[Healeys] Heater query
Curtis Arndt
cnaarndt at gmail.com
Thu Jul 13 12:24:23 MDT 2023
Leonard
I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator from
ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British Pound
was at an all time low of $1.07 to £1.00, so the radiator delivered to
SoCal was just under $900 USD.
Compare the quality of the welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares
etc... let alone a price that is double what I paid. The welding from
others used looks like it was done by a HS shop student on Meth!
30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer service
and fast shipping [shipping alone was £147 and the price was still under
$900 USD delivered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain valve for a
proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them].
Their standard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that uses a BSPT thread
[tapered] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per original, see the three
attached photos.
Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Alloy
<https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-100-4-radiator>
Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy
<https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-3000-radiator>
Cheers,
Curt Arndt
Carlsbad, CA
'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)
[image: IMG_20230103_131233_050.jpg]
[image: IMG_20230103_130922_359.jpg]
[image: IMG_20230103_130815_341.jpg]
On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 7:59 AM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil
> coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored
> with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower
> is thicker, which made installation a little challenging. The radiator has
> been in for at least 15-20 years. I have driven under almost every
> condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and
> the engine temps stay where they should be. Strongly recommend this
> option, especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator
> from the stock original and it has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys <
> sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
>
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be
> boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored.
> I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
> to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I live in the sunny South (90° F and 90% relative humidity today) and I
> used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but I no
> longer have to use it that way since I had a modern core installed in the
> radiator and added a 190° sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC USA
>
>
>
>
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