CAR BUT
TIGHTER QUARTERS. NOW REMOVE THE PISTON FROM THE FRONT of the body-not
the rear (to prevent scoring). After putting on new rings; I made a
piston ring compressor to help slip the steel rings carefully into
place, push the piston in from the front again-then use the distance
tube to reseat the body into OD. (Photo) Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "John Spaur" 
To: "Hank Leach"
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday June 22 2023 7:02:32PM
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing

	That photo helps. However, my OD is in the car and I don?t want to
take it out. I have attached a photo. It looks like the piston has a
hole in the middle. Seems odd. It could just be the lighting when I
took the photo because the new piston has a concave dimple inside in
the middle. 

	FROM: Hank Leach [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net]
SENT: Thursday, June 22, 2023 6:07 PM
TO: 'John Spaur' 
CC: 'healeys' 
SUBJECT: RE: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing   

	Here is what I use to get it out...there are special tools but this
works well. All these photos and suggestions will appear in my article
in AH Mag. Hank 

	----------------------------------------- 

	From: "John Spaur via Healeys"
 To: "healeys"
 Cc:
 Sent: Thursday June 22 2023 4:55:05PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing  

	I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the
car. I am at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing.
Is it difficult to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or
suggested tool to use? 

	I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they
omitted from my parts order. 

	Thank you, 

	John Spaur 

	?62 BT7
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Jun 23 03:30:01 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 10:30:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
In-Reply-To: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000001d9a5b5$4a6e8180$df4b8480$@alexarevel.plus.com>

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Spaur via
Healeys
Sent: 23 June 2023 00:19
To: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing

 

I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the car. I am
at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing. Is it difficult
to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or suggested tool to use?

 

I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they omitted
from my parts order.

 

Thank you,

John Spaur

'62 BT7

 

Regarding the tool, here's my rather crude offering. All I can say is that
it worked and cost nothing. Took minutes to make.once I'd thought it
through.

This is extracted from an article I wrote subsequent to the OD and clutch
issues I had a while back, which some of you may remember. Seemed to be
interminable at the time. Anyhow, I've spared you the rest of the text!

Simon

 

Extracting the accumulator is one of those things that usually requires the
use of a "Special Tool", which is unobtainable at any price. Or, one of
one's own invention. My accumulator wouldn't come out and I felt that most
people's suggestions were way too complex. In the end I took a short length
of broom handle and shaved it down until it would just squeeze into the
accumulator housing. Then I cut it in two longitudinally. Finally, I shaved
the last 2 or 3 inches quite considerably back on the two inside faces of
the end that would protrude. Rather like an old-fashioned clothes peg. The
idea being that squeezing those ends together would force the other ends
apart. They would thus grab onto the bore and allow one to pull it out. The
best way to achieve maximum squeeze is with a Jubilee Clip. Insert tapered
end, tighten Jubilee Clip and pull. It works and it can all be made from
scrap!

 

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Fri Jun 23 08:01:48 2023
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 10:01:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
In-Reply-To: <000001d9a5b5$4a6e8180$df4b8480$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d9a5b5$4a6e8180$df4b8480$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <005f01d9a5db$40fb4450$c2f1ccf0$@sympatico.ca>

Simon, that's brilliant.  

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
via Healeys
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2023 5:30 AM
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of John Spaur via
Healeys
Sent: 23 June 2023 00:19
To: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing

 

I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the car. I am
at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing. Is it difficult
to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or suggested tool to use?

 

I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they omitted
from my parts order.

 

Thank you,

John Spaur

'62 BT7

 

Regarding the tool, here's my rather crude offering. All I can say is that
it worked and cost nothing. Took minutes to make.once I'd thought it
through.

This is extracted from an article I wrote subsequent to the OD and clutch
issues I had a while back, which some of you may remember. Seemed to be
interminable at the time. Anyhow, I've spared you the rest of the text!

Simon

 

Extracting the accumulator is one of those things that usually requires the
use of a "Special Tool", which is unobtainable at any price. Or, one of
one's own invention. My accumulator wouldn't come out and I felt that most
people's suggestions were way too complex. In the end I took a short length
of broom handle and shaved it down until it would just squeeze into the
accumulator housing. Then I cut it in two longitudinally. Finally, I shaved
the last 2 or 3 inches quite considerably back on the two inside faces of
the end that would protrude. Rather like an old-fashioned clothes peg. The
idea being that squeezing those ends together would force the other ends
apart. They would thus grab onto the bore and allow one to pull it out. The
best way to achieve maximum squeeze is with a Jubilee Clip. Insert tapered
end, tighten Jubilee Clip and pull. It works and it can all be made from
scrap!

 

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From roggrace at telus.net  Fri Jun 23 08:58:44 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 07:58:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
In-Reply-To: <005f01d9a5db$40fb4450$c2f1ccf0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d9a5b5$4a6e8180$df4b8480$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <005f01d9a5db$40fb4450$c2f1ccf0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiP8zHEpB89LUh0esby3usyr331S7oJnrGMAUnZb3=OuoQ@mail.gmail.com>

Here is a photo of one I also cobbled together with some rubber tube with 1
1/16 OD hose
It does work and I have used it on a few occasions.
This one is sized for the old accumulator with the steel ring pistons. Not
had to use it yet on a newer sized accumulator with the slightly larger
diameter. Those with a lathe could certainly make a more elegant cone !
rg


---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Date: Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 7:31?AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
To: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>


Simon, that?s brilliant.



Mirek



*From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon
Lachlan via Healeys
*Sent:* Friday, June 23, 2023 5:30 AM
*Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
*Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing







*From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *John Spaur
via Healeys
*Sent:* 23 June 2023 00:19
*To:* 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
*Subject:* [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing



I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the car. I
am at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing. Is it
difficult to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or suggested tool
to use?



I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they omitted
from my parts order.



Thank you,

John Spaur

?62 BT7



Regarding the tool, here?s my rather crude offering. All I can say is that
it worked and cost nothing. Took minutes to make?once I?d thought it
through.

This is extracted from an article I wrote subsequent to the OD and clutch
issues I had a while back, which some of you may remember. Seemed to be
interminable at the time. Anyhow, I?ve spared you the rest of the text!

Simon



Extracting the accumulator is one of those things that usually requires the
use of a ?Special Tool?, which is unobtainable at any price. Or, one of
one?s own invention. My accumulator wouldn?t come out and I felt that most
people?s suggestions were way too complex. In the end I took a short length
of broom handle and shaved it down until it would just squeeze into the
accumulator housing. Then I cut it in two longitudinally. Finally, I shaved
the last 2 or 3 inches quite considerably back on the two inside faces of
the end that would protrude. Rather like an old-fashioned clothes peg. The
idea being that squeezing those ends together would force the other ends
apart. They would thus grab onto the bore and allow one to pull it out. The
best way to achieve maximum squeeze is with a Jubilee Clip. Insert tapered
end, tighten Jubilee Clip and pull. It works and it can all be made from
scrap!


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Fri Jun 23 09:23:46 2023
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 16:23:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
In-Reply-To: <005f01d9a5db$40fb4450$c2f1ccf0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <011301d9a55f$df2d3ba0$9d87b2e0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <000001d9a5b5$4a6e8180$df4b8480$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <005f01d9a5db$40fb4450$c2f1ccf0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLWjbNwKdpbzk5jFQOM5aUOPw9n6hdtrNgwhwCjn4Ew1qA@mail.gmail.com>

One method I used was to select a length of threaded rod with nuts and
washers around a soft rubber grommet slightly undersized for the
accumulator bore. I then tightened the nuts so that the grommet swelled,
filled, and tightened in the bore. In my case, the piston then came out
easily with a steady pull

On Fri, 23 Jun 2023 at 15:29, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Simon, that?s brilliant.
>
>
>
> Mirek
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon
> Lachlan via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, June 23, 2023 5:30 AM
> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *John
> Spaur via Healeys
> *Sent:* 23 June 2023 00:19
> *To:* 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Overdrive accumulator housing
>
>
>
> I am replacing the accumulator piston and housing. My OD is in the car. I
> am at the point where I need to remove the accumulator housing. Is it
> difficult to pull out? Is there any special tool I need or suggested tool
> to use?
>
>
>
> I am waiting for Moss to send an additional piston ring that they omitted
> from my parts order.
>
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> John Spaur
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
>
> Regarding the tool, here?s my rather crude offering. All I can say is that
> it worked and cost nothing. Took minutes to make?once I?d thought it
> through.
>
> This is extracted from an article I wrote subsequent to the OD and clutch
> issues I had a while back, which some of you may remember. Seemed to be
> interminable at the time. Anyhow, I?ve spared you the rest of the text!
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> Extracting the accumulator is one of those things that usually requires
> the use of a ?Special Tool?, which is unobtainable at any price. Or, one of
> one?s own invention. My accumulator wouldn?t come out and I felt that most
> people?s suggestions were way too complex. In the end I took a short length
> of broom handle and shaved it down until it would just squeeze into the
> accumulator housing. Then I cut it in two longitudinally. Finally, I shaved
> the last 2 or 3 inches quite considerably back on the two inside faces of
> the end that would protrude. Rather like an old-fashioned clothes peg. The
> idea being that squeezing those ends together would force the other ends
> apart. They would thus grab onto the bore and allow one to pull it out. The
> best way to achieve maximum squeeze is with a Jubilee Clip. Insert tapered
> end, tighten Jubilee Clip and pull. It works and it can all be made from
> scrap!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From dmw at wirkenphoto.com  Thu Jun 22 13:54:55 2023
From: dmw at wirkenphoto.com (David Wirken)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2023 14:54:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue
Message-ID: <2622067F-EB3E-4563-B2AD-D0D5F8DF8A41@wirkenphoto.com>

I have a issue with the overdrive not disengaging and becoming stuck in OD after disengaging, it?s not an electrical  issue and we have to rock the car back and forth until we hear the clutch pop loose and off we go until I engage it again and then try to disengage it , I have pulled the operating valve and cleaned real good the tiny hole in the shaft and have drilled it out one size bigger as directed by a Healey restorer , to no avail.
Any helpful hints ?

DW

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jun 23 11:25:10 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 13:25:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue
In-Reply-To: <2622067F-EB3E-4563-B2AD-D0D5F8DF8A41@wirkenphoto.com>
References: <2622067F-EB3E-4563-B2AD-D0D5F8DF8A41@wirkenphoto.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKm7WaRmZLTHHC0JK3Mc0ZG6OVVrFCmHg2on5QGYUg7mw@mail.gmail.com>

My next step would be to fit a pressure gauge to determine if the problem
is due to residual pressure or the clutch sticking (something I have never
encountered).


On Fri., Jun. 23, 2023, 1:03 p.m. David Wirken via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I have a issue with the overdrive not disengaging and becoming stuck in OD
> after disengaging, it?s not an electrical  issue and we have to rock the
> car back and forth until we hear the clutch pop loose and off we go until I
> engage it again and then try to disengage it , I have pulled the operating
> valve and cleaned real good the tiny hole in the shaft and have drilled it
> out one size bigger as directed by a Healey restorer , to no avail.
> Any helpful hints ?
>
> DW
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From dmw at wirkenphoto.com  Fri Jun 23 12:49:22 2023
From: dmw at wirkenphoto.com (David Wirken)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 13:49:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKm7WaRmZLTHHC0JK3Mc0ZG6OVVrFCmHg2on5QGYUg7mw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2622067F-EB3E-4563-B2AD-D0D5F8DF8A41@wirkenphoto.com>
 <CAB3i7LKm7WaRmZLTHHC0JK3Mc0ZG6OVVrFCmHg2on5QGYUg7mw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALnfbV8EwrTsaqV1hLmzbbMREgHx0KE21quZ+tCSDmVyNwVJQg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the tip! I just located our club's pressure gauge and will give
it a go.
Will keep you posted
DW


On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 12:25?PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> My next step would be to fit a pressure gauge to determine if the problem
> is due to residual pressure or the clutch sticking (something I have never
> encountered).
>
>
> On Fri., Jun. 23, 2023, 1:03 p.m. David Wirken via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I have a issue with the overdrive not disengaging and becoming stuck in
>> OD after disengaging, it?s not an electrical  issue and we have to rock the
>> car back and forth until we hear the clutch pop loose and off we go until I
>> engage it again and then try to disengage it , I have pulled the operating
>> valve and cleaned real good the tiny hole in the shaft and have drilled it
>> out one size bigger as directed by a Healey restorer , to no avail.
>> Any helpful hints ?
>>
>> DW
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Jun 23 18:59:15 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 00:59:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue
Message-ID: <164798bff7dcf7f1e11e901db194df026b06fa69@webmail>

I feel the next step is to remove the solenoid cover and clean the non
return valve, check that it is not damaged-seat the ball and have a
look at the accumulator piston and bore. How well was the solenoid
adjusted to go into and out of OD-binding of shaft or smooth operation
and proper adjustment? If you reversed the car with the OD engaged,
the clutch in the annulus is probably damaged and thrust ring broken
which will warrant a tear down. Hank. 

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "David Wirken"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Friday June 23 2023 12:59:33PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue

 My next step would be to fit a pressure gauge to determine if the
problem is due to residual pressure or the clutch sticking (something
I have never encountered). 

 On Fri., Jun. 23, 2023, 1:03 p.m. David Wirken via Healeys,  wrote:
 I have a issue with the overdrive not disengaging and becoming stuck
in OD after disengaging, it?s not an electrical issue and we have to
rock the car back and forth until we hear the clutch pop loose and off
we go until I engage it again and then try to disengage it , I have
pulled the operating valve and cleaned real good the tiny hole in the
shaft and have drilled it out one size bigger as directed by a Healey
restorer , to no avail.
 Any helpful hints ?

 DW
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
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Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
[9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
[10]

  

Links:
------
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[2] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Fri Jun 23 20:20:41 2023
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2023 22:20:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKm7WaRmZLTHHC0JK3Mc0ZG6OVVrFCmHg2on5QGYUg7mw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2622067F-EB3E-4563-B2AD-D0D5F8DF8A41@wirkenphoto.com>
 <CAB3i7LKm7WaRmZLTHHC0JK3Mc0ZG6OVVrFCmHg2on5QGYUg7mw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b94379fa-4b74-033f-2a58-77c9ebebf7de@htcnet.org>

I had a similar issue with an OD that was recently rebuilt, Bruce 
Philips recommended treating it rough until the clutch would release 
normally.? By engaging it at several times at speed and accelerating it 
started releasing properly.

John

On 6/23/2023 1:25 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> My next step would be to fit a pressure gauge to determine if the 
> problem is due to residual pressure or the clutch sticking (something 
> I have never encountered).
>
>
> On Fri., Jun. 23, 2023, 1:03 p.m. David Wirken via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I have a issue with the overdrive not disengaging and becoming
>     stuck in OD after disengaging, it?s not an electrical? issue and
>     we have to rock the car back and forth until we hear the clutch
>     pop loose and off we go until I engage it again and then try to
>     disengage it , I have pulled the operating valve and cleaned real
>     good the tiny hole in the shaft and have drilled it out one size
>     bigger as directed by a Healey restorer , to no avail.
>     Any helpful hints ?
>
>     DW
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Jun 24 04:51:30 2023
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 11:51:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey BN2 overdrive issue
In-Reply-To: <b94379fa-4b74-033f-2a58-77c9ebebf7de@htcnet.org>
References: <2622067F-EB3E-4563-B2AD-D0D5F8DF8A41@wirkenphoto.com>
 <CAB3i7LKm7WaRmZLTHHC0JK3Mc0ZG6OVVrFCmHg2on5QGYUg7mw@mail.gmail.com>
 <b94379fa-4b74-033f-2a58-77c9ebebf7de@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <000501d9a689$d6d51740$847f45c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

On a similar note?..I put in a totally rebuilt OD and it wouldn?t disengage. After a bit of thought I thought I?d try to be a little more persuasive with it. See correspondence, below:-

 

From:           David Twigger < <mailto:odspares at aol.com> odspares at aol.com>

Sent:             04 July 2022 12:22

To:                  <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com

Subject:       Re: Simon Lachlan?s OD

 

Hi Simon

Ah, that is just the clutch sticking because it?s a new one. To bed it in quicker, you can floor it up a hill, engage od and flick it back out as soon as you start to feel it go in. Do that a few times and, with use, it will get better.

All the best from scorching Corfu, Dave.

Sent from the all-new AOL app for Android

 

On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 at 22:32,  <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com < <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

Dave,

Last time we spoke, my (100% brand new) OD would go in to but not out of OD. A real PITA. 

Anyhow, I fiddled around with it for a few hours and, it still being up on stands, I decided to give it quite a blast. 4,500rpm+/-. Anyhow, it went in OK, then came out with rather a jerk or clunk as if something had popped out or come unstuck. Or whatever. And now it works 100%. So, all?s well. Thank God.

Thanks,

Simon

 

Not sure this is 100% relevant this time as presumably the clutch has been working OK. Pressure gauge will always be my first stop.

Simon

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From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Jun 24 15:00:21 2023
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 21:00:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] spigot bush
References: <368972524.3527060.1687640421311.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <368972524.3527060.1687640421311@mail.yahoo.com>

I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze bearing in the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the correct way to do this & does the grade of the oil matter?Gary Hodson
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jun 24 15:43:48 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 17:43:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
filler caps.
The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
original.
[image: image.png]
However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
cylinder engines look like this.
[image: image.png]
with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
which type of cap is fitted to their car.

Many thanks
Michael Salter
Concours Guidelines Editor.
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 24 17:45:34 2023
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 23:45:34 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BY5PR07MB6514D4F944E5FEF279B925F4A420A@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Mine is like the green one and I have never seen the others one on any BJ8 in twenty two years of Healey ownership.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:34 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.
The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.
<image.png>
However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.
<image.png>
with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

Many thanks
Michael Salter
Concours Guidelines Editor.



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Sat Jun 24 18:14:19 2023
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 20:14:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR07MB6514D4F944E5FEF279B925F4A420A@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <BY5PR07MB6514D4F944E5FEF279B925F4A420A@BY5PR07MB6514.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <9E6E194F-91E9-4986-BA3B-E85F5949B73B@rogers.com>

My cap is like the painted one with the rim.
Stephen, BJ8

> On Jun 24, 2023, at 7:45 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Mine is like the green one and I have never seen the others one on any BJ8 in twenty two years of Healey ownership.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:34 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> 
>> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.
>> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.
>> <image.png>
>> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.
>> <image.png>
>> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>> 
>> Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>> 
>> Many thanks
>> Michael Salter
>> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>> 
> <image.png><image.png>_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Jun 24 19:15:49 2023
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 01:15:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
Message-ID: <1c812fe9e7651b7c11a99ddc1fab6e86ed07fb55@webmail>

Michael my engine is original to the car purchased new 1966. Here is a
photo. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday June 24 2023 3:50:53PM
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8
about oil filler caps. The cap on his car is of this type and he is
fairly sure that it is original.   However I am fairly sure that the
only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like
this.  with the distinct "rim" around the edge. 
 Would appreciate anyone with a KNOWN ORIGINAL late BJ8 letting me
know which type of cap is fitted to their car. 
 Many thanks Michael Salter Concours Guidelines Editor.


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jun 24 20:55:37 2023
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 19:55:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <fd8c3d9a-e1b2-4281-25d9-bfa21175eb0c@comcast.net>

My '67 BJ8, 'despatched' in Nov. 1966 has the second (green) type. It 
had 64K miles when I bought it and, besides a couple paint jobs was all 
original as far as I could tell.


On 6/24/2023 2:43 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about 
> oil filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is 
> original.
> image.png
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen 
> on 6 cylinder engines look like this.
> image.png
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a _*known original*_ late BJ8 letting me 
> know which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
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From kags at shaw.ca  Sat Jun 24 23:43:18 2023
From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 22:43:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001d9a727$f2ef9150$d8ceb3f0$@shaw.ca>

Michael:

 

Just went out to the garage to check, and lo and behold, I have what must be the later type ? the unpainted cap in your message - on my BJ8 ? car # 42845 (Nov 1967).  I?ve owned the car for 42 years now ? it?s highly likely (but not impossible) ? based on the car?s overall condition when acquired - that the both valve cover and cap are original to the car.

 

Interesting!

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria, BC

BT7, BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2023 2:44 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.



However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.



with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jun 25 01:53:50 2023
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 09:53:50 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] spigot bush
In-Reply-To: <368972524.3527060.1687640421311@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <368972524.3527060.1687640421311.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368972524.3527060.1687640421311@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <fcbcbb1a-43b4-2359-cbeb-c9927f335d7a@chello.nl>

Sintered phosphor bronze is porous and should be soaked in oil before 
use. Usually a lightweight oil is used. Place the spigot bearing in a 
small container with oil making sure the spigot is fully covered, heat 
the container "au bain marie" in e.g. a large sauce pan for obvious 
safety reasons to near boiling point of the water and keep it there for 
a while so most air can escape (air will expend during heating up) from 
the porous material. Then let it all cool down to ambient temperature. 
The oil will then have penetrated in the spigot bearing replacing the 
air in de phosphor bronze.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 24-6-2023 om 23:00 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze 
> bearing in the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the 
> correct way to do this & does the grade of the oil matter?
> Gary Hodson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Sun Jun 25 04:03:47 2023
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren Dietz)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 06:03:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92810E5D-496A-469D-BB4C-E5AD3BE3A265@hxcore.ol>

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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Sun Jun 25 04:48:41 2023
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 20:48:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <92810E5D-496A-469D-BB4C-E5AD3BE3A265@hxcore.ol>
References: <92810E5D-496A-469D-BB4C-E5AD3BE3A265@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <9450DB98-AD47-4C8E-AB79-13AFAF540078@gmail.com>

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From nstbennett at gmail.com  Sun Jun 25 08:51:28 2023
From: nstbennett at gmail.com (N.S. Bennett)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 08:51:28 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5127.1687687443.2997.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5127.1687687443.2997.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAEcLKwiHf38_54aSmgueOYyZR6yU8HhMVjwt+F30+JLF0DVacQ@mail.gmail.com>

Attached is a photo (albeit very poor) from HBJ8/43026 showing the filler
cap. I'll leave it to those with better eyes than mine but this appears to
be the former (not the latter) shown in the original email.

Hopefully Steve Byers sees this thread and has better information than I.

Happy Healeying!
Nate B.
'66 BJ8
Parker, CO

On Sun, Jun 25, 2023, 4:52 AM <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>         healeys at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. spigot bush (warthodson at aol.com)
>    2. Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Michael Salter)
>    3. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Richard Kahn)
>    4. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>       (Stephen Hutchings)
>    5. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Hank Leach)
>    6. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Bob Spidell)
>    7. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (kags at shaw.ca)
>    8. Re: spigot bush (Kees Oudesluijs)
>    9. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Warren Dietz)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 21:00:21 +0000 (UTC)
> Subject: [Healeys] spigot bush
> I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze bearing in
> the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the correct way to do
> this & does the grade of the oil matter?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 17:43:48 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
> [image: image.png]
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
> [image: image.png]
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 23:45:34 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
> Mine is like the green one and I have never seen the others one on any BJ8
> in twenty two years of Healey ownership.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:34 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
> <image.png>
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
> <image.png>
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
> Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net" <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 20:14:19 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
> My cap is like the painted one with the rim.
> Stephen, BJ8
>
> On Jun 24, 2023, at 7:45 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Mine is like the green one and I have never seen the others one on any BJ8
> in twenty two years of Healey ownership.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:34 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
> <image.png>
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
> <image.png>
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
>
> <image.png><image.png>_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
> To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 01:15:49 +0000
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
> Michael my engine is original to the car purchased new 1966. Here is a
> photo. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Michael Salter"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday June 24 2023 3:50:53PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
> [image: image.png]
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
> [image: image.png]
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 19:55:37 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
> My '67 BJ8, 'despatched' in Nov. 1966 has the second (green) type. It had
> 64K miles when I bought it and, besides a couple paint jobs was all
> original as far as I could tell.
>
>
> On 6/24/2023 2:43 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
> [image: image.png]
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
> [image: image.png]
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: <kags at shaw.ca>
> To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 22:43:18 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
> Michael:
>
>
>
> Just went out to the garage to check, and lo and behold, I have what must
> be the later type ? the unpainted cap in your message - on my BJ8 ? car #
> 42845 (Nov 1967).  I?ve owned the car for 42 years now ? it?s highly likely
> (but not impossible) ? based on the car?s overall condition when acquired -
> that the both valve cover and cap are original to the car.
>
>
>
> Interesting!
>
>
>
> Earl Kagna
>
> Victoria, BC
>
> BT7, BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 24, 2023 2:44 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
>
>
>
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
>
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
>
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
>
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
>
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
> Michael Salter
>
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> Virus-free.www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-1513680721412045858_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 09:53:50 +0200
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] spigot bush
>
> Sintered phosphor bronze is porous and should be soaked in oil before use.
> Usually a lightweight oil is used. Place the spigot bearing in a small
> container with oil making sure the spigot is fully covered, heat the
> container "au bain marie" in e.g. a large sauce pan for obvious safety
> reasons to near boiling point of the water and keep it there for a while so
> most air can escape (air will expend during heating up) from the porous
> material. Then let it all cool down to ambient temperature. The oil will
> then have penetrated in the spigot bearing replacing the air in de phosphor
> bronze.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Op 24-6-2023 om 23:00 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
>
> I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze bearing in
> the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the correct way to do
> this & does the grade of the oil matter?
> Gary Hodson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> Virusvrij.www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-1513680721412045858_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Warren Dietz <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net" <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 06:03:47 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
> Michael,
>
> The green one with rim. Photo is from my car.
>
> WD
>
> 67 BJ8
>
> Original owner car #41574
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Saturday, June 24, 2023 6:32 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
>
>
>
>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
>
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
>
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
>
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
>
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
>
>
> Many thanks
>
> Michael Salter
>
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Jun 25 09:30:08 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 08:30:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] spigot bush
In-Reply-To: <fcbcbb1a-43b4-2359-cbeb-c9927f335d7a@chello.nl>
References: <368972524.3527060.1687640421311.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <368972524.3527060.1687640421311@mail.yahoo.com>
 <fcbcbb1a-43b4-2359-cbeb-c9927f335d7a@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiO3dFoY3dwY+F06E2wqJEK783h-9n4HDwyz14QqseggMA@mail.gmail.com>

Another more instantaneous technique !
Nearly 50 years ago, nearly every car I touched had a Lucas generator with
a bronze rear bush - they were always failing - because the owners did not
lubricate them.
When replacing, we always filled the new one with light oil then squeezed
between our thumbs and enjoyed watching the oil oozing out !
Just tried it again with the spigot one - larger thums needed but bronze
oilite is bronze oilite and yes it does ooze out with pressure !
rg


On Sun, Jun 25, 2023 at 1:24?AM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Sintered phosphor bronze is porous and should be soaked in oil before use.
> Usually a lightweight oil is used. Place the spigot bearing in a small
> container with oil making sure the spigot is fully covered, heat the
> container "au bain marie" in e.g. a large sauce pan for obvious safety
> reasons to near boiling point of the water and keep it there for a while so
> most air can escape (air will expend during heating up) from the porous
> material. Then let it all cool down to ambient temperature. The oil will
> then have penetrated in the spigot bearing replacing the air in de phosphor
> bronze.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> Op 24-6-2023 om 23:00 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
>
> I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze bearing in
> the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the correct way to do
> this & does the grade of the oil matter?
> Gary Hodson
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jun 25 14:08:16 2023
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 16:08:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAEcLKwiHf38_54aSmgueOYyZR6yU8HhMVjwt+F30+JLF0DVacQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5127.1687687443.2997.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <CAEcLKwiHf38_54aSmgueOYyZR6yU8HhMVjwt+F30+JLF0DVacQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006401d9a7a0$c7ed8ba0$57c8a2e0$@rr.com>

43026 has some things that seem to deviate from normal, but since it was put together with ?parts? in the Abingdon ?Show Shop? I guess that could be expected.

The VIN plate is rectangular, rather than the later style ?oval? plate; the valve cover is chromed, and has the AUSTIN and SET ROCKERS?? plates attached with rivets or screws, instead of the decals expected on engine /H17504.  The valve cover hold-down nuts also look to be different from standard.

 

Seems that 43026 is not a good example on which to base a decision on the proper oil filler cap.  I?ve seen a lot of BJ8s, but don?t think I?ve ever seen one with the non-rimmed filler cap.  I?ve owned my BJ8 36666 almost 40 years with its original engine and it has the rimmed cap.   I?m not saying there aren?t any of the non-rimmed style out there somewhere, though.

 

Steve Byers

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of N.S. Bennett
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2023 10:51 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 

Attached is a photo (albeit very poor) from HBJ8/43026 showing the filler cap. I'll leave it to those with better eyes than mine but this appears to be the former (not the latter) shown in the original email.

 

Hopefully Steve Byers sees this thread and has better information than I. 

 

Happy Healeying!

Nate B.

'66 BJ8

Parker, CO

 

On Sun, Jun 25, 2023, 4:52 AM <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
        healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
        http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
        healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
        healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
Today's Topics:

   1. spigot bush (warthodson at aol.com)
   2. Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Michael Salter)
   3. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Richard Kahn)
   4. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
      (Stephen Hutchings)
   5. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Hank Leach)
   6. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Bob Spidell)
   7. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (kags at shaw.ca)
   8. Re: spigot bush (Kees Oudesluijs)
   9. Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap (Warren Dietz)



---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "warthodson at aol.com" <warthodson at aol.com>
To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 21:00:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] spigot bush

I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze bearing in the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the correct way to do this & does the grade of the oil matter?

Gary Hodson




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 17:43:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.

image.png

However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.

image.png

with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 23:45:34 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

Mine is like the green one and I have never seen the others one on any BJ8 in twenty two years of Healey ownership.

Sent from my iPhone





On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:34 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

? 

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.

<image.png>

However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.

<image.png>

with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 20:14:19 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

My cap is like the painted one with the rim.

Stephen, BJ8





On Jun 24, 2023, at 7:45 PM, Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Mine is like the green one and I have never seen the others one on any BJ8 in twenty two years of Healey ownership.



Sent from my iPhone





On Jun 24, 2023, at 3:34 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.

<image.png>

However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.

<image.png>

with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: "'healeys at autox.team.net'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Bcc: 
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 01:15:49 +0000
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

Michael my engine is original to the car purchased new 1966. Here is a photo. Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Michael Salter" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday June 24 2023 3:50:53PM
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.

 image.png <http://index.php/inbox/attachment/filenameOriginal/image.png/filenamefs/INBOX61594d2b5ca33bd970f64a6301fa75ae2eb22> 

However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.

 image.png <http://index.php/inbox/attachment/filenameOriginal/image.png/filenamefs/INBOX61594f2c9dea0da34ccd23102a1ae355639df> 

with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 19:55:37 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

My '67 BJ8, 'despatched' in Nov. 1966 has the second (green) type. It had 64K miles when I bought it and, besides a couple paint jobs was all original as far as I could tell.



On 6/24/2023 2:43 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.

image.png

However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.

image.png

with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
 

 




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: <kags at shaw.ca>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2023 22:43:18 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

Michael:

 

Just went out to the garage to check, and lo and behold, I have what must be the later type ? the unpainted cap in your message - on my BJ8 ? car # 42845 (Nov 1967).  I?ve owned the car for 42 years now ? it?s highly likely (but not impossible) ? based on the car?s overall condition when acquired - that the both valve cover and cap are original to the car.

 

Interesting!

 

Earl Kagna

Victoria, BC

BT7, BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2023 2:44 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.



However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.



with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 

 


 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

Virus-free. <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avast.com




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 09:53:50 +0200
Subject: Re: [Healeys] spigot bush

Sintered phosphor bronze is porous and should be soaked in oil before use. Usually a lightweight oil is used. Place the spigot bearing in a small container with oil making sure the spigot is fully covered, heat the container "au bain marie" in e.g. a large sauce pan for obvious safety reasons to near boiling point of the water and keep it there for a while so most air can escape (air will expend during heating up) from the porous material. Then let it all cool down to ambient temperature. The oil will then have penetrated in the spigot bearing replacing the air in de phosphor bronze.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 24-6-2023 om 23:00 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:

I recall that it is recommended to soak the spigot bush (bronze bearing in the crankshaft) in oil before installing. What is the correct way to do this & does the grade of the oil matter?

Gary Hodson

 

_______________________________________________
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---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Warren Dietz <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2023 06:03:47 -0400
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

Michael,

The green one with rim. Photo is from my car.

WD 

67 BJ8 

Original owner car #41574

 



Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

From: Michael Salter <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, June 24, 2023 6:32 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap

 

 

I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil filler caps.

The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is original.



However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6 cylinder engines look like this.



with the distinct "rim" around the edge.

 

Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know which type of cap is fitted to their car.

 

Many thanks

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Editor.

 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun 26 07:02:19 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2023 09:02:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>

Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my oil cap question.
It seems that the original type, with only 1 exception, is the "rimmed" cap.
We will be updating the Concours Guidelines appropriately.

M

On Sat., Jun. 24, 2023, 5:43 p.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

>
> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about oil
> filler caps.
> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
> original.
> [image: image.png]
> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on 6
> cylinder engines look like this.
> [image: image.png]
> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>
> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>
> Many thanks
> Michael Salter
> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>
>
>
>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Mon Jun 26 14:10:36 2023
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2023 22:10:36 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>

That leaves the question open: When was the change from the early version 
to the rimmed cap?
My 62 BT7 already had the rimmed version. I know earlier 100/6s had the 
other cap.
Josef Eckert
Germany
 
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
Datum: 2023-06-26T15:41:16+0200
Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 
 
 
Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my oil cap question. 
It seems that the original type, with only 1 exception, is the "rimmed" 
cap.
We will be updating the Concours Guidelines appropriately.
 
M

On Sat., Jun. 24, 2023, 5:43 p.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com
<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
   
  I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about
  oil filler caps.
  The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
  original.
  [image.png]
  However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on
  6 cylinder engines look like this.
  [image.png]
  with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
   
  Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know
  which type of cap is fitted to their car.
   
  Many thanks
  Michael Salter
  Concours Guidelines Editor.
   
   
   
?
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jun 26 14:42:58 2023
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2023 16:42:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>

As far as I can determine from the responses that I have received the
"rimmed" style of cap was most likely the only type that was available
during the production period.
It seems fairly certain that the other "rimless" style only became
available in later years.

M

On Mon., Jun. 26, 2023, 4:11 p.m. josef-eckert at t-online.de, <
josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:

> That leaves the question open: When was the change from the early version
> to the rimmed cap?
>
> My 62 BT7 already had the rimmed version. I know earlier 100/6s had the
> other cap.
>
> Josef Eckert
>
> Germany
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>
> Datum: 2023-06-26T15:41:16+0200
>
> Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>
> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my oil cap question.
> It seems that the original type, with only 1 exception, is the "rimmed"
> cap.
> We will be updating the Concours Guidelines appropriately.
>
> M
>
> On Sat., Jun. 24, 2023, 5:43 p.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about
>> oil filler caps.
>> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
>> original.
>> [image: image.png]
>> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen on
>> 6 cylinder engines look like this.
>> [image: image.png]
>> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>>
>> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me know
>> which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>>
>> Many thanks
>> Michael Salter
>> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ?
>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Tue Jun 27 00:13:57 2023
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2023 08:13:57 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>

Michael,
I do not believe that, as I know several 100/6s which kept the original 
rimless cap. I still have about a douzent painted rocker covers (valve 
covers) with both styles, half of each. The caps were not available 
aftermarket for many years.
Josef
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
Datum: 2023-06-26T22:43:14+0200
Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
 
 
 
As far as I can determine from the responses that I have received the 
"rimmed" style of cap was most likely the only type that was available 
during the production period. 
It seems fairly certain that the other "rimless" style only became 
available in later years.
 
M

On Mon., Jun. 26, 2023, 4:11 p.m. josef-eckert at t-online.de
<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> , <josef-eckert at t-online.de
<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> > wrote:
  That leaves the question open: When was the change from the early version
  to the rimmed cap?
  My 62 BT7 already had the rimmed version. I know earlier 100/6s had the
  other cap.
  Josef Eckert
  Germany
   
   
   
   
  -----Original-Nachricht-----
  Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
  Datum: 2023-06-26T15:41:16+0200
  Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com
  <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
  An: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> " <
  healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
   
   
   
  Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my oil cap question. 
  It seems that the original type, with only 1 exception, is the "rimmed"
  cap.
  We will be updating the Concours Guidelines appropriately.
   
  M

  On Sat., Jun. 24, 2023, 5:43 p.m. Michael Salter, <
  michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
     
    I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about
    oil filler caps.
    The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
    original.
    [image.png]
    However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen
    on 6 cylinder engines look like this.
    [image.png]
    with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
     
    Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me know
    which type of cap is fitted to their car.
     
    Many thanks
    Michael Salter
    Concours Guidelines Editor.
     
     
     
?
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Tue Jun 27 06:15:28 2023
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2023 14:15:28 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>

I am sure there are pictures in Healey books and brochures, road tests etc. 
of original engine bays. We are actually enjoying holidays in Scotland, so 
can't have a look from my side.
Josef



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gesendet mit der Telekom Mail App
<https://kommunikationsdienste.t-online.de/redirects/email_app_android_sendmail_footer>


--- Original-Nachricht ---
Von: Michael Salter
Betreff: Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
Datum: 27. Juni 2023, 12:57
An: josef-eckert at t-online.de


Thanks Josef,  I  will make some more enquiries about caps on original 
earlier 6 cylinder cars. 
Do you have any examples of known originals?

M

On Tue., Jun. 27, 2023, 2:14 a.m. josef-eckert at t-online.de
<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> , <josef-eckert at t-online.de
<mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> > wrote:
  Michael,
  I do not believe that, as I know several 100/6s which kept the original
  rimless cap. I still have about a douzent painted rocker covers (valve
  covers) with both styles, half of each. The caps were not available
  aftermarket for many years.
  Josef
   
   
   
  -----Original-Nachricht-----
  Betreff: Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
  Datum: 2023-06-26T22:43:14+0200
  Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com
  <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
  An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> " <
  josef-eckert at t-online.de <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> >
   
   
   
  As far as I can determine from the responses that I have received the
  "rimmed" style of cap was most likely the only type that was available
  during the production period. 
  It seems fairly certain that the other "rimless" style only became
  available in later years.
   
  M

  On Mon., Jun. 26, 2023, 4:11 p.m. josef-eckert at t-online.de
  <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> , <josef-eckert at t-online.de
  <mailto:josef-eckert at t-online.de> > wrote:
    That leaves the question open: When was the change from the early
    version to the rimmed cap?
    My 62 BT7 already had the rimmed version. I know earlier 100/6s had the
    other cap.
    Josef Eckert
    Germany
     
     
     
     
    -----Original-Nachricht-----
    Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
    Datum: 2023-06-26T15:41:16+0200
    Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com
    <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
    An: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> " <
    healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
     
     
     
    Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my oil cap question.
    
    It seems that the original type, with only 1 exception, is the "rimmed"
    cap.
    We will be updating the Concours Guidelines appropriately.
     
    M

    On Sat., Jun. 24, 2023, 5:43 p.m. Michael Salter, <
    michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
       
      I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8
      about oil filler caps.
      The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
      original.
      [image.png]
      However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen
      on 6 cylinder engines look like this.
      [image.png]
      with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
       
      Would appreciate anyone with a known original late BJ8 letting me
      know which type of cap is fitted to their car.
       
      Many thanks
      Michael Salter
      Concours Guidelines Editor.
       
       
       
  ?
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Jun 27 15:53:14 2023
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2023 14:53:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
In-Reply-To: <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCD03a0xqgw2vF8QvdPMMZMDun8Wuy9N5DeKHq9DxGEqog@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

When I acquired my car it did not have a proper oil filler cap. I purchased
the one in the picture from an Aftermarket supplier. I can confirm it is
not a BMC branded part.

Harold

On Tue, Jun 27, 2023 at 5:25?AM josef-eckert--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I am sure there are pictures in Healey books and brochures, road tests
> etc. of original engine bays. We are actually enjoying holidays in
> Scotland, so can't have a look from my side.
> Josef
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Gesendet mit der Telekom Mail App
> <https://kommunikationsdienste.t-online.de/redirects/email_app_android_sendmail_footer>
>
>
> --- Original-Nachricht ---
> *Von: *Michael Salter
> *Betreff: *Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
> *Datum: *27. Juni 2023, 12:57
> *An: *josef-eckert at t-online.de
>
>
> Thanks Josef,  I  will make some more enquiries about caps on original
> earlier 6 cylinder cars.
> Do you have any examples of known originals?
>
> M
>
> On Tue., Jun. 27, 2023, 2:14 a.m. josef-eckert at t-online.de, <
> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>>
>> I do not believe that, as I know several 100/6s which kept the original
>> rimless cap. I still have about a douzent painted rocker covers (valve
>> covers) with both styles, half of each. The caps were not available
>> aftermarket for many years.
>>
>> Josef
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>
>> Betreff: Re: Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>>
>> Datum: 2023-06-26T22:43:14+0200
>>
>> Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>
>> An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> As far as I can determine from the responses that I have received the
>> "rimmed" style of cap was most likely the only type that was available
>> during the production period.
>> It seems fairly certain that the other "rimless" style only became
>> available in later years.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon., Jun. 26, 2023, 4:11 p.m. josef-eckert at t-online.de, <
>> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
>>
>>> That leaves the question open: When was the change from the early
>>> version to the rimmed cap?
>>>
>>> My 62 BT7 already had the rimmed version. I know earlier 100/6s had the
>>> other cap.
>>>
>>> Josef Eckert
>>>
>>> Germany
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>>
>>> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Concours Question 6 cylinder Oil filler cap
>>>
>>> Datum: 2023-06-26T15:41:16+0200
>>>
>>> Von: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>>
>>> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my oil cap question.
>>> It seems that the original type, with only 1 exception, is the "rimmed"
>>> cap.
>>> We will be updating the Concours Guidelines appropriately.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sat., Jun. 24, 2023, 5:43 p.m. Michael Salter, <
>>> michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have been asked a question by a gentleman restoring a late BJ8 about
>>>> oil filler caps.
>>>> The cap on his car is of this type and he is fairly sure that it is
>>>> original.
>>>> [image: image.png]
>>>> However I am fairly sure that the only original caps that I have seen
>>>> on 6 cylinder engines look like this.
>>>> [image: image.png]
>>>> with the distinct "rim" around the edge.
>>>>
>>>> Would appreciate anyone with a *known original* late BJ8 letting me
>>>> know which type of cap is fitted to their car.
>>>>
>>>> Many thanks
>>>> Michael Salter
>>>> Concours Guidelines Editor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> ?
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From dmasucci at charter.net  Wed Jun 28 10:24:22 2023
From: dmasucci at charter.net (David Masucci)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2023 12:24:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7-BJ8 Windshield assembly
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCD03a0xqgw2vF8QvdPMMZMDun8Wuy9N5DeKHq9DxGEqog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAFP1XCD03a0xqgw2vF8QvdPMMZMDun8Wuy9N5DeKHq9DxGEqog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>

Hi all,

I am in the process of putting together my re-chromed BJ8 windshield assembly. I have a couple of questions, and I?m sure that some of you already know the answers. Can you guys take a look below and respond if you can?

1)	The Moss kit included 2 separate rubber parts for the glazing. Attached to the windshield in the picture below is a rubber part with a U-shaped cross section. Do I use adhesive to mount it to the glass?
2)	The other rubber item has a rectangular cross section, and is approximately the same length as the above part. 
My question for #2 is do I insert that into the U-channel in the windshield frame? I assume it too would be bonded with some kind of glazing compound. 
3) My last question pertains to assembly order. After staring at this for a while, I?ve concluded that I should assemble (loosely) the upper cross section to both side pieces, then insert glass from the bottom. Once fully seated I would then assemble the lower cross section to the 2 sides, and tighten it all up. 

Can you guys share any wisdom on the above?

Thanks,
Dave
BJ8









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From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 28 14:45:17 2023
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2023 20:45:17 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7-BJ8 Windshield assembly
In-Reply-To: <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAFP1XCD03a0xqgw2vF8QvdPMMZMDun8Wuy9N5DeKHq9DxGEqog@mail.gmail.com>
 <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>
Message-ID: <DB9PR01MB71956D41A5105E56A8B21C82D524A@DB9PR01MB7195.eurprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Hi David

Sorry to say one of the hardest jobs. It?s been a few years since I did it.
Not sure why the Moss kit is a 2 piece, it?s just normally the one U piece for the windscreen. And then you need the larger moulded section with flat and lip plus T section (all one piece) that?s slides (forced into with blunt chisel or flat screwdriver and soap ) into the bottom of the bottom chrome rail to join the windscreen to car body/ sits on shroud.

For the screen, You fit the u section around the glass and then have to squeeze the chrome rails on, the sides are the easiest.
Trust me it?s near impossible but I think on your side of the pond you call it dish soap is your friend. You don?t use any sealant, just dish soap to try and get the top and bottom rails lubricated and start to squeeze on . And the worst bit is the only way is to use ratchet type straps to squeeze the whole thing together properly, worried you will break the original glass. Squeezing is better than any tapping or hitting. I thing I also used a length of timber to even the pressure.
I believe there are a couple of different suppliers and one rubber may be easier than the other. I don?t think it?s any easier or the seals are a better fit but I may be wrong.
The other watch out is if you have had new internal L shaped corner brackets that fit inside the rails, the new ones holes don?t line up with the holes in the rails, and are a waste of money.

Good luck. Regards Andy


Sent from Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Masucci via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2023 5:24:22 PM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7-BJ8 Windshield assembly

Hi all,

I am in the process of putting together my re-chromed BJ8 windshield assembly. I have a couple of questions, and I?m sure that some of you already know the answers. Can you guys take a look below and respond if you can?

1) The Moss kit included 2 separate rubber parts for the glazing. Attached to the windshield in the picture below is a rubber part with a U-shaped cross section. Do I use adhesive to mount it to the glass?
2) The other rubber item has a rectangular cross section, and is approximately the same length as the above part.
My question for #2 is do I insert that into the U-channel in the windshield frame? I assume it too would be bonded with some kind of glazing compound.
3) My last question pertains to assembly order. After staring at this for a while, I?ve concluded that I should assemble (loosely) the upper cross section to both side pieces, then insert glass from the bottom. Once fully seated I would then assemble the lower cross section to the 2 sides, and tighten it all up.

Can you guys share any wisdom on the above?

Thanks,
Dave
BJ8

[cid:B11CC156-2B92-4AA8-B48D-D4A0B890C1AC]


[cid:7E07A498-D696-4369-8B48-D193F6E69B2C]

[cid:1AAC83AC-6E02-43AD-A83E-52936E1F4F08]
[cid:6D81523F-082B-4DDA-B54D-7AC5A45EBD34]

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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Wed Jun 28 19:05:33 2023
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2023 21:05:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7-BJ8 Windshield assembly
In-Reply-To: <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAFP1XCD03a0xqgw2vF8QvdPMMZMDun8Wuy9N5DeKHq9DxGEqog@mail.gmail.com>
 <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdgCkCLMEryaorBLfFEQ6zxkgzEMmh+8Y7r0tJ9XqkRi1w@mail.gmail.com>

The rectangular cross section pieces (about 5/16"x 1/8" thick) are packing
pieces that go on each side channel of the windshield so as to prevent the
glass from being positioned too far to any one side. Their ends are just
short of the corner brackets.
Elton

On Wed, Jun 28, 2023 at 3:33?PM David Masucci via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I am in the process of putting together my re-chromed BJ8 windshield
> assembly. I have a couple of questions, and I?m sure that some of you
> already know the answers. Can you guys take a look below and respond if you
> can?
>
> 1) The Moss kit included 2 separate rubber parts for the glazing.
> Attached to the windshield in the picture below is a rubber part with a U-shaped
> cross section. Do I use adhesive to mount it to the glass?
> 2) The other rubber item has a rectangular cross section, and is
> approximately the same length as the above part.
> My question for #2 is do I insert that into the U-channel in the
> windshield frame? I assume it too would be bonded with some kind of glazing
> compound.
> 3) My last question pertains to assembly order. After staring at this for
> a while, I?ve concluded that I should assemble (loosely) the upper cross
> section to both side pieces, then insert glass from the bottom. Once fully
> seated I would then assemble the lower cross section to the 2 sides, and
> tighten it all up.
>
> Can you guys share any wisdom on the above?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
> BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 28 22:58:59 2023
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2023 04:58:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7-BJ8 Windshield assembly
In-Reply-To: <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>
References: <CAB3i7LJ5NY3cCHaS0nPX+sZ2ezvp3Xm55yePKDFvB5QZVAuYXg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLWm1Pfy6DRe4=OKQdW15EtiLn7MQLSvtpUu14iBR5tGA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687810236168.2954837.9bc1f17d11e1dec7d1305f096eb9383b2961e25f@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7LLv90Aypgv0oQq-0gWyE12qrRu1ByVLYTvbzpDdrhbiAw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687846437550.334807.f1a18c0791821946a4d200563a175f0683790a4b@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAB3i7L+JwBf4Ld-8z4DtEouj5XCLsrPpEoPUdGaE=fg12kGL5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1687868128515.1525.55b1940ef26ce24d4fa78987473bb8d6cef65370@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAFP1XCD03a0xqgw2vF8QvdPMMZMDun8Wuy9N5DeKHq9DxGEqog@mail.gmail.com>
 <A7126869-C6F9-49F6-87A1-8CA7927049D5@charter.net>
Message-ID: <DS7PR11MB6078AD4FDC8CDE98748494BBD125A@DS7PR11MB6078.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

David,
The latest book by Roger Moment titled Tips on Maintenance, Repair and Restoration of the Austin-Healey 100, 100-SIX and 3000 shows you with step-by-step instructions and illustrations on how to do this job, it is on page 141 to 143.

Jean
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Masucci via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: June 28, 2023 4:24 PM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ7-BJ8 Windshield assembly

Hi all,

I am in the process of putting together my re-chromed BJ8 windshield assembly. I have a couple of questions, and I?m sure that some of you already know the answers. Can you guys take a look below and respond if you can?

1) The Moss kit included 2 separate rubber parts for the glazing. Attached to the windshield in the picture below is a rubber part with a U-shaped cross section. Do I use adhesive to mount it to the glass?
2) The other rubber item has a rectangular cross section, and is approximately the same length as the above part.
My question for #2 is do I insert that into the U-channel in the windshield frame? I assume it too would be bonded with some kind of glazing compound.
3) My last question pertains to assembly order. After staring at this for a while, I?ve concluded that I should assemble (loosely) the upper cross section to both side pieces, then insert glass from the bottom. Once fully seated I would then assemble the lower cross section to the 2 sides, and tighten it all up.

Can you guys share any wisdom on the above?

Thanks,
Dave
BJ8

[cid:B11CC156-2B92-4AA8-B48D-D4A0B890C1AC]


[cid:7E07A498-D696-4369-8B48-D193F6E69B2C]

[cid:1AAC83AC-6E02-43AD-A83E-52936E1F4F08]
[cid:6D81523F-082B-4DDA-B54D-7AC5A45EBD34]

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From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Jun 29 17:23:36 2023
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2023 16:23:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Main Seal
Message-ID: <CALPtYiNpM1DPO6Lce-+c8GtbcxvXKkGNW2pbGjR=K5oVwWq=AA@mail.gmail.com>

I would be interested to hear from those who have done this ...

My BJ8 has had the conversion done. The split lip seal was leaking after
some miles and years.
Now in the process of replacing it in situ.
All installed, but struggling with clipping the garter spring that goes
inside the lip seal together. Have both ends secured with twine, but still
lying on your back can't seem to get enough force on the flexible ends to
open up the tiny clip. Have ruined one spring trying to preassemble it and
slide it over the flange.
Any ideas or techniques appreciated.
rg
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