[Healeys] Heater query
Robert Markovich
rmarkovich at aol.com
Wed Jul 12 06:32:51 MDT 2023
Agree. Especially without a shroud
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On Wednesday, July 12, 2023, 7:39 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
You would need a thermostatically controlled electric fan in modern traffic anyway. The original fan is fairly useless nowadays.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 12-7-2023 om 00:42 schreef Harold Manifold:
Bob,
As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.
Harold
On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.
Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:
Gary,
I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about 25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel heat.
Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be more expensive than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.
This website has a good overview: https://usradiator.com/cores
Harold
On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option. Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator? Gary H
On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
I live in the sunny South (90° F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but I no longer have to use it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190° sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC USA
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