[Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 16, Issue 157

Alan Wasserman alanwassermannc at gmail.com
Sun Jul 2 15:20:29 MDT 2023 

Is Healey Rick on our site?  If so, can we make contact.  Want to discuss some ideas re my ’66 BJ8 and respect your comments on BAT.  Let me know and thanks

> On Jul 2, 2023, at 2:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Overdrive disengages (John Spaur)
>   2. Fwd: Rear Main Seal (Roger Grace)
>   3. Re: Overdrive disengages (Bob Spidell)
>   4. steering box re-build (rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>)
>   5. Re: steering box re-build (Harold Manifold)
>   6. Re: Overdrive disengages (Hank Leach)
>   7. Re: steering box re-build (Hank Leach)
> 
> From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>>
> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> Date: July 1, 2023 at 2:55:13 PM EDT
> To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> Hi All,
>  
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>  
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16” dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>  
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>  
> Any other thoughts?
>  
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> ’62 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net>>
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Rear Main Seal
> Date: July 1, 2023 at 11:16:11 PM EDT
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> Update ... just for interest.
> So in the end gave up on ever clipping the 2 ends of the garter spring together with the engine and crank in situ.
> Made up a clip out of solid thin (0.03) brass (softer and easier to twist) wire. The twisted ends folded easily into the seal groove. Even this task lying on your back is not for the faint hearted !
> Have yet to run the engine to test the new seal - holding thumbs.
> rg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net>>
> Date: Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 4:23 PM
> Subject: Rear Main Seal
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> I would be interested to hear from those who have done this ...
> 
> My BJ8 has had the conversion done. The split lip seal was leaking after some miles and years. 
> Now in the process of replacing it in situ.
> All installed, but struggling with clipping the garter spring that goes inside the lip seal together. Have both ends secured with twine, but still lying on your back can't seem to get enough force on the flexible ends to open up the tiny clip. Have ruined one spring trying to preassemble it and slide it over the flange.
> Any ideas or techniques appreciated.
> rg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 10:43:57 AM EDT
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.
> 
> If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section. 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>  
>> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>>  
>> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16” dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>>  
>> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>>  
>> Any other thoughts?
>>  
>> TIA,
>> John Spaur
>> ’62 BT7
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> Subject: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 11:57:21 AM EDT
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Reply-To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> 
> 
> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
> 
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
> 
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
> 
> Carl
> 
> 
> 
> From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 12:14:24 PM EDT
> To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> 
> 
> Carl,
> 
> The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering box used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can rebuild the AH steering box.
> 
> Harold
> 
> On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06 AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
> 
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
> 
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
> 
> Carl
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> 
> 
> 
> From: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 1:24:21 PM EDT
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> Cc: "'healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>'" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Reply-To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> 
> 
> Bob's got the procedure.  Use a .040" feeler gauge (or 3/16 drill) under the throttle stop (1/5 of the throttle opening).  Connect a 12V test light to the fuse box and the top terminal on the throttle switch. (Good example in Haynes Manual page 124). Light should go out at this adjustment. Solenoid adjustment should be as Bob describes and work smoothly-no binding. Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Bob Spidell" 
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:20:10AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive disengages
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> What keeps the O/D from disengaging immediately when you open the dash switch is the 'throttle switch.' When the O/D is actuated there is a parallel circuit that will keep the O/D activated until you press the accelerator pedal, theoretically preventing reverse thrust from damaging the O/D. The parallel circuit runs through the throttle switch on the scuttle (firewall); it sounds like you need to adjust it. It's a simple adjustment using a certain diameter--I don't recall it offhand, but I'll look it up if you need it--drill bit under the throttle stop levers. There's a small shaft off the throttle mechanism that opens this switch--it's just a set of points and a cam inside--with a lever with a pinch clamp. Just loosen the pinch clamp, set the bit under the throttle stop plate and tighten the clamp.
> 
> If you O/D is actuating consistently within a couple seconds or so then your solenoid, operating lever, operating shaft and ball 'valve' are correct. The 'stick-a-drill-bit-through-the-lever-into-the-housing' method is notoriously unreliable; the proper setting is best achieved by measuring the lift--IIRC, it's 1/32" but not sure--of the operating shaft at the top of the O/D hydraulic section.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> On 7/1/2023 11:55 AM, John Spaur via Healeys wrote:
> Hi All,
>  
> My overdrive is functioning again after replacing the accumulator housing and piston but it is exhibiting an odd behavior which I believe is related to the adjustment of the setting lever.
>  
> When I open the toggle switch, the OD will sometimes disengage immediately instead of waiting until I blip the accelerator. When I adjusted the setting lever, I could not use a 3/16” dowel to line up the lever with the hole in the housing. I had to advance the lever clockwise a bit to get the OD to engage when the toggle switch was closed. This has always been the case and this issue is mentioned in some articles.
>  
> Do I need to fiddle with the setting lever adjustment some more? If so, do I rotate it clockwise or counter clockwise?
>  
> Any other thoughts?
>  
> TIA,
> John Spaur
> ’62 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> Date: July 2, 2023 at 1:29:00 PM EDT
> To: "'Harold Manifold'" <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net>>
> Cc: "'rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>'" <rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>>, "'healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>'" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Reply-To: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>>
> 
> 
> What do the components of the steering idler arms and tie rods look like?  Lots of play can be eliminated by adjustment or replacement of these parts. Steering box adjustment is limited at peg and if overly worn-replacement is necessary. The symptom sound more like steering rod/front end issues . Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Harold Manifold" 
> To: rubino at truespeed.ca <mailto:rubino at truespeed.ca>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>"
> Sent: Sunday July 2 2023 9:46:58AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] steering box re-build
> 
> Carl,
> 
> The steering box on our Austin-Healey is very similar to the steering box used on many highway and commercial trucks. I know that comment will not be a surprise to many. There are firms that specialize in rebuilding/remanufacturing steering gears for heavy equipment that can rebuild the AH steering box.
> 
> Harold
> 
> On Sun, Jul 2, 2023 at 9:06 AM carl and gerry rubino via Healeys < <>healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> I have adjusted the peg as far as it goes without locking up the wheels and I still have about 2 inch play. Doesn't bother me on twisty roads but on highways I am working it all the time.
> 
> Is there a re-build kit out there somewhere?
> 
> I have a BN-4, 1957.
> 
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/>  <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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Alan Wasserman
alanwassermannc at gmail.com
732-887-0742
www.wassermanstudio.com







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