[Healeys] Overdrive disengages

[Tom]

I noticed my overdrive disengaging when I've run it for a while on a hot
day, so this discussion has been interesting.

Are we discussing two different adjustments, one on the overdrive unit
itself,  using the 3/16 drill bit method described by Norm Nock in his tech
tips book, and the other the switch controlled by the accelerator pedal?

I'm interested in the former right now, so if you could clarify the .040 or
1/32 you're measuring, that would help.

thanks!

Tom


On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 5:10 PM m.g.sharp--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Perhaps I am missing something, but 0.040” is not equivalent to 3/16”
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Hank
> Leach via Healeys
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:24 PM
> *To:* 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
>
>
>
> Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under
> the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light
> to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example
> in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment.
> Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no
> binding. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell"
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
>
> Hi John,
>
> What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash
> switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a
> parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the
> accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging
> the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the
> scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple
> adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll
> look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers.
> There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this
> switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a
> pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle
> stop plate and tighten the clamp.
>
> If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then
> your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are
> correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method
> is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring
> the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top
> of the O/D hydraulic section.
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing
> and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related
> to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>
>
>
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately
> instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the
> setting lever, I could not use a 3/16” dowel to line up the lever with the
> hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the
> OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the
> case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>
>
>
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do
> I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>
>
>
> Any other thoughts?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
> John Spaur
>
> ’62 BT7
>
>
>
>
>
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