[Healeys] Heater query

[Robert Markovich]

Certainly a good shop can recite the stock rad to better-than-new performance. What I did: Put the stock rad aside and bought a Wizard unit, which follows the original shape closely, sheds heat far better as it is alloy, cools better, and is made in upstate NY, rather than China. Cost:about $750 a couple of years ago. Truly a bolt-in affair. I also use an alloy head, performance water pump, Texas cooler fan (in red), and a Spaal auxiliary fan mounted in front of the radiator with a control switch for sitting in traffic or waiting to enter shows. The Wizard cools so well it required a 180-degree F thermostat for proper warmup on cooler spring and fall mornings—even with the block over bored. Wizard also supplied the electric aux fan. Can’t recommend them enough!


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On Tuesday, July 11, 2023, 12:30 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.  Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?Gary H
    On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
I live in the sunny South (90° F and 90% relativehumidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary enginecooler”; but I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern coreinstalled in the radiator and added a 190° sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.
 
  
 
Steve Byers
 
HBJ8L/36666
 
BJ8 Registry
 
AHCA Delegate at Large
 
Havelock, NC  USA
 
  
 


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